Hassle in the Rif, but great scenery
The Eastern Coast Rd is great - green hills to the sea, little villages & river beds up between the mountain spurs to park up in overnight.
BUT - if you drive through the Rif to get there it's incredible how much hassle you get - every single male is convinced that you have driven there just to buy hash from them! We had cars swerve in front of us trying to get us to stop so the driver could sell us hash, people waving madly as they overtake on blind corners on the mountain roads - I thought that sort of thing stopped in the 1970s... Happily we were in our Landy and we just didn't show any signs of stopping - the ones who pulled over in front got out of the way when they saw 3 tonnes of loaded car coming at them!
There are police checkpoints all the way, but they just waved us through, and after Ketama it got easier. (Ketama is, by the way, a town which looks just like a heavy smoker's bedsit, but expanded into an entire town - the place really could feature as an anti-drugs poster! I'm as happy to share a spliff as anyone, but this place really is depressing...
However, get past that and onto the mountains leading down to the coast and it's great. The coast road is a really good winding sealed route with great views, and the people on the coast are friendly and unused to tourists (see above for the explanation why most folk don't make it out there!)
Interestingly Lonely Planet says of Ketama "nowadays the dealers are more low-key" - don't know what they must have been like before!
It's probably a good idea to try to look a bit respectable up there, in an obviously tourist Landy we were waved through without stopping at the checkpoints, but on an overloaded bike towards the end of a month on the piste it might have led to lots of unpacking luggage...