I just arrived in Quetta, after 3 days from Taftan.

Travelling in 4x4, I was not given an escort from Taftan, and managed a side-trip to Kharan, where they caught me, and told me I was the first tourist there... ever. The police were extremely friendly, but insisted on giving me 'security' to Nushki and onward. Luckily however, between Nushki and the Lak Pass, the escort suddenly stopped and waved me on. Happy days.

I'll be driving the route down through Sibi to Multan in a day or two, I'll then post some info. Sibi is in a slightly risky part of Baluchistan, as there are often feuds between local tribes. The UN guy who was kidnapped in Quetta in January has just been found in the area, so security could be tight...

Daniel

Just completed the Quetta to Sukkur leg.

From Quetta, the road winds over the long Bolan Pass, though the road trip is not half as interesting as the train journey. The road is good until Mach. From Mach the road quality varies between poor to good, on and off, but nothing too bad. No problem with any type of car / bike.

Once one gets to Dhadar, the road is perfect highway to Jacobobad. This passes through an area of feuding Baluchi tribes (the area around Mehrgarh archaeological site), though they are very friendly to foreigners. I got loads of great photos of Baluchi tribesmen with their guns...

From Jacobabad, the road turns to s*** until halfway between Shikarpur and Sukkur. This is honestly one of the most dangerous road stretches in Pakistan - the poor surface, masses of lorry traffic and crazy minibus drivers make this seriously dangerous. Be extremely careful on a bike. This short stretch is also preyed upon by bandits occasionally, but the traffic is so heavy, I can't really see them getting an oppurtunity to hold anyone up.

Once in Sukkur, you're on NH5, and can go south to Hyderabad / Karachi, or north to Multan / Lahore / Islamabad / Northern Pakistan.

Best wishes

Daniel, in Hyderabad.

Roads East of DG Khan
 

It was 2007, but I hope it helps.
I crossed Pakistan East to west. From the surroundings of Bahawalpur, south of which there´s a magificent desert fort and the mausoleums at Uch sharif http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1034/...bfa4e779_m.jpg , http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1198/...bb6423cf_m.jpg
I crossed the Indus at a bridge I can´t pinpoint on the map. It was a one lane long bridge managed by the Police. I skipped DG Khan but climbed a mountain port on unpaved roads (some had been paved a long time ago but most of what´s left´s just a reminder). From there to Loralai. There was petrol in some villages sold on cans or bottles.
A great, great ride all the way to Quetta.
DD

Just another tip regards changing money. There are no ATMs until Quetta (and none that accept western cards in Iran), so you'll need to change some money on the border. Do it on the Pakistani side. You can change dollars / sterling at the National Bank of Pakistan, but not Iranian Rials. Avoid the moneychangers at the border.

Instead, there are reliable, honest changers in Taftan town. Driving away from the border post (into Pakistan), you drive perhaps 500m straight, then turn right. (remember to drive on the RIGHT!!) Then there's another 500m or so before you turn right to customs or left onto the main highway. Take the last left turn before the road joins the main highway, and you'll find moneychangers hiding from the sun on the righ hand corner of the square (chowk). These guys give good rates, frist time, with no tricks (in my experience).

Thanks for everyone who has contributed in this thread - it's been a helpful read. My brother and I are currently on an overland trip from London to Sydney (Half Way Round) and are in Turkey at the moment about to head in to Iran.

Trying to find out what the security situation is like in Pakistan with all that's going on there at the moment. Daniel, your posts suggest that the central/southern areas are not overly risky, however we will be travelling up towards Islamabad and then on up the KKH in to China.

Does anybody have any recent experience of this route? We are genuinely concerned that as foreigners we may be a target in these areas (particularly in a 'stickered up' UK registered Subaru Forester).

Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated.

Hey, that's cool, how did you manage to get your vehicle in to China? I only went as far as the end of the KKH and back down again, a bit like going up a very long dead end street if you will.

Good on you doing the trip in a Subaru, that'll be fun in the rough stuff!!

Well we have to make it through Pakistan first before we get in to China!

We've used Chinese agency to organise everything for China (company called NAVO) - they do drivers lic, number plates, all the government permits etc and supply a guide.

The Forester has been pretty good so far - made it through the appalling mountain roads in Albania (at about 10km/h for hours on end). It's only been in low range once so far going up Nemrut Dagi in Turkey! :) Half Way Round » Going Up! (photo)

Hi

I'm normally a proponent of safe Pakistan, but things have flared up in Baluchistan recently. The restive Baluch (who have a highly popular separatist movement) are up in arms over the killing of three of their leaders by Pakistani intelligence. There have been seemingly random attacks, targeting non-Baluchi Pakistanis - Pashtuns, Punjabis, Urdu speakers. There have been killing in Quetta, and even on the road through Mach and Sibi which I took three weeks ago.

It's not clear if they're targeting foreigners as this is an internal problem, the hatred is directed towards 'other' Pakistanis who are seen to be taking the wealth etc. I would still come, but stay in police stations (most of the local police are Baluchis) and use the free-escort service once you get to Nushki on the road from Iran. I hate to say it, but it might be an idea to give Quetta a miss, and take the road from the Lak Pass (before Quetta) down to Karachi. It'a a diversion, but it goes through the safer (and emptier) Brahui areas (Kalat, Khuzdar) to the coast (much safer) and avoids the tribal areas around Sibi. Plus you can see Karachi and go up the interesting Indus Valley in Sindh

Alternatively, you could take the route through Loralai / DG Khan, though this goes through Quetta and is considered a little insecure by some (I've not driven this route yet).

I'll be in Quetta myself after two to three weeks to pick up some car parts (very cheap here - stock up), so if you're there, let me know. If you come down to Karachi, you can stay with us in Hyderabad on your way past if you want...

If you need any info on Iran, I may be able to help too.

Take care

Daniel

and what about the Karakorum Highway?
 

ciao Daniel,
I'm sorry to hear from you that the situation seems to be worsening in Pakistan. I'm sill planning my motorcycle trip for september 09 and I hope thinghs will get better after summer. Who knows?
By the way, let me ask you also regarding the KKH.
Is it still safe? thanks for your infos taking into account that my plan is not to run the whole KKR to china, but just the first hundreds km, just to "feel" this famous road.

many thanks
roberto

bomboliere, we are entering Pakistan tomorrow to drive up to the KKH and in to China. We will be travelling with some others from HU, to hopefully be safer in a group. I'll reply to this thread once we are in China and let you know how we get on.

Thanks again Daniel for your updates - your advice has been really appreciated.

Golfish,

If that is you Dave, we have been told there is only one place to stay in Taftan so if we miss you at the border crossing we will meet you on the other side at the sole hotel in town. Either way, give us a call on Simon's phone at about 2:00pm Iran time.

We will be leaving Bam at 7:00am sharp.

Up-to-date info on Pakistan much appreciated!
 

I'm traveling through Pakistan starting on ~5 May. Route is east-west and we're planning to do the KKH. Could anyone passing through in the next week or so let me know what the security situation is like?

Thanks!

Rob

One man caravan

From the look of it?
DAWN.COM | NWFP | Troops deployed along Karakoram Highway
BBC NEWS | World | South Asia | Disarray on Pakistan Taleban threat
Not so great...

I'm sure Dan will pop in with a confirmation/denial however, we all know how he loves the Indus valley and SWAT ;)

Just a note (this may be irrelevant now)...
It takes about 10 hours to get from Bam to Taftan.

Going east to west
 

Hi, my Iranian visa seems to have been finally sorted so I should be crossing to Lahore (from Amritsar) on 8th May (one month behind schedule :(). Anyway, at least I'm moving !

I'll be heading on what you'd call a southern route I guess (Lahore - Multan - Bahawalpur - Sukkar - Quetta - Dalbhandian - Taftan), so any updates always appreciated.

Cheers

Pete