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**Tiffany** · #16 4 Aug 2013

Leaving the salt pans behind, I make my way up a steep gravel track, naturally it's narrow and naturally (as I'm in Peru) there are pick-up trucks and vans coming the opposite way at silly speeds and some are just parked. I hold my nerve and keep to the edge, trying to avoid looking down the vertiginous drop - safety barriers??

Still in the Sacred Valley, I make a few friends

and get a bit closer

I feel that this is very brave for someone who once ran away from an anteater.
Along the road, I spot some of my group having a picnic break whilst enjoying the view, I stop to see what I can scrounge from them

Enjoying the hairpin bends, I take several over my shoulder random shots with my camera, often just getting a picture of my plaits flying behind me and if I'm lucky a fellow rider in the background. this photo shocked me...

I think those are a couple of grey hairs I can see in my plaits

and then we hit gridlock, we went past the trucks and cars to find this at the front

We resign ourselves to a wait

the truck driver is very sweet, he manages to reverse a bit, and once there's a small gap, waves us through

smiles all round, we're through

Until we realise that a pillion passenger has gone walkabout...I wait with her partner, and unfortunately we're rapidly swallowed up by the gridlock again

After a while, I come up with Plan B, which is remove the cases, carry them through (it's literally only 200 metres) and we'll then be able to squeeze between a couple of trucks

leave the cases somewhere safe

and then of course, everything started to move and we were scurrying back to the bikes, and trying to retrieve the cases as the other traffic went past.

We managed it, as usual, lots of smiles from those around us - I could just imagine them thinking you can always rely on those mad foreigners to provide entertainment.

the reason there's so much gridlock in this obscure village is easy to explain, it's the last stop on the Sacred Valley Railway before getting to this place, which needs no explanation (but which deserves a post to itself)

**Tiffany** · #17 4 Aug 2013

Possibly the most eagerly anticipated sight in South America- Lost City of the Incas...Macchu Pichu

We were staying in a village called Ollantaytambo, last train station on the track. We had an early morning start and wandered down to the station to see our train waiting. Almost all the tourists arriving at Macchu Pichu do so by train - it's still an isolated citadel perched on a mountain top, they have yet to put in a motorway!!!

Peru Railway's finest

Not wanting to miss any of the scenery

We had seats near the front and so had a great view

Sometimes, you don't always want a good view when you see this approaching and you know that it's a single track rail line...

There was seatside service

We got off the train, onto a bus, then climbed a hill, rounded the corner...

and there it was

It's been quite a few years since I last made it here - that was on foot after five days of walking and camping on my own. (Hmm, maybe I should see if I can find one of my old photos from that trip and scan it to reproduce here)

this time, I've got the group with me and things have been smartened up a bit.

My Dad upon seeing this next picture, enquired if I was in a Knobbly Knee Competition.

Lots of stone walls...

Llamas have been introduced,

but were a bit over-friendly at times

this shot would make a great caption competition

There's a small tropical garden area, where we were lucky enough to spot a hummingbird

Towards the end, I was getting a bit tired

A final goodbye from us all as we left this incredible place

**Tiffany** · #18 4 Aug 2013

Time to leave, we were booked on the last train out of the station so we headed down the hill to Aguas Calientes to get the train. We stopped for a drink, when suddenly there was a lot of noise out in the street. I stepped outside to see what was happening and this was the scene that met my eyes

A brightly dressed band and some bizarre dancers on the roof.

It got even more surreal on the train when the friendly host was replaced by this

and then the music started up and he was dancing and clapping along, and before we knew it a fashion show started in the train aisle.

This is all going to make British Rail seem very tame when I get back to England.

**Tiffany** · #19 4 Aug 2013

The following day found us saying goodbye to Ollantaytambo, I was suffering, oooh was I suffering, having somehow picked up food poisoning - yes, Miss Coates, Queen of the Iron Stomach was battling some nasty bacteria and oh dear the results were not pretty. You don't need photos, but I think you might get the picture when I say that I couldn't keep the Imodium (Lomotil) down to treat certain symptoms because I was vomiting so much. I warned my group, as I knew they would be following me along. lots of sympathy from them, sweeties that they are. The good news is that because I'm the only vegetarian I was the only one who got sick..dodgy quinoa dish.
I set off riding very gingerly. And of course it turned out to be one of those days when there are lots of bends and curves, luckily, focusing on my riding took my mind off the pain, vomiting and worse! I even managed to take a couple of pictures,

I was last to leave the hotel, and when I stopped at a police checkpoint 55kms down the road I asked the officers about the other bikes- only to be told that NO bikes had been through that morning. Oh great, not only am I feeling ill but now my whole group has got lost! I wasn't in a fit state to go looking- not sure where I'd start to look as the Andes mountains are a pretty big area!!

Finally my faster riders caught me up - with sheepish excuses about their lack of route finding.

Coming up is a picture of the rubbish-strewn layby that I... no, no, no actually I just really needed to pull over and ... sleep.
I'd been riding for several hours, feeling awful and having to really concentrate on my riding, not only was it cold and rainy but we were at altitude, attempting to overtake unpredictable lorries on twisty roads, crossing mountain passes. I was exhausted and knew I needed to sleep. I promised myself that as soon as the altitude had dropped to 3000m or less (about 10,000ft) AND the temperature had risen to 10 degrees, I would stop somewhere, anywhere.

It seemed to take forever as I kept glancing at the screen (on board computer!!) to check altitude and temperature, finally those magical figures were reached and I started to look around. eventually a layby appeared and I pulled over.

Minutes later one of my fellow riders came past, I gave him a thumbs up to let him know everything was OK and then as soon as he was out of sight, I pulled off my helmet, and lay down on the ground in full bike gear and thermal balaclava with my gloves tucked under my head, within minutes, despite the steady rain that was pouring I fell asleep. Not the deepest sleep in the world, I think a part of me was conscious of the vehicles going past on the road just feet away. But I slept for a good half hour, and woke up feeling refreshed just as the sound of GS engines were coming down the hill. I jumped to my feet and was able to smile and wave to them whilst rubbing my eyes and shaking the rain off me. The GS Dry suit proved its worth, I was still dry. I changed my balaclava for a dry one and was soon back on the road and catching them up.
Our hotel that night was a collection of cabanas beside a river, with its own chapel complete with, well, take a look for yourselves

I wasn't hallucinating, those ARE peacocks on the roof of the chapel.

The next day feeling better, I start looking around me a bit more.

As we'll be leaving the mountains soon, I'm wondering if I have space for some souvenirs in my tank bag...

**Tiffany** · #20 7 Aug 2013

Back to those mountain roads with llamas waiting at every sharp bend

The front riders had pulled up at a small restaurant perched on a mountain-side with several lorries out front. Inside it had a somewhat unusual décor

Notice the moth-eaten, bedraggled baby flamingo suspended from the ceiling

And then we peeked in the kitchen

Where's TheReaper? he can usually be relied upon to comment on all things health and safety in the catering departments.

Then look a bit more closely and you'll spot the eagle which appears to be supervising the culinary preparations

**Tiffany** · #21 7 Aug 2013

Back on the road, fuelling up

Tuk tuks everywhere we looked in some towns, this is something else that's relatively new over here.

Some great mountain roads that I was able to enjoy now that my sickness was well and truly past.

The landscape is starting to change

Cactus are lurking on every bend and the air has got drier. The temperature is rising, on this particular day it went from 2 degrees centigrade to 26 degrees.

In the distance a large shape was looming...Cerro Blanco, getting closer it's easier to make out that it's the tallest sand dune in the world.

I've travelled this road twice previously and both times didn't see the dune due to misty conditions.
I was waiting for my group to catch up and so decided to take a selfy with the dune in the background

The angle doesn't always come out right in a self-timed picture and you can barely see the dune. This was the best shot out of several that I tried (above), as you can see from the following sequence of shots.
after I press the self-time button and I'm scrambling to get onto the small rock in the foreground and smile nicely for the camera

Back up on the road and I'm there as the others rode past and I got photos as they cornered or slowed down

I took off after them, one of those days when the riding is just fantastic and everyone is grinning from ear to ear at the amazing surroundings, great twisty roads and lack of traffic.

**Tiffany** · #22 7 Aug 2013

That evening we were buzzing in the bar, it had been such an exhilarating ride on those great mountain roads, smooth tarmac, almost no traffic, dry conditions and great curves. We also had a birthday to celebrate

Peruvian Birthday Cake- - we went for large and Kevin the Geordie was delighted. We toasted him with wine and pisco sours.
We'd arrived in Nasca, a dusty desert town with a major draw for tourists...the incredible lines in the desert. Best viewed from the air, I've seen them before, so packed everyone off to the airport to go up in light aircraft.
They came back full of awe at the immense size of the designs and much talk was had about how they were created.
Errm, I didn't actually get the photos from the others of the lines, but I'm sure someone could find one and post it up here to show those who don't know, what I'm talking about.
Meanwhile, it has got very hot and as it's a rest day (once I'd done my paperwork) I grabbed a cold

and did what any sensible person would do

I retired to the pool and took part in another knobbly knee competition!!!

**Tiffany** · #23 10 Aug 2013

An early start found us bleary-eyed (or was that just the drinks from the night before?), in the hotel's rather rustic looking garage, getting the bikes out

The streets were quiet

as we headed out

The cactus on the edge of town standing sentinel

along a straight road

And into the desert itself

Where the waves of the Pacific wash up against the sand of the Nasca Desert

The early start had given us some respite from the intense heat and also meant the desert itself looked beautiful in the early light soon after dawn. We were headed south with the Pacific Ocean on our right.
Further on, the road started climbing

As we approached a series of incredible cliffs with a great road carved into the side, hundreds of feet above the ocean. In a motorcyclist's life a great road is one with curves, smooth tarmac and little other traffic.

We caught up with each other at various viewpoints

**Tiffany** · #24 11 Aug 2013

taking the coast road from Nasca to Arequipa

It takes all sorts to take part in a journey like this, and a weird sense of humour always helps

having been in the deserts, salt lake and mountains for quite a while we were making the most of every opportunity to get photos of our bikes with the sea in the background

some great curves

A friendly fuel stop

which stretched out to be an impromptu picnic lunch stop as more arrived

and the name of the garage...

yep
Virgen del Buen Paso
which has a number of translations, including the Good Step Virgin or the Virgin of the Good Way. Take your pick, it certainly makes a change from Shell or Esso.

**Noel900r** · #25 11 Aug 2013

Tiffany some wonderful photo's,and great commentary ,so how does the tour thing work do you say "this is where you are tonight this is where you should be,this is the road you need to take to get there?"I know that riding with groups can be a sort out ,as there are old fossel's like me with 35years riding behind them and new chums who some times worry me.Thanks again Noel.

**Tiffany** · #26 13 Aug 2013

The dry and desolate cliff roads were occasionally punctuated by lush green valleys where various rivers had cut through the landscape. Every inch of the valley floor was cultivated to make the most of the water - a scarcity in this arid part of the continent.

A vivid splash of colour. We would descend down to the valley floor, cross over the river on a bridge and then go up the other side, heading south throughout.

Finally in the distance, we saw this welcome sight

No, not the bus

the volcano beyond it

another one that I was assured is not currently active, it's called Misti (Putina) and last erupted in 1985, hmm, not actually extinct then in my reckoning.

**Tiffany** · #27 13 Aug 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r

Tiffany some wonderful photo's,and great commentary ,so how does the tour thing work do you say "this is where you are tonight this is where you should be,this is the road you need to take to get there?"I know that riding with groups can be a sort out ,as there are old fossel's like me with 35years riding behind them and new chums who some times worry me.Thanks again Noel.

Hi Noel
I'm pleased to hear you're enjoying this chapter of my travelling life, and I know there are often questions about riding with a company, there are a lot of HUBBers who have experienced a tour with a company and would not have it any other way, making the most of the vast experience and resources of an established operator who has put in the years of preparation and research.
The various tour companies operate in quite different ways. GlobeBusters and World of BMW, whom I did this particular trip with have quite a distinct way of working. Ride your own ride, you are not expected to ride as a group at all, you can choose your own departure time each morning and where you want to stop during the day for meals, photo stops, looking at ruins, landscapes and villages etc.
As you've suggested above, for each day the riders have all the information given to them in advance such as the hotel details and address, waypoint for GPS and also route notes which reflect the best way of getting there, taking in good riding routes and interesting points along the way. In this way, each person can ride at their own pace to reach that day's destination whether it's Samarkand, Nairobi or Everest Base Camp.

Within the group most riders find kindred spirits to ride with, such as those who share a similar riding style and speed. As you've mentioned, there are lots of different riding styles, generally the group will ride in twos and threes with the occasional lone wolf who joins in for lunch stops etc. It''s easy enough to spot fellow travellers' bikes parked at a hacienda, tea shop or street-side food stand and pull up to join them.
Naturally there is also the option of riding with me

or whoever the guide/s may be, a chance to ride and see the roads through our eyes and with our experience, the opportunity to take advantage of the best spot to get a picture of you and your bike with a spectacular mountain in the background, rounding the steepest of curves, spotting the first yaks of the expedition, the quirkiest of eating places etc.
It's pretty much take your pick of how you ride each day.

I know that not all companies operate in this way, it's a good issue to ask about in advance. I hope this has answered your question, feel free to ask anything else you're curious about.

**Tiffany** · #28 19 Aug 2013

We'd ridden a long way that day along the coastal road and finally with Misti Volcano in our sights we had arrived at the legendary city of Arequipa - the White City. We'd battled through the traffic, roadworks and general chaos to find our hotel.
And then there was one more job for me to do...
One of my tasks as guide is finding suitable secure parking - oh yes, it's not just Thelma to worry about, on a trip like this 10 top notch BMW bikes need a bit more security than my 22 year old warhorse.
I find an enclosed parking area, negotiate with the attendant - they enjoy the fact that
a) despite all these blokes, a woman is negotiating
b) my Brit accent when speaking in Spanish
they're not so fond of my keen nose for a bargain, after so many years of travelling on a miniscule budget, I don't go for soft deals.

Then I direct and help get the bikes squeezed into the smallest area possible, in some of these towns, space is at a premium and we have to pack the bikes in quite tightly.

Bikes parked and safe, I headed back to the hotel where the group were already relaxing over a few

s

They had taken over the hotel reception area (and what an amazing hotel)

Bike gear everywhere, we sat back and shared ride tales and photos from the day

As the sun finished setting, I took some photos from the hotel rooftop terrace before heading out for dinner

The volcano looks peaceful enough so maybe we won't be woken by a midnight eruption.

The restaurant was great, it's a carnivore's paradise, numerous different types of meat are served on red hot griddles that are spitting hot fat so they dished out bibs for all.

Ostrich, llama, alpaca and other exotic meats were on offer, as the meat eaters tucked in,

I was actually enjoying one of the finest meals I'd had this whole trip, yep, the meaty place did good veggie food as well

**Tiffany** · #29 19 Aug 2013

Early morning Arequipa and all is peaceful. Which is good as we have a complicated route through the one way system to negotiate and sometimes it's just a lot simpler to go down the wrong way...simpler?? sometimes it's impossible to find your destination without doing something like that

These colonial places seem to share an aversion to tarmac.

Out of town, not a cloud in the sky, so a good day for riding, we head up some steep hills
I enjoy looking at the graphics that are used on signs in other countries

On this one, the car reminds me of the Anthill Mob car in the Wacky Races cartoon

Crossing the desert that surrounds Arequipa, we see more of these shanty towns, ramshackle huts scattered in small settlements on the dry earth.

Again we see the importance of the small rivers that flow here, they are the only source of greenery. Approaching this river valley there is also a splash of colour on the ground

Something is scattered, drying in the sun

Even this close, I'm still not sure what it is...maybe chillies?

**Noel900r** · #30 19 Aug 2013

The Players in "Perils": The Ant Hill Mob - YouTube
Tiffany thanks for taking the time to give such a detailed explanation ,I think if i was on a trip as such that would be my preferred option.

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