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Photo by Ellen Delis, Lagunas Ojos del Campo, Antofalla, Catamarca

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Ellen Delis,
Lagunas Ojos del Campo,
Antofalla, Catamarca



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  #241  
Old 19 Feb 2013
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Unhappy Spot Broken

If you wondered why we are not moving now it is because Spot has crapped out.

We have contacted spot and await there response to replace it so in the mean time our block will cover were we are.

Luv to all

Andi & Ellen
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  #242  
Old 19 Feb 2013
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Oaxaca

The trip from Puebla to Oaxaca was uneventful and we took the Cuota road to make some time given the hard day getting out of Mexico City.

We had arranged a couchsurf stay with Don and Pat, riding the Cuota road we made good time, we had a bit of fun finding their place but not because the lack of instructions :deal

They greeted us and welcomed us in and made us feel at home .... bloody typical Canadians!! :rofl

Unpacking and changing into human clothing we sat down and scoffed some cold water which was very welcomed, Pat had organised Spaghetti for tea which was outstanding and set the bar high.



Next morning Don took us to town to see if we could find sealant and an O ring for Maya given she was pissing fuel out when things got hot, success, we did get an oring but more so we bought some fuel proof sealant/adhesive to fix the problem, looks like we succeeded thus far.



Swapped the non return vent to the rear and put put the open hose to the main tank, thanks to the Flexx Bar cushion it holds the tube in place perfectly.





That afternoon Ellen set to and made some dumplings (No pictures sorry, we could show you but we would have to kill you ), I set too and fixed Maya ... again.

Centro was calling so we piled into a bus and had a look around Oaxaca town center, arriving back home we all tucked int the dumplings, Don and Pat gave them the big thumbs up so that was great.





Tequilas and chats then off to bed with another successful day under our belt.

The pyramid ruins were on the agenda for the following day, we were greeted with a hot clear day and our hike started at 9.30 am before the heat really set in.

The ruins were very cool, amazing the flat area that had been formed on the top of the mountain which commanded 360 degree views.





Some large circular base columns



Me!! (note Ozzies no pink bum :rofl)



View of town from the top of the ruins



On finishing there we took the bus into Abastos the huge market place in Oaxaca town, memorizing to say the least.



Fruitart



Valentines Day .... same same world wide



Once we were done mindlessly running around in circles we headed back to home base.

Pat and Don cooked bar b q chicken, another outstanding meal thoroughly washed down by more Tequila :freaky ... life is good.



The plan was to leave the following morning however the teachers were having their annual strike blockading all major shopping centres and city exits so we were not going anywhere, Don and Pat said no point trying to go so we decided to stay (mainly cos we can't go anywhere).

Ellen could not get Sushi ingredients so unfortunately Don and Pat dipped out, onya teachers!! :huh



Receiving an email from Phil and Jane, team bro and sis traveling south as well, we had a few emails back and forth and they came out to join us for tea that night, Don and Pat took us all out for tea to a local Tacorilla, the food again was outstanding and we all left substantially heavier.





See what the fud did to Phils eyes ... it was so big it made his eyes pop out



As we were being kicked out Phil and Jane had organised to take our room the next night as we were on our way again. :clap
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  #243  
Old 19 Feb 2013
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Oaxaca to Tuxtepec - It Rained Cats And Dogs

Then the rain got heavy!! :eek1

We left Oaxaca when it was overcast. Not sure what the teachers are going to do on Monday, we didn’t want to wait and find out either.

Don told us from Oaxaca to Tuxtepec is nice windy road, up to the mountains and very nice. When we left town towards the mountain, it started to rain. We haven’t seen any rain for about 7 months, this time, it’s a real one.

I guess because the Oaxaca side doesn’t get much rain in the dry season, so it brought out the oily stuff to the surface, it’s as greasy as a butchers knife and slippery :eek1.

We carried on up to 3200m high, the temp went down to 3 deg C, we both got really cold. We had to stop on the top of the hill and found a restaurant, hot coffee ordered followed by some hot food. After a while, when we warmed up a bit, plus more warm clothes put on, we are on our way again.

The rain was driving in horizontally !!



The sign of a desperately cold face ... proof that yello can turn blue back to yello :rofl



The life saver



My jacket left a huge puddle on their floor, the water was pouring out of everywhere, the Klim gear held extremely well but water was driven in through the cuffs and the neck soaking down from my balaclava as I had to ride with my visor open for a fair bit of the time to see where we were going :eek1

Descending down the hill, this side the road was not as slippery as the other side, but the fog set in (we were actually in the cloud so no big view for us today), we can’t see 50m. It took us 5 hours to do the 220 km, and our Spot was killed by the rain too.

See the water rolling down the road



Bit damp but somewhere under there is a smile



It was windy as well as rainy so there was foliage all over the road.



Visibility was less than ideal



Thick fog and water chasing us down the road.



Getting to Tuxtepec, we quickly found a cheap hotel. Although our Gortex was water proof, riding in the rain long enough, water still found its way down to our chest and sleeves. Luckily we had the ceiling fan working all night to dry most of them.

To finish there was a waterfall cascading off the building so what is one to do but make the most of it :rofl ... next time I will wear my togs!



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  #244  
Old 20 Feb 2013
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Tuxtepec to Manititlan

Although the hotel was cheap, we both slept in until quarter to ten! :eek1

The rain has stopped, we had a dry day to start with. :clap

We rode towards to San Cristobal, just after Acayucan, the weather was looking dogdy again - dark clouds in front of us again. Andi stopped to zip up his pants. We both hop off the bike, we saw a pile of oil under Maya’s belly, and it was still pissing oil! OMG, here we go again!



Oil was everywhere



Maya was undersealed with synthetic oil, my previous cleaning job shot to pieces with road muck, rainy stuff and oil all over everything :cry



We were just opposite a Pemex, so we pushed Maya to the side. The lady from the service station was very kind, she let us park under the roof. It started spiting again. I pulled the bash plate off started the bike and found the oil hose was split, that was where the oil came from.

I cut the broken hose off, it’s now to short to put back up.



Ellen went to ask where we can get a long hose. The lady from Pemex told us of a mechanico just across the road, as luck would have it he had a straight piece, not perfect but it will get us going.

So cutting and mucking around and two hours later we were back on the road, we lost 2.5 L of oil and could only buy dinosaur oil so we got the 20 - 50 grade motorcycle oil to fill up, oil change due in about 600 km so it will come out then.

Can’t believe how lucky we were to find the problem there as a few km down the road would have been a different story and probable engine damage ... life is interesting.

Arriving at Manititlan we looked for hotel, they were either dodgy as for 150 Pesos or too much for us at 700 Pesos, we decided to hit the road out of town to find somewhere.

The last point prior hitting the main exit road was a love motel, 200 Pesos for 4 hours .... we want the night, discussions were had and we said 300 Pesos for the night?, she disagreed with us and said no and wrote down 270 Pesos till 9.30 am ......she won!!:rofl

The place was great, no Wifi she said, we turned on the computer and bing straight onto the net ..... a bonus.:clap

Being outa town a bit restricted us access to good fud so off to OXXO for hotdodgies and a tamale that was ... filling.:huh

Another interesting day saw two tired kiwis hit the sack for good sleep.
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  #245  
Old 20 Feb 2013
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Great report once again.

A bit arsey finding the leak in time.carry on.
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  #246  
Old 21 Feb 2013
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Originally Posted by Noel900r View Post
A bit arsey finding the leak in time.carry on.
Shit yeah mate, we only had 1.5L left but no RED light of death ... we were being looked after!!
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  #247  
Old 21 Feb 2013
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Minatitlan To San Cristobal

Spotless ... in two ways, what a beautiful city and now we don't know where we have been .... or at least I don't, Ellens memory is betterererer than mine :rofl

So ..... leaving the love shack we had a nice warm and dry day, milage to complete was 350 km, easy as.

We chose the Cuota road for this leg as the Libre is partly dirt and loaded with toppes through small town so would take two day for not much.

We paid in total 100 Pesos so about $8 dollars which was worth it to make the ground on mostly smooth road with NO toppes.

To be fair the view from out the window was pretty good too, once we got to Tuxtla we then got on to the Libre road which took us up to 3000 metres with a beautiful twisty road and views that were outstanding.

Only a few road pics today

Someone wrote KTM on the road but clearly can't spell KTM :rofl



Beautiful day and backdrop with mountain ranges



A large inland lake we passed



Arriving in San Cristobal was sunny, warm and inviting, within 10 minutes of arriving we found a nice hotel called Hotel San Luis with a courtyard for Maya to play in, the rooms nice, Wifi and QUIET ... something to treasure in Mexico.



We decided that was the place, soon as we unpacked we decided that was the place for two nights!

Walking into town once in civilian mode we went to a recommended coffee shop, up till now Durango had the best coffee, now it was this place buy a country mile.



So good was the coffee we didn’t bother going elsewhere for the duration of our stay, of interest the coffee is locally grown as well so we are supporting the local, a nice feeling to be honest.

Around and abut we walked through town taking in the sights and at one point at the top of stair near a church we just sat and observed.....really neat watching the Mexican world go by.

Cool old bike



We like our shadows as they are taller than us :evil



Town in the evening



Like a boring old couple we went back to the Hotel San Luis with a bottle of wine, cheese and crackers (like Wallace and Grommitt) and caught up on our trip reports and purchasing stuff for Maya.

Also to our surprise we saw a traveller earlier in the day on a Yamaha Tenere, when we arrived back home there was the bike in the courtyard and its owner Eamon Molloy came back later on so we sat round chatting... till after midnight.

Morning arrived dishing up a beautiful day again. We set off to our favorite cafe this time bringing Eamon with us, again the coffee did not disappoint yet again reinforcing it being the best we had since leaving New Zealand.



On returning to the hotel we fixed the rear brake pads which were covered in oil from the burst pipe thus leaving us with NO back brake and hauling up on one single front disc wasn’t cutting it.

Took the pads out, took them out to the sandstone street and sanded the oils shit off, job done in two minutes.

I then helped Eamon fix his leaking carb with a quick needle and seat cleaning job and some new filters.

Maya stalking Aemons Tenere like a tiger in the bushes



After fixing Eamons bike Ellen and I went for a ride to a couple of local villages to look at them, it was a nice ride and on our return we returned for a Frappe Coffee treat at our new local.

Staircase to the top of the hill



Crusing back to the hotel was more writing and picture uploading before heading out for some Indian for tea which was very nice indeed.

All in all we absolutely loved San Cristobal, is was nothing like we thought and far better than our expectations to the point that both of us agreed it was the nicest place we have been in Mexico so far ..... did I mention it was quiet .... just golden!!!

Eamon had gone to the movies and on his return we decided to ride together to Pelenque etc ...... 10.31 pm, time for the old fella and felles to go to bed.
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  #248  
Old 22 Feb 2013
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I must say this part of mexico is not at all what i thought it would be like also!

As always great photo's. Im in the process of major house reno'ing you guys are keeping me interested in life.Thanks.Noel
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  #249  
Old 22 Feb 2013
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Originally Posted by Noel900r View Post
As always great photo's. Im in the process of major house reno'ing you guys are keeping me interested in life.Thanks.Noel
Dude that is awesome, we don't mind what colour you paint our room

Hopefully have change of scenery soon, be nice to get back into some more bike stuff but with Maya still needing attention we are not wondering away to far from facilities.
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  #250  
Old 23 Feb 2013
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San Cristabal To Palenque

Perfect weather again, I can get used to this, 9.30 am start with Eamon running a bit behind we left at 9.45 am, 209 km to do, waterfalls to see and thousands of toppes to run over we were on or way.

The road was very twisty with moderate traffic so we set a slower pace so we could look out the window as the scenery was mint.

There was a number of the 15 mphr club on their Sunday drive on Wednesday so we passed these guys.

During the day Maya clicked over 10000 km



At one stage we caught up on a line of traffic probably near on 700 - 800 metres long all caught up behind a semi trailer going very slow, one by one we picked them of as it was half of first gear crawling speed with hot temps which Maya does not like ... nor do I sitting on top when it is 35 degrees plus at that pace.

After about 10 - 15 minutes of passing and pulling in one at a time we finally broke free of the pack just in time to get to a military check point and to be waved through, had we got stuck behind all the trucks etc we would have been there for hours.



Getting to the turn off to the waterfall we headed off down the hill, paid our 57.00 Pesos each and parked up by a restaurant with the restaurant man waving us in and inviting us to leave our gear under his watchful eye (also when we come back we have to buy from him .... a good business man)

Ditching all our bikie gear and turning into humans (cos it was 38 degrees C and STICKY as we wondered off looking like everyone else taking photos of the waterfall and it was very well worth going to.









Ellen piled in for a swim, bit cold for me as I like it steaming before I get in.



Returning to the bike and the restaurant Aemon bike was there, we took a seat and ordered two nice cold Cokes, no wonder he flagged us in with a big smile on his face as they were spendie ... but worth it to get a sugar boost and something chile inside, in that heat neither of us felt hungry so we didn’t eat.



Carrying on to Palenque we turned off toward to ruinas per good advice from the guy running the Indian restaurant in San Cristabal, the first few places were very expensive, one was super cheap but we had to share it was cockroaches mossies and an assortment of other aliens and finally we found a place within our price range and not to bad ... but no Wifi ... a funny thing now we have come to rely on being our link to you guys.

At that stage of the day it was sticking hot and super sticky, we both had a quick shower then the water ran out!!!.... not cold ... ran out!! 8-(

The restaurant was below so we went down for a feed, Ellen wasn’t hungry and I was only peckish so I ordered a medium size feed which fed both of us easily couple with a coldie each.

The owner had some seriously awful almost depressing music playing (note DEFINITELY not restaurant style stuff) so Ellen politely asked if he had Mexican music to which he said yes and changed it ..... this lifted the mood in the whole place.

Bedtime was calling .. time to rest for the ruinas.

Next morning we woke to a fine day for poking around the ruinas so we set off on Maya with only two km to do to the gate.

Parking Maya up the guy wanted 30 Pesos to wash her and 20 Pesos to watch her, we said no to both ... maybe he should have washed her but to be fair she is covered in oil from the popped pipe so it would not be fair to him as his gear would have gotten caked.

The ruinas were excellent to say the least, it is hard not to take photo after photo and we just sat looked, listened and learned taking in the place, many tourists on tour just rip around and out the other side, I think our money comes to us a bit harder than them so we want to make the most of it and it was a big effort to get there, your good advice Bevan, when you see it see it well!! (reinforces what we were already doing and advice taken as a reminder)

Just a few pics of the place as it has been done to death, if you want to see more go here

Palenque Ruins Photos by Twomotokiwis | Photobucket









Finishing at the ruinas we wondered back to Maya who was patiently waiting in the carpark, still dirty, still intact, jumping on the super heated seat in shorts I temporarily toasted the blokes !!!.:eek1

The Museum was just back down the road so we dropped in to see that as well, again very well presented and air conditioned it was a nice reprieve from the heat and humidity.

Again Maya waiting in the carpark we piled back on to go to the hotel, again jumping on the super heated seat in shorts I temporarily toasted the blokes !!!.... again!!!:rofl

Leaving the bike at the hotel we took a bus to town to have look around, grab some lunch and just mill around.

We found a shop named after us too :huh



We found The Italian Coffee Company and the had Wifi so that was mint, do a ride report, upload some pics and do some ordering co-ordination.

I also went to an auto shop as Maya has been losing antifreeze, hopefully from junk under the radiator cap.

Finishing our office work over a Frappe-chino (darling) we headed back to home base to fix Mayas coolant drinking problem, removing the radiator cap it had crusty crap everywhere so we cleaned it out lubed everything and filled the antifreeze back up, hopefully this will sort it out.

Home made tacos with salsa and avocado was on our menu along with apple juice.

A quick chat with our french neighbours and it was time to call it quits for the night.
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  #251  
Old 23 Feb 2013
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Welcome any time

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis View Post
Dude that is awesome, we don't mind what colour you paint our room

Hopefully have change of scenery soon, be nice to get back into some more bike stuff but with Maya still needing attention we are not wondering away to far from facilities.
But i must say when this house is finished and ready for sale it will go on the market.then i'll be moving,may do a trip of so before i settle again.
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  #252  
Old 25 Feb 2013
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Palenque To Campeche

Nothing happened .... at least that is what Ellen said. :eek1



The trip was very hot and sticky, we are starting to get used to it now but 38 - 40 degrees with high humidity still takes some adjusting for us Kiwis.

Arriving at Campeche was nice, the town is very clean, tidy and nicely kept.





Ellen found a new boyfriend



Finding a hotel was a bit of a mission as there wasn’t much in centro that was reasonably priced.

There was the 200 Peso dump or the 700 Peso middle of the range and up from there, Campeche is fairly touristy thus this showed in the prices.

We settled on an expensive (for us) hotel at 400 Peso but it did have air conditioning, the first place we had with air conditioning so it was nice.

One of the side streets, beautiful colours



A walk down to the waterfront to watch people do there thing was neat, we were treated to a pretty groovy sunset and the place was alive with people cycling, walking and general exercising which was a little unusual but we are guessing it is the influence from the Expats living there.



And check it out, the sun's brother the moon.



There are canons lined up along the waterfront and lots of places to sit and relax





Being hungry and near food stands we bought chips and deep fried chorizos for tea and churros for dessert .... YUM!!

Churros, dessert in the making :clap



Plus our empanada lunch, we really had a bad food day, big time!

Heading back to the hotel Ellen splashed out and bought some new jandles as hers were falling apart.

A good nights sleep was had in the cool of the room WITHOUT dogs barking their heads off..... it was very nice indeed to have the change.:clap
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Last edited by Two Moto Kiwis; 26 Feb 2013 at 13:00.
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  #253  
Old 26 Feb 2013
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Nice pics, you are going to have to put up with the dogs barking thing ALL the way to the bottom I think! Maybe catch up as we pass each other

Gino & Fiona
www.ginoontour.blogspot.com
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  #254  
Old 26 Feb 2013
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Tea not supper
Jandles not thongs/flip flops
so im suprised judder bars havent replaced topes?
Anyhoo carry on!
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  #255  
Old 26 Feb 2013
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Originally Posted by Noel900r View Post
Tea not supper
Jandles not thongs/flip flops
That makes us Kiwis not somebody else.

Cheers Bro
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