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West and South Asia From Turkey to Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Ladakh and Bangladesh
Photo by Ellen Delis, Lagunas Ojos del Campo, Antofalla, Catamarca

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Ellen Delis,
Lagunas Ojos del Campo,
Antofalla, Catamarca



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  #1  
Old 30 Dec 2008
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Vietnam

Inspired by Top gear I’m thinking about heading out to Ho Chi Minh City this summer and renting/buying an old 110cc/125cc, riding north until hitting Ha Noi and then finishing in Ha Long. I have been riding almost a year and am wondering about the dos and don’ts of Vietnam.

I understand:
  • How to rent a motorcycle (ish)
  • That the traffic is dangerous in the cities and out in the countryside
  • There are a few ATMs in the cities, and you can get a map of these
  • That I am going in the tropical cyclone/busy season

I would like to know:
H
  • ow much cash I should carry on me. Dong and Dollar.
  • How likely I am to be pestered about documents by the law
  • How do I get motorcycle insurance for ma ten day trip in Vietnam?
  • Can I really rent a bike anywhere?

Oh and any good places to stay the night, or even buy a motorcycle.


Thanks for the help.
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  #2  
Old 31 Dec 2008
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I tried to do this same journey in April this year Tommy, as part of my overall plan to ride from Ho Chi Minh city to Rome.

Whilst renting a bike in Ho Chi Minh city is easy and cheap, the renters will not let you take the bike out of the city itself and one-way rentals are an absolute no-no. I spent 3 days stuffing around trying to rent/buy a bike before gving up on the idea, taking a sleeper bus to Hanoi, crossing into China and buying a new Chinese 125cc on the border.

The best I could do whilst in Vietnam was rent a bike for the day (rentals are cheap - only cost me $5 for the day) and ride down to Vung Tau and back (I lied to the owner about where I intended to ride it but he was a bit suspicious about why I had added so many kms to the odo when I returned it!).

The other thing you need to consider is that the renters demand to keep your passport as security for the bike.

As far as buying a bike goes you will pay a premium as a non-local and will struggle to sell it at the other end. Don't consider buying a used bike though - the only used bikes around are old and dangerous as owners do not bother to maintain them and simply throw them away when they are totally worn out.

You can probably buy a new 125 for $1,000 - $1,500 but be prepared to lose at least half that when you sell at the other end.

Garry from Oz.
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  #3  
Old 31 Dec 2008
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Hi Tommy,

Upfront disclaimer: I used to work for the same motorcycle tour operator that provided the Minsks used by Top Gear. The company is Explore Indochina - motorcycle tours & motorbike adventures in Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia. , and the only reason I don't work there any more is that I've moved to another country. But this is independent advice from someone who rode in VN for seven years, not a plug for the business.

To be honest, the two routes you want to take, from HCM City to Hanoi and from Hanoi to Ha Long, are the two worst rides in the entire country, in terms of traffic, risk, scenery and pretty much everything else. Highway 1 is built up for almost its entire length and is rarely wider than one or two lanes! Also, as Farqhuar says, it is difficult to rent a motorcycle in HCM City for an extended journey.

It was once possible to rent a Minsk motorbike from Cuong in Hanoi and ride it to HCM City, where his brother would collect it and send it back on the train. Cuong no longer rents out Minsks to independent riders, and only works with Explore Indochina these days.

It could be possible to buy a second-hand Minsk in Hanoi from an expat, tourist or one of the rental shops but you will need a mechanic to look over it before you head out. Minsks used to be ubiquitous in the north, but be aware that few mechanics know the bikes these days or carry spares. You may be able to find second-hand bikes for sale here: Classifieds | The New Hanoian

If you want to ride in Vietnam, I suggest you look into the north, where all of the big mountains, windy roads and hill tribes can be found. Have a look at Minsks - a set on Flickr for some of my photos of the bikes and the scenery up north. There are some good suggested rides and info/propaganda about Minsks at http://www.minskclubvietnam.com

You are unlikely to be stopped by traffic police at all, as a foreigner, unless you are involved in an accident. You can now find ATMs in some of the bigger northern towns, such as Lao Cai, Lang Son, Cao Bang and Ha Giang. You need to carry your passport at all times, and you can only stay in hotels or established homestays (no camping or staying in local homes). You also need permits and a local guide in some areas, including the Sapa valley.
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  #4  
Old 31 Dec 2008
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ok cool, a lot of good advice there. i was thinking of doing the north instead and those pics look great.

so i should be ok to rent in hanoi and tour around the mountains for a few days?

and what about all the other makes of motorcycle, are they less precious about hondas or jinluns?

Thanks for the help.
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  #5  
Old 7 Jan 2009
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If you are interested in staying with local families or expats living in Vietnam then check out CouchSurfing - Participate in Creating a Better World, One Couch At A Time its basically a network of like minded travelers around the world to host and be hosted in native countries,etc. Enjoy and please report back as I am planning to tour Vietnam in the near future and love to hear how it went.

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  #6  
Old 7 Jan 2009
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ok so a little update for anyone wanting to go the vietnam....

My original plan was to rent in HCMC and drive north to Hanoi, although I was advised this isnt a very friendly ride and aquiring a motorcycle would be hard. So I chose to do the five to six day north west loop around the mountains.

I spoke to Mr Cuong and he is more than happy to rent me a Minsk, as long as I give him ten days notice, and maybe even a guide out of Hanoi. As far as for guides and permits around the Sapa valley, I have a Lonely Planet and it says nothing about this.

The one thing I have come to realise is that this isnt a 'cake walk', but a good challenge for a first timer of sorts. Bearing in mind I have ridden the peaks many times and have off road experience, I should be well prepared for the trip in hand.

Still cant belive im actually going to Vietnam in seven months. Sweeeeeet

Let me kno if u want more info from my Lonely Planet.
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Old 8 Jan 2009
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Contacting Mr Cuong!?!

Hi there,

I am also planning to do a motorbike trip in the northwest on a minsk preferably. I would like to speak to Mr Cuong but seem to be having trouble finding contact info for him.

Do you have his contact details?

Cheers, Scott.
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  #8  
Old 8 Jan 2009
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of course:

cuongminsk {AATT} yahoo {DO*TT} com

he and his staff are very friendly and speak great english. he needs 7-10 days notice. check this out

Sapa (Northwest Vietnam Loop) - 1. Introduction

Last edited by Chris in Tokyo; 14 Jan 2009 at 03:57. Reason: Please don't put unedited email addresses in posts. It attracts spam to that person.
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  #9  
Old 8 Jan 2009
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Just curious why you think Lonely Planet would have more accurate/up-to-date info that this forum? Sure, it would be good to get confirmation that you would need a guide up there, but just sayin'...
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  #10  
Old 8 Jan 2009
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Vietnam guide

I spent two months travelling the length of Vietnam by Minsk and Honda scooter. One of the guides in Sapa has six or seven Minsks he rents out.

His name is Thanh and he works with his brother in law at Cuong Huong Ltd in Sapa
Try him on his e mail thanhhoakhanh {AA*TT} yahoo {*DOTT*} com
I was there for the last Chinese new year and had a brilliant time.

Last edited by Chris in Tokyo; 14 Jan 2009 at 03:58. Reason: Please don't put unedited email addresses in posts. It attracts spam to that person.
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  #11  
Old 8 Jan 2009
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lonely planet happens to be in a book that i can read now, and find anything i want. the forums take time to surf and the information is usually repetative. although the info on here is valuable (glennoi in particular)
still unclear as to whether or not you need a guide in sapa, old adventurer maybe you can clear this up for me? either way details about the guy who rents out there.

edit: ok i read it wrong, you need a guide to explore sapa valley (as the native hill tribes would not like you bumbling through) that makes sense.

Last edited by tommysmithfromleeds; 8 Jan 2009 at 22:29. Reason: tired...need sleep
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  #12  
Old 8 Jan 2009
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Awesome!

Cheers for the info, very insiprational, cant wait to get there and get riding!

Happy riding, and may the wind always be at your back
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  #13  
Old 8 Jan 2009
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cheers mate!

...just dont go nicking all them lovely minsks!
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  #14  
Old 9 Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommysmithfromleeds View Post
still unclear as to whether or not you need a guide in sapa, old adventurer maybe you can clear this up for me? either way details about the guy who rents out there.

edit: ok i read it wrong, you need a guide to explore sapa valley (as the native hill tribes would not like you bumbling through) that makes sense.
You don't need a guide in Sapa, there is nothing stopping you travelling where you like - and I did - but a guide can take you to the places you will never find on your own, so many roads, so little time as the saying goes. For us, what is a small amount of money for a guide goes a long way to helping out the local economy though.

Happy travelling, Vietnam is stunning, I have many happy memories of staying with the local people
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  #15  
Old 14 Jan 2009
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minsks Hanoi

Hi Tommy , Cuong is a cool guy, he has the best kept minsks in North Vietnam, he supplies all the bikes for exploreindochina.com If you can get cuong to introduce you to Digby from exploreindochina.com well worth meeting as he has been riding the mighty minsk in North Vietnam for a decade. I would bring my own helmet if I were you , as the ones in country can be crap. Keep your eyes open on the road and this could be the trip of a lifetime, good luck.
Mr. Paul.
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