I've started answering my own desk-bound questions. F_ck google, ask 100 strangers. Stop speculating, start riding.
So - sauntering Enfield slow, north from Cochin, searching for that perfect plot-up spot. Northern Kerala's beautiful but boxed-off, tourists corralled into low-impact, high-cost resorts. Lovely, surely, but 3000-6000 roops a night (50-80GBP) seems the drop-in rate for a cabin with carefully constructed barefoot chic. Elsewhere the beaches are inaccessible, blocked by houses, breakwaters or stern muslim women. No disrespect to the Prophet (may peace be upon him), but burkas and beaches are an awkward fit. The only exception I found was Muzzipilango, north of boozy union territory Mahe - a long, wide racetrack of a shore with a cheap hotel, The Pavillion, offering rooms for 700roops, but it had the smell of heavy drugs and light fingers so I kept on riding into Karnataka.
Which was A Good Thing because I found this place. Or had it found for me. Turtle Bay Resort, 10kms north of Kundapur. Cute cabins, quiet clean beach, tasty restaurant, welcoming staff. Spicy fish curries, cold
s, and decent rates. Worth a lazy week of anyone's precious time. If you're after sunset chillums and hippie dramas, keep heading for Gokarna. But if you're after a little piece of peace, some swimming, maybe a little yoga, then this could be your place in the sun.
Que el cielo exista, aunque mi lugar sea el infierno...