What's possible in Nepal / N India / Kashmir in April?

[transalp_rob]

I'll be arriving in Nepal from Bangkok on a Transalp at the start of April, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to spend 4-5 weeks

I'm planning to do Kathmandu - Pokhara - Butwal - Mahendranagar in Nepal. Is it worth heading east from Kathmandu (towards Everest) at all, or is that a non-starter?

It sounds like the road from Manali to Leh is a non-starter until the middle of June, so I'm thinking of Chandigarh - Shimla - Rampur - Spiti Valley - Manali - Jammu - Srinagar. I'd then have to double back to Jammu in order to get to Atari for the crossing to Pakistan.

Is this doable? And is this the most interesting route? Finally, am I likely to have any issues with road closures on the KKH in mid-May?

Cheers!

Rob

One man caravan

[morinipete]

Hi Rob, 'been chugging round Nepal for three years on my Bullet (I work here) but am off back to the UK (via India, Pakistan, Iran...etc) from early April myself.

In Nepal Kathmandu is a bit of a prison (there is honestly only one road in and out) and the road north to the Tibet border is only really a day trip (though blisful release from KTM). Pokhara if fine, but from there a good route is to go to Tanseng, then go to the far west (Bardia) which is about the only place worth hanging out for a few days. Pokhara is like Blackpool, but if you're suffering attention defecit by that point its chock-a-bloc with 100s of back packers, noisy bars, etc.

In Chitwan Suaraha is the place to stay and takes 4 hours from KTM. It's not well signposted, but a good chillout place for two-three days.

Personally, if I had say two weeks in India, from Nepal (Bardia) I'd go Lucknow, Agra then due west to Rajastan. Really good biking country and really good hotels rates ,etc (and cracking place of course).

have a good trip...........
Pete

[morinipete]

Sorry, forgot to say there is NO petrol in Nepal at the moment. This is a regular occurance, as are total national strikes, road blocks, etc. Nothing to worry about, but make sure you are full to the brim of petrol before you arrive, drive slow (to conserve it !) and dont plan things down to the day/hour as you're likely to get stuck for a day somewhere or other.....it's all part of the 'Nepal experience' !

[Kusi1]

arrived in Kathmandu a few days ago from Bangkok. Managed to get a full tank of fuel after lining up for 1hr, the guy at the petrol station told me there is a 500 rupe limit for bikes, not sure what the situation is outside of Kathmandu, but overall it dos not sound to good.

[jopos]

Hi there,

In november 2008 I had no problems with petrol, so that is new.

After Kathmandu heading Bardia I did buy petrol always from local people becaurse there where no petrol stations. I gues the local people will not have a petrol limit for bikers.......
If you go to the Bardia national park, please say hello from Joop from Holland to the people from the Tharu Home Resort. (small resort with frendly people)

Perhaps my website is also interesting: Going East - Home
Enjoy.

[morinipete]

Hi,

For anyone out there, the Nepal petrol (actually all fuel) situation is a long term issue, affected by a number of things.

The Bad bits

1. All fuel (petrol, diesel, bottled gas, etc) in Nepal comes from India. The body which jokingly calls itself "The Government" pays India as and when it feels like it, this being normally about one month after India cuts supply for non-payment ! This has been going on for at least 3 years (believe me it used to be far worse, as the government used to sell it for LESS than they actually paid, making non-supply a positve 'plus' as far as the government was concerned).
2. Once fuel supply is reserected, it takes ages to get it in to the country as Nepal has only so many turcks (needless to say fuel supply is government controlled) and there is only one long hilly road to KTM
3. Strikes and 'Bandhs' have been going on for about 3-4 years and at present they're about as bad as they've been in a long time. Groups in the south (the Terai) which are paticularly pissed off by what the "Government" are doing in general are now well aware fuel has to pass throug 'their' territory, and as such fuel supply is delibertatly targetted.

The good bits

1. As supply has been so bad for so long people stock pile if they can afford it. As such if you need fuel (and can't get it) put the word around that you'll pay over the odds for some, and it will normally arrive !
2. Because they are furthest from the border, where the fuel comes from, Pokhara is the worst place for fuel in the country closely followed by KTM. Once you get in to the Terai, where the main (OK only) east - west highway is, it normally becomes less of a problem, especially for petrol as there are so few petrol vehicles (its all diesel buses and trucks).

As such, don't dispair, but try to avoid Pokhara (I would anyway !) if there are problems, as once you're in the Terai, where the best riding is, you should be OK. And remember if you have a Carnet getting to and from India is not that difficult. In fact you dont even need to cross the border as in places like Nepalgunj you can ask rickshaws to go over to India for you and bring jerry cans of fuel back (its quicker than getting your carnet processesed !)

Pete