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Photo by Ellen Delis, Lagunas Ojos del Campo, Antofalla, Catamarca

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Ellen Delis,
Lagunas Ojos del Campo,
Antofalla, Catamarca



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  • 1 Post By marksgone

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  #1  
Old 8 Aug 2013
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Questions about La Balsa, Ecuador/Peru border

Hey guys, currently in Vilcabamba and looking to cross into Peru at La Balsa. I found some good info but a bit dated. Was wondering if anyone had current info on times/distances/road conditions now? I know there was/is a lot of construction going on.

Was also wondering if I need to check the bike out of Ecuador, or just skip it like I did coming in from Colombia. Another, bigger potential problem I have is that the title of my bike is not in my name - a Bolivian plated bike I bought from another traveler in Colombia. I have a notarized Bill of Sale and a Power of Attorney, but I have heard that Peru will not accept a POA and Im not sure about the BOS. Apparently the aduana in Peru was manned by a pretty inept older guy, so Im not sure if thats good or bad....maybe have a few $ ready?....

Thanks for any advice!

-brecchi
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  #2  
Old 9 Aug 2013
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Location: Huanuco, Peru, SA
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How's your Spanish?

Only one question: "How's your Spanish?"

Really, Peru is not call "The Land of Miracles" for nothing! Go to a remote border crossing, be very friendly, take the aduana guy out to lunch and you are in Peru, signed sealed and delivered!

Anything you need to know about routes thru Peru, feel free to ask. I live in Huanuco, Peru and run 'Around the Block Moto Adventures', a moto tour company all over Peru and SA. Stop by. We'll put you up and work on your bike!

Cheers! Toby
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  #3  
Old 9 Aug 2013
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Hey there brecchi,
we hope to cross the boarder south of vilcabamba on the 17th or 18th and also looking for road condition report.
Whats you time frame?
Does anyone have any updated info on this one?
As for the challenges you face at the boarder I can't give you any help. My Spanish is passable and if you are on the same time frame......?
Cheers
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  #4  
Old 21 Aug 2013
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Toby, thanks for the advice! My experience was not too bad, the main thing being that I got through . I wish I was in your neck of the woods but I just got to Lima and Ill need some mechanical work done soon before heading over to Cuenca in 10 days or so. So if you know anyone good in Lima who might be able to help, it would be much appreciated!

Mark and Carlie, I hope I didnt reply too late. Here is what happened to me at the border...

So, after several wrong turns and some spectacular scenery, I made it to the border. It is indeed remote and lax. I checked out of the aduana which I probably didnt have to do, but the chatty guard let me go after inspecting everything. Migracion was a breeze, a quick stamp out. Then as Im about to cross the bridge into Peru, the aduana guy runs back out and brings me back to his office to wait for a phone call for more verification. He is very nice and talkative, but Im trying to get through Peru before dark. 20 minutes later Im free to go. He tells me to just duck under the gate with my bike to cross the bridge. There is a gate on the Peru side, and I ride up on the sidewalk to get around it. Nobody in a uniform is around for any of this, and nobody seems to care.

Peruvian side migracion was easy. A born again Christian, chatty guard sends me to the police office after filling out a form for a stamp, and I return for one in my passport. Then the aduana. The guy there is nice, but a bit clueless. I should mention also that my situation is unique - a Bolivian plated bike bought in Columbia by me, an American off of a Dutch couple! My bill of sale seemed to work OK even though my name is not on the title. There were some snags and holdups, and a couple of times I thought there would be a real problem, but almost 2 hours later (!) - I was the only person there - and I was through. Be careful and watch the guy, he messed up on my VIN number and would not give me more than 30 days, saying the computer had it fixed that way. The guy types with 2 fingers and seems to really make a lot of mistakes.

All that being said, my paperwork is complicated, and Im sure you guys will be through much quicker. It was pitch black by the time I got done and I headed 15 minutes away to Namballe to spend the night.

BTW...I was in Chugliachan and I heard about 2 Aussies who were working at the hostel in Insilivi, and that I should ride up and say hello. I was headed south, but I am sure this must be you guys, right? I know several people that stayed there and said it was the best place they had stayed at in Ecuador.

Anyway, I hope this helps anyone who is thinking about going this way - I highly recommend it.
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  #5  
Old 26 Aug 2013
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Hey Brecchi,
yea mate, that was us up in Isinlivi. 5 weeks volunteering in a fantastic location.

We ended up crossing back into Peru via Macara, just wasn't sure about the road south from Vilcabamba. Ended taking the long way around but rode one of the best roads east into the Andes from Olmos to Chachapoyas, highly recommended. Currently in Cajamarca after some more great roads, BUT, roadworks are currently making the process VERY time consuming. Held up for a day in Leimebamba and another 6 hours in Balsas. The road from Celedin is currently CRAP!!!! Road works, shitty detours, delays, crappy surfaces .... oh well. I think that in around 6 months the whole way will be tarmac, from coast to jungle.

Thinking now about the road south from Cajamarca. Any info on this section?
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  #6  
Old 26 Aug 2013
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Funny you should mention those roads - I was there about a week ago. I made it to Chachapoyas from Las Balsa and spent a few days there. Then to Karajia to see the cliff tombs ( huge disappointment) and to Kuelap, where I spent the night in a small town near the ruins. I got to Leymebamba in the afternoon but no traffic holdups, and spent the night at Balsas. I was told by the hotel owner that construction was happening, and was given different times of road closings. Because this kind of info is often wrong in SA, I decided to just leave really early, and made it to Cajamarca with no major waits, just some basic 5 minute waits and some interesting detours off the highway.

From Cajamarca to Huaraz was a real unintended adventure. I decided not to do a big "u" using the coast and instead decided to head south through the mountains. The road to Huamancucho was easy enough, and to Santiago de Chuco as well ( except for an unmarkedhighway turnoff). Then things got crazy. I was literally lost for a day and a half. The GPS was useless as well as the paper map, and the roads were really steep, rocky, etc. Also, everyone in whatever town I was in had almost no info on any neighboring town. A lot of winding up and down through really steep mountains and canyons just trying to get to the next town. I spent the night in a mining camp, and awoke to what I later found out was the Canon del Pato, which is stunning. I eventually made it to Caraz, and then pavement until Huaraz. In hindsight, I was in a hurry to get to Lima for work so I was stressing out a bit, but I am glad I had this little adventure.

I am currently in Moquegua, not too far from the Chile border. Im delivering a bike from Nazca to Santiago, and then back to Lima to continue with my trip. Maybe Ill see you guys along the way.
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  #7  
Old 6 Sep 2013
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dream ride

I´m ecuadorian, this has been an awaited ride, hope i can do it this year. How was the weather?
if someone faces north, visit us sierra-alisos.com
RG
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Old 10 Sep 2013
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Can't speak for other times of the year but we did the ride in the last week of August and the weather was sensational. Clear blue skies around 25-28 degrees, nice breezes but the nights were cold at altitude (we camp). Highly recommend the ride through this part of the Andes.
Currently in Huaraz and keeping to the sierra to Cusco.
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