Hi all - first of all let me say that this site has an amazing amount of useful info which a friend and I have been searching through for days...

We're planning a trip to Leh/Ladakh and Kardung La, will have a maximum of 3 weeks and would like input on an itinerary.

We realise that acclimatising may be an issue and want to avoid any potential problems so which of the itineraries below would you recommend or do you have better ones?

#1 Shimla - Leh - Manali

Delhi to Shimla
Shimla to Narkanda
Narkanda to Manali
Manali to Jispa
Jispa to Sarchu
Sarchu to Tso Moriri Lake
Tso Moriri Lake to Leh
Leh to Nubra Valley (inc Kardung La)
Nubra to Hemis
Hemis to Sarchu
Sarchu to Manali (inc Rohtang Pass)

#2 Shimla - Spiti - Leh

Delhi to Shimla
Shimla to Narkanda
Narkanda to Sangla
Sangla to Kalpa (inc Chitkul)
Kalpa to Nako
Nako to Kaza (inc Tabo)
Kaza to Keylong (inc Kunzum-La)
Keylong to Sarchu
Sarchu to Tso Moriri Lake (inc Lachlung La)
Tso Moriri Lake to Leh
Leh to Kardhung La to Leh

Also - opinions seem divided on the best time to go.
We had been thinking of mid-June. OK or not?

Seems like most tour groups average less than 180 kms a day and we would like to stop along the way to see the sights etc but in a 3 week motorcycle trip would we have time to do a side trip to Nepal and still make it back to Delhi to fly home?

We have been in contact with a shop called BulletWallas who seem to have reasonable rates for rental Enfields - are there any better places we should contact?

What can we expect in terms of daily expenses for gas, accomodations, food etc if we keep it on a middle of the road budget (i.e not depriving ourselves but not insisting on Ewan and Charley style meals and hotels)?

Thanks all.

I suggest route through Kinnaur and Spiti. We travelled this route and avoided AMS. Spiti was the best part of this trip, more attractive then crowded Ladakh. I am not sure if Bullets are the best choice for such travel. I would rather use modern Bajaj or Pulsar.
In mid June you can be stuck by snow. It can also happen in July but later you will start you will reduce risk. We were in August and weather was perfect.

We did the road to Ladakh and Leh via Kashmir in 2009. When we were in Manali in April waiting for the road to open we had several differing reports from local police and tour operators about when the road would open, some said a week some said longer. After almost 10 days we decided to go around via Kashmir and Srinigar to Leh. By the time (approx 10 days later) we got to Leh in late april (only 2days after the road opened up) we were pretty much the first tourists in Leh. We had the whole place for ourselves and really enjoyed it. However I can understand that it wouldn't be so enjoyable in July and August when the hoards of tourists arrive from Manali, by plane and via Kashmir.

There are several tour operators that do the whole loop including Kashmir, Ladakh and himachal pradesh in just 2 weeks on enfields, so I don't think you'll have a problem with that choice of bike. And I don't think you'll have a problem with that time of year either. That said it is the Himalayas and mountains are unpredictable at the best of times and that needs to be respected. Unfortunately you must share the roads with less educated people and it can be dangerous so keep your wits about you.

Back in 2009 the Spiti road was closed due to avalanches and it couldn't be driven all the way and there was a need for permits. Although we would like to have gone, time wasn't on my side. I would suggest to you to keep a few days up your sleeve just in case it takes longer than expected to get a permit or there is an avalanche blocking the road. I think you should concentrate on enjoying the one area rather than spreading your time to thinly and attempting to fit in a tour of Nepal. Nepal IMHO deserves 1 month alone, 2 weeks riding and 2 weeks trekking.

Btw don't hang around in Shimla too long, it's nice for a or two but it is the Indian tourist destination for all those well-to-do indians wanting to escape the Delhi summer inferno. And as we found out their is a fair share of crime and we had some bags stolen and our bikes tampered with, even when parked in the hotel parking!

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AMS = Acute Mountain Sickness?

Actually the Bulletts we've been quoted prices on are the more modern ones with disc brakes and left side shifts. Hopefully they're a bit more reliable (?)
What are your issues with them and do you have a contact for renting something else?

Thanks for the input on the route - I've read grreat things about Spitis and it sounds like that route is also a good way to acclimatize. As to our other question - any comments on realistic budget per day after rental costs?

Good info - thanks.

Any comments on costs / budgets / places to stay etc?
Are there choices for accomodations along these routes or shoudl we take camping gear? Will we need to take gas containers or are there enough fuel stops that a motorcycle with a full tank can make it between them?

Appreciate all the info guys - keep it coming and feel free to suggest different routes if you've done something you want to share that is really cool.

Yeah, AMS is seriuos thing and driving through Spiti can help to acclimatize. Gettin permit is an ease game in Rekong Peo, just 2 hrs. We used our own bikes, but we have seen plenty of rented Enfield along the route. They were in really bad condition. I am sure Pulsar or other 200 ccm bike would give you more pleasure than old Enfield.
We were in India 4 weeks and spent about 900 USD for 2 person and all the cost including food, hotels, petrol etc...
Rather cheap

Possibly interesting word, images and vids: Indian Himalayas TBSdotCom

Last time I was there was 2004, so can't advise on up to date info.

Enjoy your trip.
Chris

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CURRENT RR WITH REGULAR UPDATES: The Wife Takes on Chlamydia: A South American Retrospective

Hey Sambor - yeah you might be right about the type of bike but as someone else pointed out pretty much all the tour groups seem to use the Royal Enfields and I must admit that doing the trip on one has a certain appeal. Of course they probably also have a truck full of spares following them too. Still it would be something different...

That being said we'll continue to do our research and see what people are saying about other options. Have heard good comments about the Pulsars and the Honda Cbz. They all seem to be priced about teh same as the R.E 350cc so price isn't an issue - more concerned with reliablility and the reading.

BTW Chris - awesome website with lots of good info. Thanks for posting up we can definitely get some great ideasa and info from there.

hi there,
I've been twice up there (2007 & 2010).
first time on kashgar-leh-manali route was beginning of september.
last year was on the reverse way on early october. as for my experiences the late you go the best weather you'd meet, but mountains are mountains...
on 2010 after the august flash flood roads were in very bad shape. rotang dipped into the mud, moran plain under reconstruction, sandy tracks instead of tarmac i meet in 2007, taglang la mud & stones. from there, down to rumtse and upshi the road it has been washed away: i rode on the river amongst huge stones and water xssings. little bit better was from leh to srinagar. lot of sections are gravel as for recostruction and new bridges are on plan. it should be better shaped on this year as they've plan to tarmac from manali to sarchu, except the rotang off course, and from leh towards kashgar they as they're improving road widht after lamayuru to zojii la.
if you can choose, go late in the season you should be able to avoid rain and snow fall (as it happens to me in both cases) weather is pretty fine, two weeks in leh area without any drop of rain last time.
as for spiti road it is even worse then manali-leh; narrowed and bad road.
do not absolutely miss over the khardung and nubra valley, the pangong tso 140 km east of leh nearby the chinese border. you'll need a permit as for nubra (most of hotel and guest houses can provide it for you (e.g. oriental guest house). pangong tso, as for me, is the beautiful place i ever been: wild, quiet and peaceful. a meditation spot.
as for pics sgo to www.lungastrada.it

and enjoy your route!

Thanks dnicoletti - what kind of bike did you use and what were your daily expenses? Any recommendations for palces to stay??

What a question!
an HARLEY of course! SEE PICS ON MY WEBPAGE!

as for daily expenses: you can find budget guest houses in leh (eg oriental g.house ask 150 rs for a very basic single room with shared bathroom) in nubra you can get it on about 350/400rs (double) on pangong tso i was in a changpa sheperd's g.house for 300 rs with dinner (how do you say; hot shower?)
this is the average, even in kargyl (hotel) and sarchu (tent). be prepared to a cool night in sarchu as in pang.

DON'T DREAM IT, DO IT!!!!!!!

Ah - so did you have to carry a lot of extra oil to keep it topped up and loads of chrome nuts to replace the ones that vibrated off??



DOH !!

Sorry - couldn't resist...


Just checked out your web page - your photography is spectacular!!
Very nice indeed!

well, usually people think about in this way, but to be honest, i only had to refill one liter engine oil along 16,000 km ride...
and I don't like chrome...
cheers

Just messing - no offense intended...

it is too late to say no offence... you'll pay with your blood!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and your plastic bunch two wheels will burn into the hell's flames!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!