Zahedan to Quetta - farce at it's best

[Old Adventurer]

The police knocked at our guesthouse door in Bam, Iran and there began our frustrations!
We were given numerous escorts to the border at Zahedan, the last 3 of which did not have either, gun, catapult, stick or transport. They jumped on the rear seat luggage of the least loaded bike and expected to be taken that way. When we cossed into Pakistan on 8 Sept the guard said he would ride 68klms on the luggage. We decided otherwise and when he went into the office to say he was going, we beat a hasty retreat.
We rode from Taftan to Dalbandin along a badly erroded road with a sand storm blowing. When we arrived in Dalbandin the police were politely not amused and insisted we do not leave the hotel at all. The next day they rode with us to Quetta. We have had escorts for the last 3 days, they had us riding 13hours yesterday from Jacobabad to Multan with an enormous detour almost to Fort Munro before we shut engines off and refused to budge. D.G. Khan is a closed area they wouldn't let us stay there, they insisted we go to Multan.
Some escorts ride fast some incredibly slowly, they are always in front and won't let us pass. We had to follow one black police car with no rear lights late at night. One would almost think Pakistan wanted to put overland tourists off!
Apart from the hassle of the armed guards, no problems at all in Iran or at the border.
Adventure.gs - The very best experience in motorcycling training and touring. has the full story

[CornishDaddy]

Hey there Old Adventurer - get up North in Pakistan, the people, police and army included, could not be more friendly. We are in Skardu at the moment, and the whole KKH is amazing ...

[Old Adventurer]

We are on our way! Just doing an oil change here in Lahore then we will be up there asap. -

[harrybo1]

Hi there was wondering on completion of your trip how you was transporting bikes home? am in the planning stages of uk to india trip myself an looking to either ship or fly bikes home, good luck with the rest of your journey.

[Old Adventurer]

Originally Posted by harrybo1

Hi there was wondering on completion of your trip how you was transporting bikes home? am in the planning stages of uk to india trip myself an looking to either ship or fly bikes home, good luck with the rest of your journey.

er, um, well....... we were actually going to ride them back .... isn't that what old motorcyclists do? just don't ask yet what route!

[harrybo1]

exellent, wish i could do the same but my better half hasnt the same penchent for travel as myself, but good luck an ridesafe.

[mcgiggle]

We get to the Iran border in a couple of days and should hit Bam in about 3 weeks, reading your post has not exactly made my day but thanks for the info anyway.

Pete

[nico-la-vo]

We had a similar experience with escorts in Iran. They were all very young and eager to show off and prove who's boss. We found the Pakistani guys a lot more professional and mature though. The fact that they now accompany you the entire way means they are sure to become frustrating at some points. At one point in Multan, 10 police officers woke us in the middle of the night to try and get us to move hotels. The driving can be atrocious.

The important thing to keep in mind is that they are there for your benefit. Its true they can become annoying but they are just doing their job and it must be quite a drain of the resources of a poor country to escort pesky foreigners accross the land - even sleeping outside their hotel rooms in our case - and they dont ask for anything in return other than your patience and courtesy. So even when they drive like fools try to keep your heads as it is certainly not the case they want to put overlanders off. If they wanted to do that they would just save themselves all the trouble and close the route citing very legitimate security concerns.

[Old Adventurer]

Yes, I understand the safety situation and you are quite right, they could close the overland route. Patience by the bucketful is required.

Tonight in Lahore, Mick and myself have had the pleasure of spending some time with the guys who are trying to run - and welcome - bikers, no matter what they ride.
Special thanks to Mohammad and his friends at Pakistan Bikers Club, if anybody has any questions or needs to know anything specifically have a look at their website and contact them.

We have also had nothing but positive feedback from Dr Umerkhan - Omie on this site, who has been riding the KKH for the past 20+ years and is a mine of information. It was a pleasure to meet you and we both thank you.

Bikers are a wonderful class of people, Pakistan bikers especially so.
Thank to your all and good luck with your club.

[heavens angel]

harrybo1,

Just a word of warning concerning air freighting/shipping bike out of Pakistan or India. Don't leave the country before the bike is on the plane/ship.
I crated and signed the papers for my bike in Islamabad on 3rd July 09 and paid $6500 to air freight it to Seattle, USA on 17th July. I then proceeded to China by public transport where I bought a bike in Kashgar and rode across to Beijing, all the while checking up with the guys in Islamabad to ensure that they remeber to send the bike on the 17th of July to Seattle so that I could meet up with it on about the 20th of July.
I reached Seattle on the 21st only to be told there was a delay and the bike wouldn't arrive till the 24th. Then a few days later another delay till the 26th, then another , till the 30th of July, even then they would not be able to send it direct to Seattle, but air freight it to NY then send it across the States by road. At this point my hotel bill had reached $800. Finally on the 29th of July they said there was a further delay and that I would not be able to receive it for a further 8 days. At that point I told them NOT to send it to Seattle and that I was now going to return to my family in UK after a ruined trip. They never once offered an explanation despite repeated requests and blamed me for cancellation og the shipment.
I am still waiting to this date for the return of my bike back to Kuwait where I work, at my own expense, and then I will try to seek some kind of reimbursement.
Please ensure that the bikes have the necessary clearance (No Objection Certificate) by the shipping/airline and don't just take the agents word.

Wishing you well.

H A

[harrybo1]

H A many thanks for the advice thats the 1st time ive heard of no objection cert, ive since heard of company in nepal who appear to be ok,the visas seem to be a problem at the mo but we are quite away of yet,hope all your problems are sorted soon.thanks again for the advice.

[Old Adventurer]

the end of a dream ......

wiped out on the KKH last week. clear road in front, a guy coming towards us in his car on the other side of the road does a u turn, blocks the road, Mick hits the rear I hit the front. Compound fracture of the right arm for me, no proper medical attention, 4days later i am in London thanking the heavens for repatriation ins. It's going to be a long slog to get this arm ok.
Mick - thankfully uninjured is left to sort out shipping bikes back....

so easy.... neither of us stood a chance, ah - did I mention the joys of motorcycling? :confused1:

[Omie]

Sorry to hear about your accident Sue. I am glad you are safe and hopefully you will fully recover soon. This is the risk we all carry while enjoying our hobby.

If you remember I always talk about this 25kms stretch of road between Abbottabad and Mansehra which I dread driving even in my car. Although it is pretty and road quality is good still the enormous heavy traffic and driving of the local drivers makes it uncomfortable, putting it lightly. I load my bike in a bus and start driving from Mansehra. BTW your accident happened just a few kms from my summer home.

I wished you had called us after the accident. We might have been able to ease things for you. Even Abbottabad has a decent teaching hospital capable of giving good medical care.

Anyhow thanks for your company and kind words for the Pakistan Bikers Club and its members. Hope to see you soon in Pakistan to complete this journey. I will join you in my newly acquired rebuilt Kawasaki KE175.
Take care and keep us informed.

[Toukakoukan]

Originally Posted by Old Adventurer

the end of a dream ......

wiped out on the KKH last week. clear road in front, a guy coming towards us in his car on the other side of the road does a u turn, blocks the road, Mick hits the rear I hit the front. Compound fracture of the right arm for me, no proper medical attention, 4days later i am in London thanking the heavens for repatriation ins. It's going to be a long slog to get this arm ok.
Mick - thankfully uninjured is left to sort out shipping bikes back....

so easy.... neither of us stood a chance, ah - did I mention the joys of motorcycling? :confused1:

Christ, bad luck mate, I had the same thing happen to me, just in India instead.
Be glad you didn't get the arm fixed in Pakistan, I've been wrestling with a surgical infection for the last 9 months and the ****ing arm still hasn't healed!

[marky116]

Dear Sue,

We've just read your posting. Can't believe it happened. We've followed your journey for a while now and are following in your tracks. You've been an inspiration to us and we're gutted for you.

We're in a 4x4 with a big bumper - got the reg of the guy that got you?!

Take care of yourself. Hope things go ok for Mick.

Jo and Mark

Jo and Mark Overland