Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Planning, Trip > Route Planning
Route Planning Where to go, when, what are the interesting places to see
Photo by Daniel Rintz, Himba children, Namibia

The only impossible journey
is the one
you never begin

Photo by Daniel Rintz,
Himba children, Namibia



Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 6 May 2011
Gold Member
New on the HUBB
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gosport
Posts: 10
Stans border crossings - advice needed

Hi all

I'm planning a trip from the Uk, through the Stans next year and wondered if anyone could give me some advice on where to cross.

the plan is to get a ferry across the Caspian Sea to Turkmenbashi then head up through Uzbekistan to Kazakhstan and onwards through Russia to Mongolia. However, I really want to take in the Aral Sea, before it's all gone, ans as such would like to cross from Turkmenistan into Uzbekistan as close as possible to this (we'll be on C90s so you can see why).

Any help, advice or suggestions will be gratefully received.

John Badger
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 6 May 2011
colebatch's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: London / Moscow
Posts: 1,913
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBadger View Post
Hi all

I'm planning a trip from the Uk, through the Stans next year and wondered if anyone could give me some advice on where to cross.

the plan is to get a ferry across the Caspian Sea to Turkmenbashi then head up through Uzbekistan to Kazakhstan and onwards through Russia to Mongolia. However, I really want to take in the Aral Sea, before it's all gone, ans as such would like to cross from Turkmenistan into Uzbekistan as close as possible to this (we'll be on C90s so you can see why).

Any help, advice or suggestions will be gratefully received.

John Badger
I would suggest a Turkmen visa isnt the easiest thing in the world to get.

You may want to consider getting the boat from Baku to Aktau (Shevchenko) instead and then riding through Beyneu, Akjigit and across into Uzbekistan there ... then see the ex Aral sea at Muynaq ... and the fishing boats sitting in the desert. But to the best of my knowledge there is no border crossing between Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan in the vicinity of the Aral Sea ... apart from the one near Beyneu.

For your guide, I have been several times to the former shores of the Aral Sea, but have never seen the sea. The current water body is a long way away now from any official roads.

I would suggest the easiest way to see it would be to see the deeper part of the lake where the shoreline is almost unchanged due to the steepness of the edge of the Ustyurt Plateau in Uzbekistan. Turn off the Beyneu - Kungrad road at Jasliq (Zhaslyk), head 50 km east for Komsomolsk na Ustyurte, then north to the edge of the Ustyurt Plateau and the sea. Once you turn off the main road at Jasliq, you will be completely on rarely travelled sandy tracks ... to say that bit would be a interesting challenge on C90s might be an understatement.

Also note, there is no fuel on the Beyneu - Kungrad road after the border, until you get to Kungrad - and even there you may have to hunt around for it. You *should* be able to find some in Muynaq by asking locals to sell you some. Depending on the range you guys have, you may want to go to Muynaq, max out on fuel and then head north east to the edge of the Ustyurt plateau and the sea. Openstreetmap.org (OSM) has a track marked on it (GPS trace) to the edge of the Aral Sea from Muynaq (spelt Moynoq on OSM) - but note that track looks well over 100 km long

Last edited by colebatch; 8 May 2011 at 13:41.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 6 May 2011
Gold Member
New on the HUBB
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gosport
Posts: 10
Turkmenistan visa

Can you not still get a five day transit visa for Turkmenistan?

What I would like to do is to cross into Uzbekistan from Turkmenistan as close to the ex-Aral sea as possible, spend a few days getting as close as possible, seeing the grounded boats would be a good aim I guess, then off back towards Tashkent.

Are the borders crossings near Tashkent open now as I heard they had closed?

John Badger
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 6 May 2011
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 994
One thing you should try and see in TM is the 'door to hell' burning gas crater at Dervaza. This involves a bit of sand bashing but that should be fine on a C90, and is accessed from the main road (main, not good or big!) from Ashgabat to the UZ border crossing near Nukus.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 6 May 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Derbyshire, England
Posts: 100
Turkmenistsan Visa

Quote:
Originally Posted by colebatch View Post
I would suggest a Turkmen visa isnt the easiest thing in the world to get.

You may want to consider getting the boat from Baku to Aktau (Shevchenko) instead and then riding through Beyneu, Akjigit and across into Uzbekistan there ... then see the ex Aral sea at Muynaq ... and the fishing boats sitting in the desert. But to the best of my knowledge there is no border crossing between Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan in the vicinity of the Aral Sea ... apart from the one near Beyneu.

For your guide, I have been several times to the former shores of the Aral Sea, but have never seen the sea. The current water body is a long way away now from any official roads.

I would suggest the easiest way to see it would be to see the deeper part of the lake where the shoreline is almost unchanged due to the steepness of the edge of the Ustyurt Plateau in Uzbekistan. Turn off the Beyneu - Kungrad road at Jasliq (Zhaslyk), head 50 km east for Komsomolsk na Ustyurte, then north to the edge of the Ustyurt Plateau and the sea. Once you turn off the main road at Jasliq, you will be completely on rarely travelled sandy tracks ... to say that bit would be a interesting challenge on C90s might be an understatement.

Also note, there is no fuel on the Beyneu - Kungrad road, before Kungrad. You *should* be able to find some in Muynaq. Depending on the range you guys have, you may want to go to Muynaq, max out on fuel and then head north east to the edge of the Ustyurt plateau and the sea. Openstreetmap.org (OSM) has a track marked on it (GPS trace) to the edge of the Aral Sea from Muynaq (spelt Moynoq on OSM).

Hope you don't mind me jumping in on this thread, I too was hoping to cross from Baku to Turkmenbasy next year and then continuing on through the 'stans. I gather from what you say it in difficult or impossible to get a Turkmenistan Visa?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 6 May 2011
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 994
Some people seem to have had trouble, mine was fine. I got a LOI from David at Stantours then went to the TM embassy in Ankara, got it the same day (after a few days of going to an empty embassy admittedly!)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 6 May 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Derbyshire, England
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by henryuk View Post
Some people seem to have had trouble, mine was fine. I got a LOI from David at Stantours then went to the TM embassy in Ankara, got it the same day (after a few days of going to an empty embassy admittedly!)
Just had a look at their website. Seems the way to go.

Ta
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 6 May 2011
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 994
You might have to have a guide with you for a tourist visa - if you do go down this route try to get Sasha (Alexander Alexandrovic), David knows him, he's a legend!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 6 May 2011
Gold Member
New on the HUBB
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gosport
Posts: 10
Turkmenistan visa

Is it not possible to get one in the UK prior to leaving?
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 6 May 2011
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 994
I got my other stans visas in the UK but I don't think TM have an embassy here?? It was a while ago but I must have had a reason to get mine in Turkey......
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 7 May 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: On the road ...
Posts: 262
You can get the Turkmen transit visa at home before leaving, if you have visa for the countries before and after in your passport already. The transit visa however does have fixed days and while the legal max is 5 days, they may only give you 3 or 4 depending on their mood. If your planning is not spot on, you'll need to get a new one anyways if you miss that small time window. Also I heard they don't like giving transit visas for the ferry route, as the ferry timing is usually unreliable, but that may have changed (I had come from Iran when I crossed TM).

As to the tourist visa, that does require a guide (who may ride pillion to save costs if you have space on the bike). It also requires pre-arranged accomodation and the like, making this a nearly as costly endeavor as crossing China, as you don't only pay for the guide (and possibly his vehicle), but also for the most expensive hotels they can come up with.

As to the closest crossing TM - UZ near the Aral Sea, that would be Kenurgench I believe. Walter is right though, there isn't really any Aral water (let alone sea), at least not in Uzbekistan. It looks different on most maps (including Google maps), and there is a long way to go (on sand) before you reach any water to speak off. The beached ships still make for impresse (if depressing) pictures. Have a look on my blog for a taster ;-)

May I also suggest spending a bit more time in UZ than to hop straight into the Kazakh desert, at least plan stops in Chiva and one of Samarkand or Bukhara.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 8 May 2011
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 994
+1 on Samarkand and Bukhara, great places to see
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 8 May 2011
Gold Member
New on the HUBB
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gosport
Posts: 10
Uzbekistan and beyond

Had our first planning day yesterday, it's my 17 year old son who will be accompanying me on this trip. The route beyond Turkmenistan will allow us to slow down and take more in, thanks for the pointers.

We've set aside 7 - 8 weeks to get to Ulaan-Bataar so hopefully there will be some time for us to take in the local interests.

Still looking for another C90 enthusiast maybe.

J Badger
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 26 May 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 602
These days' you have a choice... if you want to see beached boats and endless km's of former sea-bed, then Moynaq in UZ is the place. If you actually want to see the sea, the area NW of Aral (Aralsk) or around Kokaral (SW of Aral) is the place. It's a 100km diversion from the M32 to get to the Kokaral Dam (interesting spot) or 40 odd km's from Aral on sandy tracks.

Assuming you get a Turkmen transit visa, you can actually enter Kazakhstan close to the shore of the Caspian, south of the town of Zhanaozen. I don't know the road conditions however.

The border north of Tashkent (Zhibek Zholy (KZ) / Gosht Koprik (UZ)) Is reportedly open once again to foreigners, though I have not crossed it since 2007.

Daniel
__________________
4.5 years around Eurasia in a Toyota Hilux|http://eurasiaoverland.wordpress.com/
Pictures Here|https://picasaweb.google.com/113619413612674951960
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
advice needed - fuel needed for stans and mongolia ExtremeGene Equipping the Bike - what's the best gear? 7 12 Nov 2008 12:40
vaccinations needed for border crossings Peru-Bolivia-Chile ?? gestein TRAVEL Hints and Tips 3 10 Aug 2007 15:22
vaccinations needed for border crossings Peru-Bolivia-Chile?? gestein Travellers' Advisories, Safety and Security on the Road 7 27 May 2007 13:08
quick advice needed, crossing the stans moggy 1968 Northern and Central Asia 3 8 Oct 2006 15:15
africa route advice please (border crossings) deebee Route Planning 8 29 May 2006 22:11

 
 

Announcements

Thinking about traveling? Not sure about the whole thing? Watch the HU Achievable Dream Video Trailers and then get ALL the information you need to get inspired and learn how to travel anywhere in the world!

Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's the list of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now
, and add your information if we didn't find you.

Next HU Eventscalendar

HU Event and other updates on the HUBB Forum "Traveller's Advisories" thread.
ALL Dates subject to change.

2024:

Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!

Questions about an event? Ask here

HUBBUK: info

See all event details

 
World's most listened to Adventure Motorbike Show!
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)



Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.

Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.

Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!


 

What others say about HU...

"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia

"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK

"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia

"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada

"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa

"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia

"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany

Lots more comments here!



Five books by Graham Field!

Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook

"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:24.