Gilf Kebir & Jebel Uweinat - good news and bad news

[andrasz]

I have received information that the Egyptian Military have withdrawn all permissions (including those already issued) for the deep desert, in the fine traditions of the land without any explanation (and needless to say, without giving the money back...). The grapewine suggests that with the gold discoveries south of the border in Sudan, they do not want competition...

The good news is that for the present it is possible to visit Uweinat from the Sudanese side, we have recently returned from a remarkably hassle and problem free two week trip to the mountain with logistics arranged in Khartoum. I have started working on a trip account and will update it periodically as time permits.

The gold mining activities are located about 20-30 kilometres to the ESE of Uweinat, and for the time being it appears that the mountain itself is left in peace, we found it completely deserted both on the Northern and Southern sides. The (unverified) gossip picked up from Dongola truck drivers who still run the Kufra route is that there is no more Libyan presence at Ain Dua and Ain Ghazal, the border formalities are now completed at Kufra.

Like all other posters on the various threads, I have found Sudan to be incredibly refreshing and pleasant after the various North African experiences, returning for the first time since 1981. The Sudanese are extremely friendly and pleasant to work with. A remarkable aspect of the country is the almost total lack of hassles and harassment to which one had become accustomed and immune to in Egypt. One may walk about anywhere in peace, without being offered anything for sale, asked for any gift or baksheesh, or even being stared at.

[Aliprovidor]

Andrasz, I want to travel to the Sudan through Libya in Nov, Dec this year. Are you suggesting that it may be possible to go via Kufra?

I have been resigned to going Libya, Egypt, Sudan.

Travelling via Uweinat seems like a dream!

Are there places in northern Sudan, on the route to Khartoum, where petrol is available?

Thanks for your post.

Aliprovidor.

[andrasz]

Aliprovidor,

No, I'm definitely not suggesting that. Nobody really knows of the present conditions in the south east of Libya, and I have not heard of any foreigner being permitted to go and find out in the past year or so (not that there were too many volunteers). The last first hand info I have dates from nearly a year ago when somebody observed in Jalo a group of two dozen or so 'technicals' (Toyota pickups with a half inch MG mounted on the platform) heading south to persuade the quarreling tribes in Kufra to either stop killing each other, or if not then at least to do it quietly... Judging by the grim look on the faces of the usually cheerful lads manning them, they meant business. The info on no more Libyan post at Uweinat is plausible, but only underscores the situation. Then again, it could well be outdated or not true at all.

Assuming the unlikely event that you somehow manage to reach Kufra and are permitted further south, the route is ~1000 km of totally empty desert with long stretches of soft sand and no water or fuel along the way, impossible for anything but a well equipped 4wd - and even then it should be attempted only in tandem, provided you really know what you're doing.

I do not find it inconcievable though that if and when the dust does eventually settle in Libya (emphasis on IF), you might be permited to buy your way on a trading truck, which could most certainly carry you and your motorcycle (or you may ride along, the truck being the support vehicle with fuel & water). It would certainly be a nice and totally novel experience, I do know of people in Sudan who would be able to set this up (including the necessary paperwork so the welcome on the arrival end is not frosty), but I think we're years away from even contemplating this.

[Roman]

Hello Andras,

How do you get a truck into Sundan avoiding Eypt? Is shipping to Port Sudan or another harbour an option? Through Ethiopia? Someone once told me there are regular commercial flights between Addis ad Amsterdam, but it may be far fetched.

[andrasz]

I guess shipping to Port Sudan is your only option, there is no other port of entry to my knowedge. There are now regular cargo flights to Khartoum too (eg. Turkish Airlines flies in daily with an A330) but a truck would be too big to get on board, a smaller car or a motorbike could be flown in/out. I would assume that these flights mainly bring in cargo, Sudan has little to export that would sustain the cost of air freight, so possibly one could negotiate some better rates for flying a motorbike out than getting one in. It would be very pricey nevertheless.

[itchyfeet38]

Friends looked into shipping to Europe from Port Sudan last year and it was very expensive (several thousand euro). Possibly because it involves going via the Suez Canal.

The below is taken from a recent BBC article about the rising costs of freight using Suez (apparently tolls increased 3% in 2012 and are due for another 2-5% increase in May).

"A standard container ship bringing consumer goods on that route pays around $1 million in tolls for a return trip through the canal, representing around a quarter of costs for such a voyage".

Of course the alternative is a 10,000km detour ...

[andrasz]

Just picked up this bit of news dated 10th April:

"Fresh violence has broken out on the south-eastern town of Kufra, scene earlier last year of heavy communal fighting between its Zway and Tebu residents. Two people are reported to have been killed and a number of others wounded in three days of mortar firing and shooting."

Fresh violence flares in Kufra | Libya Herald

Apparently the dust had not quite settled yet...

[ursula]

hi
whats going on in Egypt with the permissions for the Western Desert, Gilf Kebir and Uweinat???

Is there no TO to comment this rumors ?

I was in Uweinat, egyptian side, 3 weeks ago and had no problems at all.
The border post at Uweinat controlled our permissions and that was it.

Ursula

[andrasz]

Hello Ursula,

Good to hear you're safely back, that is some good news. I received the info from a party who were prevented from going to the Gilf about five-six weeks ago. As we know in that fine land, the rules are totally unpredictable...

[andrasz]

Have finally completed the account of our March 2013 Expedition to Jebel Uweinat, Sudan

[achim-in-jordan]

Hi Andras,

This is a great trip report with equally great pictures! Thanks a lot for sharing!

Greetings,
Achim

[andrasz]

Seems like Oasis Circuit not an option anymore:

Egypt's Western Desert tours suspended till Oct 21 - ETAA - News - Aswat Masriya

Unclear how to read this statement: "Tours in the White Desert will resume on October 22, but staying overnight in camps or hotels will be prohibited"

[ursula]

I came just back from another great trip through the Western Desert.
No problems at all, in the Gilf Kebir region, Wadi Addax, where we had seen hunters before,
we met a single libyan pickup which preferred to disappear as fast as possible.
The checkpoints have been « upgraded » and everybody wears now bullet proof jackets.
On the oasis road we met twice armed patrols.
Best
Ursula

[Toyark]

It sounds like they are gearing up to ... welcome tourism? !!!
Good to hear that you are back in one piece Ursula- looking forward to your photos

[ursula]

thanks Bertrand !


Thats how the checkpoint near Farafra looked like last week