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Hermosillo - The Big Sort Out And Start
For us the first few days were a struggle, we have enjoyed ourselves and through good karma and very friendly Mexicans we have had a tremendous amount of help which quite frankly we would have been stuffed without.
Couchsurfing, our 5th since being on the road from Alaska, we made contact with Alberto, we were his first surfers so he did not know what to expect, we didn’t know very much Spanish so we didn’t know what to expect ... what a crowd of geniuses. :D We were invited into his home, he lives in a secure compound (not jail) with a courtyard out of sight where we parked up Chiwi and Hobbit, meeting at a local Thai restaurant which was a convenient place we shouted Alberto tea (dinner) for him accepting to take us in for the night. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-22.jpg We planned to stay the night then carry on, some dramas with Insurance and my then starting to weep shock held us back with progress, Alberto with his friendly approach said please stay and get sorted no problem at all. :clap He left for work, we settled in to get our stuff sorted out and with a quiet house and Wifi it was perfect. The Mexican insurance gig sent us off the edge so with help understanding what we were getting into Alberto helped suss things out in Spanish, even he had some difficulty which made us feel a LOT better as he is a design engineer so no dumby by any stretch. That second night we were kindly invited to go to a baseball match with the lads, what a treat not ever having been to a match before so there we were watching two Spanish teams duke it out on the field, most excellent!! Pictured here Javier, me, Alberto and Alexandro (sitting stealth) (think he was in the dunny) http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...llo/file-4.jpg Javier sporting his support painted tat :evil http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...llo/file-5.jpg These girls kept getting in the way while I was trying to take photos of the grass, sorry guys :wink: http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...llo/file-7.jpg Earlier that day we went shopping for food etc and made very slow progress with one thing and another, Ellen cooked up a Thai curry and one of Albertos mates Javier came and joined us for food, interestingly enough Walmart sell Mexican ADV bikes http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-20.jpg You can conveniently buy shampoo too at an arms length :rofl http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-21.jpg Given that we had become re-invited overstayers we set too trying to get a phone card, chains and sprockets sorted and my now newly weeping shock, apart from that we had nothing to do except tear our hair out and I don’t have much of that to start with. Javier’s 41st birthday was on that following evening so Ellen made the famous Sushi, later that evening we went out to a night club for Whiskey, dancing and good times, this closed at 2.00am so they kicked all us oldies out back to the retirement village, Javier had a yummy cheesecake which he insisted we all have some of ... ok. Sushi .... YUM!!! http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...llo/file-8.jpg Me, Ellen and Alberto http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...llo/file-9.jpg The birthday boy Javier and his good lady!! http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-10.jpg Good times :freaky http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-13.jpg More mates, http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-16.jpg Ouwh old people dancing :eek1 :D http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-18.jpg We were impressed with the concrete floor http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-14.jpg 3.40am we all cashed it in, full of sushi, grog and cheescake ... classic .. not quite what we expected from a one night stay. Friday morning Alberto was leaving to go back to Mexico city and said hey if we want to stay it would be no problem but he won’t be there, having still very incomplete business we decided to do this. Saturday we did cruze around Hermosillo after getting mostly sorted, went up to the lookout and really enjoyed the day. Some general pics http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-25.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-27.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-28.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-32.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-43.jpg Cell towers http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-48.jpg Thess little buggas are everywhere http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-41.jpg Neat colours http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-49.jpg Hobbit .... still going (touch wood) http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-50.jpg Saturday evening was one of Albertos workmates party .... in the courtyard....straight outside our door so not far to stumble. In true Mexican style we were invited to have Tacos and pasta, we bought a bottle of red wine and duly accepted, this was great talking to these guys, they wanted to know about our trip and we wanted to get local info and enjoy local peoples company only a 1.45 am finish this time. Head chef and birthday boy http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-24.jpg Does not need explaining!!! hmmm can you smell it!:evil http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-51.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-52.jpg Sean and I having a chat http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-53.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-54.jpg Sunday we went for a big walk on a local hill mountain bike / walking track, was neat for us to chat (kinda) with MTB locals, the weather was very nice an made it a pleasure, on the way back we stopped in at a supermarkdo and fooded up again for our assault on Copper Canyon as Monday lunchtime we leave, no photos as we forgot the camera.... broke the rules of NEVER leave the camera at home. Tuna Blanco, this is what this piece of cactus leaf is called, we tried it and loved it, something we have never had before, very nice to eat as fruit. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lo/file-55.jpg Now for the credits on this part of our report, I have to be honest and say although we had a very lonely start to Mexico and struggled a bit but the warmth and welcoming of the locals here has been second to none, they have set the bar very very high now. A special thanks to Alberto, your blood is worth bottling mate and Javier just for making us feel welcome like a local mate, you guys have made our stay just magic. We are now insured, shipping sorted, have a phone card, fooded and ready and much much wiser for looking learning and listening, if the rest of Mexico is only half as cool as the last few days I am not sure we will leave :D ... but we have to. |
Hermosillo To Yecora
We left at 1.30pm from Albertos, we had 281 km to do before dark which is 5.30 pm.
No prob .... errr wrong, the first 100 km was straight .. ho hum. The next 181 was like a cut up and broken supermoto track with more corners than you can poke a stick at, for 90% of it there are NO straights between the corners, totally sweet when having a dudes ride but not so great when trying to make time. :eek1 A military checkpoint was the main feature, we were stopped at 5.20 pm with 48 km to go, they took our VIN numbers, rego, names etc, opened cases etc so we blew about 10 minutes of precious time, so 5.30 when we wived goodbye and basically dark. Upon leaving a vicious dog raced out and went for my leg, for those of you who have seen the movie “I Am Legend” with Will Smith you will know what it looked like....SPOOKY does not come close, anyway long and short of it I managed to get the first kick and got it clean under the jaw sending it of line and slightly dazed but he also had a crack at Ellen all be-it a slightly distant one so she was good....I think it was put off by me!! YAY :clap: Arriving in Yecora in the dark at 6.30 pm we broke all the rules on not riding in the dark, anyway we got away with it and started looking for accommodation, at the first hotel the guy wouldn’t budge on his inflated gringoed price thinking he had a done so we left. Zipping around town in the dark was less than ideal, we spotted another place and went in, the right price, Wifi, off street parking so that ticked all the boxes. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...Creel/file.jpg Ray of ligh from above .. someone was looking down on us :rofl http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eel/file-1.jpg Turned out to be quite nice and quite, hot shower etc so very nice, when traveling the simple things like flush toilet, hot shower, Wifi and a sheeted bed are luxury items, throw in a can of Root Beer and there is no worries in the world. |
Yecora To Creel
A nice day greeted us after a cold night outside, we carried on along the torn up supermoto circuit to find some first world race track, there is no telling from corner to corner what you will find next including quad bike sized rocks in your lane.:eek1
We had to do the same distance as the day before however we did have a few more straights to sit along. Having left Yecora at a reasonable time we arrived in Creel mid afternoon, finding home again was the challenge. Ellen wanted to camp as the weather was fine so we went to the only camping ground, the lady wanted $200 pesos just to camp, we had to walk to the showers and toilets and make sure the stray dogs didn’t piss on our tent, given we wanted to do Copper Canyon the next day sans gear this was also a concern for security. I wasn’t keen to get ripped so we rode out, straight across the road to a nice looking hotel, they said $400 pesos, we wanted to stay two nights so I negotiated a rate of $250 pesos per night for the two night nights... that will do.:clap http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...el/file-18.jpg It turned out to be a nice place and for the $50 pesos more each night it was worth having all the home comforts and secure lockup for our gear while at the canyon. |
Copper Canyon
We ventured into Copper Canyon the following day, it is about 45 km to Divisadero where the Copper Canyon park starts, this is the road, just stunning!!
http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-15.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-14.jpg $20 pesos each to get in was well worth it, the Tram was calling as a must do, at $250 pesos each we thought about it and agreed that we would not be back again so we would do it and yes it was worth while going across and back. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-74.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-75.jpg In this case the Red one does not go faster as the trams counterweight each other. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yon/file-1.jpg View of the base station from the tram http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yon/file-2.jpg We had a stalker too :rofl http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yon/file-3.jpg There were amazing small villages down in the Canyon http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-42.jpg Some cattle looking like ants from the tram http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-41.jpg The main drive cable and structural tendon block ... cool stuff http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-40.jpg At the other end http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-37.jpg Some locals selling stuff, very nice but we can't carry it. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-66.jpg It is a fookin long way down :eek1 http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-89.jpg Cantilevered platforms you can stand on and look through to scare you even more :D http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-85.jpg View across the cables http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-69.jpg This guy was following me where ever I went .... don't worry about the mexicans!! http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-83.jpg They are all into scaring the crap out of their customers and charging them for it, I thought this was only done in New Zealand! http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-94.jpg Cool hole in the rock way up in the middle of nowhere http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-34.jpg Panoramic courtesy of Mike http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yon/photo2.jpg Copper Canyon is 3100 feet deeper and I think 10 times? the size of the Grand Canyon....sorry mericans but size des matter :evil http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-20.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-21.jpg Me on the edge http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-10.jpg Ellen on the other edge http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yon/file-9.jpg On our return back to the Canyon edge we met a fellow rider Mike who was on an 1150 GSA. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-11.jpg We got to talking about the canyon he had stayed in Urique the previous night so gave us the low down. For those who want to know the road is paved for 75 km from the roundabout at the south end of Creel, you take the sign to San Rafal. We went to the end to find the huge roadworks and a detour with the road turning to hard gravel from there down to Urique. The train tracks for the Chepe Train http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-18.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-16.jpg This was our turn around point as we had run out of time but on good advice being two up we decided to call it quits and return to home base, Urique was not a must see, must do so we were not too worried. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-57.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-13.jpg The ride back to Creel was uneventful and nice but started getting cold mid afternoon when the sun is low. On this corner if you make a fup god will help you by the looks of it. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...on/file-24.jpg On return to the hotel I decided we had enough daylight to clean the air filters, these normally get done at every oil change but that all happened very quickly in Fresno then exciting the US they did not get done so were overdue, they were still pretty well ok at this point as we had no been in dusty conditions. Gordon, an adventure traveler from Canada rode past us, he didn’t se us and carried on into town, I was sure if he was looking for someone or just a place to stay, I rode into town and found him coming back towards me so I did a U-ey and we had a chat, seemed he wanted some accommodation so I told him where we were which was spot on for him, and he followed me back. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pilas/file.jpg That evening info was traded as was cards etc, the following morning he was setting off to Copper Canyon and we were heading to Guacochi. |
Creel to Guachochi
Creel was a cool wee town, we stayed the two nights so had the chance to have a good look around.
Here is a few pics of central and shops. Some local crafts http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eel/file-3.jpg Groovy coloured corner shop http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eel/file-4.jpg Girl with a puppy http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eel/file-5.jpg A wall ... yeah I know http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eel/file-7.jpg Jandels made from old car tires!!! http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eel/file-8.jpg Local musicians and a stray http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eel/file-9.jpg Guachochi...... Setting off on a chilly start it warmed up very quickly, a few km down the road the famous Elephant rock appeared so we took the usual photos. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-16.jpg The road was great condition and a really nice ride, Mexico has some beautiful Canyon roads and couple with a cool but nice day made it an excellent ride. Arriving at Samachique we turned right to head to Batopilas to find out how closed the road actually is. From the turn off it is first world Laguna Seca for 99% of it then at Km 23 there is a sign, road closed!! at km 24 the road works start at that really is it, big machinery and no way through, talk is fours years to complete????, it is only 42 km from there to Batopillas. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-26.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...las/file-2.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...las/file-3.jpg On turning around it is 104 km to Guachochi which was our destination, again nice roads and friendly people, a far cry from banditos, narcos and military check points none of which we could see. Overhanging rocks http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-18.jpg Ellen http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-19.jpg Arriving at Guachochi we were almost attacked by a pack of dogs .... but this time we had the upper hand :D http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...las/file-4.jpg |
Guachochi to Batopilas
That was the game plan anyway. :eek1
Bedroom golf at 6.30 am (no photos :evil), alarm at 7.00 am so time to hop up and have a shower, breaky etc, 8.00am we started the bikes, went to Pemex to fill, left Pemex at 8.15 am .... 4 degrees C, the turnoff was at the north end of town to a little town called Yoquivo, the road is new and is Laguna Seca race track standard for 35km. Tarmac greeted us for the first 35km then it end abruptly ... i.e. road carpet to trailbike track, this was on our return but the is the end of the race track into the pits :D. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-60.jpg The road through to Yoquivo was good fun, rough in parts smooth in parts, at times the dirt powder would have been 150 mm deep and very fine like talcum powder, Ellen really enjoyed that part of the ride, these pics are pretty indicative of the road to Yoquivo. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-50.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-58.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-53.jpg On arrival at Yoquivo our trip took a bad turn, I stopped to read the sign Ellen pulled up in behind me and dropped her bike, we are not sure but she may have broken the bone or at minimum torn ligaments etc as it is up like a ballon and she can’t walk on it. She got her leg caught under the bike. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...las/file-5.jpg Not looking very happy :cry http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...las/file-6.jpg She decided to stay there, the town seemed nice enough so I carried on down to Batopilas, just as well she did not go on as the road deteriorated and became quite a bit more technical, it would have been hard enough for her without the foot injury. Going down to the bottom was spectacular with scenery and views galore, I had a few stops for pics but time was tight not knowing how bad Ellens foot was so it was a short and sweet visit to Batopilas unfortunately. Bit fuzzy sorry http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-27.jpg Beautiful day complimented by a beautiful view http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-28.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-25.jpg Part of the road http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-31.jpg Big overhanging rock http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-32.jpg Close up http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-33.jpg Half way down the canyon looking at Batopilas http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-34.jpg DRart http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-35.jpg Our world map slowly getting coloured in with cool places http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-29.jpg Close up of the village from up high http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-36.jpg I was stopped by a military blockade again (no photos, not allowed :evil), they were curious about me but were looking hard at the other vehicles, after a quick conversation and smiles in which no-one knew from either side what was talked about there was waves and farewells goodbye..... adios. The road sign, straight ahead is where the closed road comes in from, this is right at the bottom of the canyon wher you turn left to Batopilas. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-37.jpg Bridge over the Batopilas River right at the north end of town http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-38.jpg Upon reaching the bottom of the canyon I saw the Batopilas river, the Canyon base is very cool so I took a coupla pics then turned around and headed back to Ellen who was waiting in Yoquivo. Proof!!!:clap http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-39.jpg Two minutes for some pics before i turned around http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-40.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-44.jpg I was here http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-45.jpg Parked on the bridge and bugga me if a car didn't turn up when I was on the other side ... there was no traffic the rest of the time. :huh http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-46.jpg From the bottom of the canyon looking north west http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-47.jpg From the bottom of the canyon looking north east http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-48.jpg The trip back was slightly quicker with no military stop this time and riding slightly quicker back up the hill. This show the dust http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-55.jpg Arriving at Yoquivo Ellen was not there ..... she had been invited into the house across the street for lunch, I happened to turn up just at the time so I was treated to a nice lunch too.... c h o i c e :clap http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-49.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-14.jpg Cooking tortillas on a wood stove top http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-13.jpg The rest of the return trip home was uneventful luckily, now we have to deal with the walking wounded. Ellen is chip in now... While I was sitting under the big tree waiting, a young man from the house come out said hola. I told him I hurt my foot, and try to ask how many people in his house, but got no idea what he replied. We tried to make some conversation, it seemed a bit difficult at the time. Anyway, he went back to the house and came with two apples in his hand. I accepted his kind offer. Then he left to somewhere for lunch. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...las/file-7.jpg I had a visit from another local http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...las/file-8.jpg I needed a toilet, so went cross the road ask a the lady who was doing her washing there. I then was led to the house, there is a bath room there. No seat on the toilet, which seemed every body been to Mexico has been talking about it. I managed my deed then came back to my tree. It’s was after 1pm, a car came to the house cross the road. About ten minutes later, a girl walked toward to me, she invited me to her house for lunch. As she didn’t speak much English, with my little translator, we got to understand each other. While I was sitting down, Andi came back, so he joined us for a very nice home cooked soup and tortillas. The father http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-11.jpg The family, this girl is a nurse http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...as/file-12.jpg To be honest, I was thinking about quit the bike ride while sitting under the tree again. I am not up to it. Broke myself with no real reason, I was angry about myself. But after meeting the lovely people who helped me, trying talk to me, giving me food, I would not say quit anymore. I will carry on for the trip, because the experience of meeting generous people are has made up all the bad lucks and difficulties we have encountered. |
Guachochi To Matamoros
OK, not much to put up on this report, probably quite good really given the monster Batopilas report.
The road was pretty good and great fun, we did see two other bikers (locals) and with bigs waves etc was a neat find, not many big bikes here. The only other locals we found were these fellas, they are EVERYWHERE, I came around one corner and there was a huge pod of them, my front wheel went clean over the top causing my front to slide momentarily :eek1 ... they are slippery little buggas when you crack em open!! http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...moros/file.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ros/file-1.jpg Due to Ellens foot injury we took it easy on a road ride, arriving at Matamoros we decided to call it quit there for the day so headed into town central to find a hotel. There are NO hotels in Matamoros so take note ADVers, we asked some locals and found a lady who could speak basic english which was a god send, she rang the Police .... not normally what I like doing but we were not in trouble this time :D They said no problem we can have a small room to stay in with our bikes secured too, I am picturing a cell but it wasn't quite like that. :rofl Arriving at the Police station we went around the side of the building, he showed us a big shed, with a little room. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ros/file-2.jpg Turns out we were given a basketball stadium ..... now THAT is something new!! Back to the walking wounded, as it would happen the medical centre is only 50 metres away, the officer (Jorge)((no relation to Mr.Lorenzo)) (((Doon ... he IS the world champ))) insisted she go to the Doc, the Doc said at worst it could be fractured, more than likely at least torn ligaments and bad bruising so it will be uncomfortable and weak for a while. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ros/file-3.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-11.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-12.jpg He restrapped it back up and gave Ellen some hard drugs to HTFU with, she kinda has to as we have no choice. His whole family was there too ... and had food there eating as you do in a Mexican Doctors Surgery, they also gave us food for two to take away and eat so Ellen came back to our Staduim for tea. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ros/file-6.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ros/file-7.jpg We had great chats with all the guys here on the force, really great guys, very welcoming and very friendly, would have to say we stepped on a gem here by accident ..... thus proving that not ALL accidents are bad. This is Jorge who took Ellen to the doctor. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-13.jpg This is the chief who gave us the stadium :eek1 :D :clap http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-14.jpg These are the rest of the lads and me showing them our trip, it was great showing them. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-15.jpg |
Matamoros To Tepehuanes
We were lucky enough to have access to the Police station mess room which had toilet lighting and Wifi as well as a car seat to sit in so we managed to get all our reports up to date.....saweeet !! Office work done.:clap
Waking up in a basketball stadium to the sound of chirping birds was quite different, to be fair it is the biggest room we have had. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-17.jpg Size does matter, we had a 4 tier table and seating system and a stage which was just excessive :D, it rained earlier in the night so both Hobbit and Chiwi enjoyed the dry room. :rofl http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ros/file-4.jpg Packing took a new sequence of events too, something to make a bit of fun with our room. Take one exped pillow and place back in bag, tighten bag. Take one ortleib waterproof bag and place under basketball net. Throw ones exped pillow at hoop and hope... Aim http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-20.jpg Fire http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-21.jpg Net!:rofl http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-19.jpg Exped pillow, thrown correctly, nothin but net .. packed :D Our trip today was down the Mex 45, turn right to San Maria del Oro and through to Tepehuanes, arriving at San Maria del Oro we took a wrong turn or more to the point we didn't turn ... we went a further 15 km to San Bernardo which is kinda the end of the road ... damn!! We did stop for lunch along the way at a small worship place which was nice. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...uanes/file.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-17.jpg We asked for directions and headed back to San Maria del Oro, I spotted a KLR 650, an oldie, got talking to the dude and he said follow me, he promptly took us through the streets and showed us the road out which turned out to be 45 miles (75km) of concrete paved road....unreal condition like new. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nes/file-9.jpg Beautiful http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nes/file-6.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nes/file-4.jpg We arrived at Tepehuanes and found a hotel, we agree a price of 200 pesos, about an hour and a half later a lady with big boobs flagged me down in reception and started demanding money, I said but have already paid! but she would not have a bar of it, thankfully Ellen just arrived back so the chat/pubscrap was on. I got the lappy and Google translator helped a lot, one phone call to someone (obviously to the same person earlier) then that was it, pubscrap over all smiles and we were good so not entirely sure what happened there but we were not thrown out :evil In the village square there was brass band playing, the dudes where good, even the Police clad with machine guns were watching. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-13.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-12.jpg Bikes parked .. .should be ok there http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-19.jpg Tea was on the agenda as we were both hungry, we got one of these to start with between us. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-20.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-21.jpg Then some other english speaking guys asked if we still wanted the room .... WTF it was sorted.... apparently right hand does not talk with left hand, anyway all sorted in the end. That concludes today. |
Durango - 9th Most Dangerous City In The World
I think the article might have been from an American reporter.
Back to the trip..... Dr650 ... left outside in the cold :cry http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rango/file.jpg Breaky was some local burrito style of thing, we had run out of muesli and heading to the main centre we though we would eat out. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-10.jpg On leaving from Tepehuanes it was a nice ride through mounts with rock bluffs and interesting scenery. Exiting the hilly part we hit 20000 miles (32000km) on the speedo since leaving from Alaska. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ngo/file-1.jpg A place of worship on a HUGE rock http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-11.jpg Some spiral shaped building, quite cool really. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-12.jpg Straights greeted us for the rest of the ride into Durango so pretty uneventful except one driver who tried to bulldoze us off the road, the lady was yelling out in Spanish at us, we were only doing 90km/hr in a 40km/hr zone so we were obviously holding them up. I reciprocated with the finger for their good effort, they continued to weave in and out of the traffic ahead without making much progress, thus far they are the only nasty Mexicans we have met. Arriving in Durango one of the ten most dangerous cities in the world (9th) we found our accommodation with a small round the block trip with streets not quite being where they were supposed to, we had to stop and ask directions from some locals and after arm waiving and directions in Spanish we were on our way eventually getting to where we were meant to be. The previous night we had looked on Google Maps and Google Street View which was a great help as we then knew what we where looking for. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ngo/file-2.jpg Ulises and William were running late so had a gutter lunch with a bunch of local boys who were fascinated by our bikes, with big smiles they all had turns at sitting on the bikes which was well cool. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ngo/file-3.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ngo/file-6.jpg They even had a geography lesson on our RTW sticker http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ngo/file-4.jpg Ulises the owner and William a couchsurfer from the UK greeted us, we tried to fit the bikes into Ulises courtyard for safe keeping but the luggage despite being not very wide managed to not fit in by 10 mm, rather then remove the luggage a neighbour from down the street kindly offered her courtyard with plenty of room, we duly accepted this offer. It was decided that we would head into town for the later afternoon to the centro on the bus, that way we didn’t have to carry our riding gear which made it easier and didn’t have to ride in the traffic. There was a cafe strip which we noted, Ulises took us for a walking tour of beautiful buildings, churches, shops and stalls, at one of the stalls we bought a bottle of liqueur that was nectarine based flavoured and very sweet bordering on a sticky dessert wine so a real treat. Some shots of Durango centro http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-18.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-19.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-20.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-21.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-28.jpg Our impromptu tour took us underground to a mining museum under the city centre, this was very well done, from there we headed to the cable car for a night view of Durango only to find it was out of order....bit of a bumma. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-43.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-45.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-47.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-49.jpg Heavily finished detail on some of the buildings http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-58.jpg Rubbish and recycling http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-33.jpg It was decided that Tea time was the next plan as it was about 8.00pm, on the way up to the cable car we spotted a burger cart with wood smoke pouring out of the roof and the beautiful smells of cooking meat torturing our hunger sensors so there really was no choice. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-54.jpg On collecting our burgers we walked back into the town square sat down and had a feast we were supposed to have chilly corn on the cob however our monster burgers filled us all up. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-55.jpg The town was lit up beautifully with the lighting looking very cool. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-50.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-51.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-52.jpg Returning home we cracked open the Liqueur and had a few rounds, Ulises decided not have too many as he had an exam the next morning, actually it turned out to be the next next morning so he dipped out a bit there. With our day to be had in Durango Ellen and I headed back in centro for more of a look and to go back to the coffee shop we had spotted. I had a cappuccino which was the best I’ve had since leaving New Zealand, Ellens Americano was the same so pretty cool to have such a treat here in Mexico. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-56.jpg I had a gut cramp and thought it was the coffee assisting things but it turned out to be more than that, thankfully Mc Donalds was only 50 metres away and after two brisk visits there I decided the best looking shop to me was the Farmacia (Pharmacy) to by some stop cramp and bum binder.... perfecto!!! Ellen got an Icecream and I got some pills..... not fair. :cry Heading toward home we stopped in the supermarkedo for supplies for the next day on the road to Mazhatlan, the next mission was finding our way back home, we picked a bus and asked the driver and he gave us the thumbs up. Somewhere in the middle the translation was lost and he stopped outside and Ambulance station, I showed him our piece of paper with the name of where we wanted to go so he carried on, the lady behind him asked if she could have a look too, she discussed it with her mate and the guys behind and beside her so soon the whole bus was in on it. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-70.jpg The bus driver stopped and pointed down a street and everyone else on the bus concurred that we were in the correct place .... not bad for a bunch of dangerous people as it turned out they were all right so we found home base pretty easy. Ellen did her ride report and we took some more pics. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-64.jpg The alley in Ulises house. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-63.jpg The view from th top http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-66.jpg Last but not least Ulises doggy! http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...go/file-67.jpg When Ulli and William came home we all headed out for tea trying local food combinations, again the food was superb and very cheap costing around $10 New Zealand Dollars to feed three blokes and a chic. Not once did we feel threatened or have any dodgy dealings, I guess you can always find trouble if you want it but here in the centro there are woman and children out walking so I guess that says something. All in all Durango gets the big tick yet again from the people who make the place, thank you to Ulises for hosting us and William for being the translator. |
Once again a thoroughly entertaining blog !
In my travels rarely are the people you meet are A typical of others experiences.great you are having a interesting time.How's the sore foot?
photo's still of a high quality.Noel:D |
Thanks for the great journey log, I have been enjoying it. We are resident now in Caloundra, Qld.
Next month, we are going to start a 6 week (or so) tour of NZ, certainly passing through your home town (Wanaka?) I do not suppose that you will be home, Dec/Jan? My bike (HD Sportster) is already in Christchurch, but my wife's Sporty had to stay home and I have had to buy a 400 Honda for Jill, awaiting us in Gore. So: whether we meet or not, keep riding on! Rob and Jill Hall. |
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Again thanks for your comments, always very positive. Yeah everyones experiences are different and ours have been diverse so far in Mexico, some really outstanding and some not so good. Although we have travelled many third world places before riding them full time has added a new dimension to it and certainly the highs are higher but the lows are lower. We are in a difficult patch at the moment with Ellens foot and yesterday she had another bad binning on an off camber corner where a truck had lost its load and with her right foot injury biffed the bike further wrecking her and the bike. Time for a regroup and assess damage today. |
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Not likely we will be home unless in a coffin so either way we won't be able to help. Bit of a bumma as we would love to have had you guys stay, if you are going through Wanaka and want somewhere to stay let us know and we can probably hook you up with one of our dodgy bikie mates from The Wanaka Motorcycle Club, just let us know. If you time it right the third Wednesday of every month is the monthly meeting where they all meet for tea at a pub, usually slightly out of town during summer. |
Ellen may i say you are a true trooper!!
Sorry to hear you've had another spill ,maybe find a nice beach somewhere and take a break for a week or so.Noel:D
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Two Moto Kiwis Trip On Hold
Yesterday Sunday November the 25th Ellen had a huge off on the open road.
I report that she is ok after and ambulance ride, hospital visit and Xrays etc. She has suffered severe bruising and contusions to leg ankle, right bum cheek and down her back and around her neck, today she can hardly walk, all X rays came out ok. We are going to lay low for the next few days and formulate a plan B, needless to say this is very much a trip changing event. Couple of pics from yesterday. Love to all. http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...sh/file-10.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...sh/file-12.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...sh/file-27.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...sh/file-35.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...sh/file-41.jpg http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...sh/file-44.jpg |
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