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Laos on a Lifan
I spent couple of days in Houay Xai there is not a whole lot to do there, I did find one Gem and old French fort (Fort Carnot) which I was able to get into and have a look around, for me the gun room was magic along with the views from the look out posts. It seems like there is a restoration job going on but nobody seemed to know about it.
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-G6VxfcB-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-ZbpmgHS-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-9NKmhRz-L.jpg The Views over the border to Thailand. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-VGCnTN3-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-PvDRnFS-L.jpg It's a beautiful day. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-RMgvxCR-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-N4S7vLk-L.jpg The Gun room. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-KGNZc8P-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-ZbVLzbz-L.jpg Some great toys! http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-7gjQbWm-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-tjRQ3RZ-L.jpg I could spend all day in here, some of this stuff was really old, makes you wonder what went on in here? http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-HzQf8bq-L.jpg Boys and their toys. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-zJ78GXD-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-8PP86RM-L.jpg It had been a good day, I love the war stuff. I headed back to my Hotel to prepare for the off tomorrow. Saturday morning came and I got an early start to head of to Luang Nam Tha, I decided to go the long way which would take me up near the borders of Myanmar and China about 200 k's of Jungle tracks and mountain tops with a couple of river crossings thrown in, nothing to hard. Once I was off the main road this was the scene... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-Q4zb9Tm-L.jpg Nobody about, got the place to myself. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-sg8tvSG-L.jpg On my route I was able to visit another Lima site, LS1 nothing really to see but my imagination fills in the blanks, it's in there somewhere. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-DTdkJTx-L.jpg I plodded on for a few more hrs and then I hit the jungle, the trails where undulating and great fun to ride. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-NH397w8-L.jpg This a a blast, nobody around. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-k4M7fJG-L.jpg Only a few river crossing and no wet feet, I was having a ball. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-hvDGVh3-L.jpg There was a few boggy bits and one of them caught me out and threw me of fortunately my back pack got caught in the handle bars and I did not end up going down a steep slope, however something in the bushes was a bit upset with me coming crashing through his house and bit me, never had a reaction to a bite like that before, my forearm is swollen and there's a lot of heat and itching, other than that I'm fine. The bike didn't come of so well, bent handle bars and mangled gear lever both need replacing. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-ndVTzw8-L.jpg Good job I didn't go down there. :helpsmilie: http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-zZkmSmF-L.jpg I straightened the lever out best I could and decided to have lunch, by now my arm was swelling a bit, later it got a lot worse. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-zCDTGFj-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-SfdFCwP-L.jpg After my off I had Banana sandwiches for Lunch you can buy bread here, guess we can thank the French for that.. The scenery is stunning and remote is the word lots Banana plantations and nobody around, peaceful just me and the bike. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-6f4f7bK-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-kRnFW4R-L.jpg On one section I found this guy broken down, he had the whole engine apart with the big bearings had gone, makes you appreciate the AA nothing of the sort here your on your own, I wished him luck and pressed on. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-6RzH3b8-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-ZvjSjS5-L.jpg He had made camp, guess he was going to be there a while. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-zTLmr7d-L.jpg That's some fix in the jungle. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-4LGKwkG-L.jpg Some more great views. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-DpmpXFf-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-kRnFW4R-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-mqDKtFk-L.jpg Arriving at Luang Nam Tha about 5 Pm it had been a 10hr 200k ride and I was ready for a rest, found a Hotel got cleaned up and went for dinner, steak with blue cheese cost me more than the hotel but was worth it along with a couple of beers. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-F9F7wdQ-L.jpg Wifi didn't work...Damn!.:oops2: http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-6ctrwHZ-L.jpg I went back to my room and sorted all my kit ready for the next day which would be an easy day after today, so a little lay in would be in order and I fell asleep watching TV, a great day....::funmeteryes: |
THX for the report, did the same tour some month ago... we love Laos and have to go back one day...
cheers Sascha |
Newby here. Been lurking for ages, and this thread has persuaded me to join up.
Hi, Steve Canyon. I've been to Laos a few times, and crossed into Hauy Xai a few times. First time was around 2002. I think its changed a little since then. I've never seen that french fort, never explored the place much. I cant help thinking that those weapons you found were someones arms cache......... I'm think you mention it somewhere, but have a good read up on the secret war in Laos. The Ravens is an excellent introduction to it. Its still a very sore point with the Umong, and the political situation in places can become a little tense, although I've never heard of a traveler getting caught up in it. Have a good time, its a fascinating country. Take a look at the Plane of Jars if you can, I've missed it every time I've been there. Will make it back one day. Will be watching this thread with interest. Safe travels. |
Yes Chris - or Steve canyon [?!] - please keep the reports coming. We’ll be there, crossing from Thailand into Laos, almost certainly via Chiang Khong <~~> Huay Xai, in January next year .. just two months away now.
Safe travels mate .. :mchappy: KEITH |
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I'll be in Laos for 6 months so drop me a line and we can hook up.....I have all the GPS tracks if you want, if not contact Laos GPS Map - Driven by Adventure - Highly detailed GPS Maps of Laos this guy has mapped the area for the last 11 years and has a GPS map that has more detail than any other, his name is Don and he's a helpful chap..:thumbup1: |
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c u somewhere again... Quote:
Laos we will be back! soon or later... |
The road to Luang Prabang
Sunday morning and I'm having a late start as it looks to be a tarmac day so it should be straight forward, I left around 10am and the ride took me on some nice twisty tarmac with great views.
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-RvR2tBZ-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-nmVvMGR-L.jpg No rush on so I can enjoy the scenery. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-5B3qZfz-L.jpg This is a great plate, made me laugh, I using a drift camera but still getting the hang of it. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-N9Z5w3T-M.jpg It's a pretty boring ride, be a lot more fun a big bike, stopped of for lunch at a roadside vendor and amused the kids for a bit. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-4tKTGNZ-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/phot...-KDQD6HL-L.jpg Time to get back on the road, soon the twisty flat tarmac turned into a bone shaking broken, dusty nightmare, this is by far the worst road I have ever encountered I will upload more pictures from my drift when I can get them uploaded. You know it's funny how some days turn out I thought this would be a easy route, if I had known what I know now I would have gone a different way. I met some guys from London who where on push bikes, I thought I was mad. :helpsmilie: I ended up in Luang prabang about 7pm and found a the first Hotel I could find with working wifi I was exhausted. My sting at this point was making my arm swell up and was spreading down toward my hand so I went to the chemist and got some different cream, eat some noodles and flaked out. A long boring tiring day, I plan to stay in Lp for a few days to recover and have a look around. |
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I’ve already downloaded the appropriate Thai/Laos/Cambodian tiles from OpenStreetMap. Thanks for the offer of tracks; I’ll certainly look into Don’s GPS maps too. Quote:
Cheers Keith [& Ellen] |
Gday, sorruy to have missed you
I have been at the Dokchampa Hotel, Luang Namtha for over a week now waiting for a spare part to arrive for my Vstrom, would have been great to catch up I am in Chiang Rai tonight, got my part and will be heading to Luang Prbang in a few days. I am a bit nervous about that section of road, I have heard it is crap, but yours is more up todate, do you reckon a big heavy dual sport will handle it OK Cheers TS |
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I just installed my part, the bike starts, but I am only 99% confident :) I will do a day ride for a test up to the border today, then start my way down tomorrow(assuming the bike passes the test). I will probably be in Luang Probang for the weekend, then head south Monday to VV, taking a detour to Phonsevan, then back up and head south to Vientiene Or something like that :) |
Catching up
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Let me know your plans.....bier |
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I will be going to Nuang Prabang over the weekend, then south to VV, but a detour to Phonasavan is probably going to happen, then south to VT It will take me another week to get there by the sounds of it and that is not set in stone You are ahead by a few days, so we shall see what happens, ride safe Cheers TS |
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The Road to Vang Viang
I spent 5 days in Luang Prabang some of it meeting up with people and some of it resting up, last year I was non-stop riding and the fatigue was too much so this time I'm taking it easy, I had a good look around town but my favorites where the Mines Advisory Group MAG and the Tardsae Waterfall.
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010786-L.jpg The UXO center run by MAG has a big display of all the different types of munitions used on Laos in the secret war, the bombing figures are mind bending and hard to get your head around especially because not many people know of the war. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010747-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010750-L.jpg Nou was my guide and showed me around. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010782-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010783-L.jpg An interesting afternoon, didn't know bombs came in so many different shapes and sizes, but the worst has to be the Anti-personnel mines Bombies as the locals call them and their still going of today. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010772-L.jpg The children think they are toys and when the find them they start chucking them around, I'm sure you can work out the rest. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010761-L.jpg That's a big bomb. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010777-L.jpg More on MAG as the trip goes on. I got the bike's oil changed and decided to go and have a poke around outside town, found this great bamboo bridge. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010852-L.jpg I saw a sign for a waterfall so I thought I would have a look so I parked up and walked down to the river, on the way down I bought some Bananas when I turned round this dude was there.....made me jump. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010855-L.jpg They are so quiet on the move, beautiful beast. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010858-L.jpg Went down to river and got my ticket. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010863-L.jpg All the locals where pulling a heavy steel cable down to the river, I thought it was a scrap find. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010866-L.jpg Jumped on my boat and headed down the river, it was a nice cooling trip and very peaceful. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010869-L.jpg When I arrived it was busy, Elephants and Waterfalls everywhere, the falls look man made but they say they are natural, wish I had bought my trunks. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010875-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010878-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010881-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010886-L.jpg Back to the bike for me. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010889-L.jpg When I got back to the bike I realized what the cable was for, but what they where pulling I had no idea, so I waited around to watch. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010897-L.jpg What a monster, makes the Elephant look small, big Russian V8 6X6 http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010899-L.jpg They were pulling logs out of the river, how they found them I will never know the water is not so clear, locals ready with the chain saw. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010894-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010908-L.jpg I've seen enough and headed back to the Hotel, on the way back I saw these guys who looked like they were having problems, meet Chris and David from Australia http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010909-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010915-L.jpg The local Mechanic was having problems. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010913-L.jpg I got involved and we were running in 20 mins, water in the plug cap which is no surprise as they had dropped the bike in the river what a day and night they had had. They invited me up for dinner as a thank you, lots of beer and a late night thanks guys I really enjoyed your company. The next day I was getting ready for the of to Vang Viang, I had chosen a route that would take me past a Ls25 Phou Chai and old Lima site, so bright and early I set of down routes 13 and then took a small dirt track towards route 4 Via Muang Name, it's a fantastic route with dirt most of the way. I have this all on video and will try to get it edited when I can, this how my day looked as I headed for the mountains. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010920-L.jpg Another beautiful day. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010924-L.jpg 190k's of dirt and mind blowing scenery. Soon I was up in the clouds with very few people about. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010925-L.jpg The views where stunning, not much more I can say about this route other than if your in Laos you best come ride it. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010960-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010963-L.jpg It just got better and better, at 2000 meters it was amazing, so I stopped for lunch to take it in. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010951-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010956-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010964-L.jpg That's Ls 25 in the distance where the buildings are, I rode up there but the gate was locked. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010959-L.jpg It was great going up but coming down was just as good especially with the smooth Tarmac.They are working on this road so soon it will be Tarmac most of the way. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010965-L.jpg Just a magic day riding, time to find a hotel and sort a few bits on the bike out!. |
Steve a very informative blog.
Laos is not really ever been on my radar to look at ,i must say you are influencing me to take a look at it.great photo's.Noel:D
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Laos is a Biking Heaven..
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It's a Beautiful place, Friendly people,great food and wonderful trails... It's also quiet cheap........bier |
Where exactly was that MAG centre? I have been to the one in Phonsavan, but it has nothing like what you saw?
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We will go back 100%! C U in Laos somewhere sometime… Cheers Kerstin and Sascha |
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Vang Viang and beyond
Sorry for the delay but the internet has not been to kind to me in Laos, all night to upload 50 pictures and I have 100's.
I arrived here quiet early after a pretty uneventful ride but the plan was to get here as quickly as possible, so not much to see in the one stop I made, this young lady spoke great English and we spent some time chatting. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010969-L.jpg I rode into town and spotted this Hotel 130,000 kip for a brand new room with all the mod cons very nice to. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010975-L.jpg After check in it was time to have a look at the bike, I was thinking the Chinese had used elastic to make the chain as I only adjusted it a couple of days ago, I had thought at the time that the bolt seemed a bit suspect so I decided to remove the nut and check it...Oh dear http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010990-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010986-L.jpg The guys must have cross threaded it when they changed the wheels, I'm in the crap now. I went for a wander around town and found a little engineering shop and asked the guy to do a repair for me, 20,000 kip later I have a new thread and nut, the nut was a bit small but I'm back on the road. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010989-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010991-L.jpg check out the new addition to the tool box, beer Laos better than WD40.... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010992-L.jpg My mate in Chaing Mai Hass has ordered me another and will post it to Vientiane in the next few days, disaster averted I decide to go and check out the party town of Vang Viang. To my surprise it was very quiet as they have had a lot of problems with people doing crazy things on drugs and drink so the police have shut a lot of it down, they do have some nice views though. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010999-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010995-L.jpg All this is built next to an old run way, I have no idea when it was decommissioned. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010973-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010976-L.jpg So it's another early night and up early in the morning to get to Vientiane which was another pretty uneventful ride. I checked into the Villa Laos where I had a pal staying, a nice quiet place for 130,000 kip a night, little out of town but no problem on the bike. It was nice to catch up with Don and his wife and we drunk a few bottle of wine and had some food, very nice evening, the next say was back to fixing the bike as the front suspension kept bottoming out and I want to change the rear shock, so bright an early i get up and head down to Fuark's garage to see what can be done, meet Fuark. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020019-L.jpg He's a pretty cool guy who suggested a fork oil change, but no shock.Lots of guys riding around the worls also turned up to fix there bike, fuark will let you use his premise and tools to fix your bike, as well as supplying the parts, if you get stuck in Laos he's your man. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020017-L.jpg Both these guys where on round the world trips, Natco and Julian. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020025-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020024-L.jpg Nice to meet you guys, the Lifan got some new fork oil and I removed the cat in the quest for more power, small improvement but every little helps. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020020-L.jpg turns out that they put to much oil in the forks so over the next few days I drained a bit at a time until I got what I wanted from the front, I'm a little happier, as for the back I need a new shock. I decided to stick around for a few days as the Aussies Chris & Dave had called me to say they where on the way down and wanted to go riding and would I wait for them, of course fellas. We hooked up the next evening and went on a bit of a bender, turns out Chris can sing real good and Dave can drink to match him we managed to get most of the bar singing American Pie, a great night with a head to match the next day. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020027-L.jpg The night market is a must. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020033-L.jpg Just when I thought it could not get any better they called me to say they had a spare room in their 400$ a night Hotel, hell I was there in a flash and very nice it was to, the Green Park Hotel VTE. We decided on a easy evening as we were going to get up early and head down to Thaket so we could ride the Ho Chi Minh Trail, well a part of it the guys were pumped and looking for wad to getting there but you know how it goes with a group to much messing around and the schedule was shot before we left so I planned a little detour.M Kamkuet and we would find a Hotel down there for the night. It had been a boring ride apart from Chris getting rear ended and hitting me after an old lady just walked out in front of me, damn Chris was real lucky, no real damage, we stopped for a while so Chris could collect his thoughts. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020056-L.jpg David thinking what could have been, a lucky escape and a good reason to keep alert in Laos. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020057-L.jpg We pushed on and we found this Gem, a reward for a hard days ride, the Limestone forest, another wonder of Laos. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020067-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020069-L.jpg Another Jaw dropping view. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020063-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020071-L.jpg That sort of view keep me going for a long time and we still had a way to go, I spotted a sign for a resort and asked the boys if they wanted to stop and it was a yes. It turned out a hard place to find but when we got there we were impressed, it's an Oasis in a beautiful setting and only 130,000 kip a night!!!. The main restaurant area. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020086-L.jpg The accommodation comes in the shape of Bungalows all with TV,Aircon,Hot showers and a view to die for, we were so happy it was better than the 400$ a night place. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020083-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020101-L.jpg I could stay at this place for Months so quiet and the real feeling of village life, we went up to the main building and ordered some food and to our surprise it was magnificent, some of the best food we had had on the trip so far we ordered lots of dishes Laos and European and it was all first class, we dined like kings and washed it down with beer Laos. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020105-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020120-L.jpg Make sure you visit. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020110-L.jpg Later on the owner came over and introduced himself. Mr Vongsamay Malibayphit very nice chap who had a wonderful story to tell, he had grown up in Savannakhet during the war and had been unable to go to school because of the bombing, he said if you didn't see the blast's you feel them!. He later got the chance to go to Cuba to get an education and spent 7 years there in school, when he returned he worked hard and saved his money and got the land to build his Hotel and live his dream, he also gives a lot back to his community working with the disabled and supplying school uniforms and other educational equipment to the local schools, great man. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020132-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020143-L.jpg Well we dined on into the evening and retired at a reasonable hour as tomorrow would be another big day down the route one which I'm told is a bit nasty with lots of broken tarmac and dust. Once again the morning was lost in riding terms, I had got up at 5.30 to catch the sun rise, a beautiful morning. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020181-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020188-L.jpg The clouds falling down the mountain. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020192-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020193-L.jpg By 11Am I knew we would not make our destination by night fall to much messing around choosing underwear etc so we went to explore some caves instead and then go to Thaket and get closer to the Trails. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020213-L.jpg Big Chris broke the steps on the way up, whoops http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020227-L.jpg Used to shelter from the bombing, lots of effort went into them, almost shrine like. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020221-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020225-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020230-L.jpg We went up to the house on the top to pay for the damage but they did not seem to understand but took the money, I guess they went and got some steak instead of these. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020200-L.jpg I'm sure the locals think we are mad! http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020198-L.jpg Back on the road again the boys have charged of on their high powered KLX's leaving me behind so I'm going to get some photos and take my time .... still lots of UXO in Laos. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020237-L.jpg Great views. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020245-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020239-L.jpg And the children always have a smile. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020242-L.jpg I like these views up the river into the jungle, my imagination just runs wild. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020247-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020250-L.jpg The children were very friendly and not scared of the power ranger even letting me take a few shots, why are the children so happy over here? http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020252-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020254-L.jpg More great views along the way. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020256-L.jpg The guys were waiting for me here, a few photos and of to Thaket http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020263-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020257-L.jpg We arrived in Thaket about 7 pm the roads here at night are very dangerous and I was happy to follow the boys lights into town, there is also some big things flying around at night that hit you like bullets, I rode last year at night and said never again, I'm not doing it again and people ride with no lights on the wrong side of the rode as well as having cows walking about......danger. We pulled into a new hotel called Vannida Hotel 130,000 kip a night, clean and tidy. I always find Thaket a hard place to be in so this Hotel was nice, we ate Vietnamese food which was really nice and got to bed early as we were going to have an early start this was the boys last chance to ride the Ho Chi Minh Trail before they had to leave for Thailand. Time to upload some more pictures...more tomorrow. |
Nice report !!
Did you rent the Lifan ? If so, where did you rent it ? |
Thanks for persisting with the internet.
Enjoying reading your blog ,but the photo's bring your words to life.Noel:D
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lifan
Quote:
No I bought it in Chaing Mai Thailand, 55,000 Bt with all the extra bits like wheels & tyres, bark busters, sump guard and back rack.... I have a spare one if you want it...:D Ps, I got your message, give me little time and I'll sort it out for you..:D |
The pictures
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Ah, I see, well I am heading south, so will miss out Never mind |
MAG
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Just in case you decide to go that way.... N 19 52 54.7 E 102 08 11.9 Safe riding.. |
I was in Thaket about 10 years ago on a Swedish funded road project, I stayed in a depressingly russian looking hotel, right on the river, but just loved the place, there used to be a restaurant on a boat that was amazing, and cheap, went back a second time, and still loved it, one day I will visit on a bike, it must be amazing. some great memories and good friends made.
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Thaket
Quote:
You better come back and finish the roads though......bier |
The Ho Chi Minh Trail
I got the boys up real early and we were on the road by 6.30 AM another beautiful morning in the making.
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020273-L.jpg Heading East from Thakhek it's about 60k's to the first stop of the day for breakfast and a quick look at an old SAM missile. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020274-L.jpg After our morning feed it's back on the road for another 30k's passed a bombed out bridge and then we turn right of onto the trails. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020286-L.jpg The Guys are really pumped about doing this part of the trail, the guy they hired the bikes of told them to stay away as they don't have the experience required to take it on, my thought where that I had done it solo last year and it was my first trail riding experience so if we stick together and take our time all will be fine. Last year Laos had had a really long rainy season so it was muddy and wet, this year it was dry as a bone and the dust was thick. I set of and told them to give me a few minutes to let the dust settle and that they should do like wise or choke on the dust, if I was making a turn I would wait for them. This section of trail is about 30k's and brings you back out near the Mu Gai pass a nice little trail with no river crossings. It was so much easier than last year, the river beds were dry and there was only a few rocky sections. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020289-L.jpg This is what I came for I'm not really interested in the tourist spots so I'm in my element just plodding along and keeping upright, after a while I stop to wait for Chris&David. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020290-L.jpg No problems apart from the dust we are having a ball so we press on. When I arrive at the next village which signals the end of that trail I pull over and wait again, it's a great spot. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020294-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020293-L.jpg Time for a rest and a cool down. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020297-L.jpg Village life, so peaceful http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020298-L.jpg After about 20 mins I'm wondering where they are eventually they turn up smothered in dust, Dave had had a small of but he was fine, infarct he was delighted to have taken a tumble on the trail and lived to tell the tale. after a little break we head of again there is a couple of places I want to show them, one is an old choke point and the other is a small field of bomb craters, then onto a village to try and find some war scrap which was gone but it did turn up this little river crossing. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020300-L.jpg The local were enjoying the sun playing in the river, wish we joined them as the midday sun was very hot. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020305-L.jpg The boys crossing the bridge on the way out. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020303-L.jpg Time to leave the trail and find a lunch stop up near the pass, on the way we met a MAG team so we stopped to talk as this is part of the reason I'm here. Meet Dalawang she was in charge of this site which we could not walk down to. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020311-L.jpg The rest of the team where having a lunch break, look like they were laying cables to detonate what ever they had found. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020306-L.jpg A few pictures with the boss. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020314-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020317-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020309-L.jpg The bombing stats for Laos are incredible, it's hard to get your head around them especially as the war was in Vietnam!! Lao PDR is the most heavily bombed country, per capita, in history Approximately 25% of villages in Laos are contaminated with Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) More than 580,000 bombing missions were conducted over Laos Over 2 million tons of ordnance were dropped on Laos between 1964 and 1973 Cluster sub munitions or ‘Bombies’ (as they are known locally) are the most common form of UXO remaining More than 270 million bombies were dropped onto Laos Up to 30% failed to detonate Approximately 80 million unexploded bombies remained in Laos after the war All 17 provinces of Laos suffer from UXO contamination 41 out of the 46 poorest districts in Laos have UXO contamination Over 50,000 people have been killed or injured as a result of UXO accidents in the period 1964 -2008 Over 20,000 people have been killed or injured as a result of UXO accidents post war period, 1974-2008 UXO Lao works in the nine most heavily UXO contaminated provinces in the country. UXO Lao needs on an average, US$6.5 million, for operations. It employs over 1,000 people We said our goodbyes and headed of for lunch, we were all very hot and dusty. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020313-L.jpg A very happy but hot Chris http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020318-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020319-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020329-L.jpg After lunch we headed for the Mu Gia pass to check out the views over Vietnam at the customs point. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020321-L.jpg The boys arriving at the summit. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020328-L.jpg It had been a great day and the boys were happy to have ridden a price of History, both vowing to return next year for more, we blasted back to Thakhek and enjoyed the last evening together before the boys went to Thailand, we ended up having chips for tea as that was all we could really find, a tiring but great day. I enjoyed your company boys, the twist was I ended up going back to Thailand as well to sort the bike and myself out, just waiting on some paper work and I'm heading back to Laos...:D |
whoops
doh
Sorry guys I posted the same day twice, I have amended page 2 to the proper day, I got to slow down...:oops2: It looks a bit like this.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1010956-L.jpg Once again apologies.. |
Ban Laboy Ford
It's been a while since an update but for various reasons but today I have time so here it is, I arrived back in Thailand around the 25th Nov a bit earlier than I expected but an old friend had arrived earlier than expected and was keen to get things moving. I jumped on a plane and flew up to Chaing Mai to check out a Hotel my friend is looking at buying, I'm not a Hotelier all I know about Hotels is that people pay to stay there and generally moan about something after, but as it's going to be on a biking theme he thought I might have some input which would help.
After a few days in CM it was time for me to get back to Laos, unfortunately the paper work I required took longer than expected, I should have known better as everything in Thailand takes longer so the best thing to do is add a day and then double it and then start planning from there, I got my papers on the 1st Dec and planned my escape leaving first light on the 3rd my destination was Ban Laboy Ford the most bombed piece of real estate in the world to date. It had taken me 2 years to get there last year 2 attempts were abandoned airing on the side of caution so this time I would ensure it all went to plan, I rode 1500k's in 6 days over the hardest terrain I had ever encountered dawn till dusk most days lots of blisters and lots of pain but I made it...... Monday 3rd December 2012 and this is how my day looked out of my back door. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...020601_2-L.jpg I had gotten the bike ready the evening before, I'm travelling really light this time the bare minimum, that means no razor and 1 change of clothes, survival kit and spares for the bike which I had serviced prior to leaving, no route was planned just get down there with a little tarmac as possible. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020605-L.jpg I headed up Nong Khai border crossing which is about 160k's from my House arriving there about 10am, it was very busy. This would turn out to be a real pain in the backside, 4 hrs I took me due to paper work and other issues which would raise their heads on the Laos side of the border. I was taken aside and asked what my plans where and who was travelling in the group, what group? I'm on my own. Soon it became clear to them that they had the wrong end of the stick and gave me a big apology for wasting my time, when I asked them why they stopped I was stunned....more about that later!. So I'm over the fence and into Laos but my day is ruined so the best thing I can do is get the bike pinned and try to make up time on the Tarmac, I made it down to Pakxan and found a hotel for the night got some food and relaxed so I could be ready for the morning, lots of Vietnamese in this town. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020609-L.jpg Tuesday 4th Dec. Up bright a early and I'm heading south toward route 12, then I will turn of the highway on to the dirt, which started like this, fast gravel... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020611-L.jpg Then it turned into the hard packed mud with big pot holes and surface to rattle your fillings. So I was glad to stop and talk with the MAG guys. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020616-L.jpg One of the ladies was pregnant but still working hard. Guess that's the next generation of De-miners. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020619-L.jpg Time to press on, this road was hell with no rest from the pot holes,dust and bone shaking holes which seemed never ending, the dust from the oncoming traffic was like fog and I often found myself stopping, so when I saw this little place I thought it would be nice place for lunch. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020621-L.jpg I had the normal lunch which consisted of tinned fish and sweet things washed down with water. The guys in the truck stopped and watched me for a while, I suppose they think who's the loony! http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020622-L.jpg After a while a little girl appeared from out of the bushes and came over, "Hello Mr", she spoke good English and asked me the usual round of questions, I asked her if I could have a picture and she hopped up onto the bike immediately. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020623-L.jpg She then insisted on taking me picture before wishing me good luck, what a lovely young lady I wish her well too. Back to the trails. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020642-L.jpg My Aim was to get to Villabouri for the night as this would get me very close to the Target, although it was a hard trail the views keep you going. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020644-L.jpg The Lifan was taking a real pounding and so was I, so rest stops became more frequent. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020647-L.jpg This little shop was another good stop, friendly people. The little lady was impressed with my camel pack which made her laugh heartily. Mum was enjoying having her picture taken and I was happy to cool down and watch the children play. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020651-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020649-L.jpg Time to hit the road again as I get closer the trails start becoming remote all the trails here are part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail net work and I start to recognize things from last year. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020656-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020655-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020659-L.jpg This bridge has improved a lot from last year. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020657-L.jpg I'm starting to loose the light so no more pictures, but soon I come out on a trail I was on last year I will never forget mud up to the axles, rivers and nasty rocks, the light Lifan made easy work of them and soon I was on a new graded section, it's true the trail is being covered over and electricity is coming to town, last year this section took me hrs this year I'm blasting along at 60k's hr arriving at the same hotel I stayed in last year, even got the same chalet...4.a good omen?, or a bad one, guess tomorrow will tell, so its food early to bed and bags ready for the of , I will stay here 2 night so the trip to the ford is done with as little gear as possible, survival and spares only. Wed 5th December. I'm up at 6am I cant tell you how excited I am, 2 years of planning have got me here, I have completely immersed myself in Laos history and the Secret war, much has been written and one of my favorite pieces comes form this web site, Ed the author of the site Talkingproud.us has written some great stuff about Ban Laboy Ford and I have used it in my research, along with some great books my favorite being "The Ravens" and another "Shooting at the Moon".Check Ed's site out if you wish to learn more. Ban Laboy Ford back in the day http://talkingproud.us/Military/Ban%...yfordphoto.jpg http://talkingproud.us/Military/Ban%...ypassmap-2.jpg Picture with kind permission from Edward Marek Talkingproud.us So we are off heading back on the same trails as last year, this year the rainy season was not to wet so the trails are dry, last year it was a bog. Back through the same villages it all recognizable to me, this time I have the drift camera on and manged to catch the whole ride on Video which I will post once I have sussed out to edit video. This is how my day is looking beautiful trails not to hot... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020880-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020770-L.jpg I'm thinking this is to easy and I will cover the 50k's in no time. Time for a little rest. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020665-L.jpg After about 40k's the trail started to get harder and it appeared the easy day was over. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020671-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020667-L.jpg The rocky slope got steeper and steeper as the rocks got bigger, traction was hard to find and if I stopped it was really hard to get going again. I had a couple of off's and the camera didn't get much use. Four Vietnamese guys on Honda waves came the other way and gave me the finger, they all had video or cameras mounting on the bikes, not very friendly. The Last section of the rock pile nearly killed me the video captures my pain really well, when I got to the top the view where incredible and the pain etched on my face, it was the hardest ride I had ever done and I still had 4 k's to go. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020668-L.jpg The top insight, with some guy watching me, he disappeared when I got there. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020789-L.jpg Stunning beauty. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020784-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020677-L.jpg It took me about 20 minutes to calm my breathing down but what a great spot, then it a flattened out a bit and the views change also. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020679-L.jpg Then I found this...I stayed away from it looked intact. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020682-L.jpg I pressed on and the trail got a easier mostly down hill but lots of big holes and ruts and then like magic the famous Ford of Ban Laboy was right in front of me.* http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020692-L.jpg http://talkingproud.us/Military/Ban%...yfordphoto.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020688-L.jpg What a beautiful spot although I don't think the North Vietnamese picked it for that reason it's remoteness was the reason. It must have been so hard back then to get up and down to the ford especially with B 52 bombers pounding it, the rainy season would surely close it. I had made it. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020730-L.jpg I had my lunch here and just sat and pondered what had happened here, took a couple of souvenir rocks and a million photos. Upstream.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020721-L.jpg Down stream.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020750-L.jpg And me. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020740-L.jpg It was time to head back and there were a few things I wanted to check out on the way back, one was Target Charlie and alpha and a Choke point. The first was a choke point, this would be a point on the Trail where traffic merged on it's way up and down the trails the land around the Village is pop marked with craters, the vegetation has grown some what but you can see the landscape is not normal. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020815-L.jpg http://talkingproud.us/Military/Ban%...trafficjam.jpg Photo * * Talkingproud.us That's the first Choke done so I now head for Target Alpah & Charlie which looked like this back in the day. http://talkingproud.us/Military/Ban%...phacraters.jpg It was about 20ks and time to make some new friends. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020851-L.jpg The boys were cutting down trees, very happy indeed guess the new trailer came from the wood they cut, nice wheels dude....Then I passes through another village, last time there were bombs every where but these 2 in the same place and the others cleared up. 2011 http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...PC090168-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020856-L.jpg Spot the bomb in this picture? it's under the beer crates. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020859-L.jpg Then it's onto the next Village http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020662-L.jpg I stopped here last year to take some photos. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...PB100283-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...PB100281-L.jpg So I'm riding through the village and I spot the little girl, well I did not think I would ever see here again so I must pay her for the photo as I used it on my site. So I stop in and ask someone for a bit of help, I tell them I was here last year and took photos of the little girl and would like to pay her some royalties. Then I spot the old lady and try explain to her, they are getting some it but not the whole picture by this time quiet a crowd has formed. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020862-L.jpg They understand I want to give them money for a picture but I think that was about it, so Mum comes over and I give here some money, then she legs it, then the little girl appears and discovers we are talking about her she legs it to guess she thinks the Farang wants to buy her. I tell the Mum to give some money to the student (young girl) and she says OK, that's her in the green top holding onto the money. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020872-L.jpg An old chap comes over and thanks for the money and tells me take pictures if you want you are welcome, I decide that I should come back with the photos and a better interpretation of events. So I say my good bye and leave without a new photo of the Girl, next time. Hope they buy her something but I get the feeling that Beer Laos will be purchased.* [IMG]http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020873-L.jpg[/IMG] Back to the trail and I arrive at Target Alpha which look like this now. Charlie was the same. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020879-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020876-L.jpg No sign that anything happening here, just lush vegetation. it's time to head back to the hotel and drink a beer or two, this house was not here last year it was a scrap yard. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020886-L.jpg I had done what I set out to do 2 years ago, I was chuffed. I relaxed in my Hotel room that evening and got ready to head up to the Nape pass first thing in the Morning, I did not cross the ford!!. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020889-L.jpg More Tomorrow from the Nape pass!. |
pictures
I fixed all the broken links, checked them again, logged out, logged in and there all broken again, sorry guys....
I've got a headache...:funmeterno: |
Magic
Well the photos fixed themselves whilst I slept...amazing
I'm so happy...:D |
The Nape Pass
Thursday 6th December. Villabouri to Sainamhai Resort 282k's
Today would be another big day I was heading up towards the Nape pass via a small resort so it meant a bit of back tracking but I have time so what the hell. I set the GPS to get me up to route 12 and would make the rest of the plan from there. After yesterday's trip I was up for an easier day but the route had different plans for me, once again the drift captured it all. It's a 6.30am start and within 20 minutes I'm back on the trails in remote places which I had not seen before but all saved on my GPS. Already I can see that the day is not going to be easy as the first 2 river crossings were difficult and deep, slippery stones,broken logs and mud. Passed through some really old villages and often had to double backup to find the right trail as they seemed to be many new ones, a good test of my resolve and I was enjoying a different challenge today. After a while I arrive at the massive opening as the trail stops, it's a dried paddy field with the Normal borders around them and the trail has stopped but I can see other tracks so I have a little scout about but there is nothing going in my direction so I just follow where the track should have been, straight across the fields as far as the eye can see. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020893-L.jpg Great Views http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020898-L.jpg Time for a quick stop to hydrate then it,s full steam ahead as my notions of an easy day have gone and I'm starting to enjoy this rather hard one, I have to back track a few times, move logs negotiate ditches all in the blistering heat. The Paddy fields prove hard as the small walls are to high and the bike keeps getting beached. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020899-L.jpg Beached! http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020903-L.jpg I have to say this today would be one of my favorite rides ever, after a couple of hrs I come out onto a road and I,m back on track again. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020907-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020916-L.jpg The road is dusty but fast, no traffic and eventually I arrive at route 12 stop for some lunch about 20k's from route 8B which took me past Nam Theun power station and up an amazing twisty climb to about 700 meters then it flattened out, after the climb the road became graded and fast lots of building work and people around, lots of money. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020921-L.jpg [IMG]http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020922-L.jpg[/IMG] As I press on the land opens up into what I can only describe as as a sea with trees as far as the eye can see, was this a result of the power station flooding the area? I have no idea but what I saw was amazing and it went on for miles and miles, it's a protected area and I had the place to myself, 70k's an hr with a plume of dust following me, this is another must ride with some great little places to stay and great views. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020925-L.jpg It's beautiful up here! http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020931-L.jpg More wet Forrest. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020932-L.jpg Brilliant trails and no traffic at all. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020937-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020944-L.jpg The last 20k's was back into the jungle which is also being fixed up road wise a great track and I stop to talk to the work guys who spoke great English and was excited to meet the little farang and find out were I came from. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020952-L.jpg Moving the dirt. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020950-L.jpg Heading back into the bush. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020973-L.jpg The trail went back into the bush and after a bit there was a break in the bush and I realize there is a valley the size of London the other side of the trees, another wow moment and this ride keep getting better and better. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020964-L.jpg The Children in this house have a View to die for. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020982-L.jpg Lucky people waking up to that everyday. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020977-L.jpg I exit the 8B and head West on route 8 this is were I have to back track toward the limestone Forrest, the sun is going down at this point and I want to make it to the view point before it sets so I'm in a hurry, I stop along the way to get some other shots but I'm chasing the sun. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020983-L.jpg This shot remind me of ET for some reason. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020990-L.jpg I don't think I will make it, but gods loves a trier http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1020995-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030005-L.jpg This is the spot I was chasing. Only just made it. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030019-L.jpg I make just before it sets then I head for the resort where I have a meeting about some school uniforms I'm supplying. The resort is beautiful and I have a wonderful evening with the owner and his family and a few beer Laos and a large steak cooked by his daughter who is a Chef in training, she going to be good!.... then it's of to bed to ready myself for an early start up to the Nape pass. I have to say that to date has been the fun ride I have ever undertaken in Laos and would do it again anytime. :D:D:D:rofl Friday 7th December Sainamhai Resort to The Nape pass and onto Vientiane 478k's Morning arrives and I'm up early say my good byes and head of, today would be a long day 476 k's and my broken skin on my backside and hands is giving me Hell, my right index finger is badly swollen but I have to press on, I took a detour but got stopped because of a drainage ditch which was being made so I had to turn back but this is what it looked like.... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030051-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030075-L.jpg Beautiful. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030068-L.jpg I'm coming back to finish this ride. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030069-L.jpg I will return to that story when I complete it. Back to the route to VTE. And this is how the morning had started. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030023-L.jpg Amazing view, looks like somebody painted those mountains. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030026-L.jpg As I rode up to the pass it was raining and bloody cold, no turning back so when I reached the top I took a couple of snaps and headed back down and dried out and warmed up. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030077-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030078-L.jpg Now I will set the GPS for Vientiane switch my brain of and endure a long ride with only views for company, back passed the limestone Forrest again up to route 13. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030084-L.jpg I arrive at Vientiane about 7 that evening and find a hotel in town, clean up and eat as it had been a long day, I would leave for Thailand in the morning and was back home about 2pm looking the worst for wear, my mission had been a success apart from one thing which I will return to soon. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030091-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030095-L.jpg This ride as a blast, I saw many new things and experienced some wonderful moments that I can carry forever, the Lifan has paid for itself. The bike did not miss a beat and got through all the hard terrain without falling apart, think I'll give her a service when we get back and a night in the Kitchen as way of a thank you. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030096-L.jpg I'm back of up to Chaing Mai with my Mum until the 20th then I'm heading back for another 6 day blast to see things on the ever growing list. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030099-L.jpg Love the Lifan. |
very interesting !
Pleased the lifan proved to be a good bike .supposedly they have been buying up many of the smaller bike companies in China,so im guessing the cream of the Chinese bikes are rising to the top .Merry Christmas /New year,i will continue to follow your travels.Noel:D
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Awesome trip...
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The Lifan
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It's just been in the Jungle with 4 monster trailies...bmw Gs's, Yamaha and triumph 1200's and proved the bike to be on... Happy New year... bier |
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It's been a lot of fun so far....more to come Happy New Year bier |
Hello and thank you! Great Trip, Great Ride Report, Great Pictures!
:funmeteryes: Laos is FUNtastic! We miss it. When you drove along the "Lake" did you stop at the little bridge? We had a rest there and it was just great... cheers and a Happy New Year from Australia! Keep on :scooter: Sascha and Kerstin |
The Lake
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I have just been informed that this place is not a happy one, many families where moved because of construction and not given what they where promised......I will try to find out more. But yes it's a great looking place and real fun to ride...:funmeteryes: Happy New Year...:D |
I'm thinking your bike choice is bang on
You'd have to be strong to man handle some of those other bikes.I will follow with interest.:D
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Light Bikes
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I stripped the swing arm and shock linkage today, the bushes have lots of wear signs, so I cleaned, greased and reassembled it and man what a result it's moving beautifully I think now have a better bike than before ...:funmeteryes: I washed it as well and it came up great, so tomorrow I will service it and lube it up ready for the next trip which will not be until the end of the month but I will be in Laos...:funmeteryes: Cheap bike for touring Asia and 6000k's on Laos roads must be proof enough that it will do a job. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1040216-L.jpg Love the Lifan :scooter: |
Hey Chris
Happy New Year! I know where I'll be again in December 2013/Jan2014 and it won't be like the past 2 weeks, freezing my tits off riding around (pretty) Bulgaria and Turkey. http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps205f7117.jpg I'll be in touch later on to pick your brains ref Laos riding. Super RR. Thanks! Hang loose, Chris |
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Look forward to seeing you out here later in the year......we can have some fun...:D |
More from the four
The write up from Umar is brilliant (in italics) it was great to ride with people who share the same Passion for the HCMT as it's a fantastic piece of war time History that so few visit or even know about, and yes the Jungle is claiming it back. A lot of the war scrap on the trail is gone some of the trails have been graded and will be lost forever as new roads are being made and signs for tourists go up I will add a few photos a some words as we go along.
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...ld%20gun-L.jpg The picture of Umar below was taken 100 meters after the end of the trail in a Cafe in Ta Oi. Words cannot describe how hard we battled that day....1-2-3 push was used a lot that day. There where head in hands moments, how much farther is it moments and when will it end, all the same emotions I had when I first took it on. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1040232-L.jpg This is basically the Northern section we rode on day one down From the Mu Gui pass to Dong. http://talkingproud.us/Military/Ban%...boypassmap.jpg Talkingproud.us The Ho Chi Minh trail. The stuff of legends. Veteran American soldiers still talk about this unimaginable maze that they were tasked to bomb during the Vietnam War. Some of their stories became international best sellers. In all their stories, they describe the the Ho Chi Minh trail as a perfectly engineered route that enable soldiers to move quickly and silently under the canopy of the dense jungle. These networks of paths have a life of its own, ever growing and expanding, faster than any Americans can map them out and destroy them. 6000km of backwater paths through Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. http://talkingproud.us/Military/Ban%.../nvatrucks.jpg Trucks on the trail talkingproud.us Four decades later, the war has ended and these trails have grown silent, but it was never once forgotten. The surroundings have recovered with time but bombs continue to lay hidden and have over time become part of the jungle. American and Russian tanks and planes lay scattered, down but not defeated, waiting eagerly to relive their missions. Bridges have been destroyed and reclaimed by the rivers, only part of their structure remains, a testament to the chaos at that time. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1040200-L.jpg Great cover from the canopy We came across the Ho Chi Minh trail by chance, while researching routes in Laos. Google search gave us Luang Prabang, Vientiene, elephant rides, Vang Viang, river cruises, buegette, pubs, massages and after another 30 sites of the same stuff, the Ho Chin Trail name pops up. There was no exact route or location, just an image of the map and the American bombing mission in southern Laos. The more we researched. The more intrigued we became....there is something special along those trails, one not seen or felt by many coming into Laos. We decided to take our bikes into Laos and journey through those hushed trails and come back to tell the tale. http://talkingproud.us/Military/Ban%...oyedbridge.jpg Bombed out bridge and a new diversion quickly built http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...IMG_0302-L.jpg Before we even started, there were 2 worrying issues. First, there was little information on the exact location of these trails. Not the Internet, not anywhere! So we plotted according to the stories online, the pictures that we could gather and our imagination of what it could possibly be (as we later found out after the ride, our plotted route was so off the actual trail that it's embarrassing). The second worry was that no known bikes past the 400cc range has ever been recorded attempting to use this legendary trail. Those that has made it though on smaller bikes says that its a suicide mission. The bikes that we are on will never make it out in one piece. It will drown in the river, chocked in the trails by its own weight, our fancy rims will break unable to handle the stress of riding on the huge boulders and dry river beds, suspensions will fail and our bike parts will contribute to the existing war scraps. The trails have claimed many who thought that they were up for it, and we will not be the first nor will we be it's last. The message is clear; we were just fancy bike owners who bought the marketing sales pitch a little too well. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...IMG_0312-L.jpg It must have been selective hearing and reading at its best (or worst) because all we heard was, Ho Chin Minh Trail....legend.....awesome....bikes....adventure. .. Spirit...bombs... Christmas...New Year...adventure....campfire marshmallows? On the 26th of December 2012, four bikes reached southern Laos (Thakek) after making the journey 3000-4000km north from Singapore. These bikes 1200cc each, Yamaha S10, BMW GS, BMW GSA and Triumph Explorer have done their fair share of distance riding but not against legends such the HCMT. These bikes were shinny, farkled, fancy even, the pride of the fleet of adventure bikes (A KTM 990 was unable to come due to work commitments). As we reached Thakek, not one of us thought twice about going up against this legend..we were absolutely determined to take it on and survive to tell the tale... And so, the story between man and his machine against the perfectly engineered trails used in the Vietnam War begins.... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030699-L.jpg Welcome to Laos boys, it was great seeing you rock up. We took a gamble to enter via Frienship Bridge III of Nakhon Phanom - Thakek crossing after being denied at Muen Nguen. Long story there. The officials gave the go ahead but had a change of heart. Staying away from Huay Kon in the meantime till the situations is clearer. At FBIII was a different story, they turned us away politely and suggested we load our bikes on a pick up. In the meantime, he called up his boss to seek clearance for us. With a stroke of luck, we were given the go ahead but we need to move quickly. All done in 10 minutes. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...IMG_0311-L.jpg Fast forward to day one..all hell was breaking loose...we were questioning our sanity of being there in the first place.....There was absolutely no way we could have bashed through hundreds of kilometres of trails with our imaginary route. At this juncture, i would like to introduce the fifth rider who we are ever thankful for joining us. A little humble Lifan (China made motorcycle 200cc - rider named Chris). Chris and his Lifan remind me of Disney movies, the king’s soldiers in the dark forest on a noble quest guided by magical wisps and nymphs. We were the dumb soldiers; Chris was that magical wisps...guiding us along the relentless paths.. Ever so nimble, he is always in front of us, showing us the trail and helping us when needed..(Plus there's something about the way when he says doesn’t worry that makes it a bit comforting for us... Lols... What he actually meant was there were just 12 more rivers to cross with chest deep waters!) http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...0/L/maps-L.jpg There only little rivers..... The battle between man and his machine with the legendary trails over the following 4days was epic. The first for these kinds of bikes in South East Asia. When trails proved too technical for the bikes, all 5 huffed and puffed to push and provide leverage and support. When rivers proved too mighty to cross, we combined our strength (literally) and use it to link the the bikes across. When darkness falls and the last remaining lights in the sky disappear, we relied on each other’s tail lights and feed on each other’s perseverance to get out of the trails. When we got separated and lost in the trails, not one man blamed the other; instead we ride harder and searched further. When one man fall, four will come to his aid; one to pick him, another to pick his morale and two others to muscle the bike up. We shall leave no man or bike behind, there will be no casualties on the HCMT. We may take all day and night but we will get out together. http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...17501640_n.jpg This was a very difficult ride at night as the group kept getting split up and it was essential we all stayed together, the radios that the boys had carried along would serve us well. "Singapore Singapore" was the call sign and when the radio crackled back it felt great....we are still together..We also broke some new trails that night which in the day light would have been great, but at night we had no time to enjoy the discovery. As I write this tale of ours, our bikes and us have survived the HCMT in one piece. Even though we covered the major routes, we barely scratched the surface of the 6000km long network of trails. The HCMT did not let us go easily. We left the trail with bruises on our arms and duct tapes and cable ties on our bikes. Each battle scar, a worthy story of their own. Even though over time, our bodies will heal and the bikes will be replaced, we want to let it be known that 4 beasts and a China made bike called Lifan (they say it won’t make it past the showroom) have survived the HCMT despite all the naysayers. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...20bridge-L.jpg It is never about the bike make or model, it has always been the Rider that makes the story. For those brief intense moments, we called the Ho Chi Minh trail our own and this was our story. Rider verdict: Lifan - not a single fall or damage - full marks 10/10 http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1040216-L.jpg GSA - made the mistake of hitting the trails with full 33l tank. Damaged panniers. Nearly sunk the boat during river crossing. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1040228-L.jpg GS - Rider had super long legs. Can waddle out of sticky situations easily. Bottomed out forks. Hates soft sand trails http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030848-L.jpg S10- Nearly became part of the river bank. Sank the boat completely. Rider was a survivor. Suggested camping out when it was dark and we were still in the trails with some 30km to go.. We got no tent and he got no sleeping bags http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...IMG_0353-L.jpg Triumph Explorer- Battle harden rider let down by his panniers. It did a huge full slow motion flip some 5 meters away when he bottomed out in a huge rut. He also claim he had the least no of falls among the beasts in the trails... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030848-L.jpg Battle damage and flying panniers with beautiful LED's at night, looked like a space ship. [I] Epic moment 1 - when we saw the ford that we were crossing was flooded waist deep. That means we either take the boat across or heave the almost 300kg bikes across. Wait where did Chris go... Oh he's already on the other side.... http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...83379404_n.jpg Epic moment 2 - When the S10 was firmly on the boat and we were about to leave the river bank and the boat starts taking in water.... The boatman frantically asked us to reverse the S10... We thought he was kidding... When we realised he wasn't and we were finding the reverse gear on the S10, the boat sank completely (hull touching the river bed 2 meters from the river bank). The S10 exhaust was barely above water. From there, we had to manhandle the 300kg machine out of the water and than get it back onto the dry bank. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030933-L.jpg Sunk! I was on the other bank laughing my head off 123 heave.....magical moment. Epic moment 3 - The boatman smacks his head and bans all our bikes on his boat. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...IMG_0334-L.jpg To heavy Epic moment 4 - When the boatman strips his pants down. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1030944-L.jpg No trousers. And the relief on everyone’s face when all bikes got to the other side. http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...00601687_n.jpg Made it The deepest and longest (about 40m) river that I have ever rode my bike across. Looking easy and good when suddenly the water resistance overcame my bike (should have opened more) and I dropped my bike to the left. Chris nearly dropped his camera as he helped me lift the bike up. For the next 15 mins it would not start and we were going SHITE!!!!!...... word cannot describe our joy when the engine stuttered back to life with river water coming out of the exhaust… phew.. too close a call…. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Othe...P1040222-L.jpg Check out the bow wave.. The bike just stopped dead an toppled over right in-front of me, we got it picked up in seconds but it would not start, we could not push it out we were stuck...plan b...she fired up and we got her up the slope which was no easy task. What a ride guys. |
Back on the road
As I mentioned before I spent the month of January taking my Mum and old lady places, mostly in Laos so I did virtually no riding so as you can Imagine I was itching to get going again. It was nice to see Laos on a different mode of transport, the flight from Phonsavan to Vientiane being the high light for me, the hills in Laos are spectacular from the air I could see all the trails and new I would be coming back to ride them some day, the wife had to leave early and go to Chaing Mai so Mum and eye carried on up to Luang Prabang which Mum fell in Love with, so peaceful.and happy....
We visited all the museums in VTE but I think Mum enjoyed the Plain of Jars the most, we took half a Bombie through customs each (not live) and laughed at our little caper, got really cold in Phonsavan, endured some terrible coach rides through stunning country and even made to it the Bridge over the River Kwhai....it was great to spend some time with my Mum helped me understand myself a bit better, I'm a chip of the old block and proud of it too. All us riders go of on our journeys with Mum and Dad and Family following us living the trip, so for Mum to see what I see first hand was special and something I could share, wish she rode a bike...:D Here a few of my favorites from January. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040371-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040368-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040408-L.jpg The prediction of things that would fall from the sky I thought. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040415-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040417-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040418-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040428-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040441-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040467-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040478-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040506-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040516-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040534-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040538-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040548-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040679-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...IMG_0193-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040818-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040809-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040869-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040875-L.jpg Migs rotting on the runway http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040894-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...P1040896-L.jpg Craters from 40 years ago... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Trav...1040903-XL.jpg Holidays over and I arrived back in Laos Feb 1st the bike I had prepped before hand and made a smooth passage through customs ant Non Kahi/VTE but told I could only keep the bike there 14 days.....yeah no problem. into VTE for the night and a few people to see the next morning afternoon I set of For Ban Namasnam and the Sainamhai Resort which I arrived at early evening, had dinner and Beers with Vongs and his family and I gave him some money for School uniforms for the village school. Next morning it's up real early and I'm heading for Expon and route 9 and as much trail as I can ride before I have to go to Luang Prabang some I'm getting a move on and make it back to Villaburi that evening, it had been a long hard day on fast gravel and then hit the trails but man I felt good. Found some cool stuff but the idea was to get to Xepon to meet up with a local and sort a few things out for the future. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1040988-L.jpg Discharged fuel cells made into boats...fantastic idea. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1040993-L.jpg Then I got up the road a bit a found an intact one.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1040998-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050004-L.jpg Blasting down the 1E through the flooded area onto the trail. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050013-L.jpg Back into the little village trails. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050014-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050016-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050017-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050019-L.jpg Then it got harder there was a tree down and the villagers had mad a detour...so i went for a walk first. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050020-L.jpg With a bit of bashing we got through....:D and straight into a little river. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050022-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050026-L.jpg Really was a good day and I arrived in day light...it had been a great day riding...clean up eat and of to bed as I'm going early again tomorrow. Got up feeling sore from yesterday think I over did it a little but hey I'm nearly in Ban Xepon which I soon get to after breakfast spoke to the Local involved and my mission was complete, I have some where to stay and some local information to follow up. So I Decide to ride route 9 to Thaket, which might as well be off road, I thought I was going to be sitting down all day but spent most of standing as the road was so broken up, got the Lifan airborne and bottomed her out good and proper....did see some stuff on the way. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050029-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050032-L.jpg Further up the road I spotted some big artillery pieces off the road and went got some pictures, then the Army came running out saying stop no Picture.....I was getting ready to leave when more came and told me show the pictures, then sadly I had to delete them, I acted stupid and said my good byes, damn I should have been quicker... :nono: |
Been a while
I'm back in Blighty planning my escape back to Laos...:thumbup1:
I will try to get this RR done..doh Sorry for the slackness..:oops2: http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050547-L.jpg And the Lifan did make it! |
Great post. Loved it. :mchappy:
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Great RR. Get it finished!
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Finish it of....
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Yes Sir.....:scooter: I'm on it today.... :D |
More from Laos
After the Army told me of I went to the UXO center in Dong for a look, nobody was around so I grabbed some pictures and left...
http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050070-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050062-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050064-L.jpg Passed some more bombed out bridges, the amount of UXO ornaments along this road is unbelievable, every where you look you see an old casing.... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050080-L.jpg I arrived in Thaket and checked into a hotel, I was very tired and tomorrow was another big day, so food and early to bed for me.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050085-L.jpg Next Morning I'm going back to Namsanam for the night before heading up North, so I stop in at the MAG centre to say hello, all very friendly and some of them recognize me from the trials.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050086-L.jpg The Boss. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050088-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050093-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050094-L.jpg Afterwards it's back on the 1E and I'm going for a poke around near the Dam http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050096-L.jpg Great views. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050101-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050116-L.jpg Nobody around http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050118-L.jpg Except this Dude Andy who's riding the world.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050123-L.jpg Looks a bit spooky here.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050129-L.jpg Then the Dam, I had to park the bike, pity because there was no way i was walking the last k in this heat, what a beautiful area. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050141-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050132-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050145-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050146-L.jpg It's a beautiful ride to the dam, nobody around at all. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050148-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050151-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050152-L.jpg And finally back to Ban Namsanam. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050160-L.jpg A very tired man today...and tomorrow is a big one up to Phonsavan. wheres my bed. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050167-L.jpg I got up real early, I think this is day 4 on the road and I'm going to try route 10, my GPS is saying no but i'm told it's new tarmac all the way....so of I go..good morning. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050191-L.jpg I got the Video on and it's just bend after bend, up down like a roller coaster http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050198-L.jpg Then I run into a rather large ford, check it out and in I go, the water is so strong is pushing me toward the edge of the ford then I get stuck...the bike will not move I think the clutch has just let go....:eek1 I'm stuck in the middle but spot a couple of workers and ask them to come over and help, we still cant push the bike....then one notices the chain is off, I hook her on push her back and bingo I'm saved, the force of the water must have derailed it.....got it all on video...thanks guys and I'm off again. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050196-L.jpg More great roads. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050202-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050207-L.jpg What a ride... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050210-L.jpg What a view http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050211-L.jpg I arrived Phonsavan around 4pm booked into a Hotel, went for dinner and once again went to bed early...man I'm tired..:D Next morning I'm getting up late and going to the tourist board to get some info and check a few things out, it's cold in Phonsavan, bring a jumper.. MAG centre. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050218-L.jpg Tourist information. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050225-L.jpg Lots of war scrap http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050247-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050232-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050233-L.jpg Then it's back on the road, yesterday was good but today was mind blowing, the roads are good, the views are brilliant, route 7 to route 13 North, up and down all day, never have I ridden such stunning terrain.... This picture sums up the day, you can see where yu have just come from. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050260-L.jpg A magical day http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050262-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050266-L.jpg I arrived in Luang Prabang exhausted, 1800k's had left me knackered, the Lifan was in need of some love. I was in LP to do some Teaching at the LEOT center....first I would rest though. What a week.....:D, I feel like I could ride forever. |
Luang Prabang...
LP
I stayed in Luang Prabang for 2 week.... I did it whilst in Luang Prabang http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050346-L.jpg Sign is facing the wrong way... Myself and HP2 set of from Leot School about 12 noon and headed out to his Village, Myself and Mr Alan had put an aid parcel together, exercise books, pens, pencils and other learning things as well as some medicines and some toys all bound for the school he works at. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050329-L.jpg Much needed things. The Lifan was loaded to the hilt, 2 up she behaved well and got the job done. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050331-L.jpg The donkey. It was only about 50ks most of it of road but no real problem just a lot of dust, we arrived about 1.30 and the drinking started... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050332-L.jpg Fresh batch of Moonshine. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050342-L.jpg Got to try it and I liked it We had some food and found out that the School caretaker was not about so we would have to take the stuff bound for school on Monday, no problem so we set of for the cave of Teeth. It's a nice ride up here, with some great views and soon we reached the place and waited for the man with the keys. Mr Alan had been up here a few weeks ago and told me of the place along with the stories. It was used as an air raid shelter in the War and after that they say it was used as a prison by that Pathet Loa to detain helpers of the Americans??, I don't know but there are thousands of Teeth in there some look human other are animal.....but why somebody would put them in cases? First up you got to cross the bridge and walk the meadow to the cave... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050347-L.jpg The bridge with our guide and hp. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050348-L.jpg Nice bridge hold on tight. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050351-L.jpg It sways a bit. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050353-L.jpg Off goes our guide. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050354-L.jpg It's a beautiful spot. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050360-L.jpg Trail up to the Cave http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050362-L.jpg The Jailer. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050372-L.jpg Inside the cave of Teeth. The climb up is steep and hot but when you get in the cave it's even hotter, I was having problems trying to take pictures but I managed a few, the cabinets you see are full of teeth and Bone... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050379-L.jpg WOW http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050381-L.jpg There is Teeth in there. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050382-L.jpg Cabinets of Teeth. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050366-L.jpg Lots of Teeth http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050371-L.jpg Many questions to be answered. There are many passages and tunnels, a caver needs to come here and check it all out, I didn't really enjoy being in there as I didn't want to get lost in the labyrinth of tunnels. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050374-L.jpg Spooky http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050378-L.jpg Never know what you will find if you look. Time for a scratch around on the floor to see what we can fine, I found what looks like and old webbing clip, very old and rusty and they guide said I could keep it so I will get it cleaned up and Mr Alan is going to get some proofing work done on some of the teeth to learn more about it, interesting stuff indeed there is no information on this cave apart from what your told....somebody knows!. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050504-L.jpg Webbing strap? http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050503-L.jpg Any ideas welcome. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050410-L.jpg These looked Human. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050420-L.jpg More Cabinets. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050402-L.jpg Out alive. There are 2 cave entrances and cabinets in both...time to make our way back down. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050426-L.jpg My friend. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050427-L.jpg My guide. On the way back we stopped and said hello to the villagers who where preparing the paddy fields. That's hard work in this heat... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050430-L.jpg Paddy field. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050437-L.jpg Happy locals who where keen to talk to me. Then it back across the bridge and of to see where Mr H lives... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050444-L.jpg Watch your step. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050446-L.jpg Fantastic. A quick ride to the next village and welcome to Hp's home.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050450-L.jpg Home is where the Heart is right? http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050449-L.jpg He welcomed me in. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050447-L.jpg The Kitchen. This guy lives here and teaches at the school as part of his training, he receives no money for his toil, but still he smiles...as do all the children. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050453-L.jpg Happy sister. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050454-L.jpg So happy. These people live simple lives and are a joy to be around, we head back to his family house stopping to buy fish for supper. Hp is making BBQ fish. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050460-L.jpg Getting the fish http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050462-L.jpg Dinner. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050466-L.jpg Shop owner. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050464-L.jpg She wants to see the pictures. We head back to House get the BBQ going with a few beers and this is where I start to have a few moments of reflection on my life, I have Money, family, gadgets,love but I'm wondering who's the lucky one!. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050467-L.jpg Get cooking H. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050468-L.jpg I helped by drinking. Hp is busy prepping the fish with Bamboo skewers each done with precision and care, so I'm left alone with my thoughts. There are people coming over to shower at the communal wash room this makes me a little uncomfortable at first I don't know where to look when the ladies start stripping off, so I position myself so I cant see, I don't think they even saw me, other elders came over looked at me and the bike and just walked on by.... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050469-L.jpg Haven't done this for a long time. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050471-L.jpg Lady from the shop bringing cold beer over. Darkness is falling and we are chatting away and then HP starts to sing, sounds a little sad and pulls on my Heart strings a little, once again I'm thinking who's the lucky one?, this boy has nothing but is full of life and committed to getting a good job to support his family, he tells me the whole story and Jesus I got a tear in my eye, he is smiling all the time....an inspiration. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050473-L.jpg HP happy as ever. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050474-L.jpg Dusk is coming. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050475-L.jpg Ahan sep Lie. I had not felt this free for a long time and was humbled by the whole experience, such great people and his family were so well mannered it took me back...his brother spoke great English and we enjoyed the beer Laos, you know these people don't seem to dream of better but rather be happy with what they have!. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050479-L.jpg Our home for the night. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050476-L.jpg More fish more beer. Eventually we all went inside and eat& drunk until late in the evening, I had a great time and those memories will stay with me forever, and I'm happy to share them with you. We all slept on the floor of the little house and I slept well.....thank you HP2 and your family....still cant work out who's the lucky one, me or them! In the morning we were woken by the animals, it was like the animals where all saying good morning to each other, the village was alive and it was time to get up... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050483-L.jpg Good Morning. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050485-L.jpg HP's Sister in Law http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050490-L.jpg Grandmother. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050491-L.jpg Brother. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050493-L.jpg Me having a go. We said our goodbyes and headed back to Luang Prabang where I met his sister who supports HP schooling.....a beautiful lady who lives to help her family.... So who is the lucky one, us with our money and nice houses etc, or HP and his family who all look out and care for one and other, share everything and smile all the time.... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050477-L.jpg Bopen yang.(your welcome) :D |
Luang Prabang to Phonsavan
After my teaching spell at Leot I was ready for some riding, I was hard to leave Luang Prabang as I made so many new friends and really enjoyed teaching there, a big thanks to Alan and the Leot team for making me feel so welcome. The Children just want to learn it's inspirational.
I decided to take the off road route to Phonsavan which became a bit of a dash as I dropped in on some friends to say goodbye, it was a day of river crossings, wet feet and wobbly boats along with savvy Children trying to exploit the stranded farang. The House I stayed in last weekend was torn apart for for an extension to be built for the new baby, the whole village was there lending a hand, the ladies laid on the food whilst the men done the construction, it was like clock work everybody knew their place. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050535-L.jpg Extension going up. I said my goodbyes and headed up to see HP2 and say good bye to him, then I headed for the hills. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050540-L.jpg Fast graded roads. It was about 150ks with lots of rivers, fast gravel and bone shaking wash board mud and heaps of dust, with my late departure it became a race against time as I did not want to ride at night. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050543-L.jpg Check out the trail. But the views are stunning so I find myself stopping a lot to take it in... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050547-L.jpg Wow. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050553-L.jpg Little villages in the valleys. Then the rivers started, I could not cross it was to deep, but a little further upstream where some boats manned by Children, we basically dragged the bike on board an set of across the river the boat was wobbling and I thought we were going in so I closed my eyes and put my head on the handlebars and prayed we would make it.....we did, the the little people wanted 500,000 kip for their trouble I got them down to 50,000 which is a good for 15 minutes work, meanwhile I was left exhausted from the bike dragging in that heat, no pictures for a while as its river after river crossing, some long some deep all slippery and I hate having wet feet. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050555-L.jpg River crossing. Then I get to a section that's being upgraded and have to wait whilst the plant operators make me a ramp. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050556-L.jpg these boys work these like their hands. Cleared that then I get this section.....man I tired. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050559-L.jpg Not easy riding. This turning out to be a hard day for me, but then it just all opens up...flat ground in great big valley. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050560-L.jpg One minute in the hills the next open spaces. I pass an old Air America site, it's beautiful up here and the road is fast... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050562-L.jpg Control tower. So it's flat out here and I'm not thinking about my wet feet anymore. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050565-L.jpg Great place for an airfield. I'm not slowing down for anything and the Lifan is taking a real pounding. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050567-L.jpg Army bridge. It's a great spot up here and something catches my eye of to the left...Horses , first one I have seen since I arrived. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050568-L.jpg Horses?? http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050569-L.jpg Yes it's a Horse Back onto the Tarmac and Phonsavan is close, the war scrap is everywhere. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050571-L.jpg Russian Tank? I arrive in Phonsavan just as it gets dark and once again it's bloody cold, I find a little guest house for 50,000 kip a night, eat the food joy had prepared me that morning, drunk an energy milkshake and fell asleep in my riding gear......boots where left outside along with the socks. That was one hard day and tomorrow was going into the unknown with an early start. sweet dreams. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050547-L.jpg Right through the middle. I checked the bike in the morning and every spoke was loose, the wheel had been hitting the swing arm... |
Ls36
LS36 (Lima Site)was and American Airbase in the Secret war in Laos...
You may have already guessed but I have a fascination with the Vietnam war, although until a few years back I had never heard of the Secret War in Laos I knew a bit about the War in Vietnam, my curiosity has turned into a passion and being able to visit these famous places is priceless, to read about them is one thing, to visit them is another. http://talkingproud.us/files/ls36aerial.jpg How it looked back in the day (photo Talkingproud) So after a pretty hard day the day before I wake up still in my body Armour brush my teeth, quick coffee and I'm off, 130k's of I don't know what lay in front of me. Stock up on food and water and it's a slow start as it's bloody cold, the Lifan seems to be moving around a lot but I put it down to the worn Knobbly Tyre...first find of the day.. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050574-L.jpg Booster from a Sam Missile http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050575-L.jpg Guess that's Russia The first part of the ride is nice, great views and graded roads... http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050581-L.jpg Stunning http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050579-L.jpg So many different landscapes in Laos http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050586-L.jpg That's the way we are going The wide open spaces soon give way to Jungle tracks and soon enough there's a river with a brand new bridge which I pay 20,000 kip to cross, no wet feet and I'm asked to sign the bridge and Invited in for dinner. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050588-L.jpg No wet feet. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050589-L.jpg Pay or get wet. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050592-L.jpg First Farang he told me. Dinner looks a little scary so I have a drink and then set of again, the trail gets harder and harder, deep ruts and sheer drops winding up and down through the valleys, lots of flowers up here. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050596-L.jpg What sort of flower is this. Some of the open sections where really nice to ride but it was always back into the jungle. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050598-L.jpg Great riding. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050604-L.jpg Beautiful. I keep pressing on and then 5ks from where I'm going a sign http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050606-L.jpg You have to ride 120 k's to see this sign. The last part of the trail was nasty which always seems the way in Laos, I cant imagine trying to walk here, some of the log bridges where wheel eaters so it was full gas over them and hope for the best. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050607-L.jpg Great track And finally after 4 hrs I'm here, beautiful sign....128ks of standing up....my legs hurt. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y7K5wyJR6o...0/P1050608.JPG Getting ready for the tourists. This is the site that greeted me after passing through the village of Ban Nakhang. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050609-L.jpg The entrance is gated. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050615-L.jpg LS36 is in there. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050630-L.jpg Another stunning area. Not much to see for 4 hrs riding so I go for a poke around and things start coming together. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050612-L.jpg Fuel tanks. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050617-L.jpg Not much good now. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050616-L.jpg Guidance Ok so I have my bearings I'm the little arrow head and the black strip is the run way...lets go have a look. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050618-L.jpg Left behind equipment. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050619-L.jpg 40 years on http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050620-L.jpg Grader. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050621-L.jpg How did that end up this way up? http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050623-L.jpg Reelects of war. Then it's onto the runway...dead ahead http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050631-L.jpg Compass bearings. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050628-L.jpg Run way. Looking at it from the other end. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050624-L.jpg Compass bearings. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050625-L.jpg Run Way http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050627-L.jpg Looking down the runway. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050614-L.jpg By this time it was nearly 2pm so I went of to have a look around the village which has used all the old scrap fuel drums as fencing. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050633-L.jpg Barrel fencing. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050634-L.jpg Nothing goes to waste. More war scrap. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050635-L.jpg Great condition after 40 years http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050636-L.jpg Bombie casing http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050637-L.jpg Locals working away on their weaving machines. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050638-L.jpg http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050639-L.jpg Lots of signs in this Ban http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050642-L.jpg A simple life. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050643-L.jpg The way out. No it's time to head back, I know what to expect so I'm not hanging around. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050644-L.jpg Lets go. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050653-L.jpg The bike looks so small in this landscape. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050654-L.jpg Stunning Laos. I rode home as fast as I could not wanting to ride at night and had a rare delight of the sun behind me and the moon in front, sounds like and old Irish blessing. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050663-L.jpg Sun and Moon. I spotted a Bombie casing on the back of this cart, 4 decades later they are still digging them up. http://steveccanyon.smugmug.com/Truc...P1050664-L.jpg Scrap metal hunters. It was a tough 250ks, my plan was to head north tomorrow, but biggus reminded me that February only has 28 day...shit I'm heading south tomorrow instead......:D Read more about Ls36 here.. Talking Proud Home |
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