West side of Tanzania the road from Kigoma to Mbeya
 

I and 3 others are planning a Nairobi to Cape Town trip in November/December this year on Yamaha Tenere 660Zs.
We are intending to go from Nairobi, over the top of Lake Victoria, then through Uganda and Rwanda, down the west side of Tanzania before heading south along the western edge of Lake Malawi into Zimbabwe, where we plan a break in Harare.
The one road we are concerned about is the west side of Tanzania, from Kigoma to Mbeya - whether it is likely to be rainy in mid November and if the road is passable in wet conditions!
Would love to hear from anyone with any experience of the road - comments welcome!
Many thanks.
Jeremy

Hi,
I did that route in July last year. All in the dry.
Apart from the road to and from Kigoma it's all tarmac.
There's a dirt road from Manyoni to Mbeya but the locals warned me off it, as being "just too much hard work, and not particularly interesting."

I was recommended the road via Dodoma and Iringa and through Mikumi Park, and it was a great ride.
'Touring Ted' on this forum also has a blog and he said he decided against the Manyoni-Mbeya road after exporing it a little.
But I heard somewhere on my route that the southern end of that road is worth exploring for a little way from Mbeya if you have the time.

The Kigoma road here:
Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Stories - Ken Thomas
and here:
Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Stories - Ken Thomas

Don't know what it's like in the wet, but I was told the buses don't go along it in the rains. I would guess it's pretty difficult, depending on your skills and weight of luggage. The river crossings (all dry when I was there) look like they could be pretty deep, and no bridges. Nor do I know when the rainy season is.

Mikumi Park here:
Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Stories - Ken Thomas

The whole of my route through Tanzania was a big highlight of my trip. (Including Kigoma). Most of it was away from tourist areas, and people very hospitable.

I stayed in Harare about 10 years ago, and in Bulawayo last year. I liked both places but for me Bulawayo is just ahead.

In Tete, Mozambique, I met an overlander who recommended the route from there to Chimoio, and it was a good recommendation. Both the route, and Chimoio itself:
Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Stories - Ken Thomas
and
Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Stories - Ken Thomas

Thus I crossed into Zimbabwe at Mutare and ended up in Bulawayo:
Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Stories - Ken Thomas

Another highlight on my route was Bungoma, NW Kenya near Uganda border. A very nice ordinary town.

Have a good trip.

Take the coast road...
 

The big question for you will be 'when will the rains start?'. You should be fine in November but it can be anywhere between dry as a bone and monsoonal...

The road from Mpanda to Mbeya is rough but you'll be fine on Tenere's. Busses and trucks do it in the wet season.

There is a road and some pretty good tracks that can get you from Kigoma to Mpanda along the lake shore. Drop me a line and I can send you track logs in GPX format if you like. Either way, if you keep asking the locals you'll find your way.

There are two options from Kigoma to Mpanda. One is the main inland road and it's rough, especially in the wet but you should be fine in Nov/Dec. My suggestion though is to take the coast road. Is 4WD only but for Tenere's will be an adventure and very doable. Head out of Kigoma then after 21km turn right towards Ilagala. You leave the bitumen at this point and it's all dirt from here to Mpanda. 150km south, you get to Mgambazi. Go past Mgambazi, through the big river there (towards Lukoma) but after 5km you turn left up towards Ikabulu, Lubalisi, Mwese then Mpanda (200km from where you turned left). Drop in for a cuppa on your way through as we are on this track.

In Kigoma, stay at Jacobsens Beach. It's about 5km south of Kigoma and has camping or rooms right on the lake. You'll need to bring and cook your own food though. It's in Lonely Planet but let me know if you have questions.

Hello,
Just found your blog about Tanzania. We are in Rwanda and the moment and would like to do the road down lake tanganika . In a landcruiser... Is it doable or very very rough?
Your help would be very appreciated .
Kind regards
Gudi

I didn't use that road (Mpanda to Mbeya) but met a young woman in Nairobi who had done it with her small child in a small camper van in the dry season, and she said all was OK.

My experience was that there was a lot of road surfacing going on in Tanzania and I met at least 2 road engineers in restaurants and small-town hotels. (Their work seemed to centre on the small towns. One went to university near where I used to work in London, so that was quite a jolly meeting!)
And they knew the conditions of just about all the roads in Tanzania.
So once you're in the country, ask the locals, or look out for major road works and look for the man in charge.

I liked Kigoma a lot, and Ujiji. Laid back but bustle-y as well. I was about the only white face in town which is how I like it.

You should have a great time in Tanzania!

Hi Jeremy,

I am coming upmthe other way from CPT to NBO on a F800GSa.
Did younuse the Kigoma to Mbeya road when crossing South ?
I hope to Mbeya to Kigoma this coming weekend, Nov 20th, so all first hand experience is welcome.

Thx, gerard@loonbeek.be

Hi J, how did Kigoma to Mbeya go ? I plan to do it nov 20.21th on f800gs,any advice ?
 

Thx for advice
G.


OTE=Jeremy Boadle;345687]I and 3 others are planning a Nairobi to Cape Town trip in November/December this year on Yamaha Tenere 660Zs.
We are intending to go from Nairobi, over the top of Lake Victoria, then through Uganda and Rwanda, down the west side of Tanzania before heading south along the western edge of Lake Malawi into Zimbabwe, where we plan a break in Harare.
The one road we are concerned about is the west side of Tanzania, from Kigoma to Mbeya - whether it is likely to be rainy in mid November and if the road is passable in wet conditions!
Would love to hear from anyone with any experience of the road - comments welcome!
Many thanks.
Jeremy[/QUOTE]

probably too late for GerardG, but just did Rumphi (Malawi) to Uvinza (Tanzania) with a riding buddy, mid-November 2015.

Rumphi > Chitipa (Malawi)... dirt, thru Nyika Park in Malawi
Chitipa > Tunduma (Tanzania)... dirt except 25 km or so at the end
Tunduma > Sumbawanga ... all tar
Sumbawanga > Uvinza ... virtually all dirt

At Uvinza we turned east and made Dar es Salaam a few days later.... a mix of dirt and tar from Uvinza to Manyoni, then tar all the way.

All dirt roads were fine & doable except for a bit of mud as the rainy season started up for the year... no sweat in dry conditions, at the peak of the rains I imagine those roads would be a bit trying.

Remote western Tanzania is an awesome adv moto destination, be sure to camp or lodge at Riverside Camp in Sitalike, Tanzania, at the north of Katavi Park, next to 300 hippos! :)