Two of us are trying to plan a 14 day tour (not part of an organised group) in North India (Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir)
We would like to take trains from Dehli to Shimla to avoid the grind north of Dehli.

First question
Can anyone tell me whether we can rent motorcycles (Royal Enfields) in Shimla and if so advise me contact details, e-mail address, etc.?
If not Shimla can anyone advise motorcycle rental places in either Kalka or Chandigarh?

Second question
In these regions where we plan to tour, is it better to take tents, etc or is there sufficient places to find basic accomodation and food each night.

Third question.
Is petrol easily available in the villages of the region or do we need to plan on carrying spare fuel containers?

Thanks for any help you can give

Petrol is available everywhere in India.

I haven't seen any places to camp in India, but I've heard there's spots. There's "guest houses" in every city. There's plenty of "hotels" where it's just a restaurant and they've pointed me to a guest house.

I left my tent and sleeping bag in Delhi a few months ago and haven't wanted either since. I enjoy camping but there's someone every 5 feet in India.

If you stop in a village and say (or actually pantomime) that you want food and a place to sleep, someone will provide.

I don't know about places to rent bikes. You can rent one in the Karol Bagh district of New Delhi and put it on a train.

It's a neat country. I'll be leaving 18 Nov but if you're here before then, let me know.

-Dave

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You will struggle in Shimla to rent a bike i expect. Although there are the usual Indian Enfield garages...the fact shimla is largely pedestrianised means that the focus on tourisms is away from motorbike hire etc.

When i was there i struggled to find secure bike parking there and also to find somewhere to stay where i could park the bike which was near enough the old colonial town. I settled on a place nearer the railway station, slightly below the town (i forget the name) which looks expensife but isn't.

Most people without bikes end up staying at the ymca as its clean and one of the cheapest places in town.

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Thanks
Joe

Most people I saw had rented Enfields from Manali. It should be possible to free camp in the mountains, at least I did but not very often as like people say, you can find accommodation everywhere.

Joe- I met you in that wee cafe in Kalpa I think a few months back, hope the rest of your trip went well!

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Dave thanks for the thought of renting in Delhi and putting it on the train. Is that really possible, bike on train, to say Chandigarh?

Joe your information on renting in Shimla is most helpful as it stops me wasting my time looking for something that is not there. I had wondered as all my research drew a blank.

Mike most helpful. Manali would be very suitable – do you know how we could reach Manali from say Delhi. For example does the train service go to Manali? Also do you happen to know a name, e-mail, etc of a motorcycle rental company in Manali to see if I can track it down?

Once again a big thanks to you guys and for any other info. you might think helpful.

Duncan

Yes, Shimla is a days 2-train journey from Delhi. Take the "Himalaya Queen" (6am'ish) to Kalka then transfer at Kalka (i think!) onto a narrow-guage which winds its way into the hills, getting to Shimla 8-9pm'ish. By Indian standards a (relative) doddle - once you've actually got the ticket, that is... ahhh the joys of the Foreigners ticket office!

we actually thought of transporting our Vstrom on a train from Agra to Mumbai last December. Were so fully fed up with Indian traffic at that point!

The problem was, that except the departure and arrival stations, the trains only make very short stops, so we were adviced we should assist lifting the bike into the train on one day (there should be a compartment for cargo), then follow the same route the next day, then go to the main parcel office in Mumbai to pick it up....................... all this got us a little doubtful, whether it would work as promised, and what would we do then, if the bike isnt to be found there. In the end, we didnt do it.

But going from Delhi to some smaller destination might work just fine (but the bike changing the train, I dont know). And its quite cheap, too. Trains are a fun way to travel in India (riding the national highway is NOT!!!) But I´d still try to go on the very same train as the bike, not a nice idea that someone´s keeping it somewhere overnight. Maybe that is negotiable at the station.

The traffic in south India is much easier than north India. Night and day. It seems almost normal. Although if I started in the south, I'd probably think it was insane at first.

In the south, the roads are paved! Mostly good pavement. India is pulling itself up by the bootstraps and there's tons of work going on here. Drivers mostly stick to the left side. Not as many people and animals crowding the roads.

I trained my Enfield from Delhi to Cochi. They lost it for a couple days, bent a foot peg and spilled some glue on the front fender. You're supposed to ship them with no fuel, and they try to take any fuel you have, but the Enfield I have has a locking fuel gauge, so fuel wasn't taken. They tried and I had to reconnect the lines.

I like riding (although the trains here are great), but I was in a hurry to meet a friend and I had to get out of Delhi before my brain exploded. The traffic there can't be appreciated until you've ridden through holiday rush hour.

Locals have been setting fire to trains lately -- after the passengers are kicked off. I don't know if they're burning luggage cars.

Leaving your bike at a station overnight is fine. There's a charge after a set amount of time, but I wasn't charged after they lost my bike.

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We rode from Pakistan to Amritsar, then Dharamsala-Chandigarh-Delhi-Agra-Udaipur-Ahmedabad-Mumbai-Goa-Calicut-Ooty-Kochin-Alleppey-
Munnar-Kodaikanal-Trichy-Pondy-Chennai, some 5500kms, and I still think it was roughly the same all over. Ok, sure the big cities were worst, and maybe the roads were just a little better in the south, but lots and lots of traffic there, too, and very slow going. I remember a 8km queue of trucks when the road crossed a railway in the south, 4kms on each side.

Only the hwy 17 from Mumbai to Goa was sometimes enjoyable and relatively quiet, and also some roads to the hill stations were nice. The rest was just more or less insane. Maybe it will get better, once they complete those massive roadworks (or maybe there will just be even more traffic then?!?)

Maybe we chose the wrong roads, too, but finding your way outside the national highways, and getting basically anywhere in one sunlight was also quite challenging. 200kms was a long day, 400kms a huge task.

I dont regret doing it, not at all, but it was probably the last time I want to go riding myself in India. Think I´ll take the plane next time!

Just my view, after my 2nd trip to India, not necessarily "the truth" but how I felt. And I love India (except the traffic!)

I gave up on getting my bike shipped here from Australia and bought an Enfield in Kathmandu. Kmandu-Varanasi-Agra-Delhi. Bike took the train to Cochi but I flew (man, Delhi was getting to me). Then Varkala-Kanyakumari (southernmost mainland India point) and now I'm in Madurai which I've been trying to leave for 2 days. I want to get to Pondicherry but personal life through email got involved and the 12.5 hour difference makes a long discussion.

I think the south roads are great. Mostly paved. No problems at 80-100k where 60k could really be pushing it north. Not nearly as dusty. Not as many dead people and dead dogs on the roadside. It's weird comparing dead dogs with dead people but it makes sense here to me.

I don't have any real travel plans. I just sort of head in one direction and try not to cover long distances. Up north, I spent a 13 hour day without making 150km so after that experience, short is what I shoot for. I've taken the wrong road a few times but usually just aiming in one direction works. There's not many roads and I ask for the next village in my direction (often pronouncing the name a dozen times before one gets through).

Everything India is insane. I'm going to come back to visit Leh, Dharmsala, and the Pakistan-India border that does the lowering the flag display. Plus the ride through the Himalayas was the best ride I've ever done. People in Nepal are as friendly as Indians only not anywhere as close to trying to lighten your wallet as much.

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This is good stuff for a new boy like me. Your comments, being real world, gives me an insight to what to expect and will influence my planning. Some of you guys are doing some pretty serious travelling. Still if I can get my 2 week taster in up in Himachal Pradesh it will I hope prepare me for a return the following year and a longer trip, which is the plan.
Thanks again for all your info.
Duncan

I hope you like India, or more specifically Indian society, as the diversity of the landscape is truly fantastic! But after chatting to the visiting foreigners i came across i find that that society there polarizes people's perceptions like no other country - you either love it or hate it..., but as an experience it is the Real Deal. A must-do country.

Hi
Pick up a tourist bus from Delhi (pahar ganj etc) to Manali via the Kulu valley.Man,that bus journey alone is worth it (I could fill a book with all the shit that happened on that trip!!!)Suffice to say you will arrive in Manali in one peice.It is also very cheap.Manali is a bit of a disappointment surrounded by Alpine scenery,its an Indian honeymoon resort so you kind of know what to expect.except when you get there its even more surreal. Its a good place to hire a bike though,old 350 enfields can be hired from just about any agency pretty cheaply Loads of accomodation in Manali but Vashisht (2K North)is better.Watch out for touts and other light fingered rascals,the place is full of them.Quality of fuel can be a problem and its wise to invest in a 5ltr can(just in case)but as you will find out India has a knack of coming up with what you need when you want it.
PS Riding anywhere in India is an intense headf***, you need to tune into it.I loved it,but there are 2 rules you should always follow;1/ Get your miles done in the morning 2/ Never ride at night(in the dark)its bad enough in daylight, at night its insane!

Sparky,
Thanks for advice on NOT riding at night. I will heed it.

Manali is the place we are going to try to rent the bikes. I have seen other forums mention a company called Anu or Anu Auto work or similar. I am trying to make contact with Anu but do not have any specific contact details.
Can you give me any contact details like web site or telephone numbers for Anu or other bike remtal companies in Manali?

Thanks

There was a conversation on riding in India monsoons about riding at night. I think it's easier than riding in the day, but that varies from person to person.

I tend to get a late start and sometimes get stuck riding at night. Less traffic, less animals, less insane pedestrians and bicyclists. I also like to see things so I'd rather ride in the day.

There's fuel stations everywhere but I've talked to people who run out and ask in villages and always find some. Just follow the "never pass a fuel station without stopping" thing. Of course, the Enfield has a large tank.

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