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West and South Asia From Turkey to Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Ladakh and Bangladesh
Photo by Daniel Rintz, Himba children, Namibia

The only impossible journey
is the one
you never begin

Photo by Daniel Rintz,
Himba children, Namibia



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  #1  
Old 5 Apr 2002
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KKH

Hi,
I believe the KKH was closed to travellers last year due to the bombing of Afghanisatan. Anybody any ideas where you can find out whether it will be open this year ?
Kirsten

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  #2  
Old 7 Apr 2002
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Hi,

hmmmm, not so nice to hear since I am planning to be on it next october... I'll ask around a bit.

Maarten


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  #3  
Old 26 Apr 2002
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i plan to go there too
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  #4  
Old 21 May 2002
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The KKH is open now. Regarding motoring info, there is an Italian, Stefano, who is posting trip reports on this website. In a day or two he will leave Kashgar and motor to Islamabad via the KKH. You might want to check out his reports for up to date info.
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  #5  
Old 31 May 2002
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Here is a copy of my post on teh Advisory & Safety board:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb...ML/000109.html

Even with a knackered shock absorber it was still spectacular, although I did come across a little tension.
If anyone else is thinking of going, I would advise sticking to the main KKH and do not stop in Chilas. That place is definately not westerner-friendly. Other than that I experienced only the usual Pak hospitality.

The police said that Chilas is known for it and that Hunza, further up the KKH was fine, but unfortunately I missed it, having to limp back to Lahore to pick up my new shock.

I did manage to cut across to the Swat valley on the way back down, via the Shangla pass from Besham. The police advised against travelling further up the Swat valley but the pass was fine and there is a friendly police post at the top. Mingoara was also friendly.

Graham.

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  #6  
Old 26 Jun 2002
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Thanks for all the info. After much indecision Chris and I have decided to fly our bikes to Thailand instead. However, did find out a number to check on KKH status - and thought I'd pass it on. Its a number in Pakistan (00 92 51) 921 2760 or 920 2766.

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  #7  
Old 5 May 2009
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KKH info please!

Has anyone recently done the KKH from Pakistan into China and onto the Stans? I am planning to do it at the end of June, 2009. Any info would be greatly appreciated re. security, border crossings, places to stay/avoid etc.

cheers,

Jez
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  #8  
Old 5 May 2009
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I did the KKH in Sept-Oct 2007, if that helps? Let me know if it does and I'll write more.
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  #9  
Old 11 May 2009
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I did it in October 2008, coming from China. No problem, good weather (beginning of October). But 3 weeks later, it was apparently snowed-in.

Accomodation in Pakistan is dead-easy. Lots of guesthouses everywhere, including Sost.
Between Sost and Tashkorgan, I didn't see any accomodation, but plenty of spots for camping in Pakistan (get a good sleeping bag though . And with good spots I mean: places where the bike/tent will be out of sight.
About 50km after Sost (going towards China), there's 2 checkpoints for the Khunjerab National Park. I'm sure they'll be more than happy for you to stay with them. I found Pakistan to be extremely friendly & accomodating. A guest is considered a "gift of allah" as in most muslim countries. Personally, I'd stay away from border-areas with Afghanistan though. But the Pakistani police won't let you go into dodgy areas anyway as they're usually concerned about your safety.

From Khunjerab Pass it's about 3-4h to Tashkorgan (China) I'd say. The KKH in China is a real blast - one of the best roads I've ever seen, smooth tarmac with not a single pothole. Accomodation in Tashkorgan is easy.
Tashkorgan to Kashgar: 1 day of riding, maybe 5-6h. Accomodation in Kashgar: Quiny Bagh Hotel (the old British Embassy), a well-known meeting-point for overland travellers.

Stans: Try to get as many visas as possible before you leave! Kyrgyzstan is the easiest, Tajikistan was easy too but it may change. Uzbekistan = usually OK , Turkmenistan Transit visa: pain in the neck. (Turkmenistan Embassies in Germany and UK are a nightmare, the one in Vienna is very friendly but 'temperamental'.)
Turkmenistyan Visa in Tashkent (Uzbekistan): can take a while (1 week maybe) but should be OK from what I heard from other travellers. Remember: for a Turkmenistan Transit visa you first need a visa for Uzbekistan AND Iran before you can apply for the Transit visa. (Bummer... it's always been my dream to become an illegal immigrant in Turkmenistan
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  #10  
Old 12 May 2009
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I rode the KKH last summer aswell a lil before Bjorn. It's fantastic and all the trouble in Pakistan is over on the other side of the Shandur pass...chitral side of the NWFP. People are wlecoming and it's amazing. It really is my favourite place i have been in the world.

The road was not closed at any point last year due to the bombing off Afghanistan...it's not near the trouble. This is false information. This isn't your worry on the KKH.

It's amazing and i reccomend it highly. Chilas is nothing to be worried about, it's much lower down and most people just pass through it anyway; the feeling as the other travellers have said just isn't that welcoming and a couple kids seem to throw stones, i just wouldn't bother staying there; nbothing much to see anyway. A really nice detour on the way down to Islamabad is the road to Muree which is GORGROUS. +Murree is worth a visit for an overnight. Karimabad is a FANTASTIC place to chill out and stay for a few days. It's super cheap, has fastish internet but still has a nice high mountain feel and there are some incredible walks.
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