Updated Libyan info
We crossed into Libya from Tunisia (Ras Jedir) on 15th May so here are the latest costs and myths about guides:
We have all been told that you need a guide to enter Libya - this is only true in the sense that you need an invite letter for visa. Our guide pitched up 6 hours late, so we did all border formalities on our own. Very easy even though we had no Arabic. Took a few hours, but the only costs are insurance (we gave 5 EUR and got 4 Lib Dinar change) and Arabic plates (110 Lib Dinar, which is about GBP 55). The registration of passports with police must be done within 4 days and is 15 Lib Dinar per person. The guide is necessary as there are police checks every 100 kms - we travelled the coastal road from Tunisia to Egypt. Final point - make sure you have a quote for costs on paper before arrving in Libya. We were with Robban Tours and despite asking each day for a price we were only given one on the afternoon before we were to leave. They asked for USD 1600 for 5 days for 2 people (for invitation letters, border fees, guide costs etc) - this despite the fact that we negotiated the border on our own! We managed to get it down to about USD 690, but it is a complete rip off. We paid for everything along the way, so the 690 is for guide plus invite letters. They should use the cash to clean the litter.....