Extra Fuel Tanks...

[Baldrick]

Given that 'Gerry cans on the roofrack' aren't the most elegant solution to fuel storage, how do you go about plumbing in an auxilliary tank to vehicle?

Pumping diesel from one tank to another seems like a pain in the arse (unless your day job is flying Concorde), and mounting a second filler cap in the bodywork of a new Landrover seems a bit over the top.

There must be an easier way..........

Baldrick.

[A.B.]

If you’re making custom fuel tanks, as I sugested in my post in the Jerry can /roof thread ( http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb...ML/000531.html ), then you don’t need to modify your body work to install a fuel cap. Make the fuel cap as far back in the tank as possible near the rear cargo door so you’ll be able to access it and refill the tank only by opening the rear cargo doors. Keep a couple of old rags handy to wrap the fuel cap while refueling and insist on refueling yourself. Splashing fuel is a tradition in some African countries including my own.

Make the fuel tank output at the bottom of the tank, also towards the rear cargo door, and install a high quality tap with a lock mechanism and a hose attachment point. Keep the tap closed until you securely attach the hose.

If you need to install the tank deep in the cargo area away from the rear cargo door, you can use a remote filler and vent. But instead of modifying the bodywork, route the remote filler towards the rear cargo door or a window and fix it up high inside the door / window. To access it just open the door et voila.

If the bottom of the fuel tank is higher than the original tank fuel cap then gravity will take over when you open the aux tank tap. If not then install a small 12v fuel transfer pump. If you cannot find these any electric EFI pump will do but will be a bit slower as EFI pumps pulsate the fuel rather than continuously pump it.

The electrical connections are very simple, as it only needs a switch to turn the pump on and off and a relay to protect the switch and a fuse to protect the pump. I can post the diagram here if you want with components from Radio Shack.

If you feel adventures you can install a permanent connection between the aux tank and the stock one so you can transfer fuel from the driver seat with the flick of a switch.

Hope this helps.

------------------
A.B.

OasisPhoto.com – Images from the Magical Sahara.
ShortWheelbase.com – Jeep preparations.

[Chris Scott]

I agree with the simplicity of all the above but would say an exterior filler is always derirable with diesel: Egypt is certainly not the only place they like to put 101 litres in a 100 litre tank, and not every guy may like you handling his nozzle. If not a hole in the body or a twin inlet mouth behind the standard filler cap (Grand Erg make these) then you can cut a filler in a window replaced by plastic.

CS

[Baldrick]

Thanks Guys, the Twin Nozzle looks just the job:- I noticed in an old 110 owners manual somthing like "... for owners with twin tanks use selector switch to choose fuel source, gauge indicates contents of current tank..."

I presume such systems aren't available from the factory anymore, ( my dealer here is vague about just about everything) - would I need a second fuel pump to make such a system, or an electrically operated source switch, or is all of the above asking for trouble with a TDi engine?

Baldrick.

P.S. Fantastic photos A.B.

[A.B.]

An electrically operated selector would do. These will be available form auxiliary tanks manufacturers. You might want to get a complete kit from a reliable source. But these will be available for under car aux tanks only.

If you’re going to go for custom in cab tanks than Chris’s idea is best. Take off one of the rear windows and replace it with a plastic sheet (I prefer aluminum), drill and bolt the filler cap to it. It would be safer. In fact replace all the rear windows. It will also help keep the temp down inside the car if they’re painted a bright reflective color.

I’m glad you like the site. I would be greatful if leave me a note in the guest book .

------------------
A.B.

OasisPhoto.com – Images from the Magical Sahara.
ShortWheelbase.com – Jeep preparations.

[Sam Rutherford]

I have two aux tanks fitted inside wings, just behind side(front) doors on a 110 hard-top. System works great, gravity feed only, total of 180L available. The normal filler at rear is blocked off, and tanks fill from new filler just aft of drivers door (it was originally inside, behind drivers seat, but I got fed up with spilt diesel!). Comes back to your point about making holes in bodywork!

Sam.

[Roman]

Because most landcruiser models have dual tanks fitted as factory option, you may try adapting the filler neck for a landrover. They ware widely available in Oz and SA (in Europe from Paris4x4 and (?)Hans Daer). It has one hole feeding two hoses, hence no need to alter the bodywork for a second filler.

------------------
Roman (UK)
www.polandrover.com

[GWJ]

With my 110, I replaced the main 80 litre fuel tank with a "Out of town" long ranger fuel tank- 129 litres. Fits straight in, takes about 4 hours to change over. I then fitted a 45 litre mantec auxillary tank in the rear right quarter which takes a feed from the main fuel filler and drains into the main tank. Gives 165 litres, easy to fit, no extra filler holes have to be cut. Think may be Frog island stock out of town, not sure, I got mine in Aus. I'm sure there are other alternatives in the uk.

[Roman]

A solution where an auxilliary tank drains into the main tank is OK as long as the main tank is completely bullet-proof. Otherwise all your reserve fuel will drain into the ground. It may be more convenient than jerry cans but does not solve the problem how to safely transport additional fuel. IMHO both tanks should be separated via switching vales.

------------------
Roman (UK)
www.polandrover.com

[roamingyak]

I'm getting a custom made Ali tank. I've decided to allow for having it plumbed in seperatly as well asbeing able to manually hand pump it.

Does anybody have any experiences with switching valves for plumbing it in seperately?

My mate with a 101 bought one from europaspares.com and seems happy with it, but there must be others out there worthy of investigation?

Cheers, Darrin

[Roman]

Darrin,

The cheapest option - GBP 15.30+VAT: a manual valve from RS (www.rswww.com - part No 328-4885). The item from Europaspares seems to be a good piece of kit (Cat No FSV300, price GBP 66.00+VAT). Also Horizon Products (http://www.horizonproducts.co.uk) supply full flow 3W full flow valves (3/8 in BSP) (price similar to Europaspares, not available till Sep 2002). IanS mentioned earlier on this board a Woick valve from Germany.

Hope it helps.

------------------
Roman (UK)
www.polandrover.com

[roamingyak]

Thanks Roman,

A useful source of info as always! ;-)

I might go for the manual valve, mainly on cost (and because it looks like it would be hard to break, and I could carry a spare)

Would using a manual valve as opposed to the others cause more/less of the usual problems with plumbing in seperate tanks (ie: air locks etc)

Cheers, Darrin

[A.B.]

Some of these valves might not work if you want to draw fuel from the aux tank directly. There are 2 fuel lines running from the tank to the engine compartment. One sends fuel to the EFI and the other returns unused fuel to the tank. That’s how most of the EFI system work. The valve/switch should accommodate these 2 lines; otherwise it will return fuel to the main tank when you’re drawing from the aux tank.

------------------
A.B.

OasisPhoto.com – Images from the Magical Sahara.
ShortWheelbase.com – Jeep preparations.

[Roman]

A.B.,
That's not a problem at all - just use two valves, one in each fuel line. All Landcruisers have this.

------------------
Roman (UK)
www.polandrover.com

[mat]

Electic shut off valves are commonly used by LPGas insatllers to shut off petrol supply to carb engines. These valves are operated by 12V but also come with manual override incase they fail. Try HKL GASPOWER in Birmingham 01213596131, mail order available.