Route Nouakchott - Kiffa - Gogui - Bamako

[Degvr56]

Anyone recent info on this route? We're riding 2 motorbikes (BMW Dakar and GSA), both on Heidenau K 60 Scouts.
Roadconditions, fuelstations (gas), customs at Gogui etc.

We're heading to BF, Togo ........, towards SA

Is military escort still obliged in Mali or can ze friendly ignore it because in the South there were no incidents the last year.

Tnx in advance.

[Mike K.]

Hello,

i read two days ago that threre is allready an escort from the Mauretanian border to Bamako.In Mauretania are a lot of checkpoints on the road.So take 30 fiche or copys of your passport than you can cross them faster.I went to Nema last time 2007.On this road sometimes you have to lock for fuel on the blackmarket.In the papers you will get at the Malian border for your motorbike you have to put at which border you are going to leave Mali.This seems to be new.

Mike

[Titbird]

Are you the 2 dutch riders I met in Dakhla yesterday? Anyway, the escort is still in place from Gogui, but I heard of people getting through without, or just to Diema. There is also 75 km of gnarly roadworks before Ayoun and as said, many roadblocks, but all friendy.

[Degvr56]

Hi Tony,

yes it's us. I replied on Saturday, but because of some sentences in Dutch the post has been removed.
We had a very smooth passing on the Moroccon/Mali border.
Wonderful scenery tnx to the Sunset all the way to Nouakchott.
Cannot imagine why so many travellers find this route boaring.
Still in Dakhla?

We are headint tomorrow for Bamako. We'll see how hard it is to enter Mali wityhout a military escort.

What are your plans? Driving straight to Belgium or .......?

[gvdaa]

Devgr56: So how did it end with the escort?

[Degvr56]

Arrived at friday at about 16.00 on the border. Checkout Mauretania very friendly, no problem at all.
On the Mali side: Police no problem, nice and friendly chat, just fill in the paper and they stamp your passport. Customs\Douane the same, no administration at the border. They were watching Alpine skiing
But than the Gendarmerie: took our passports and told us to pay 12.000 CFA for escort to Nioro, where they would give us back the documents.
Ambassador in Nouakchott assured us that an obliged escort is no longer obliged, because the situation is safe since last year.
Tried to be intimidating by threatening to send us back to Mauritania. They use this method often. No discussion possible, amount not negotiable. We refused to pay at the border. Only in town! They accepted finally. So don't get confused.
But again false information: they escorted us to the gendarmerie outside Nioro and handed the passports to a new "chef". Be aware: "chef" changes every day as well as the information.

Because it was dark we were not allowed to go in town. Hotel accommodation was not a option, because they could not garantee our "safety".
We slept outside the post on our Expeds and took their outside shelter and lounge.
Next morning we were escorted to Customs (other side of town) on our own bikes, by a youngster without any weapon (the rest was busy drinking the shade in front of the post).
Since the weekend price is 3 times the amount of a week day, we kindly rejected and use the gendarmerie post as a free camping place. Note: we also took our passports from the customofficer. Result: a confused and later on pissed gendarmerie. The whole time we were not offered food or drinks( not allowed to go to town) So take your food and drinks with you.
On Sunday we left the compound to do shopping. without asking for permission. Result: handing over the passports under svere threatening of deportation to Mauretania. We enjoyed every minute, but it was a relief to leave on Monday accompanied by another Frenchman, who also had problems because he dared to ask for a recu. Yelling, screaming and hitting the table hard.
Fee to Bamako and not Diema(one of the chefs wanted a ride to family in Bamako): 31.000 CFA for the car and 2 bikes.
5.000 CFA for police outside Nioro, obliged.

[gvdaa]

Thanks for the info. Once in Bamako you were free? Or again an escort to Burkina?

[Degvr56]

It ended 27 km before Bamako. Quite a chaos at the Custums-office, on the bike you can pass the line, but in a car you will have to que, if you can find it.

Update on gas: get your latest fuel for your bike in Kiffa. Untill Ayoun there is no gas and in Ayoun they will charge 2,5 times the normal price. Only 1 Total station with gas and they claim that the pump is empty, but they can sell you out of a jerrycan.
We had enough in our jerrycans, so gave them a big " stick it in your ass"

Malien hypocracy: there is no escort from south to north