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West and South Asia From Turkey to Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Ladakh and Bangladesh
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The only impossible journey
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Photo by Daniel Rintz,
Himba children, Namibia



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  #1  
Old 12 Jul 2008
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Kashmir safety

Hi

I am on my way to Leh. My intention is to continue on to Kargil and Srinagar, and back to Dehli.

I get the impression that Kashmir remains relatively safe, so long as you "mind your own business".

I'd appreciate any opinions on the level of security.

Thanks, Tim
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  #2  
Old 12 Jul 2008
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You'll be safe, as a foreigner, especially so.

A couple of friends recently completed that route (3 days ago). Things have cooled down a bit though the issue which had sparked the agitation is still unresolved.
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  #3  
Old 12 Jul 2008
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Hello Tim,

How much riding time is involved in riding this route? I keep looking at it each year and will find myself in Delhi on business in August.

I stayed on a house boat on Dal Lake a few years back during winter. Absolutely fantastic place to visit and one I must go back to one day.

Happy riding.

Matt
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  #4  
Old 13 Jul 2008
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Thanks for the feedback.

I'm getting conflicting views. Today I stopped to chat to a guy who was also heading north on an Enfield. He happened to be an officer in the Indian Army, and he said the Army has recently (a few days ago) closed the road from Kargil due to an outbreak of troubles near Srinagar. I guess I'll ask the army when I get to Leh.
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  #5  
Old 13 Jul 2008
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The army would not be such a good source of info as they are primarily responsible for your well being there - it is in their interests to tell you that it is "too dangerous", if they are inclined to share any information with you.

You'll get far more accurate information if you ask any bus/transport/tourist taxi operator on the Keh Kargil Srinagar route. Their information is likely to be very accurate and up to date, as their livelihoods depend on it. It's the same all over India - use truck/bus traffic as a barometer of safety. Fuel pumps are another source of very accurate information 200 km in any direction.

The info I have given in the previous posts regarding my friends is too old to be of much use to you - one week is a long time.
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  #6  
Old 13 Jul 2008
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Kashmir safety

We travelled through this region in 2006 with no problems. When trying to find out about the security situation, we were advised to look into the regular bus service that runs from Delhi to Kasnmir....

Apparently when the situation worsens the bus stops running! Worked for us!
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  #7  
Old 13 Jul 2008
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We have travelled this route last year (August) by bike. It was safe, but we were stopped many times on posts. Just for checking passports.
I have never seen so many soldiers in my life...
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  #8  
Old 14 Jul 2008
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Thanks for the feedback. I will check with the bus companies.

Good point re one week old news being outof date !
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  #9  
Old 14 Jul 2008
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Easy: if the top brass think foreigners might be in danger you will not be permitted to proceed there. The greatest danger by far is the road traffic, but in Ladakh and Kashmir it's not as bad as in the plains. However, you will find traffic absolutely diabolical on the Jammu-Srinagar road. Don't miss Lahaul and Spiti and if you have time Zanskar. Note that for Spiti you need a permit from Rekong Peo.
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  #10  
Old 16 Jul 2008
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Hi there!

I'm in Delhi now. I made two weeks ago the whole road Sri-Nagar - Leh l Manali. And this last part is one of the nicest roads i've ever made. But when i was in Sri-Nagar, we were trapped in a house boat in the Middle of Dal Lake. From the place we stayed in, we could hear the bombings and the prayers through the speakers. Some friends of mine and myself had to escape running with the bikes avoiding people with sticks and stones. I'm no kidding. It was'nt fun.

I've heard that now the situation it's ok, but so was when we arrived there. My suggestion: check the situation the day before but don't ask to locals. You cannot trust Kashmiris.

That's what i learned from been at their home 4 days. They are two faced and you'll never know which one is the true. And it's a pity because Kashmir is a fantastic land.

Good luck to anyone who is going there.
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