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Jammin thru the Global South
This is it. The big one for me. I left the US in early March on a 2+ year journey through Latin America and Africa. It's one way and don't know when I'll be coming back to the US. I've sold everything off and my only possessions will be my DR650 and what I can carry with me. :scooter:
Thanks to everyone on HU who's helped with trip planning questions over the years. Couldn't do this without your help. And of course thanks to everyone who has gone before me and provided inspiration and information through your ride reports. :thumbup1: I'm about four months into my trip and currently in La Paz, Bolivia. Sorry for the late start here on HU, but I'll try and catch up quickly. Thanks, Jay __________________________________ http://i47.tinypic.com/iglwjl.jpg http://JamminGlobal.com Follow on http://i50.tinypic.com/or75lx.jpg.com/JamminGlobal | http://i47.tinypic.com/34ozp7c.jpg at http://i46.tinypic.com/ieo5qh.jpg.com/JamminGlobal The Global South. It's a term used to refer to the developing countries that mostly lie in the southern hemisphere. This story is about a two year motorcycle journey through Latin America and Africa heading towards India with a desire to raise awareness about sustainability and eudaimonia, the search for things that are true, good and beautiful. http://jamminwithjay.com/images/0806...laska_512s.JPG After spending the first two decades of my life growing up in Africa and being schooled in India, I spent the last decade in the US specializing in university and subsequently working in corporate product design engineering. It's been a blast and I've been very thankful for the life I've had so far, making a plentitude of meaningful connections and having had numerous lifetime experiences. However, curiosity, that great driving primal force of all life, responsible for where I am today, has been exposed to the grand scheme of things and is gnawing inside of me to grab at the opportunity that lies within my potential to gain a far deeper understanding of life on this planet. If that was my only goal of this journey then perhaps I should simply travel directly to the places where I expect to learn the most about how humans and the rest of nature interact and how best we can sustainably develop civilization and co-habit peacefully with nature. But in my short travels so far I have learnt that the most meaningful experiences are the ones you don't plan for; giving up control to the journey and letting experiences materialize. The road through a barren landscape could be a revelation of ideas or a synthesis of understanding. It is with this in mind that overland motorcycle travel appears best suited for such a journey. Every opportunity has a cost and I've been trying to conduct the most thorough cost-benefit analysis of a long duration motorcycle trip through a majority of the world's developing countries. Benefits come easily to the mind, with the right side of the brain trying to visualize all the wonderful sights of unseen lands, all the tasteful treats from roadside shacks and all the warm people that are the one homo-sapiens. And the left brain pondering over how useful and relevant these experiences will be in shaping my life from here on out and positively enriching my productivity in future endeavours. However, the left brain can't ignore the looming elephant in the room, regarding security to my well-being, which I will mitigate to the best of my ability. Besides the obvious costs regarding finances and career paths, the one regarding longevity and safety has caused the biggest lump in my throat. Voluntarily giving up my comfortable life in the US and hoping for the best at the other side of the journey was not hard to decide on as I'm confident in my abilities to earn an income when that time comes again. This journey that begins in March 2010 had seeds planted about four years ago, when I first caught wind of the possibility of riding around the world on a motorcycle from advrider.com and horizonsunlimited.com, global adventure motorcycling forums that have been a source of inspiration along with copious amounts of information. Subsequently, I toured around the US on my Suzuki GSX-R600 learning from veteran motorcycle travelers and coming into my own, belonging on the road. I then acquired a Suzuki DR650, a more appropriate motorcycle for unknown road conditions and tested the waters with a short trip around Mexico in 2007. The success of that trip convinced me that going further south would be very feasible and highly enjoyable. Since then, the planning has been solidifying up to this point. In between, I made a trip up to Alaska in 2008 and one down the Continental Divide in 2009. I tested various gear and configurations to see what would work best for this upcoming journey. I also evaluated my attitude in various situations, such as mechanical breakdowns and minor accidents. Seeing that I survived those with no long term effects, I am confident that I'll be able to get through situations that will no doubt arise on the journey ahead. http://jamminwithjay.com/images/090828_CDR/CDR_066.jpg I have been looking forward to and dreaming of commencing this journey for the past four years. I have a feeling it's going to be good and I'm as prepared as I'll ever be. Come along for the journey and please do write me a hello to keep me company on the road through The Global South... |
The Route Plan
The general route plan is to ride around South America in 2010 and then ship or fly over the Atlantic to spend 2011 around Africa and then make my way towards India. http://i46.tinypic.com/bi13fa.jpg Being a geo-political news junkie, I've been keeping abreast of the news in the regions I'll be traveling through and will avoid areas that are deemed unstable. However, one thing going in my favor is my brown skin color. In Mexico, with the few Spanish phrases that I could speak, people assumed I was Mexican since they can range from fair to dark and brown fits in there somewhere. I'll be taking a Spanish language immersion course in Guatemala and if I can come out of there speaking fluently, I should be able to pass for a local in many countries. Of course, I'll see what I can do about learning Portuguese for Brazil. My French is going to need a brush-up before I enter West Africa and besides that English should get me by along with a dose of respect for the locals. After Africa, I'd like to continue overland through the Middle East into India. However, I'm not sure I can get a visa for Pakistan or if I'll be allowed to cross the border from Iran into Pakistan at Taftan. But that's two years away and I'll figure it out as I get closer. Being an Indian citizen, my situation dictates that once I leave the US, the only country that will bureaucratically welcome me with open arms will be Mother India and thus the journey will be heading towards there. However, I might slow down somewhere along the way. And that could be in southern Africa, as I consider Zambia to be a second home and would like to give back to the country that provided me an exciting childhood. Along with noting down the routes traversed by previous motorcycle travelers, the general climate in each region will dictate how the route goes. For example, I'll be avoiding the rainy season in Brazil and the super hot summers of the Sahara. The line shows my approximate route: http://i46.tinypic.com/2eaku0y.jpg http://i45.tinypic.com/a4762t.jpg |
About the Bike
This being a motorcycle trip, the bike is obviously a very important part of the trip and I need to make sure that the bike is capable of what I ask of it. To ensure this, I've modified the bike to better suit long distance adventure riding and have done the routine maintenance to reduce the chances of any breakdowns. My only possessions for the next two years will be what I can carry on my motorcycle and thus it acts as a lifeline and a home on two wheels. In my preparation for this trip, I've tried to learn as much as possible about all aspects of this motorcycle so that I can better handle any mechanical breakdowns or just routine maintenance. The Suzuki DR650 is a tried and tested motorcycle that has been taken around the world by numerous others before me. Besides being highly functional for the task at hand, she also looks good and that matters because I have to bond with the bike as she'll be my steadfast companion through this journey. Her name is sanDRina (sun-dree-nah) and we've already gotten off to a great start with a successful two week trip in Summer 2009 down the Continental Divide. The reason I chose the DR for long distance adventure touring: - Dual-Sport Capability > meaning it can handle dirt and gravel roads as well as cruising on the highway. - Tube Tires > easier to patch/repair a tube tire than to repair a tubeless tire like sport bikes. - Spoked Rims > can absorb the shock of poor roads better than alloy rims. - Expandable Gas Tank > this bike's design is such that the original gas tank (3.4 gallons) can be upgraded with a 4.9 gallon one or a massive 7.9 gallon tank, which I currently have. - Air Cooled > the bike's engine is cooled by moving air and an oil cooler but with no water-cooling (radiator), meaning less parts to worry about failing. - Carburetion > this bike is carbureted instead of fuel injected because it's easier to work on in case something goes wrong while traveling. Modifications To The Bike From Stock (as she came from previous owner) - Aqualine Safari 7.9 gallon gas tank (to improve range to nearly 400 miles) - Corbin aftermarket seat (to improve comfort) - Mikuni Flat Slide TM40 Carb with K&N Air Filter (to improve performance and throttle response) - Happy Trails Skid Plate (to protect the engine) - Answer 1" Handle Bar (to improve handling and durability) - Trail Tech Vapor Digital Speedometer with Tachometer (to improve monitoring) - WER Steering Stabilizer (to improve handling) - SuperBrace Fork Brace (to improve handling) - Seal Savers fork boots (to protect dirt from damaging front suspension seals) - Stiffer Progressive front and rear springs (to improve handling) - Larry Roeseler Rear Shock Absorber (to improve handling) - Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines (to improve braking performance) - Adjustable Chain Guide (to protect the chain) - Acerbis Hand-guards (to protect the fingers and the levers) - Acerbis Supermotard Front Fender (to improve aero drag and looks) - LED Tail Light and Turn Signals (to improve the looks and reduce voltage draw) - Secured Neutral Sending Switch (neutral gear indicator bolts that could come loose in the engine) - Upgraded Engine Torque Limiter (to prevent starter gear train damage related to this model year) - Upgraded Engine Base Gasket (factory paper gasket could lead to leaks) Modifications Added Since Then - Rear Luggage Rack (to improve usability) - Happy Trails Luggage Rack with Pannier Set and Top Box (to secure and increase storage space) - Symtec Heated Grips (to provide warmth to the fingers when it's cold) - Centech AP-2 Fuse Box (to have better control of electronic add-ons) - Eastern Beaver Headlight Relay Kit (to increase power to headlights) - Voltminder Battery Voltage Monitor (to monitor battery health) - Upper Chain Roller Removed (potential design flaw that could damage the frame) - Aluminum Engine Side Case Protector (to increase engine protection) - Wossner Forged Piston - Scotts Stainless Steel Reusable Oil Filter (to reduce carrying spare parts - disposable filters) - Rear Brake Master Cylinder Guard (to protect exposed components) - Shortened Kick Stand and welded Larger Foot Plate (to improve stability when parked) - Fabricated Highway Pegs (to reduce strain on legs) - Fabricated Lexan Windshield (to improve comfort in terms of wind buffeting) - Fabricated custom bike crutch to aid in tire repair - Tool tube under engine and subframe (to increase carrying space) Farkles (Functioning Sparkles: electronic add-ons) - GPS: Garmin 60Cx with Touratech Locking Mount - 12V Accessory plug: for running mini air compressor, heated vest and charging electronics Maintenance done before the start of the trip - Engine Rebuild with new transmission parts and gaskets all around - New Oil and Oil Filter with Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 Synthetic - Valve Clearance Check - New EBC Front and Rear Brake Pads - Bleeded Front and Rear Brake Fluid - Cleaned and oiled K&N Air Filter http://jamminwithjay.com/images/0908...na_profile.jpg I've done all the above modifications and maintenance to improve my chances of how sanDRina will behave while we're out on the road. Some items will improve her performance, while others will add to my comfort and increase my usability. Not everything above is necessary before a motorcycle trip like this, but it gives me a better peace of mind, so that I can enjoy my journey more. __________________________________ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Why am I doing this? Professional: I'd like to make a career switch from engineering into humanitarian affairs and will be studying for a distance masters in Sustainable Development from the University of London during this trip. I hope to get first-hand knowledge of the various humanitarian needs through the regions I'll be traveling through, which will help me choose an area to get involved in at the end of the journey, such as water resources, appropriate technology, etc. I hope to use this trip as a stepping-stone to the next chapter in my life. Personal: I was bitten by the travel bug at an early age and this trip will be a culmination of many years of planning, researching and dreaming. Having traveled in small bits and pieces to various countries, I'd like to see more of our beautiful Planet Earth and I'm at a point in my life that this is feasible. Why so long for the trip, 2 years? The general route is dictated by the regional climate, meaning that I'm trying to avoid the rainy season in most places along with extreme temperatures (height of summer and winters). From this data, two years to circulate around Latin America and Africa allows me to synchronize nicely with the seasonal climate. Also, I need enough down time to get some studying done. I'm planning to ride for a few days, then stop for a few days, see some sights and get some reading done for my courses. In addition, in my research for this trip and through communication with seasoned long-duration travelers, I've learnt that 'the slower you go, the cheaper it gets,' referring to the majority of expenses on these kinds of trips being related to transportation (self or public). Staying in places longer will reduce my average daily costs, allowing me to stretch the dollar and travel for longer. Why on a motorcycle instead of a car? Besides the old adage of "four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul," benefits of motorcycle travel over automotive: - overall cheaper cost, initial and running (better gas mileage, cheaper maintenance). - simpler regarding complexity of machine; I am able to fully tear-down my motorcycle and perform most repairs on it with relatively few tools. - size; I need only about 4 ft to get through with my motorcycle, compared to at least 8 ft for a car. This could be a narrow bridge, a goat path road up into the mountains or around fallen debris on the road. - versatility; a motorcycle, especially a dual-sport one, is able to traverse over most any surface including wading through 2 feet of water (rivers). - openness; us riders jokingly refer to car drivers as 'cagers' as in the driver is caged in the car compared to being exposed and out in the open on a bike. Car drivers will probably see this as a downside, however once you become a rider, you'll see this as a positive. Yes, you have to brave the elements, but with appropriate gear, comfort can be achieved in most weather situations and feeling the wind against you makes you feel more connected to your local surroundings compared to being nicely cocooned in a car. - friendliness; the vulnerability of being open on a bike allows curious strangers to approach and make a new friend. Will I be carrying a gun or other lethal weapons for self-defense? No. Firstly, it's highly illegal to cross borders, especially across developing countries with weapons of any kind as this will be seen as a threat and quickly lead me to the local jail, which I don’t want. I also feel that weapons can quickly escalate situations unnecessarily. I'm more on the Buddhist side of the spectrum and believe in soft power; going in with a smile, being friendly and respectful can diffuse most confrontations. Of course, there will be some situations where a weapon might be useful, but I will deal with them as they arise. With my travel experience to date, I've learnt to be aware of my security in all situations; not being paranoid, but just being aware - making sure I'm not being followed, looking for exits from crowded places, recognizing unsafe parts of a new city, etc. I will try my best not to attract attention by flashing money or fancy gadgets in hopes of deterring common mugging. While I'll be hiding money in various places on me and on the bike, I will only have small change easily accessible along with a false wallet (with expired ID and credit cards) to easily hand over if I'm being mugged. I'll also be using my brown skin to my advantage, hoping to pass off for a local in most places (the world's going beige :p ). After learning Spanish, I'm sure I could easily pass for a regional citizen in most of South America. I'll have to pick up Portuguese for Brazil. I might still stand out around Africa (I do know French for West Africa), but since there are so many Indians everywhere who migrated many generations ago, I might still pass off for a resident. I do have mace/bear spray that I bought for bears in Alaska, but it wont be practical to be walking around everywhere with it. I'll still be taking it when I head off into the wilderness for protection against animals. Where will I be staying? Primarily it will be hostels and cheap hotels along the way and camping where possible, but I will be looking to stay with locals as much as I can. There are different avenues that I will be using to get in touch with people willing to host passing travelers, as it will be a more enriching experience to meet and stay with locals. I have done this on all my previous trips and made many new friends along the way. Resources: ADVrider.com Tent Space List, HorizonsUnlimited.com Communities, and CouchSurfing.org (similar concept to the previous two resources, but open to the general public, not just riders). How am I funding this trip/lifestyle choice? I lived frugally while I was working in the US for a major corporation and saved and invested my earnings with this trip in mind. However, its not a lot and I'll be looking to stretch the dollar as best as I can and am open to donations :) If you feel you're getting something useful from my trip report, please consider a small donation (paypal button on website) towards petrol or a meal on the road. Thanks. How will I get access to money? ATMs are widely available in all major cities and that will be the safest way to withdraw funds. I've chosen banks that don't charge ATM widthdrawl fees or at least, charge very little. Where possible, in safe locations, I will use my Capital One credit card, specifically because they don't charge any foreign transaction fees and give good exchange rates. What about the health risks? I've taken all the recommended immunizations (yellow fever, hepatitis a/b, typhoid, etc) and will be highly conscious of the food and water that I drink. In general, as long as it's hot and cooked in a relatively clean place, it'll be safe to eat. I love eating from roadside shacks and haven't gotten sick, yet. Plus, growing up in developing countries has probably left me with a pretty good immune system that hasn't been weakened by my time in the US. I'll be using a LifeSaver Water Filter that can filter out practically all viruses and bacteria and other water soluble contaminants. I will be carrying first-aid supplies and with a mother and sister being doctors, immediate advice is only a phone call away. What if I get sick? Diarrhea is probably the most common illness to plague travelers and I'm aware of how to tackle it (oral rehydration solution). Besides that, preventing mosquito bites will go a long way in disease prevention and I plan to use appropriate repellent where needed. Do I have medical insurance? I won’t be having any medical insurance since it doesn't seem to be practical for me being an Indian citizen. The costs for travelers from India is quite exorbitant and just paying for medical care as it rises will be a more cost effective strategy. I looked into medical evacuation insurance but currently that only applies to North American residents and once I leave the US, I give up my residency there. What if something breaks on the motorcycle or I get a flat tire? Over the past few years, in preparation for this trip, I have learnt how to properly maintain and repair most any breakdowns, including fixing flat tires and mounting a new tire. I will be carrying specific tools such as a chain-breaker for more complex servicing. Do I know anybody in these countries that I'll be traveling through? Not yet, but I'm likely to once the journey gets started. What does "Jammin" mean and what's its significance? "Jammin" is the username I selected when I joined my local Chicago sportbike forum and its significance has to do with Bob Marley's feel good song with a positive pulse. It's significance also stems from my constant need to have music playing, which is one of the reasons why I like long motorcycle trips as it allows me to listen to lots of music while bobbing down the road with my noise-isolating etymotic er-6i earphones. How will I stay in touch, communicate? Internet cafes are ubiquitous the world over and getting online should not be a problem. I will be updating this blog along with twitter and facebook every few days or whenever I get a good internet connection. I will also be traveling with an international roaming SIM card to make important phone calls and will be using skype for free webcam calls to my parents, so that my mom can see that I'm alive and well. How will I cross from South America to Africa? I'd like to take this 3 week journey on a cargo ship (Grimaldi RORO) from Buenos Aires but there are some logistical issues with that idea, so I might end up flying across, putting the bike on a pallet in the cargo compartment. When am I coming back to the US? I'm not sure. Isn't Africa really dangerous? Don’t they still eat people there? LOL Yes, Africa is less developed than the rest of the world but that immediately doesn't make it more dangerous. There are dangerous places all over the world, including in your home town and one just needs to be aware of them and take the right precautions. And besides, I spent 8 years of my childhood in a remote corner of southern Africa and I can tell you it's a beautiful place with warm, friendly people. Wont I miss home and my bed and all the other comforts? Having lived in Zambia soon after birth and then growing up in India, "home" is a concept I've learned to adapt to wherever I happen to be at that moment in time. On my short motorcycle trips up to this point, I've noticed that I did not miss the comforts of my home even when things were going bad, so I think I'll be fine. I'm aware of "traveler's fatigue" and with an open-ended journey like this, I should be able to slow down and break the journey for a while if I need to. Yes, I'm going to miss my kitchen as cooking is a highly pleasurable activity, but I think I can fulfill that desire on this journey. I gave up watching regular TV a few years back and thus won’t be missing any programming, besides watching Formula 1 races. I will miss having almost instant access to high-speed internet, being part of the "plugged-in" generation, but I'll learn to live without it. I will miss my friends and I don't like to say goodbyes as the friendship doesn't need to end there and hopefully we can meet in the future. If you have any other questions, do let me know. |
Bike Preparation
I know they are mechanics all along the way through South America and Africa but I wanted to replace some parts and do some preventative maintenance on my own time and not be rushed, unlike having to do it enroute after things fails. I know things are going to fail that I didn't anticipate, but I'll handle them as they arise. First up, I replaced all the bearings: front and rear wheel and swing arm bushings. I'm a decent wrench myself, but I know when some tasks are beyond my abilities for lack of experience or proper tools. I have a good mechanic friend, Gus who helped immensely in all the following tasks. He lived 80 miles from me (on the other side of Chicagoland) but it was worth it as he taught me a lot about how to service the bike if I need to on my own down the road. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809033371_XyHrY-L.jpg Removing the swing arm from the bike to access the swing arm bearings (as it pivots on the frame). http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809034044_qNUgz-L.jpg That's Gus heating up the swing arm... http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809034457_PJoWs-L.jpg ...to plop in the new bearings. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809034585_gp9TQ-L.jpg The rear wheel bearings. The bike had 26,000 miles and the bearings probably would've lasted another 10K or so miles, but the factory bearings aren't sealed and look at all that crud and rust that gets in there. I put in new All Balls bearings that are sealed on both sides. These should last for the next 30-40K miles at least. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809035028_RRpJB-L.jpg Heating up the rear wheel hub. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809034673_w3X2J-L.jpg Putting in the new All Balls bearings and dust seals. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809035273_JiL9t-L.jpg Eww, the rear sprocket bearing, haha. I then planned to rebuild the Front Forks (new oil and seals), but started reading about a potential issue in the transmission of the DR650 and figured a full engine rebuild would do me good. For certain model years, the 3rd Drive Gear in the transmission is known to fail unexpectedly and as a precaution you can replace it with a newer part. I figured a rebuild would be good as well to take a look at all the engine internals and see if there were any other problems that might arise down the road, and if I was going in, I thought I might as well replace the piston and rings and other aged parts, such as the plastic oil pump gear. I also had the cylinder head rebuilt to restore compression. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809039317_TWaJR-L.jpg The engine removed from the frame. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809043759_iTQnv-L.jpg This is probably as naked as she'll ever be :) The forks removed from the frame. One can see how simple a motorcycle the DR650 is. That's a big reason why I chose this bike - it's not too complicated and it's very basic in its design, because it just works. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809041321_5rSpe-L.jpg Cycling the new fork oil. That's Nick who came to hang out while I was down there. He's an amateur sport bike racer and participates in CCS races on a Suzuki SV650. Him and Gus are constantly rebuilding SV motors. These guys said they would be factory support for me on my trip and if I needed any parts sourced and shipped, they were ready to help. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809041415_AgTHt-L.jpg Slipping on the new seals. Using some plastic to prevent the seals from catching a sharp edge and tearing. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809040716_Ktqud-L.jpg Slipping on the new seals. Using some plastic to prevent the seals from catching a sharp edge and tearing. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809040624_LdGnx-L.jpg Setting the new seals in. Now the engine rebuild: http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809039415_uSVpX-L.jpg The engine on its bench, where it would be for the next 2 months as the rebuild went on for longer than expected as we waited for the right parts to be shipped. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809043653_yNFVS-L.jpg The old piston at 26K miles. Not bad. Replaced it with a new forged aluminum Wossner piston (stock compression). http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809081982_BWgKL-L.jpg The rebuild required a few special tools, such as this generator rotor remover (50 mm threaded pipe). Had to wait a few weeks for the right part to arrive. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809083345_wcsrE-L.jpg Splitting the engine cases required a plate that a threaded rod when turned would lift the outer case up. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809083591_4qrLv-L.jpg When everything was set just right, it was magical to see the cases come apart with so little effort - hand turning the rod to split the cases. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809083939_BKY3q-L.jpg Voila, the insides of a DR650 engine. Simplicity shows through again. It's a single cylinder, so a sole piston spins the crankshaft around and the transmission is built into the engine case (like in most motorcycles). http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809084170_mHodH-L.jpg The transmission gears. The part to be replaced is in the middle of the left stack. It looked fine and there was no unexpected signs of wear on any other parts. Even the cylinder walls with their Nikasil coating looked perfect. I was pleased that everything in the engine was running as expected and looked normal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809085173_7SU5X-L.jpg The clutch also looked like it had very minimal wear, so I didn't replace it and will do so as needed down the road, probably in Argentina. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809085422_7p4eV-L.jpg Putting the engine back together. Spinning the clutch basket on. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809086000_rdDAH-L.jpg Re-assembling the cylinder head. Cam chain in place. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809086144_w4bYK-L.jpg That right there is one mighty fine rebuilt DR650 engine. If something happens along the way, I'm not too worried about going in and working on it, but let's hope it doesn't come to that. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809086260_SHRfT-L.jpg Shifting through the gears to make sure everything works as intended. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809087052_7Xbij-L.jpg Getting the engine back in the frame with the help of my friend, Cesar who acted like an engine hoist while I positioned the engine to get the mounting bolts through. |
After getting the bike maintenance tasks done, it was onto other setup tasks on the bike.
http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809095749_RChQK-L.jpg Cleaning the sludge that had built up on the skid plate as it came from the previous owner. Mostly chain lube and probably engine oil. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809095837_DCe38-L.jpg 30 minutes later with lots of kerosene (great cleaning solvent) and elbow grease. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809096056_Qq5Wn-L.jpg Installing a Stebel Nautilus Compact horn - super loud aftermarket horn, 139 dB - so that I can be heard among all the trucks and traffic chaos along the way. Reading other travelers' reports, I noted that most of them wished they had a louder horn. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809096766_4ZaEV-L.jpg It barely fits under the Aqualine Safari tank and the front fender needed to be cut for clearance. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809099410_ENo3h-L.jpg Aligning the horn to make it as level as possible as it's only supposed to be +/- 15 degrees to function optimally. I'm using an app on my Android phone (Motorola Cliq) that utilizes the built-in accelerometer. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809099532_thTsn-L.jpg Installed with the relay and heavy duty wires. The Stebel draws a lot of current to produce that loud noise and thick wires are needed. They only require 14 gauge wire but I had some 12 gauge lying around, so used that liberally to ensure no melted wires. I'm also keeping the stock horn and switching between them as needed because the loudness of the Stebel might not be needed in all situations. While the horn is loud, it has sort of a fruity two-tone very Euro truck sound and makes you smile when you hear it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809099965_Bwzmy-L.jpg Using heat shrink on all the connections. Looking at the bottom of the horn. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809097507_drxpo-L.jpg Enjoying the many months spent in my garage fabricating devices for the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809098992_2DYka-L.jpg Setting up a 10 W, 0.6 Amp solar panel on my top box to provide additional electrical juice to recharge my laptop and other electrically gadgets. My bike doesn't produce enough electrical power to safely charge things while on the bike and I'm expecting to be in some remote places with no electrical connections and would still like access to my laptop during those times. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809098724_HcCzk-L.jpg Making some brackets to secure the solar panel to my top box. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809098083_zMwkS-L.jpg Getting the s-bend was a little tricky not having a proper vice, but this rig worked out. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809099297_nVsUS-L.jpg Painting the solar panel black, because it's got to look good :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809112531_VEN99-L.jpg Connecting the solar panel into the top box. I used RTV silicone on the edges of the panel to provide some dampening. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809100848_hbPLb-L.jpg Fabricating a switch box. I've always wanted some switches to control various things on the bike and finally found a nice aluminum box that would do the trick. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809100969_yikQi-L.jpg Rounding off the drilled holes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809102353_7UELQ-L.jpg The solar charge control module, covered in silicone RTV for electrical and mechanical insulation. This board makes sure the DC output from the solar panel is in a healthy range (12-14 V) and also prevents the reverse flow of power to the panel at night. The board also features a trickle charger that I plan to use if not riding the bike for a long time to keep the bike's battery healthy. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809104732_GgnkY-L.jpg I drew up an extensive wiring diagram and set about creating all the little jumper cables and appropriate wires needed to execute this project. It took about a month to fully complete. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809107279_VPorQ-L.jpg The Solstice LED lights' power source switch. Besides just charging electronics on the bike, I've also setup the LED lights to be either powered by the bike or the solar panel so that during the day I can have the LED lights on providing a wider frontal light foot print without drawing more power from the bike's battery. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809109964_mKYf7-L.jpg The switch box all wired up and ready to go. I made a bracket that comes off the Vapor Tech mount. And the nice thing was that everything worked as intended on the first try. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809101061_aca2o-L.jpg Every electrical connection was bathed in dielectric grease (to help keep moisture out from corroding the contact) and where possible, the connection was wrapped in insulating heat shrink tubing (I had lots of it that came with my tool box, so might as well use it up). http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809105505_h3PsR-L.jpg And with so much heat shrink tubing still left, I decided it wouldn't hurt to protect other connectors on the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809106149_UZYuT-L.jpg Snug and insulated. Hope I don't need to disconnect that connector :p http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809106704_tQYEp-L.jpg Heat shrinking all other blade-style connectors before assembling in the switch box. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809108157_4kkRj-L.jpg Running all electrical gadgets through a Centech AP-2 fuse panel so that if someone does go wrong it wont affect my bike's main electronics. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809108783_ccqnZ-L.jpg The Centech AP-2 fuse panel positioned under the seat, above the air box. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809114815_Teytk-L.jpg My dash board almost complete (the LED lights haven't been secured in this picture). http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809120138_K2jBV-L.jpg The switch box. First two from the left are on/off for the two Solstice LED auxillary lights. Next up is power source for the LED lights and master on/off for both lights and main head light on/off. Then it's the voltage monitor for the bike's battery or the solar panel output and the horn switching from the stock horn to the Stebel, both running through the switch on the handle bar. Next is heated grips and solar panel battery trickle on/off and last is power source on/off for 12V sockets under the seat and in the top box. And a note to self :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809115697_pTXJu-L.jpg The solar panel installed and the bike coming together. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809117823_RuZvZ-L.jpg A lexan cover for the solar panel, held down with 3M dual lock velcro. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/809107389_5kWmp-L.jpg My paint booth. Spraying clear coat on the front fender to prevent rock chips in the paint. It was freezing cold outside, so yeah, there wasn't much proper ventilation but I wore a make-shift breath mask and hopefully didn't lose too many brain cells :p |
Last Days Before Leaving
With the bike all setup and packed, the last few days before leaving the house was as expected hectic. Moving out of the house I lived in for the last 4 years required help from friends as there was more to throw away than expected and I guess I couldn't bare to throw away so many useful things. The house, car (Mini Cooper) and sport bike (Suzuki GSX-R600) were sold and besides the DR, the only possessions I was keeping were my Definitive speakers, racing leathers and one suitcase of photo albums and things that couldn't be thrown away that was going to be shipped home to India. I had been selling as many things as I could on craigslist and ebay over the past few months, liquidating all my possessions but there were still so many things of value that I felt bad about throwing in the trash. Anything useful was donated to the Salvation Army and I got my friends to take a lot of things like furniture and posters. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...98_bh3ef-L.jpg My good friend Allen helping clean out the kitchen. Besides the garage, the kitchen is what I'm going to miss the most, being a cook. Felt bad throwing away so many spices and other cooking items :( The last few months leading up to the trip start I tried to finish up all the food in the kitchen, but I could only get so far. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...57_HcSsz-L.jpg Almost empty kitchen. So many good memories from parties and Thanksgiving dinners here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...25_Zfnaa-L.jpg Kristen is a pro photographer in the making and she wanted to do a photo shoot with the bike playing with lights and such. Her and Allen helped me a lot in the last few days getting things out of the house and helping me organize. She also helped by taking a lot of my furniture and movie posters. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...33_iBb5e-L.jpg One of my favorite songs and I love the guitar solo in the extended version. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...06_4cM8F-L.jpg Taking away my movie posters http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...50_ixmym-L.jpg Making runs to Salvation Army giving away useful clothes and other household items. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...12_Pnynn-L.jpg Getting rid of my trusty Sidi Vertebrae Tepor boots. 5 years old and about 60,000 miles on them. My riding friends couldn't stand that I had holes in the boots, haha. Wringing as much value as possible out of them. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...44_t7Krs-L.jpg Setting up the bike in the garage for her photo shoot. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...65_QwHKx-L.jpg Kristen having fun with the bike and playing with back lighting. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Prep-1/10-...75_XB7gF-L.jpg One last dumpster run and bye bye Mini, great car for the past 5 years. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_WiYiH-L.jpg My close motorcycle friends at my farewell party. We've been on some great rides around the US and I learnt a lot from these mentors of mine. I hope to do them proud. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_EfGJr-L.jpg Saying good-bye to all my friends from work and around Chicago. They've considered me the crazy biker for riding to Mexico and Alaska and for bouncing off the concept for this trip amongst many of them for the past few years. Everyone was happy to see my dream come into reality. That's it, no more possessions! Feels great to off load everything. |
Photo Shoot
Permit me a few glamour shots that my friend Kristen wanted to take before the trip began. It was still snowing and freezing cold in early March, Chicago. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Profile/Ph...68_nJZbp-L.jpg The bike's fenders and the helmet were originally white and I spray-painted them Olive Green, using Krylon Fusion paints with a clear coat. Yes, I know it's not the most bright and visible color scheme, but I had a vision about the look :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/Profile/Ph...53_sgsBh-L.jpg Setting sun on my last 5 years in Chicago. It's been a great home and I've made many close friends. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Profile/Ph...76_6sX8K-L.jpg Going bald should be useful in the warm climates, but brrr, it's freezing up top for Chicago's winters. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Profile/Ph...91_pT7hp-L.jpg With my close bud, Allen, from New Mexico, who helped me a lot in getting going on this trip and who's taking care of a few things for me back in Chicago while I'm on this trip. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Profile/Ph...81_eh3ZX-L.jpg sanDRina and I ready to head South! http://jammin.smugmug.com/Profile/Ph...61_BmHZd-L.jpg It's not as icy as it looks, was more slushy, but thankfully I didn't drop the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Profile/Ph...44_GAQks-L.jpg A backlit black and white shot of rider and stead. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Profile/Ph...07_HMxN9-L.jpg In action thru foreign lands materializing out of the dark... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Profile/Ph...82_d2jMv-L.jpg My home for the next few years. Let's get rolling! |
First Leg: Chicago to San Francisco
With everything finally buttoned up in Chicago, I was ready to hit the road and head south. I was definitely nervous the last night before leaving as is normal, however, I was now ready and there was nothing to worry about and I actually got some good sleep one last time in my bedroom, on the floor since the bed was sold. :) On the morning of March 5th, I said my good byes to my shelter and life here in Chicago and as I rolled out of the garage one last time, the butterflies in me were free and I was comfortable and excited knowing that there was no turning back to this previous life and I had taken a step into a new chapter. Even though temperatures were about 22F in the morning, I knew things would warm up as I was heading straight south out of Illinois to Memphis. I was riding around the cold and avoiding crossing the high passes of the Rockies because there was still snow up there. The plan for the first leg was to head to San Francisco to regroup at my friend Shridhar's place. We both connected after my Mexico trip and have been discussing this trip since then and I figured I needed a forward staging location, as such, from Chicago so that if something wasn't working on the bike, I could rearrange things before heading for the border. I also shipped a few last minute things to Shridhar that wouldn't have arrived in time. The ride wasn't too cold and I was happy to be jammin to my tunes, on my motorcycle, heading south. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_4t6d7-L.jpg Stayed with Gabe in Memphis on the first night through CouchSurfing and we went out for a nice dinner on Balboa in the downtown area. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_wyeiK-L.jpg I'm going to miss the Mid-West. Check out the crazy headline, haha. Somewhere in Arkansas. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_tZSHE-L.jpg Seeing my first long horn in Forth Worth, Texas. Even though I lived just a few hours south while going to Texas A&M, never saw a proper long horn. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_rrsSf-L.jpg James, my host from ADV (texasyeti) with the full horns. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...86_rfDZa-L.jpg He treated me out to an awesome steak dinner at the revived stockyard and I like it rare. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_KbD6G-L.jpg James has a few bikes and here is a classic BMW Dakar. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_NNqBJ-L.jpg And he's a dog person. Dog people are always good people in my books. Cute beagle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_BhqtJ-L.jpg His other dog is this cute pit bull, Gidget. They're such lovely dogs and too bad they suffer a bad reputation. I lived with one for a while that a housemate had and really enjoyed how smart and lovable those dogs are. Pouring over a map to see what excitement lay ahead as I went through West Texas heading to Las Cruces. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_snDm6-L.jpg Riding into the sun near El Paso, where the road finally got interesting as elevation climbed and the road twisted a bit. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_mwRyo-L.jpg Staying with John from ADV (barko1) in Las Cruces. He also belongs to the purple frame DR club :) And he was actually flying out the next day to Australia to borrow a DR from an ADV member to ride it across from Sydney to Perth. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_u8pMh-L.jpg Heading out into 40F temps and a strong head wind. Just my luck that when I get to the lower latitudes a cold spell swung into place. The head winds were quite strong through Arizona and I figured it was training for the winds of Patagonia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_2v5Qt-L.jpg Staying with Dave from ADV (dave6253) in Phoenix. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_n6a9j-L.jpg He's got a KTM 990 Adventure and an Aprillia sport touring bike. He's a prolific ride report poster on ADV and I got some photo editing tips from him (Adobe Lightroom). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_5NpKs-L.jpg Packing up the bike in the morning. Here comes living out of a pannier for the next few years. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_KmkD5-L.jpg Leaving Dave's house under the auspiciousness of grand saguaro cacti. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_oqpqv-L.jpg Taking US-60 across west Arizona towards California. Wasn't that exciting but had to change it up from riding so much Interstate. Battling head winds all day long. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...45_eEDTY-L.jpg At least all that wind was being put to good use here in eastern California at this massive sprawling wind farm. There must'be been over a hundred windmill towers and they were all spinning fast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_GngxG-L.jpg Staying at David from ADV (scorpion)'s lair in the high desert outside Los Angeles in Landers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_aTL7A-L.jpg Cooking up a spaghetti and pinto bean meal after a chilly and windy day. Winds were battling hard all night and I got up once to make sure the bike hadn't been blown over. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_qpjpW-L.jpg Heading north through California up to the Bay Area. I didn't realize the pass between Mojave and Bakersfield would be as cold as it was. It was snowing and sleeting at just 4,000 ft. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_44jcq-L.jpg Staying with Chris in San Jose, whom I met and rode with on my Alaska trip. He recently moved into this great location right on top of a small hill. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_UgAfa-L.jpg He keeps hassling me to just get a BMW and be done with it, haha. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_nx8pb-L.jpg Meeting up with Shridhar in Silicone Valley, where he works for Paypal now. Had lunch that day with Rajen, an old high school friend who works for Yahoo there. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_EiPjE-L.jpg Riding the beautiful Skyline Drive through the hills from San Jose to San Francisco. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_RNmmD-L.jpg And finally making it to the west coast and the Pacific Ocean. I'm going to be seeing a lot of her as I head down south and looking forward to it as I just love coastal riding; something about all that water and vastness. |
San Francisco
I took a couple days off the bike to catch up on things that I didn't get done before heading out and servicing the bike at a mechanic friend's place of Shridhar. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_u9qE7-L.jpg Having dinner at Charange (cuban, latin) and meeting up with old friends and new friends from ADV. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_tQKGx-L.jpg Shridhar and I doing the touristy things. But hey, it's a beautiful bridge. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_BdhM5-L.jpg Enjoying the first of many beautiful sunsets over the Pacific. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_ZHaEU-L.jpg Rounding off the evening with a drink at Cliff House. Single malt scotch is my bevarage of choice. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_wdxRH-L.jpg Pizza on Haight and Asbury: pesto with potato and garlic. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_u8Kho-L.jpg Having some South Indian food at Udipi since I know it's going to be tough to find this in Latin America. There's probably Indian restaurants down there, but specially South Indian cuisine is definitely more rare. This is a dosa and it's 2ft long and paper thin. It's a rice flour crepe that you dip into lentil soups and various chutneys. It was heavenly. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_xFbUj-L.jpg Shridhar had the Chole Batura, a huge fried puri (fluffy bread) that goes with garbanzo/chick pea curry. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_yayzs-L.jpg Shridhar with all his toys. That's a para motor strapped onto the Miata and his V-Strom in the back. He also has a DR, not pictured. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_XHqrs-L.jpg Spending a few days at Stewar's place, a friend of Shirdhar who offered to help service the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_LYE6v-L.jpg Mounting a new chain and the Motio Pro Chain Breaker and Riveting tool worked like a charm. Using a grinder to file down the rivets here. Hopefully the new chain lasts me through Buenos Aires. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_rJsuP-L.jpg Putting on new tires, Kenda K761 with heavy duty inner tubes to reduce the chance of punctures. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_2JNKC-L.jpg The old Kenda K270's that came off the bike. This is after 9,000 miles and I think it could've gone another 2,000 but figured best to change it when things were not rushed and had access to a shop at my own pace. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_2UMy7-L.jpg Elongating the valve stem hole, as advised by world traveler Adam (shortwayround.co.uk) to relieve stress on the valve stem to further tube life. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_wkatk-L.jpg Stewart was a big help and he said he was glad to help me get on my way as he'd like to make a big trip someday himself. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_VGKTi-L.jpg He has a bunch of bikes in his garage and loves tinkering on them. That's a classic Moto Guzzi out there. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_kUrHU-L.jpg And I forget what kind of bike this is, but looks like a beautiful cafe racer in the making. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_ZEkZS-L.jpg Taking a test ride around the city. Lots of great architecture. I'm all done in San Francisco and ready to hit the road again. I like this city and would definitely like to live here at some point in the future. Heading south to Paso Robles and then onto San Diego. |
San Francisco, Part 2
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...68_DwUwV-L.jpg On my way out of San Francisco the first time I realized I didnt take too many pictures of the city and snapped some off on Van Ness street. The War Memorial Opera House. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...10_SB7iV-L.jpg San Francisco City Hall. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...33_Smpp4-L.jpg Coming down Highway 1, buzzing along in the bright sun, thinking the trip is finally moving again and... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...37_3C2Kw-L.jpg just south of Half Moon Bay, engine goes quiet and I lose all drive. Starter motor would spin but no turn over of the crank. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...90_Rh8RP-L.jpg Looked insde the vavle area and saw the cam chain not moving and traced back with the help of my mechanic friend Gus on the phone that it was due to my miss-assembly of the cam chain tensioner when I was servicing the engine. Big oopsy. Lots of engine damage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...92_eL5Zp-L.jpg Shridhar called his friend Jul (Yule) to come to the rescue and take me back to San Francisco to figure out what to do. He's a bike guy, as well. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...05_RePvh-L.jpg The next morning, I took the bike to Werkstatt to get their opinion on how serious the damage was and they recommended a new engine instead of trying to fix this one. Shridhar agreed to part with his DR since he wasn't riding it much. The bike was stuck in a shop, so in the down time, Jul took me around to see the other bike shops in town. This is Subterranean. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...39_wPKhG-L.jpg We finished the bike tour with a visit to Dudley Perkins Harley-Davidson, a very prominent Harler dealer with a few bikes there setup as museum pieces. This is a 1957 KR Roadracer. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...95_9yGaB-L.jpg A 1924 JD Harley-Davidson. The 1st twin cam hill climber engine. Built my Tom Sifton. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...15_bGFvB-L.jpg A 2 storey wall of Harley engine history. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...57_gpd26-L.jpg Took a nice ride north of the Bay Area with Jul and his riding friends and this is at the Sonoma Lake overlook. Shridhar lent me his Suzuki V-Strom since he was out of town that weekend. Nice bike to ride. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...02_oAPy3-L.jpg Riding the awesome Skaggs Springs Road and other twisties in the area. Lots of rough, tight, technical turns. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...51_pWAvQ-L.jpg During our lunch stop in Guerneville, a second Honda Trans Alp pulls up after seeing Jul's modified Trans Alp. The second owner said he had never seen another TA out on the road. Jul is quite the bike modifyer and has a motor from a Honda Nighthawk, I think 750 in there and calls his creation the Trans-hawk. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...45_mCAQ8-L.jpg Taking a coffee break at Wild Flour Bread Bakery near Occidental, where they make some tasy artisan bread. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...86_VzvFR-L.jpg Jul and his friend Riccardo, who's studied Mexican law and told me to contact him for any legal help down there. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...22_fkj38-L.jpg Stopping by Roy Brizio's shop, a well-known custom hod rod car builder. The shop is open for anyone to walk through. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...88_3RN49-L.jpg Lots of famed history here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...10_2MkqD-L.jpg A near-finished car (someone help me identify what kind this is). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...30_iFRvh-L.jpg A little earlier in the assembly stage: engine in the frame. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...71_YvAhE-L.jpg A classic pickup truck. And Jul said they were making their own stamped aluminum body parts. |
DR Engine Swap
Mike came forward on ADVrider after hearing my engine issues and offered to help with the engine swap. He was only about 10 mins away from Jul's place, so I moved my DR there and then went down to San Jose to pick up Shridhar's DR from a shop there. He had some carb issues but otherwise the engine was known to be running good. Mike and I worked straight through the evening to complete the engine swap. We started about 6 pm and had both motors pulled by about 9 pm. After a good dinner break, we got to putting the new motor in my DR and fired it up at around 3 am. We wrenched diligently with no rush and made no mistakes. It was satisfying to have the motor fire up on the first try. However, she wasn't idling too well and I took her to Werkstatt the next morning to have them look her over and Daniel there showed me the Air Speed Screw that I didn't know about, which was out too far making the air/fuel mixture too rich. With a few adjustments, sanDRina was running smooth and I was on my way out of San Francisco. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...39_W9Gow-L.jpg Mike working on Shirdhar's bike. His apartment building came with access to this big underground garage area with enough space to work on the bikes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...21_nR79o-L.jpg Both the motors out of the frames. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...81_ATWZS-L.jpg A Captain moment, arrgh. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...34_RHJLF-L.jpg Goodbye original engine. Sorry to end your life so soon, but sounds like you'll get a second lease pretty soon (Procycle is taking this lump off my hands). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...09_SVUxq-L.jpg Getting the donor motor in my frame. We both gained more experience in DR engine swaps this night. Back in the motor through the left side and then turn in once it's in the frame and then line up the engine mounts. Easy as pie. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...59_QKrnx-L.jpg Getting friendly with the new motor. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...38_4zub3-L.jpg She fired up on the first shot. Yeah baby, sanDRina rides again! All done at 3 am. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Travel/10-...11_TTgbN-L.jpg Taking her to Werkstatt to fine tune the idle and air/fuel mixture settings. 15 mins worth of their time and sanDRina was purring smoothly. Time to head out of San Francisco. It was a good two weeks spent here and I enjoyed the city, but iching to get further south. |
Riding the California Coastline
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...90_Pbcu5-L.jpg El Pacifico. Riding the beautiful Pacific Coastal Highway south from San Francisco. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_aaXG9-L.jpg Oh yeah :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_HiYrJ-L.jpg This was definitely some epic landscape, especially with the lighting towards dusk. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...06_NQkMn-L.jpg The historic Bixby Bridge, built in 1932. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_paHPn-L.jpg Can't get tired of this view. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_6sgHU-L.jpg Looking back north with Bixby Bridge in view. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_uyNXf-L.jpg The sun coming through the heavy clouds made for wonderful lighting. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_HeQY8-L.jpg A hilly island right on the coast, near San Simeon. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_eAJ9i-L.jpg Staying with ADVer John in Paso Robles. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_bzR9Z-L.jpg Riding Hwy 101 down the coast towards San Diego. This is just north of Los Angeles. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_S29L9-L.jpg Passing under a Delta 757 landing at the always busy LAX (Los Angeles Airport) (am also an aviation enthusiast). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_Z8DWQ-L.jpg As dreaded as freeway riding is, I'm definitely going to miss how well organized and easy to use the US Interstate system is. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_YWUnN-L.jpg Uggh, this is the widest freeway I've ridden, 7 lanes! This is in southern LA where I-405 and I-5 meet. Traffic wasn't bad, only backed up twice and with bikes being allowed in the carpool lane and with lane-splitting, it was no problem. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_FpWBY-L.jpg Catching Hwy 101 back on the coast near San Diego. I was heading to meet my friend Ruben who moved out from Chicago. |
Weekend in San Diego
Getting closer to the Mexican border, my friend Ruben in San Diego invited me to come over and ride Palomar Mountain, a heavenly road for sport bike riders. He moved out from Chicago a few years ago and while there he founded DRILL (Ducati Riders of Illinois) and got invited a few times by Ducati to their headquarters for club presidents' meetings and got to ride beautiful Italian sportbikes through the twisty roads there. He then moved onto vintage Honda motorcycles and currently has a '65 CB160 and a '74 CB200, which is his wife Barabara's daily rider. We planned to take the bikes out for a day ride to Palomar Mountain. His primary bike is a Honda XL650. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822493162_zCpm3-L.jpg Getting some good eat at Pokez, a popular Mexican eatery. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822524618_7txLC-L.jpg I tried to find a spare rear sprocket for the DR and we went around to a few dealerships but no one had it in stock. This is at Fun Bike Center and a handsome looking Suzuki GSX-R race bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822524786_xenSy-L.jpg The grand daddy of all modern repli-race sport bikes, the Suzuki GSX-R750. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822494787_v7yRq-L.jpg A cute little Honda Coupe from the 70's for sale at the dealership. Was going for $4500. Why are cars so huge these days? :p http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822495161_YfnCF-L.jpg Ruben and Barbara's loft in downtown San Diego. A very cool living space. The building was originally used for trucks exchanging cargo back in the day. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822494889_877zv-L.jpg They adopted this adorable doberman, simply called D. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822495021_fDsWL-L.jpg D and Barbara. He was so well behaved (actually Ruben was holding a treat on top of the camera). http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822495628_sWMYd-L.jpg It's nice meeting all these supposedly aggressive types of dogs (from media impressions) who turn out to be such soft-hearted puppies. The fact that they (pit bulls, dobermans, etc) are so loyal and smart can be used by malicious owners to make aggressive dogs, but owners with good intentions can let out the true happy nature of these dogs. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822495888_g6Hwf-L.jpg Barbara on her Honda CB200, warming her up for the day's ride. She usually rides with all the proper safety gear when she commutes. Ruben got the bike for $200 at a county fair and she required only a bit of work to be up and running. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822496094_S5Eh2-L.jpg Ruben and I setting off for Palomar Mountain Road with me riding the CB160. The gas tanks are only 2 gallons on these little gals. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822496275_ZuJz3-L.jpg We met up with Silvano, Ruben's riding friend from Chicago who's from San Diego, riding a recently acquired Ducati 996 superbike. I was riding the CB160 for all she was worth on the highway (probably 70 mph) and then lost about half my power. As with most vintage bikes, they need a bit of care and can be expected to break down. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822496556_sQAvf-L.jpg We first saw a cut in the fuel line leading into one of the carbs. The vinyl lines looked aged and it cracked at a stress point. Ruben said he would change over to modern rubber hoses. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822497129_PL4KJ-L.jpg But that didn't seem to fix it and she was still running on half power. We opened the float bowl and saw one of the main jets had worked itself lose. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822524923_d6Mrn-L.jpg Dumping the fuel back in. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822496385_pmW2d-L.jpg A cool little tool box on CB160 and kick starter. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822497301_6s4rG-L.jpg Ruben buttoned things up and we were soon on our way to Palomar. The Ducati was like big brother bringing up the rear and looking out for the two little bikes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822497934_GUYBx-L.jpg At the top of Palomar Mountain. Silvano is also into vintage bikes and let me ride his Ducati all day long as he wanted to play around on the CB160. One of my dream bikes and getting to rail with it on one of my dream roads. Perfect. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822498130_yarZD-L.jpg Taking a break at Mother's Kitchen at the top. The CB160 attracted a lot of attention from all the other riders there. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822498412_X6XVq-L.jpg Lots of sport bikes were there and lots of Ducatis too. This is a 1098S and check out clutch cover delete. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822498650_GMJwU-L.jpg A unique exhaust on another 1098S. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822498753_URy8N-L.jpg The two Hondas powering up the hill to the observatory. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822498875_eiRJS-L.jpg Silvano rejoicing in making it to the top. I think the bike produced about 16 hp, but handled pretty good. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822499570_fvZhp-L.jpg The Palomar Observatory housing the Hale Telescope, built in the 1940s was the largest telescope at the time and is the reason the twisty road was built up and over this little mountain for us to enjoy today. Edwin Hubble was given the honor of being the first astronomer to use the telescope and subsequently discoveries were made of quasars, stars in distant galaxies and asteroids close to home. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822499020_bisoJ-L.jpg A scale model of the primary mirror, a single glass cast of 200" in diameter. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822499136_xDHZD-L.jpg A scale model of the telescope. The pieces were built in New York and the large tube had be transported through the Panama Canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822499274_L99ZX-L.jpg Getting a glimpse of the actual telescope. The mirror is in the bottom kitted out with adaptive optics to produce even sharper images of space. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822499498_MHKEC-L.jpg We were at 5,500 ft of elevation and it was quite chilly. Since astronomers primarily do their telescope work at night (dark skies), it can get quite cold and in the early days they used to wear this rudimentary heated suit that military pilots used to wear. Now they have heated rooms. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822499655_bsnh9-L.jpg A beautiful cloud-less day to be out riding. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822499757_Hv4sh-L.jpg A view of the south grade of Palomar Mountain Road. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822499863_Tpezf-L.jpg The classics zipping by. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822499967_DJjta-L.jpg What a joy to ride this wonderful motorcycle on just the kind of roads it was designed for. It was a torture rack on the straight sections but felt just right hanging off in the corners. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822500226_4R6wp-L.jpg And contrasted with these two little run-abouts - racers in their hey days. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822500888_BeACw-L.jpg I thoroughly enjoyed Palomar Mountain and happy to finally have ridden it. Thanks Silvano for letting me ride the wonderful Ducati 996. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822521304_La3yy-L.jpg Heading back to San Diego. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822521604_kJQxp-L.jpg Making it back to the city. Ruben was happy both bikes rode well all day as this was their first long day. The CB160 is having a resurgence as a great vintage racer with a race series in Los Angeles. It might only have 16 hp, but once it gets going, it actually feels pretty good and handles well too. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822523927_wxtLz-L.jpg The CB160 in comparison to my DR650. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822521912_2PqCK-L.jpg The roof top at Ruben's place. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822522556_GiSCR-L.jpg Enjoying a Dunkelweizen beer under the full moon. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822522701_BsQG6-L.jpg Ruben and Barbara grilling out on the roof. Thanks for being such gracious hosts. You made my last few nights in the US really special. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822522872_6HnB9-L.jpg Mmmm, steak and asparagus. http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822522986_TQ3nz-L.jpg Now that's a meal after a good day's ride. Looking forward to the steaks in Argentina... http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822523211_RNdJj-L.jpg Playing with D one last time. Thanks for the wonderful stay Ruben and Barbara. Hope you guys find a nice place with a garage and a companion for D :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/photos/822603220_5SygM-L.jpg Leaving San Diego, heading east into Arizona to cross into mainland Mexico. |
Small Town Charm of Ajo, Arizona
From San Diego, I headed east into Arizona so that I could cross at a small border crossing heading into mainland Mexico. The ride was pleasant, going up and over some mountains and getting to the Sonoran Desert as I neared the small town of Ajo, Arizona. It was 40 miles to the border from here and I would be staying with Gayle from CouchSurfing. I was thinking this would just be an overnight stop and then head to the border but when Gayle found out I was studying sustainable development, she invited me to stay an extra day to see some sustainability initiatives in Ajo, plus she really wanted to show off her town. I was all game for it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_bKmju-L.jpg Gayle and her husband, Don showing me how to play the game of Bananagram, a variant of Scrabble. She's quite the scrabble champ and competes successfully. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_4nJke-L.jpg Each player gets 21 letters... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_PsrvD-L.jpg ...and then it's a race to make a crossword puzzle out of all the letters. "Oxo" is a legal scrabble word, meaning something's that oxygenated. You learn something new everyday. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_CbGkj-L.jpg The next day Gayle took me around the sites of Ajo. This is at the local museum, where her and Don have volunteered most of their time. They're originally from Superior, Wisconsin but after spending a few years teaching in Abu Dhabi, UAE and being entranced by the desert, they decided to move down to the southwest. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_7EHLK-L.jpg Artifacts from the local Tohono O'odham Native American nation. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_VDc2u-L.jpg And since she's a board member of the museum, she gets to ring the old steam train bell. She was just bubbling with so much energy. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_bAm3k-L.jpg A rudimentary TV broadcast system, I think it worked similar to an overhead projector but sending the images over the air. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_hVQyd-L.jpg Hand-written advertisements that were broadcast. Gayle said it was the third such unit in the US at the time (not sure which year exactly, maybe early 1900's). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_LbzFp-L.jpg Ajo came about due to copper mining and was a prosperous town in the 20th century, but since the mine closed in the 1990's, things have slowed down. This is a model of the living quarters of the mine workers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_3ps8w-L.jpg Gayle was quite proud of this display she put together from old telephone wire spools. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_gUcH4-L.jpg Displaying rocks and ore from the area. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_yp2kJ-L.jpg The Ajo Mine. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_K6FJk-L.jpg The Curley School built by the mine in 1919. It's now been converted to living quarters for artists and teachers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_wb7zt-L.jpg The main plaza in Ajo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_u46A7-L.jpg Gayle drove her golf cart all around town, on side walks and anywhere she could squeeze through. She had quite the lead foot, as well :) She really wanted a scooter but Don settled on letting her have this golf cart. Fun way to get around town. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_ZGzoh-L.jpg Next stop was ISDA - the International Sonoran Desert Alliance, an organization aiming to foster stronger ties among all the various groups of people living in the Sonoran Desert in the US and over in Mexico, as it's considered one eco-region. They're also trying to get people to better understand the desert and learn how to thrive here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_K2os3-L.jpg The local ISDA office is supporting a GED program, where kids who've dropped out of school can try and get their high school diploma so that they can carry on with their lives. One of Gayle's friends, Nina started this gardening project to encourage the kids to connect with nature and learn some responsibility by growing plants and taking care of them as they produced vegetables. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_t9Jdx-L.jpg The kids who showed me around their garden and pointed out what was growing on their little plots. They had tomatoes, carrots, lettuce and various flowering plants. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_F7zex-L.jpg Nina instructing some of the other kids. She's worked hard to make vegetables grow in this dry, nutrient-lacking soil. She's trying different techniques, such as sunken-bed plots lined with stone to better retain water and emphasized that they're using only organic materials such as manure for fertilizer. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_inBUZ-L.jpg These are some raised-bed plots with I guess drip-irrigation. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_d8BAk-L.jpg Another form of raised-bed plots. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_ULjLV-L.jpg Rain water harvesting, which is used to water the garden. Water is already a scarce resource in the south-west and looks set to be a bigger and bigger issue in coming years. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_bvsWK-L.jpg A carrot that one of the boys pulled from his plot. They looked really proud of the plots they were managing and rightly so. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_kbpcx-L.jpg With all the vegetables from the garden, today Nina was showing them how to make their own salsa. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_RGsCe-L.jpg They all looked like good kids at heart and happy to see them getting a second chance. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_Mj9rX-L.jpg Speaking with their teacher, Morgana after I gave a little spiel to the class about where I'm from and what kind of foods we eat in India. I was probably their first Indian from India that they saw. Morgana here was in the Peace Corps and spent about 2 years in Namibia and is planning on having a traditional Namibian wedding in the Summer of 2011 (in addition to her US wedding shortly) and that's about when I plan to be in southern Africa, so I was invited. I love unexpected connections. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_LDVsM-L.jpg A textbook for the class. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_D4QDf-L.jpg A interesting project that Morgana recently finished is this Border Project, where she encouraged students in schools separated by present-day political and cultural borders to express their views through mixed media on border issues. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_xiCJU-L.jpg The schools where in Ajo, Arizona, Tohono O'odham Native American Nation and across the border in Sonoyta, Mexico. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...86_ZtUCp-L.jpg Some of the views of the kids. The lines drawn on their faces represent the border. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_WnXRX-L.jpg The artwork of the kids, which was picked up by the Smithsonian Institute as part of a mobile traveling gallery. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_MFAL9-L.jpg Interesting sculpture in the art gallery. A centipede made of mud and rebar. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_PTKUy-L.jpg A donkey fashioned from an ironing board. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_mP2eL-L.jpg That evening Gayle invited Nina and her husband Peter over so that we could cook a meal. Nina is from Slovenia and is finishing up a PhD from a university there and Peter runs a Slovenian translation business over the net. I was the director for the meal and Peter was cutting up the veggies. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_fMd8Q-L.jpg Nina brought over all her spices and the meal that evening was going to be Red Lentil Curry (dahl) with a veggie stir fry of mixed greens plucked fresh from the garden (chard, leeks, etc) along with carrots and sweet potato (one of my favorite veggies) with rice and some steaks. Check out the cute doggie cutting board. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_PhVuZ-L.jpg The lentils and rice cooking. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_6F6qm-L.jpg And here's the food we prepared. Glad to take the "Jammin Cooking Show" on the road :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_KfrEC-L.jpg The spread: steaks prepared by Don, the veggie stir fry, rice and dahl. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_sBUVL-L.jpg Came out quite good and glad I could get my cooking fix. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_CwqH2-L.jpg Gayle and Don's house in Ajo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_6DARq-L.jpg The side attachment where I stayed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_co4VU-L.jpg Gayle's golf cart with teddy bears strapped on. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_VWXxo-L.jpg Their front yard with a bird feeding post. |
Mexico, Part 1: Border to Michoacan
Feeling good about the bike and the trip, I casually crossed the border line and said good bye to America. I was now in the South heading one-way. I'll return some day as a big part of my life happened there with many happy experiences. Being the third time crossing into Mexico, I knew the border process quite well. First to migracion (immigration) to get my passport stamped in, get a tourist travelers permit and then head about 20 kms south to the customs office to temporarily import the bike. Then on, it was riding through the dry and dusty Sonoran desert heading to the Pacific coast. I worked my way down the coast, staying with CouchSurfers along the way. Some of them didn't speak much English and it helped me get immersed in speaking Spanish. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_QKP3U-L.jpg Swinging through one last US National Monument on my way to the Mexican border. I saw quite a few of the US National Parks during my time in the States and they are a treasure to the whole world. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_bztDh-L.jpg Cactus resembling organ pipes; all the branches stemming from one main trunk. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_UXNNX-L.jpg Last few miles of America. The Mexican border is by those mountains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_nbfqr-L.jpg Welcome to Mehico! I crossed at the small border town of Sonoyta. I got my tourist permit and passport stamped and was heading inland to the customs office since 20 kms from the border is a free trade zone to encourage trade with America, where import permits are not needed for vehicles. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_WrjLS-L.jpg Processing the temporary importation of my bike into Mexico. When I leave the country, I need to check my bike out of the country and then check myself out of the country. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_AiHVS-L.jpg Changing money into Mexican Pesos ($1 = 12 Pesos) http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_Lk9P2-L.jpg Riding through the Sonoran Desert of northwest Mexico. There were lots of straight flat roads and a few corners. I was listening to my Spanish audio book and preparing to use it for my first night in Mexico. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_KTnVj-L.jpg Staying in a small hotel in Guyamas on the Pacific Coast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_JcpwX-L.jpg Dinner from a road side burrito shack. Locals were driving up specifically to eat at this stand - always a good sign that the food is good. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_iGGqE-L.jpg If you can see it being prepared, that helps to ensure the food is safe. She spread avocado first, some tomatoes and then fried beef. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...53_h6y2a-L.jpg Putting my feet up and enjoying dinner by the road side. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_UAAf2-L.jpg Mmm, it was good after a long day in the saddle. And it came with a variety of salsas in varying spiciness. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_6vhbL-L.jpg The hotel I was staying at for P180 for which I got the info from my Lonely Planet guide book. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_nrje6-L.jpg Getting secure parking for the bike at the hotel. As long as it's away from prying eyes on the street, it should be safe. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_pA6tZ-L.jpg The only way to get down the coast in some places is to take the toll freeways, which are usually in good condition with adequate signs. Slower traffic stays to the right and I would say most drivers were respectful. Lots of double trailers in Mexico. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...26_UCZN9-L.jpg In some places on the libre road, it was marked as only 2 lanes (1 each way) with a nice wide shoulder on each side, which became a de facto slow lane. Vehicle speeds vary greatly with slow old vehicles and brand new SUVs whizzing by. I was limiting my top speed to 90 kmh (55 mph) and thus was in the slow lane most of the time. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_YRHYv-L.jpg Inscription on the hill: "Jesus Christ is the way". Mexicans in general are a deeply religious people. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_GnhMg-L.jpg A few hills were crossed along the coast, but otherwise the ride wasn't that exciting up north. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_3t6rW-L.jpg I pulled into Los Mochis and saw a RV trailer park that was mostly occupied with Canadian Snow Birds heading back home from Mazatlan for the summer. I got to pitch my tent for P100. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_S2yAu-L.jpg The compound was guarded at night and the setting was quite nice under this beautiful tree. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_Msj4H-L.jpg Having dinner in downtown (centro) Los Mochis. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_soaSX-L.jpg A beef Sope, which is a hard tortilla with a brown paste and then beef and some veggies with cheese on it. Was quite good. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...06_zXH9q-L.jpg The next morning having Birria for breakfast, goat meat stew at a road side restaurant on the highway. This is one of my favorite dishes and I tried to have it as much as I could as it's only available in this region. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...61_a6Z94-L.jpg On the road to Mazatlan. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_j85or-L.jpg Seeing a nice sunset in Mazatlan. The beach was crowded as the next two weekends were national holidays for Easter (Semana Santa). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_kUft9-L.jpg I stayed with CouchSurfer Bryan, an expat from the US who retired to Mazatlan. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_VhGwd-L.jpg In Mexico, when they have a toll road (cuota), they usually provide a free road (libre) heading to the same city. The libre is usually the older way and generally is more fun as it might have more twists in it and go up and over hills. Whilst the cuota is a high-speed 4 lane freeway blasting through the terrain for a hefty price. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_WwumR-L.jpg But still the libre road is in good condition and well signed with distances to the next petrol station and services. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_SWU4w-L.jpg A typical Mexican gas station. The petroleum industry is nationalized in Mexico and there is only one type of petrol station, Pemex, the national oil company. The price of petrol is also the same throughout the whole country (varying by a few cents between some regions) and it's P8 for a litre, which is about $2.50/gallon. The stations are full service with attendants and have free air for tires and water for radiators and there are plenty of them everywhere. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_R3NEE-L.jpg On the way to Puerto Vallarta on Hwy 200, which I would be taking for the next few days down the coast. The roads through here were real fun to ride but traffic was very heavy with inland city dwellers rushing to the coast for the holiday weekend. These were also familiar roads as I came this way during my first trip around Mexico in 2007. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_Y3pzC-L.jpg The foliage was quite dense with no space for shoulders on the road, but it makes for an enjoyable ride, being so close to the trees. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_iYBaC-L.jpg Visiting Sayulita, a surf town near Puerto Vallarta. I stayed here for 2 days on my previous trip and really enjoyed it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_o38xn-L.jpg Staying with CouchSurfer Su in Bucerias, near Puerto Vallarta. Using a bike cover when I can't park the bike in a secure place. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_3vktw-L.jpg We slept on the roof as she had other family friends staying downstairs in the house. They were here for the holiday weekend. It was a good sleep and the mosquito mesh on my tent worked well and I put the tarp on as the humid air produced dew in the morning. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_kpqhg-L.jpg Steps leading to the roof. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_Nzgck-L.jpg Su's backyard, which she's slowly transforming into a garden, hopefully to grow some vegetables. Drying my base layers on the clothes line. I've been rinsing them every night in the shower and since they're synthetic and silk, they dry fast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...79_aov8x-L.jpg Su preparing breakfast. She's a singer and mostly does reggae, ska, punk, etc. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_QeDPq-L.jpg Yummy French Toast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_HcTDk-L.jpg A life quote on her fridge. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_yysdo-L.jpg A nice view from the stove, pondering which countries to travel to. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_AL97h-L.jpg The house was beautifully constructed with brick and the ceiling had curves in it, which Su said helped to keep the house cool. It's a traditional way to build houses in this area. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_dxxM3-L.jpg No A/C needed here. Wonderful coastal winds, natural ventilation. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_Dp4my-L.jpg The road south of Puerto Vallarta turned inland and went through some forests. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_xnrG9-L.jpg Agave plants, that are used in making tequila and mezcal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_vuTvB-L.jpg Staying in a seaside hotel on the Michoacan coast, in San Juan de Alima. I managed to negotiate the price down from P400 to P300. It was getting late and there were no other towns in the area. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_Ci2aY-L.jpg Sleepy town during the day but it was hopping in the evening with holiday traffic. Had to sleep with ear plugs in. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_5BPTT-L.jpg I was getting "meated-out" by having meat with every meal and needed to get some fiber. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_8RBSE-L.jpg Mangoes! Even though they were green on the outside, this variety was very sweet on the inside. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_ZkTuS-L.jpg Breakfast by the ocean of two avocados, a mango and a banana. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_uGrEq-L.jpg The remote Michoacan coastline. There are very few resorts and developments along the coast in this state and there are still many pristine beaches. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...79_YxWQQ-L.jpg On Hwy 200 heading down the Michoacan coast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_ckUYL-L.jpg Enjoying the twisty sections. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_N5wGk-L.jpg The roads are well designed with regards to banking, camber and the pavement is mostly in good condition. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_sYZRX-L.jpg A natural rock arch, carved either by water or uplift. |
Mexico, Part 2: Beaches and Oaxaca
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_VNjnb-L.jpg Camping on the beach in the small surfer's enclave of Barra de Nexpa. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_Ny227-L.jpg Camping for P35. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_LCzK4-L.jpg Beach cabanas. I was invited over by a Canadian who was staying here for a few months and spent the evening on his porch, meeting some locals. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_E4bJa-L.jpg The beach front. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_bh9Wn-L.jpg The beach on one side and mountains right on the coast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_WFDTs-L.jpg Wonderful setting sun rays reflecting of the clouds. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_WyzMY-L.jpg Heading down the coast the next day. A restaurant with a great view. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_hcAMm-L.jpg The coastal highway, heading towards Acapulco. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_GTRk8-L.jpg In Acapulco where the classic VW Beetle is still used as a taxi. It was fun seeing a whole bunch of them buzzing around the city. Most other cities have banned them as they only have 2 doors. Note the zip-ties on the wheel rim. Maybe it's holding the brake rotor on :p http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_B4TgY-L.jpg The Acapulco skyline. My couchsurfing host, Eduardo took me for a driving tour around the city. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_s2vZm-L.jpg I stayed the night with couchsurfer, Eduardo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_N2Z3i-L.jpg Trying to find the free road to Puerto Escondido and I got turned onto the toll road. Arrgh, one last cuota of P25. But the cuota are very nice roads and usually with little traffic, since they are quite expensive for the average person. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_xGjXF-L.jpg Entering the state of Oaxaca (wah-ha-ka), which I was looking forward to as it is less developed than the rest of Mexico and has less traffic. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_Y3AtG-L.jpg All throughout Mexico I saw fires going off and most didn't look like they were controlled. Lots of fires just on the road side, mostly garbage being burnt and also brush clearing. I had to hold my breath through some areas, thick black smoke wafting across the highway. This was the end of the dry season, as the rains will be starting shortly and that's probably helping the easy starting of fires. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_ieN9a-L.jpg Even though there are cuota roads that are meant for commercial traffic, some trucks still take the libre roads and ruin the twisties. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_XUbiD-L.jpg And of course, a fine example of impatient drivers overtaking over a blind hill. I just stay well behind until it's clear to pass. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_B4jhJ-L.jpg Arriving at Zipolite, a beach community on the Oaxacan coast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_NqCYY-L.jpg Staying at the beach-side hostel, Shambhala. I took a dorm bed for P100. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_pKbBF-L.jpg The view from my hostel room of Zipolite Beach. The west end of the beach, from the small rock outcrop toward my hostel is the only sanctioned clothing optional beach in Mexico. I wanted to come down here on my previous trip, but it was too far south. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_bAGmT-L.jpg Shambhala with the dorm beds on the upper level. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_arYqH-L.jpg A small private area on the beach. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...26_N3Brj-L.jpg Waves crashing through the hole in the rocks. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_JBcFc-L.jpg The view from the beach towards Shambhala and these photos were taken au naturel, after a dip in the ocean, being totally free. It's a wonderful feeling. When I interned in Ft. Lauderdale, I frequented Haulover Beach and loved being free. Clothes definitely have their uses and since getting into motorcycling and skiing, I've seen them more and more as just gear for different settings to protect the body, since the skin is fragile. Besides being stylistic and traditional, I wish we didn't have to wear clothes all the time :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_PhVhu-L.jpg The walk back up to Shambhala. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_DzYEX-L.jpg Live guitar music for dinner on the beach. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_a8ouW-L.jpg Dinner on the beach under a starry night sky. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_AvApk-L.jpg Breakfast the next morning of curried eggs with veggies and rice and beans for P40. I was craving for some curry. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_7TPnQ-L.jpg Fresh papaya juice with a covering to keep the flies out. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_MpKfH-L.jpg The view from the restaurant. I spent the morning reading before hitting the road. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_T4RRJ-L.jpg Heading inland from the coast to the small town of Juchitan de Zaragoza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_8K8fM-L.jpg The central market of Juchitan at night. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_FX8oi-L.jpg Staying with Couchsurfer Nizbeth, who didn't speak much English but we still had good conversations the whole evening in my borken Spanish and I could understand most of what she said if she spoke slowly. Total immersion is the best way to learn. Here, we're getting a local drink made from cocoa and vanilla. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_hrBkR-L.jpg It was very frothy and warm. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_wws7Y-L.jpg Quite tasty cocoa drink. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_635SR-L.jpg Dried fish stands. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_JaS5s-L.jpg Fresh cheese. And I had samples from each stand. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_NgJzm-L.jpg Dolls with the traditional costume of the region. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_m4tbD-L.jpg With Nizbeth, who took me around her town and was proud to show it off. She's a pyschologist and works for the state. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_hGKx8-L.jpg A poster in Nizbeth's room with English phrases that she's practicing. We also talked in English as she wanted to practice. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_9ZMat-L.jpg At Nizbeth's house. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_Krvj8-L.jpg Inside Nizbeth's house, which is very similar to many Indian homes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_gewWY-L.jpg A huge wind energy farm east of Juchitan. This region is known for really strong winds during certain times of the year. Tall buses are known to be blown over. However, right now, there were no winds and very few turbines were spinning. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_Wsvnr-L.jpg Entering the southernmost state of Chiapas, considered the poorest in Mexico with a large indigenous population of Maya, who've been marginalized. The state is also known for a rebel uprising in the 1990s of the Zapatista, who were representing the indigenous. Things have quieted down now. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_2C89G-L.jpg Heading up from the hot and humid plains into the highlands. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_z9CqF-L.jpg Heading into San Cristobal de las Casas, where I will be spending a week to rest and learn some Spanish before crossing into Guatemala. |
Mexico, Part 3: San Cristobal
I was only going to spend two days in San Cristobal, but one thing lead to another and it became longer than a week. I stayed at CouchSurfer Jose Luis' place and there was a good vibe there. I had planned on taking Spanish lessons in Guatemala for a week but I met two Argentinian travelers who were also staying at Luis' place and they offered to teach me Spanish in exchange for improving their English. One of them, Lucas was a Spanish literature teacher and journalist. I also needed to wind down a bit as I was on the road constantly for the previous two weeks working my way down Mexico. The pleasant highland climate up at 7,500 ft was also much appreciated. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_pwAXP-L.jpg The main house on the ranch where Luis was staying. This is Olivier's house and that's one of his horses, who's pregnant. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_zUWG3-L.jpg The side house where Luis and the rest of us were staying. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_HzUWY-L.jpg Olivier's second horse coming for a drink of water. It was real nice to be living so close to such big, beautiful animals. They came and went as they pleased as it was also their home. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_3ysrA-L.jpg Lucas, one of the Argentinians, besides being a Spanish teacher and journalist is also a marvelous singer and guitar player. He put together a CD album and is trying to go professional. He would just grab his guitar and belt out beautiful songs with a very strong voice. It was so impressive that Luis is holding the phone out and probably said to the person on the other end, "you gotta hear this." http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_5254p-L.jpg We went into town to check out some local music. This is a group from Veracruz (known for great musicians in Mexico), where everyone had a guitar of all different sizes and people took turns singing. It was lively music with strong messages (I had some translations). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_A2PdK-L.jpg They had a small wooden platform and people took turns stomping to the music. The stomps would be mellow during the verse and get loud and energetic during the chorus. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_NzZy2-L.jpg Once it got too cold outside, the party moved inside. Check out the rhythm instrument, which was a jaw of some animal, probably a cow, filled with beads and a stick was grated against the teeth to create a maracas kind of sound. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_S6TF3-L.jpg The next morning I went to Comitan, about 90 kms towards the Guatemalan border to the consulate there to get a visa for the next few Central American countries. However, to my surprise they said India was now on the visa exempt list, so no visa needed. Yeah, tourist visa reform is slowing happening. On the way back to San Cristobal I saw these horses dragging lumber. Human and animal sharing the load. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_TUAkS-L.jpg And I finally found tacos cheaper than 10 Pesos (the dollar sign is used to signify pesos in Mexico). All through northern Mexico, the cheapest tacos were P10 and above. P5 is around $0.40. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_LYaxz-L.jpg Mmmm, greasy meat from somewhere on a pig. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_mbGj8-L.jpg In complete contrast to road-side food are all the huge supermarkets now everywhere in Mexico. It might be classified as a developing country, but Mexico has some faces that look very similar to developed countries. Buying provisions for the week ahead. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_FkpvZ-L.jpg Automatic tortilla oven. Billions and billions of tortillas are made and consumed every day in Mexico. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_z9t27-L.jpg Luis preparing some dinner for us. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_8vQ94-L.jpg Ham sandwiches with avocado and tomato. Simple and tasty. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_32Lzf-L.jpg He taught us this board game that night called La Polina. It's kind of like Monopoly where you have to get your pieces around the board and there are various rules on who can kill whom and where the safety zones are. It doesn't reward kindness and I think it teaches you how to be an effective mob boss, haha. Interesting game. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_LLpiK-L.jpg The beautiful cathedral in the central plaza of San Cristobal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_tsvVo-L.jpg Old Spanish colonial city with cobble stone streets and lots of cafes with outdoor seating. The mood was very jovial. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_PWkux-L.jpg If you're a CouchSurfer or staying with one in San Cristobal, you have to take part in the Abrazos Gratis (Free Hugs) event on Saturday afternoons. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_jNr7q-L.jpg No one knows who started it or where, but you basically just give out free hugs to passerbyers. Of course, you ask first and most people respond with a smile and open arms and walk away with an even bigger smile. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_JmzH8-L.jpg Selva, a CouchSurfing host from Germany who was doing some Yoga training on the Oaxacan coast, sticking an Abrazos Gratis sign on Lucas. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...90_KpEbJ-L.jpg Having a few drinks after the event with new friends. I offered to cook a chicken curry for about five of us that evening and Mauricio, here on the left, who also lives in Olivier's house, spread the word that an Indian guy was making a chicken curry and what do you know, soon it became a dinner party for 30! More chicken! http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_hXiyT-L.jpg I enjoyed being a chef again and put everyone to work chopping vegetables: Joelle (from Quebec), Luis, Aurelie (from Reunion), Maria (San Cris local), Olivier and Ikura (Japanese traveler that we met in the plaza). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_RL5Ju-L.jpg Cutting green peppers and onions: Carlos (from France) and Monika (from Poland). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_Fd4gD-L.jpg Kal (from Korea) preparing a Korean rice dish with all the vegetables. If you think riding a motorcycle through South America is crazy, Kal here plans to Walk around South America. He's walked around South Korea and is preparing for his multi-year journey in San Cristobal. We had some nice discussions about Zen Buddhism and the energy in the Universe, which was currently being channelled into the food :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_HfaHJ-L.jpg Once it was prepared, the chicken curry disappeared real fast. I couldn't even get a picture of the finished dish, haha. It didn't come out as I expected as I've never cooked for so many people, but with the right spices and adequate salt, no one would complain. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_fDzfD-L.jpg Finally getting a chance to sit down and enjoy some of the food. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_7YieN-L.jpg Happy feasters. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_hbzk3-L.jpg Selva and Melady (from Madison, Wisconsin) preparing a mango lassi (Indian yogurt drink) for dessert. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_A8E4h-L.jpg A campfire was started outside and everyone gathered to listen to Lucas play the guitar, under a beautiful clear night sky. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_8XLTA-L.jpg Always enjoyable to be around a campfire. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_4iaoy-L.jpg There was some dancing by Mario (the other Argentinian)... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_agrUA-L.jpg ...and story-telling by Lucas who was quite dramatic. I couldn't follow much of it, but the presentation itself was interesting. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_8qHjM-L.jpg A beautiful evening, put together as it happened. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_HZSic-L.jpg The next day I went with Olivier to see some quarter-mile horse drag racing. This is typical of this region and happens quite regularly. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_ViS2D-L.jpg Everyone stands real close to the raceway to see their horse get ahead and then get smothered in the dust cloud as they pass. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_svPY6-L.jpg The timing system for the races with some camcorders for video playback. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_W3Vsa-L.jpg There was lots of waiting around for each race, about an hour in between. Chicken on the grill and locals mingling about. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_Paw42-L.jpg This guy was interesting - he was selling small concessions and collecting the beer cans thrown on the ground by everyone else. Maybe he gets some cash for recycling them, but it's funny to see how people care less about garbage down here and just throw things down as soon as it's of no value to them. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_W4A5y-L.jpg The next race started... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_oV6pb-L.jpg ...and the excitement was over in less than ten seconds. I like this picture for how the dust trails mimic the horse's tail. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_bXU7o-L.jpg Typical evenings at Luis' with dinner on the porch. Everyone took turns preparing dinner. Soon, more people were staying at Olivier's, Mauricio's and Luis' place as they too enjoyed the vibe here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_C38UM-L.jpg Besides the good food and the company, everyone enjoyed being so close to the horses. Some of them even went on horse rides (on the black male as the mare here was expected any day soon). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_NSaHm-L.jpg There was lots of dancing. Here, Lucas and Joelle are swinging away. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_MZKHq-L.jpg Carlos and Aurelie spinning into smiles. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_Khetq-L.jpg Good times. Nice to mix with travelers from all different parts of the world and see how similar and diverse we all are. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_ZUicM-L.jpg Busting a few moves myself. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_Avcuz-L.jpg Mauricio works for an outfitter company, organizing tours and treks and he got us a deal on a river cruise though the Sumidero Canyon, near Tuxtla Gutierrez. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...15_Vyowr-L.jpg The steep canyon walls from the river. It was a two hour motor boat cruise with a Spanish guide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_85P9w-L.jpg A limestone cave with a shrine to the Virgin Mary deep inside. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_9ETzB-L.jpg And nice big crocodiles basking in the sun. We saw three huge ones and the boat got real close to the shore. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_wn3dy-L.jpg Some more pictures of San Cristobal's interesting buildings. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_hTDYy-L.jpg Shaded tree avenue near the central plaza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_mH28A-L.jpg Doing an oil change for sanDRina. It had been 3,500 miles since San Francisco and the oil was well used. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_FHRb7-L.jpg I asked the store where I bought the oil if I could borrow an oil pan as I had all the tools needed for a simple oil change and felt better about doing it myself. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_wxwXt-L.jpg Cooking one last meal in San Cristobal. This time it would be all vegetarian. Preparing a broccoli pasta sauce. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_SmH45-L.jpg Carlos making mashed potatoes with garlic and chillies. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_nYLLc-L.jpg Presenting the food: a cucumber/tomato salad, mashed potatoes and the pasta sauce. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_vqH3E-L.jpg Good to get some greens after lots of fried meat dishes the previous days. Garlic mashed potatoes with a cucumber/tomato salad with avocado and pasta with a broccoli tomato sauce. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_3QV3B-L.jpg And good food always goes well with good company. It would be easy to spend a lot of time wherever the vibes are good, however the road is calling. |
Mexico, Part 4: Naha, Mayan Village Stay
While in San Cristobal, I became friends with Selva and she found out about a rural Mayan village deep in the jungle near Palenque, that outsiders could visit and stay with a local family. Mauricio had been there before and knew a family we could stay with. It sounded like a good plan, so I decided to tag along and push back crossing into Guatemala. Melady, a traveler from Wisconsin, would also be joining us. Since Naha wasn't on any map, I would just be following the transportation that the girls were taking. They of course wanted to come on the bike, but it's not setup to carry passengers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_sKSce-L.jpg I first followed the girls in this collectivo, a shared minibus offering services to smaller towns, to Ocosingo, about 100 kms southeast and down the mountain from San Cristobal towards Palenque. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...45_iiiaw-L.jpg The local market in Ocosingo. It's not much of a tourist attraction but it works for the locals. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_4hbfG-L.jpg The big red bananas are not a common variety and are super tasty. Can also find them in India. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_bnv6i-L.jpg Selva and Melady stocking up on supplies for the rough trip ahead to Naha and buying sweet bread as a gift to the host family. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_hua6i-L.jpg The girls would be riding in the back of this camionetta, a pickup truck used for even more rural routes. It's also used partly for cargo as some of these villages don't have much else contact with the outside world. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_RhMRM-L.jpg Waiting at the camionetta station after having discussed with the driver that I would be following him and told him not to lose me. I told the girls, if I got lost, I was heading for Guatemala. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_yUkBU-L.jpg We were descending further down the mountain to about 2,000 ft and the humidity was picking up. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_GwtCE-L.jpg Stopping for a break once the route went gravel. It was about 30 kms of nice pavement from Ocosingo and then 50 kms of dirt road into the jungle to Naha, making it a 3 1/2 hour journey. I was adjusting tire pressures here for better feel on the loose surface. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_zfqgT-L.jpg And of course, whenever we stopped, the men who were traveling in the truck gathered around and asked all sort of questions about the bike and my trip. It was nice how we were all traveling together in a small convoy. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_TMEdZ-L.jpg Zapatista wannabes. Once the route hit the gravel road, the girls tried to reduce the amount of dust that they were covered in. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_5V58c-L.jpg Nice exposé of the other passengers in the truck. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_XqTMw-L.jpg Enjoying some off-road riding. The road was pretty mild with only a few hairy rocky-boulder sections. That's my Vision-X Solstice LED headlight. I have two of them and used them instead of the main headlight during the day as they're brighter and provide a bigger light footprint to oncoming traffic. They're skewed a bit off-center. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...79_WpCoR-L.jpg Ewww smelly biker, but they looked worse than me being covered in a fine layer of dust. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...15_DtWfo-L.jpg It was good riding and sanDRina was handling it well. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_phete-L.jpg We had to dodge some rain here and there and it helped to reduce the amount of dust being kicked up. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...79_5Xc8X-L.jpg 3 hours in the back of a pickup truck and you become friendly with your fellow passengers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_BPCcQ-L.jpg The simple village of Naha. It was this one street that passed through the village and had a population of about 200. Most of the villagers just got by on subsistence living, growing what they could from the land and leading simple lives. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_psJCY-L.jpg One of the local Mayan Lacondon boys taking me to the home where we would be staying. The Lacandon males characteristically have long black hair and wear white gowns as theirmain clothing. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_yNm9E-L.jpg Going for a hike through the jungle to get to a lake that Naha is known for. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_khca3-L.jpg Furry peapod. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_unruW-L.jpg Getting to the remote lake. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_JJApE-L.jpg Selva taking it in. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_NNQEV-L.jpg It was serene and felt untouched. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_5X2zx-L.jpg Making beautiful music from a wooden flute. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_XG6AT-L.jpg Soaking our feet in the cool water. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_LQGjA-L.jpg This is Bor, he's a deaf Mayan man, part of the family we were staying with. He was very energetic and tagged along with us on our treks. He borrowed this dug-out canoe and offered to take us across the lake. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_TB4cL-L.jpg Melady went along with Bor as Selva and I wanted to head to the next village to buy some fresh produce as there was only canned food in the small stores in Naha. Selva is a vegetarian and doesn't enjoy canned food. It also rained regularly in the afternoon around 3 pm, so we wanted to get back before that. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_hJxbC-L.jpg Pictures from Melady on the canoe. Lotus flowers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_DgV2D-L.jpg Lotus in the feet. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_Zg9Go-L.jpg Melady enjoying her Mayan gondola experience. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_gEL9B-L.jpg A Lancondan man across the waters in his traditional clothes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...86_devkL-L.jpg Walking back to the village. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_Savms-L.jpg Selva and I went two-up on the DR to the next town over to buy fresh produce. It was a tight squeeze but for a short distance, it was no problem. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_TwJzu-L.jpg We came across a coffee warehouse on the way back. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_XoCbi-L.jpg It's the local Naha coffee that they're exporting to Europe and the US. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_Tynnk-L.jpg While waiting for a freshly brewed sample, Selva found out more from the manager. They're using only sustainable practices and of course, employ the local Mayans to support the community. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_oFRct-L.jpg The dirt road leading back to Naha. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_Sk4rX-L.jpg Steep dirt switch-backs two-up on a fully loaded DR. No sweat. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_BEAci-L.jpg Preparing dinner that night in the host family's kitchen. Melady stir-frying some onions. They were using just simple open-fire stoves with a grill on top. Besides having no chimney to direct the smoke outside, I thought about telling them how inefficient this was for cooking as lots of heat was going to waste on the sides, using up more of their precious firewood. However, Selva told me there were plans by NGOs to distribute better stoves to rural communities such as here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_dFzza-L.jpg Selva chopping up some cabbage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_WBicC-L.jpg Dinner of rice with lentils, tomatoes and cabbage with garlic and chillies. It was all we could find in the nearby stores and was quite tasty. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_5kfkw-L.jpg Trying to capture how much smoke was present in the kitchen area from the open fires. It got unbearable at times and we had to come outside for some fresh air. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_84rr2-L.jpg They made tortillas everyday and stored them in gourds up on these baskets to keep it away from the animals. Lots of dogs, cats and chickens were wandering about. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_PgaAQ-L.jpg Bor holding up one of his drawings. He's known a bit for his drawings and has sold a few to visitors and other interested people. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_aPYCh-L.jpg He was intrigued by the motorcycle and wanted to go for a ride! http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_xYHFh-L.jpg He would sign and try to communicate with us a lot. He was telling all sorts of stories and we tried out best to figure out what they were. It was about going up on the ridge, going into a cave, seeing a jaguar and other things that we made up to go with his signs. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_QyaGq-L.jpg Relaxing in the hammocks after dinner. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_yzZHb-L.jpg Grinding up corn into flour to be made into tortillas. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_g3jvX-L.jpg One of the Mayan mothers making her family's tortillas in the morning. A few families were living together and each of them made their own tortillas. If they ran out, they could borrow from another family, but had to pay back. This was the essence of their diet. They said if they didn't eat tortillas with every meal, their stomachs would feel funny. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_BBA93-L.jpg Heating up the tortilla on a big pan. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_CUK5v-L.jpg One of the little Mayan girls running around the kitchen. She was just smiling a moment ago. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_aS95D-L.jpg The bathroom. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_hnAQB-L.jpg The shower. Nice refreshing cold jungle water. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_farpd-L.jpg They had a toilet that flushed but you had to use water or bring your own toilet paper. Water's cleaner :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_KBFY9-L.jpg Running into Bor on his way back from clearing a boundary in the jungle. The neighboring village was encroaching on their land and clearing forest for growing corn, called milpas. So everyone in the community had to volunteer to go up and clearly mark a boundary and maintain it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_ijskA-L.jpg There was a hut in the village used for teaching art to the kids. That's an albino Lancondon boy working on part of a wall hanging. There were about three albinos in this small community. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_gJh3Z-L.jpg Walking back to the lake and carrying the leftovers from last night for lunch. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_fccna-L.jpg Huge Elephant Ear plants in the jungle. Melady said people would pay huge sums of money for these leaves back in the States. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_U94Cb-L.jpg Nature's art show on the back of a butterfly wing. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_qsJx6-L.jpg Eating mangoes and relaxing in a thatched hut by the lake. It was a lazy afternoon of reading and napping. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_A9KyN-L.jpg The mom of another family making her share of tortillas. They were using a press, which is similar to ones in India, to make smaller tortillas. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_gtdjq-L.jpg Rising up like pita breads. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_giChQ-L.jpg The kitchen sink with light pouring in after the usual afternoon rains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_BqTse-L.jpg Selva conversing with one of the ladies. She's fluent in Spanish as her mother is Peruvian. The Maya speak their own language and we tired to learn a few words. Some of the older women only spoke Mayan. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_Vmb99-L.jpg Nena, the bossiest of the little children around. She was missing all her front teeth and most of them had bad dental health. We saw lots of soda drinks being consumed and junk food being eaten by the kids. In the stores, bottled water was quite rare. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_CsZWP-L.jpg Clutching a tasty bag of chips. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_53dfH-L.jpg Entrance to the kitchen. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_EefPv-L.jpg The hut we stayed in. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_c4VMi-L.jpg Parking for the bike in the firewood shed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_X3sds-L.jpg Lots of chickens walking about freely, producing heaps of eggs for daily consumption. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_g5Sqd-L.jpg Melady teaching one of the little girls how to write. She also wanted to try on her glasses. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_Ev4yD-L.jpg One of the elder ladies washing clothes. Melady gave her camera to the kids and asked them to take photos and this one and the next two are from the kids' perspective. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_nxVYj-L.jpg Angelica, the smartest of the little kids. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...26_zDdWd-L.jpg Nena with a funny expression. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_iQyv2-L.jpg Dinner that night of lentils with rice and this time, potatoes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_A2FNa-L.jpg Heading back to San Cristobal. Selva and Melady were taking a camionetta to Palenque and then returning home; Selva to Germany and Melady to Wisconsin. It was a good three days spent getting a glimpse of rural Mayan life and enjoying the jungle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_SgnpH-L.jpg This was Zapatista country but we didn't see any more than this (it's a movement to increase indigenous rights and was strong in the 90s but has died down now). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_sYpMn-L.jpg Riding back up into the mountains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_dqKeX-L.jpg The dirt road winding its way ahead. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...61_fVSRp-L.jpg Mini rapids on a passing river. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_UUgnk-L.jpg The bridges used pipes as their bed and it caused the front tire to wander a bit as I crossed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_nhHZA-L.jpg Taking a lunch break. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_n4GVe-L.jpg Looking back at the valley where Naha is. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_6kiLz-L.jpg Pine trees as the elevation rose. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_cJth2-L.jpg Hitting the new pavement after 50 kms of dirt. This road was quite remote and had very little traffic. Fun riding. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_BfBtM-L.jpg Climbing higher to 7,500 ft as I neared San Cristobal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_Cc8Po-L.jpg Washed out road. This is why you can't come flying around corners down here. This danger was signed, but not all of them are. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_93hh2-L.jpg Cleaning my chain after that dirt riding with diesel and a tooth brush. The Pemex guys were nice and didn't even charge me for the 1 Peso of diesel. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_qHszd-L.jpg Is that a clean chain or what? All ready to leave Mexico and head into Guatemala tomorrow. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_D35Fx-L.jpg Topes, speed bumps in Mexico and yes, some of them are thaaat big! There are just way too many of these all over Mexico. My left toe was starting to hurt after a few days of constantly having to brake and up shift - my bulky motocross boots put more torque on my foot when I shift. I was looking forward to having to deal with much less speed bumps south of Mexico. I know they're needed otherwise everyone would speed way too much through towns but some of them are in the middle of nowhere and not even marked, so you have to keep constantly scanning the road ahead for slight bumps. They are helpful though in overtaking other trucks and cars as they have to slow down much more. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_8zJWw-L.jpg The Mexican Peso. I'm going to try and get a picture of the different currencies I come across. P100 = $8.20. |
Guatemala, Part 1: Highlands
I was looking forward to crossing into Guatemala as this would be my first country in Central America. After spending more time in Mexico, I now had about three weeks to get to Panama. I originally wanted to spend about a week in each of the CA countries, but now it was going to be just a few days. I made a loop around Guatemala, hitting most of the interesting sites from Lake Atitlan set among volcanoes, to riding in the remote highlands, seeing the magnificent ruins at Tikal, dipping down to the yachtie Rio Dulce before crossing over into Honduras. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_QoQgD-L.jpg At the Guatemala Consulate in Comitan, Mexico, making sure that I don't need a visa to enter. The small blue and white flag denotes the consulate. The nice guys at the office there even made sure to call the consulates of all the other Central American countries to make sure I didn't need a visa through Panama. Yeah! http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_LZVAe-L.jpg Nomansland between the Mexican and Guatemalan border. The land was flat on the Mexican side and looming mountains were ahead in Guatemala. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_yqfce-L.jpg Welcome to Guatemala. La Mesilla border crossing. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_SEh9N-L.jpg Getting the bike fumigated - sprayed with a disinfectant to not transport bugs across the border for Q12. $1 = 8 Quetzals (the Guatemalan currency). No cost for immigration stamp and Q40 for importing the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_5uhry-L.jpg Grand mountains ahead and lots of garbage on the road side. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_s7gnR-L.jpg Nice to see lots more bikes around and a good use of helmets. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_98i6q-L.jpg Lunch at Huehuetenango of grilled chicken with rice, beans and tortillas for Q15. The tortillas were smaller and thicker. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_fx8K8-L.jpg Riding high into the mountains of the Cordillera de los Cuchumatanes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_P7GkB-L.jpg Brand new four lane twisty mountainous freeway heading south to Guatemala City. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_v3M7u-L.jpg The road was cut right through steep parts of the mountain and you wonder why landslides happen... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_xigPo-L.jpg The road climbed higher and higher, riding into the clouds. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_WV5QJ-L.jpg In the clouds at 10,000 ft. Visibility was reduced to around 100 ft. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_5cnbG-L.jpg Dropping quickly in elevation as I descended to Lago de Atitlan, a beautiful lake surrounded by numerous volcanoes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_poTQn-L.jpg The tight switch-backs heading down to the lake. The village of San Marcos up ahead. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_Fbz5E-L.jpg The gnarly road heading to the town of San Pedro. Good reason to have a dual-sport bike down here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_pwz48-L.jpg The beautiful expansive Lago de Atitlan, which fills the mouth of a huge volcanic caldera that erupted about 84,000 years ago. It's the deepest lake in Central America at around 340 meters (1130 ft) deep. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_seoXk-L.jpg The touristic town of San Pedro la Laguna. It's a backpackers hub with lots of services catering to travelers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...86_AY4zK-L.jpg Dock side lined with boats as they ply the waters to the various towns around the lake http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...06_wFuCM-L.jpg View from the restaurant I had dinner at across the lake at sunset. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_rCchq-L.jpg Sunrise views across the lake. I wish I could've stayed longer as I know the photo opportunities would've been better. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...45_Ly7SA-L.jpg Hospedaje Xocomil where I spent the night for Q40 ($5). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_qcy82-L.jpg Nice to park the bike right outside my room and away from the evening rains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_46K9a-L.jpg The Guatemalan Quetzal. $1 = Q8. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_85KFU-L.jpg The infamous dodgy hot water element in the shower head. Not having the capacity for a water heater, this is the next best thing for hot water, where a heating element heats up the water right before it exits the shower head. You wont get a shock as long as you don't touch the shower head when it's running and you're wet. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_AKicZ-L.jpg Clear view across the lake from the village of San Juan to the mountain the road climbs to get back on the main road. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_DQpJo-L.jpg The trusty Bajaj Autorickshaw from India, called tuk-tuks here, being used all over Central America as cheap taxis. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_G8Jne-L.jpg Clear day for riding back up to the top. The lake is at around 5,500 ft and the main road on top is at around 8,500 ft, climbing real steep up the mountain in about 25 kms. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...06_Q65kd-L.jpg The steep, narrow, beautiful road back up to the top of the ridge. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_xghDW-L.jpg View of Volcan San Pedro and the town at the base of the volcano from the top. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_Aa3CZ-L.jpg Typical sight of firewood being collected from the forest for daily cooking and heating use. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_sUFkU-L.jpg Riding nice mountainous twisty roads past Chichicastenango, heading to Coban. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_RP6s3-L.jpg Taking a lunch break past Uspatan. Lots of rural schools were abound all across the country. Good to see education reaching far into the countryside. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_k6Vtj-L.jpg Lunch of a corn meal soup that was flavored with a few beans, hot sauce, salt and lemon. Tasted pretty good and was very filling for Q2. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_66L8S-L.jpg Riding remote twisties along the scenic Huehue to Coban road. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_iDsyW-L.jpg A collectivo assistant hanging on to the ladder while talking to someone inside. He climbed down from the roof as the van was swaying around the corners. And note the passengers on the roof, drinking beers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_hCFKn-L.jpg The road turned to gravel about 25 kms shy of Coban. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_Xf47P-L.jpg The road was pretty smooth but I knew something was coming up... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_pNDBg-L.jpg A huge land slide took out the road recently, (peligro = danger, no hay paso = do not enter). I knew about this from another motorcycle rider who passed through here a few months before me. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_BcMLY-L.jpg Looks like the whole side of mountain came sliding down. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_cBDGA-L.jpg The original route is on top and the detour heads down and around the land slide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_4gWBC-L.jpg The detour was quite gnarly and steep with lots of tight switch-backs. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_BB5TP-L.jpg Looks like more rocks fell across the detour. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_KgUzh-L.jpg I made it out and had some lunch past Coban of Chicharron, fried pork skin with some meat and a radish salad for Q16. It was the only thing offered at the place. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_3vwVb-L.jpg Riding some relaxing sweeping corners heading north to Lanquin. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_WrZLY-L.jpg The 20 kms of dirt road heading to the town of Lanquin and further to the scenic limestone pools of Semuc Champey. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_mfPNn-L.jpg I stayed the night at this jungle resort near the pools, where I met a traveler from the States who worked a whole year at the South Pole, Antarctica. She was a safety inspector and also worked in the oil/gas industry in Nigeria. She was winding down in Guatemala and said how amazing it was to see precipitation fall from the sky as the snow/ice blows horizontally almost constantly at the pole. She was the 1231st person to ever spend a winter at the south pole where it's a constant -80F and 9 months of darkness. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_55T5L-L.jpg I stayed in the dorm in the attic of this cabin. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_Jxfk5-L.jpg Q25 for a dorm bed as Casa de Zipolite. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_3Ngo9-L.jpg Heading to Semuc Champey with the early morning jungle mist in the valley. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_rgeFi-L.jpg Hiking over to the pools. It cost Q50 to enter and Q10 for parking. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_KgjUD-L.jpg The clear water at Semuc Champey. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_NXU8g-L.jpg A very idyllic place with water flowing around limestone features, collecting in various pools. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_RDmwK-L.jpg The turquoise water color was a sight to behold. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_BZqKp-L.jpg Some early morning swimmers taking a dip in cool pools in the jungle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_SFJFY-L.jpg The greener lower pool at Semuc Champey. Interesting site, but not sure it was worth the entrance fee if you weren't going to swim. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_fpmqa-L.jpg Heading back up across this bridge. Doggie taking a nap. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_2D6wT-L.jpg The road was quite steep in places and they're put in concrete tracks in really steep sections for grip when it's wet. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_k7qVD-L.jpg Climbing back up to the main road from Lanquin. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_hArGY-L.jpg At the junction where the pavement ends. To head north to Tikal, there's 40 kms more of dirt road heading to Fray or you can take pavement back to Coban and through Chisec. I went straight ahead to Fray. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_hTaai-L.jpg Looking back at the valley where Lanquin and Semuc Champey are. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_acPGR-L.jpg The gravel road heading north to Fray. It was in fair condition but mostly going 1st and 2nd gear averaging 20 km/h. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_M6aHK-L.jpg Passing a few small towns in the mountains, which were crowded and chaotic. Lots of old Nissan pickup trucks everywhere. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_vqRXz-L.jpg Enjoying some beautiful sections of the route. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_PNUan-L.jpg Scenic valley with volcanic rock strewn about. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_uUXAo-L.jpg A gnarly downhill section of baseball size rocks. I kept reminding myself not to tense up and be lose with the handle bar and just let the front wheel find its way down and there were no pucker moments. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_4pYM2-L.jpg The road opened up about halfway through and construction crews were busy at work. Looks like it's going to be paved soon. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_P7664-L.jpg Filling the tires back up once I reached the end of the dirt section. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_nstd7-L.jpg Handy little air compressor doing its job. |
Guatemala, Part 2: Tikal
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_zARsb-L.jpg Finished with the mountainous section of Guatemala and now riding the hot tropical plains with high humidity heading north to Tikal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_Hr6dX-L.jpg A super long straight section, about 60 kms, running up the west side of the country. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_Vds32-L.jpg The ferry at Sayaxche across Rio de la Passion. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_3tQJC-L.jpg Sharing the ride with a semi-truck (note the long line of trucks waiting to cross). Cost Q5. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_dAEG7-L.jpg The ferry was powered by this little outboard motor on a dingy. It worked and got us across. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_2SchK-L.jpg Slash and burning the jungle away. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_Xy8D5-L.jpg The roads were well marked with directions. Guatemala is referring to Guatemala City. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_FNo4S-L.jpg Setting sun across the picturesque Lago de Peten Itza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_SCBTq-L.jpg Entering Tikal and taking note of the dual pricing structure where foreigners have to pay Q150 ($19) and local nationals pay Q25. A lot of other countries do it as well and I guess they're milking the rich and giving the locals an affordable chance to take in some of their heritage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_C8Af7-L.jpg Riding the 17 kms of park road heading to the visitors center. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_N7m8j-L.jpg Not your usual animal warning sign. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_Q5CJ6-L.jpg Meow. Jaguars ahead. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_mgr63-L.jpg I camped in front of the Jaguar Inn, which is in the main visitors area as I wanted to enter the site early in the morning when it's cooler and less crowded. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_9yrRn-L.jpg Camping for Q25 at the Jaguar Inn. It was safe to leave all my things here when I walked around the ruins. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_5yBom-L.jpg Not realizing that Guatemala and the rest of Central America don't follow daylight savings like Mexico, my clock was one hour ahead and I got to the site entrance at 5 am instead of 6 am when the site opens. I bribed the watchmen to let me in instead of wasting an hour. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_eGPCm-L.jpg Hiking through the jungle to get to the ruins at Tikal at 5:15 in the morning. I was the only person in the site for at least 2 hours. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_bcbtH-L.jpg Temple I covered in the morning jungle mist. Tikal was the capital of one of the largest Mayan kingdoms and prospered mainly from 200-900 AD. Some buildings on the site date as far back as 700 BC. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_tF4Vh-L.jpg Temple V, where I waited out the fog. Tikal was abandoned by the end of the 10th century and was rediscovered in the 19th century. After abandonment, the site was quickly recaptured by the jungle with thick vegetation covering most of the temples. The tops of a few of them were visible above the canopy. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...26_hcaKr-L.jpg Stairway to heaven? Steep steps to get to the top of Temple V. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_bRWLY-L.jpg Soaking it in on the top of Temple V at 58 meters high. The downside of coming so early was all the fog and limited visibility but I enjoyed the solitude among the ruins. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_ZnunP-L.jpg Looking out across from the top of Temple V. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_MfERE-L.jpg The fog slowly starting to clear with the rising sun. The structure of the residential area coming into view on the right. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_fJvc2-L.jpg Ceiba trees to the left. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_HStAx-L.jpg Looking across the top of Temple V. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_bbzHH-L.jpg Temple I and the Gran Plaza coming into view as the fog slowly clears. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...53_vpNt3-L.jpg The main steps of the temple were eroded and not safe to climb. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_jFkdM-L.jpg The steep front side of the temple. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_prwBA-L.jpg As clear as it was going to get. Temple I (right) and II (left) in full view from the top of Temple V. It was magical to see the ruins slowly appear through the fog above the canopy of the jungle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...61_RuHSM-L.jpg Detail of the ruined wall. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_372Pj-L.jpg View across the jungle canopy. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_nyS8n-L.jpg Taking it all in once the fog cleared. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...61_VPiCR-L.jpg Looking down the steep steps. It was safer to go down backwards using it as a ladder. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_Lfhgh-L.jpg Temple V in all its glory. This was the most impressive looking temple as it was the most cleared of vegetation and the looked the grandest. Restoration began only in 1991. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_yS2BB-L.jpg The yet to be fully restored pyramid in the Lost World section of Tikal. There are four other older pyramids under this outer face as the Maya had a tendency to build new structures on top of old ones. The oldest pyramid dates back to 700 BC making it the oldest structure at Tikal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_qEvc7-L.jpg A leaf-cutter ant hauling his prized leaf across the walkway in the site that many Mayans toiled over the centuries hauling rocks to build this magnificent city. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_XrcvX-L.jpg A stela detailing stories about the kings at Tikal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_PEXM3-L.jpg Detail of the stela. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_Kv8gD-L.jpg Another round stela, looking similar to the Mayan calendar... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_xvAFT-L.jpg The tops of Temple III, II and I from Temple IV. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_niMTf-L.jpg Tourists soaking in the view from the top of Temple IV, which was still being excavated. Only the roofcomb was clear. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_n5akU-L.jpg Temple III covered in heavy vegetation, yet to be excavated. You can see the roofcomb behind the tree trunk in the middle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_oDk33-L.jpg Temple I and the Gran Plaza from the top of Temple II. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_skqPo-L.jpg The profile of Temple II. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_NMCkR-L.jpg Beautiful birds on the park grounds. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_xfTvX-L.jpg Info on the Ceiba tree. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_fQyHS-L.jpg The unique looking Ceiba tree, which is the national tree of Guatemala and is worshiped by the Mayans. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_H7Aib-L.jpg The trunks can get pretty large and the trees sport wide buttresses to support their heft. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_dnKFe-L.jpg Heading back south, passing the beautiful Lago de Peten Itza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_xii3A-L.jpg Tasty lunch of chicken in a gravy with rice and potatoes for Q10. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_p3x84-L.jpg Heading south towards Rio Dulce on the eastern side of Guatemala. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_AFGLc-L.jpg Staying at Hacienda Tijax on the river. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_xC9kw-L.jpg There were a lot of waterways around and they used lots of suspension boardwalks to get above the water and reduce human impact on the protected area, where lots of bird-watching was happening. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_jwxWv-L.jpg Staying in a thatched jungle room for Q60. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_ojc3f-L.jpg Rio Dulce is popular among yachties as it's the safest place to spend the hurricane season in the western Caribbean. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_Fhx6t-L.jpg Last meal in Guatemala of a thick tortilla with beef, green onions, sauce and some mayo sauce. It was quite tasty for Q15. At this comedor (road-side shack), just as I was finishing up my meal, a group of guys walked in all brandishing pistols in their belts. They seemed friendly and struck up a conversation about the bike and my trip. One of them spoke good English, probably the boss. They pulled in on 3 Toyota pickup trucks and had guards from their pose surrounding the whole comedor as lookouts. I figured they must either be some gang or political group or just rich, powerful people. The funniest thing was when I told them I rode through Mexico, they asked, "Isn't Mexico dangerous?" and they were all carrying guns, haha. I guess everyone is scared of what lies beyond their boundaries. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_7P4fB-L.jpg Taking the busy highway towards the Honduran border. This highway connects Guatemala City with the port on the Caribbean and was crowded with semi-truck traffic. Onwards to Honduras. |
Honduras
South of Guatemala are the countries El Salvador and Honduras. Due to time constraints, I decided to skip El Salvador to avoid the El Amatillo border crossing between the southern end of El Salvador and Honduras. It's notorious for its corruption and the officials making you run around in circles for hours, and likely paying hefty fines for something or the other. This usually leaves a sour feeling about Honduras and wanting to give it a proper chance to make an impression, I chose to go through the mountains of Honduras and visited a few colonial cities. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_T8hCX-L.jpg My route map from Guatemala thru Honduras into Nicaragua. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_5Z7QA-L.jpg Getting to the El Florido border crossing between Guatemala and Honduras. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_iGjvy-L.jpg Border towns are not places to hang out, but during the daytime, it's all good. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_9BaDN-L.jpg Welcome to Honduras. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_dTvdG-L.jpg Checking in the bike at Honduran customs. Cost $35. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_aSRyw-L.jpg The El Florido crossing is close to the Mayan ruins of Copan, but I didn't have time to stop and visit. I was heading further inland to the hill country town of Gracias. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_CUppD-L.jpg Honduras' currency - The Lempira, $1 = L18.50. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_5XXAT-L.jpg Sunset riding as I got into the former capital of Gracias in the mountains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_aQ24G-L.jpg Manuel Zelaya, the now-ousted president, who caused a ruckus and put Honduras in the international spotlight last year for wanting to amend the constitution and possibly end presidential term limits, a la Hugo Chavez. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_nAYy5-L.jpg Walking around the old colonial town of Gracias, I followed the old adage in seeking food that if there's a line of locals eating somewhere, it must be good. This guy was making simple chicken barbeque on skewers served with tortillas and a salad for L25 (~$1.50). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_GYB5k-L.jpg The streets of Gracias at night. This city was founded in 1526 and was for a brief time, the capital of all Spanish-conquered Central America in the 16th century. Some of these buildings are centuries old. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_Y749w-L.jpg Telephone wire exchange. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_Z55yQ-L.jpg Tienda means a small convenience store. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_kHNSJ-L.jpg Riding out the next morning further south through the mountains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_VfiVB-L.jpg Breakfast of fried chicken with scrambled eggs, refried beans, avocado and fresh cheese, served with tortillas for L40. This was more than I could handle in one sitting, so I packed the rest in my tupperware box and had it for lunch later on. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_mMPVw-L.jpg Heading towards La Esperanza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_eNLv8-L.jpg The road turned gravel for about 20 kms. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_jDHaY-L.jpg There was very little traffic, this far away from the major towns, which made for an enjoyable ride. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_FWb7t-L.jpg Past La Esperanza, heading up to the main highway. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_jYk7L-L.jpg The main highway, Carretera del Norte, connecting the two big cities in Honduras, the capital Tegucigalpa and the industrial city of San Pedra Sula on the coast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_xjyRe-L.jpg Enjoying a night out in the colonial town of Comayagua with my CouchSurfing host Rony and some of his Peace Corps friends from the States, Lucy and Heide. These girls were stationed in remote villages working on protecting natural environments and they were in town to celebrate Heide's birthday. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_XTvtE-L.jpg At Rony's house in Comayagua. His family runs a gym and he's currently working at the golf course in town, hoping to head to France soon to volunteer at an orphanage for a few months and travel around Europe. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_8j5e4-L.jpg The cathedral in the center of Comayagua, which was the original capital of Honduras, established in 1537. It's undergoing a renewal with help from Spain to preserve its heritage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_ZgQZn-L.jpg All throughout Central America, a lot of the public buses are old American school buses. To me, it seemed like once they weren't good enough for the US, probably not passing emissions, 'send them across the border, they need buses down there and no one cares about emissions' - except us poor bikers inhaling all that black carbon monoxide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...45_wdxkW-L.jpg Down here, when you see a sign warning of falling rocks, you better take it seriously. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_KwMkf-L.jpg Washed-out road. A good reason not to be riding at night. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_e7rNN-L.jpg South of Tegucigalpa heading to the Nicaraguan border at Los Manos. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_TWkFf-L.jpg You know you're getting close to the border when you see a line of parked trucks. The paperwork must be a major headache for them. |
Nicaragua
After two days in Honduras, I crossed into Nicaragua and couldn't escape their well-known police traps, but still managed to leave with a positive feeling about the country after visiting Granada. These countries have been torn by war and political strife in recent times, but things are calm these days and the friendly locals make for a safe passage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...45_H8wP2-L.jpg Welcome to Nicaragua. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_M7jAY-L.jpg After paying a $3 road tax, this guy wanted to pose for a picture. Nice friendly first impression of the Nica police, but not for long. They snagged me a few miles down for passing on a solid line, which another $3 bribe sufficed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_5cPHy-L.jpg Nicaragua's currency - The Cordoba. $1 = C21. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_HvfrV-L.jpg Nice roads, but generally more flat. Heading to the capital city of Managua. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_qqX7S-L.jpg Staying at ADVer Salcar's house in Managua. He was actually in Switzerland but told me I could still stay at his place. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_7mXGt-L.jpg Riding through some dense fog on my way to Granada. I went up and over some mountains, through the misty town of Jinotega, to avoid a known police shake-down spot on the main road from Managua to Granada at Masaya. This is known as one of the most scenic drives in the country as it climbs to 4,000 ft and comes back down to near sea level in Granada. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_sCZJ9-L.jpg Dinner at my CouchSurfing's host Avi's place in Granada. He's also in the Peace Corps, working on teaching entrepreneurial skills to high school kids. His neighbor prepared this meal for us as they ran out of cooking gas and Avi let them cook at his place. It's a typical meal of rice fried with beans, some salad of cucumbers and fresh cheese. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_aVtRm-L.jpg After dinner, we did what most Nicaraguan's do at night, hang out on their porch, since it's hot inside and usually there's a cool breeze outside. Avi's been here over two years and he's winding down his project. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_V3Wgu-L.jpg Checking out the main plaza in Granada, the oldest city in Nicaragua, founded in 1524. Being on Lake Nicaragua with access to the Caribbean, it was an important trading post and was wealthy leading it to be ransacked multiple times by British and French pirates from the Caribbean. Recently, it kick-started Nicaragua's tourism with its rich colonial heritage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_dAnHU-L.jpg The cathedral in the Parque Central. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_VcWhQ-L.jpg Statue in the central park with the inscription in English "devotion and love to all mothers". http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_5pEsM-L.jpg Having breakfast of 'yuca con cerdo' - cassava or manioc with grilled pork. I like the taste of cassava; it's slightly sweet and the texture is interesting too. It's a staple food in many developing parts of the world, especially Africa as it's a hardy plant and is considered the third largest source of carbohydrates in human diets. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_bmfmU-L.jpg The yuca and pork at the food seller's stand. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_XqMHa-L.jpg Heading south out of Granada, towards the Costa Rican border. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_b59ac-L.jpg Windmills on the shore of the huge Lago de Nicaragua. |
Costa Rica
Costa Rica, the rich coast as Columbus thought it contained a lot of gold when he landed here, has actually been made rich by bananas and its well developed ecotourism industry. It's also the most developed country in Central America and along with that comes higher prices for everything, similar to costs in the US. For this reason, most budget travelers buzz through Costa Rica, but I had to spend a few days in the capital of San Jose in order to get visas for the first few South America countries. Being the most developed country meant that it also had a good diplomatic representation from a lot of countries. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_hUkSH-L.jpg I know a couple trucks are expected at border crossings but the border between Nicaragua and Costa Rica, there's only one crossing, had a line of trucks at least 6 kms (3.5 miles) in length. This was an indication of how complex this border crossing must be. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_RCSnC-L.jpg Using a helper at the border, to help me navigate all the various booths I had to go to and get stamps from. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...79_YuLFG-L.jpg At the Nicaraguan customs office. I've been able to navigate all the previous border crossings with no problem, but that was also because I went across smaller, less trafficked borders where the various buildings were close together. Here, with only one border between these countries, it was a massive operation with tonnes of people getting on and off buses, truckers trying to get their papers approved and individual travelers. The procedure was not well-signed for the unaided traveler. You get a small slip of paper as you enter the border compound and you have to get it stamped at various booths to show you've done all that is necessary and then you have to give this paper to an officer in order to exit the border compound. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_MGppy-L.jpg At the Costa Rican customs office, which was a similar hassle to the Nicaraguan side. One thing I've noticed in these few border crossings so far is that the bureaucratic culture seems more similar across a particular border on both sides as opposed to being similar among a country's various border posts. As in, the bureaucracy seemed similar between Honduras and Nicaragua and between Nicaragua and Costa Rica. They're probably just trying to match the other guy's bureaucratic loopholes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_p6KcV-L.jpg My route map through Costa Rica. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_v7PhU-L.jpg The skies opened up as the rainy season had officially started as I made my way to Playa del Coco, a beach town about an hour south of the border to stay with ADVer Chris. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_M4fEv-L.jpg The view from Chris' apartment, looking across the bay. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_v8deD-L.jpg The well-furnished compound. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_H38Vf-L.jpg Chris' Land Rover Defender at his girlfriend Anna and her dad's motorcycle and car repair shop. I got a good deal on a new chain that was a left over from a Honda Africa Twin repair job. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_iMjtV-L.jpg Chris and his KTM 990s being greeted by Anna'a various pit bulls. They were all super friendly. Chris used to race professionally in the AMA Motocross Championship and traveled around the US and South Africa with the KTM factory team along with Red Bull sponsorship. He's currently taking it easy in Costa Rica and discovering all the good off-road riding that's to be had. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_uhaK6-L.jpg Leading me out of town on my way to San Jose. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_6FCzd-L.jpg It was nice and sunny in the morning and then the rains kicked in after lunch. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_iVAAu-L.jpg A typical set meal called a consado of rice, beans and chicken with some veggies for 2200 Colones ($1 = CL500). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_H5uAN-L.jpg As I was riding the steep, hilly road in heavy rains getting into San Jose, I came around a corner and found a tree had freshly taken down a telephone wire pole. We were the first few people on site. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_6QGJh-L.jpg One of the drivers lifted up the wires enough for me to get under. These were the first few rains of the season and anything that was loosely held together is going to get washed away. The new rains also made the roads slick as it was washing away all the oils from the road surface. A few corners further down, I had to down-shift to first gear to really slow down for this sharp hair-pin turn and with the roads so slick, the rear tire broke loose and the bike went down. We slid for a few feet before stopping and no injury to me as I immediately stood up and picked up the bike with the help of a passing rider. Only damage on the bike was a broken highway peg. No pictures as it was too steep to park the bike and traffic was coming. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_2LQWq-L.jpg I made it safely to La Moto, a motorcycle accessory shop in San Jose, where ADV rider Mischa works. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_VaLeq-L.jpg Mischa's adjusting my rear spring, raising it up a bit to reduce how much the bike sags with all the weight on the rear. The shop is run by John, who's an ex-AMA superbike racer. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_iJted-L.jpg Their Nicaraguan mechanic, Elvis, fabricating a new highway peg. The original one worked well to protect the rest of the bike from damage like the shift lever and engine casing. It worked as a frame slider. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_TFYA6-L.jpg Outside Mischa's house in San Jose. His family moved from Germany about 20 years ago due to his father's health requiring warmer climes. Mishca used to work in the tourism industry before switching into the motorcycle accessory business. He's riding KTMs. I was in San Jose mainly to procure visas from the South American embassies and addresses in San Jose are unique because they don't use street names but rather give distances from landmarks. Mischa showed me where all the embassies were on Google Earth and using GPS coordinates, I had no problem navigating my way around the city. Thanks Mischa! http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_GuKbH-L.jpg Riding up to Volcan Irazu, about an hour southeast of San Jose. In the morning, the tilled fertile farm land on the flanks of the volcano were exhaling moisture as the sun warmed it up. It looked like the volcano was breathing through its sides. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_jX43s-L.jpg The main crater of Volcan Irazu at a height of 3,300 m (11,000 ft). The crater itself was 300 m (1,000 ft) deep and 1 km (3,300 ft) in diameter. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_i9gyq-L.jpg Another view of the crater as the clouds quickly rolled in. To get good views, you have to come up here early in the morning as by 9:30 am, the clouds were rolling in. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_9mc2H-L.jpg A group of local bikers from San Jose gathering around my bike and asking questions about the trip. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_4c5TK-L.jpg Riding above the clouds. The road up and down the volcano was a blast to ride with nice turns and good long distance views. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_s8zEj-L.jpg Heading back down to the valley, dropping 1,500 m (5,000 ft) in about 35 kms (22 miles). |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_KWzuM-L.jpg Farmers using the roadway to move their cattle between grazing areas. They looked highly suspicious of me. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_r7Y2Y-L.jpg Viewpoint of lush valleys heading towards Turrialba. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_MsiXi-L.jpg Nice riding the whole day. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_p8tKH-L.jpg Foggy and twisty roads leading from the volcano down into the jungle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_6pwuL-L.jpg The only country admitting bad roads ahead. Translation "road in bad shape". http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_jtqwh-L.jpg Down on the flat eastern plains heading to the Caribbean coast. This is still a banana republic, but tourism is the big earner for the country these days. The blue bags are to protect the bananas from insects. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_Vazcx-L.jpg Bananas - coming soon to a grocery store near you. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_678tb-L.jpg I caught up with this Harley-Davidson motorcycle group, the Steel Angels. They were out on a nice Saturday ride. Nice to see them using proper hand signals and displaying good group riding skills. When one rider stopped, the back marker stopped with him and the middle marker filtered to the back. I rode with them for a while, but they were cruising too slow even for me on the DR around 70 kmh (43 mph) and I wanted to be doing at least 85 kmh (53 mph), so I found a nice long straight and passed the whole group. There were about 30 riders. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_uy88u-L.jpg Spending a day in the Caribbean beach town of Puerto Viejo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_xhK5i-L.jpg The next morning, I woke up to very loud thunder and heavy rainfall. But it was all done in a few hours and the sun and blue sky came out again. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_WEYnj-L.jpg Walking into town to buy some groceries. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_jiatE-L.jpg Sunsets on a beach with coconut trees can never grow old. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_fE2Q2-L.jpg The place where I stayed, Crocodile Surf Camp. Every business in town is milking everything they can out of the rasta movement. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_Uaetr-L.jpg The cabins at Crocodile Surf Camp. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_4jTRo-L.jpg I had the room on the end for $10 a night. I thought about camping initially for $6, but with the heavy rains, was glad I got a room with a fan and WiFi. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_pjVCL-L.jpg Heading to the Panamanian border at Sixaola. |
Panama, Part 1: Boquete and Chitre
Panama, the last country in Central America before the big South. Known globally for the successful Panama Canal, it's also well-known among travelers as the Pan-American highway ends in the jungle province of Darien and there is no road connecting to the South American continent. This presents most travelers with the issue of flying across the Darien Gap or sailing around it. I made some arrangements a few months back with Ludwig, the captain of the Stahlratte, a 40 meter ship plying the waters between the San Blas islands of Panama to Cartagena, Colombia. My rush through Central America was to make sure I would make it on time for the boat. I got to Panama with enough time to spend a few days in some of the smaller cities and managed to head down to Yaviza, the last town on the Pan-American highway in the Darien. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_Htqfm-L.jpg There are two regular crossings on the southern side of the border between Costa Rica and Panama, but the one on the northern side here, at Sixaola/Guabito is the more interesting one as the border crossing is an old railroad track bridge. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_dJfKu-L.jpg It's one way of course and I went early in the morning to make sure I could take my time in getting across and not be rushed by traffic. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_Ta4uF-L.jpg Slowly working my way across the bridge. The officers on the Costa Rican side said to take the left lane as the planks were better. This was better as well as I could slide my left leg along the raised pipe and keep the right foot on the rear brake. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_rVR39-L.jpg At one section there is no railing to protect you if you fall over, so don't look down and just keep going. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_cfKjp-L.jpg Yup, semi-trucks cross here as well. This border crossing was quite relaxed but Panamanian immigration said I had to pay $30 for a tourist visa, after being told by the embassy in San Jose that I would need no visa. But it was no hassle, they just processed it there. $15 insurance for the bike was required. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_TEejt-L.jpg My route map through Panama. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_45vuX-L.jpg Local transportation in Gaubito, Panama. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_W7fTV-L.jpg Nice twisty roads heading south towards Chiriqui Grande. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_kSmyt-L.jpg Lunch of rice and beans with chicken in a sauce and potato salad for $2. Panama uses the US dollar as its currency. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_LCjfJ-L.jpg Heading up from the Caribbean coast over the Continental Divide to the Pacific coast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_iejEQ-L.jpg At the divide with the Pacific Ocean in view far away down there. Elevation was around 1,200 m (4,000 ft). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_4FZcb-L.jpg You think I'm loaded down? :p http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...90_YZ2gS-L.jpg A localized moving column of rain. I got rained on a bit here and there but managed to avoid the real heavy stuff. The intensity of the storms are just amazing. I reached Boquete by around 4 pm starting in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_tdZGq-L.jpg At CouchSurfer Ellen Ring's house in Potrerillos, near Boquete. Ellen moved down from Texas a few years ago and after working in finance in Panama City, she's moved out to the milder mountain life and is now promoting tourism in Panama with her site CheapPanamaVacation.com. Tourism in Panama is not as developed as Costa Rica or Mexico, but has a lot of potential. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_y973k-L.jpg I work up in the morning to a flat rear tire, the first one of the trip. I have a heavy duty rear tube, so it helps in supporting the form of the tire and not fully collapsing. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_ow5AS-L.jpg Wrestled to break the bead but finally got there with tube pulled out. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_UV9sx-L.jpg Something sharp poked through here... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_E5YH6-L.jpg ...causing this corresponding hole. I thought the heavy duty rubber tube would withstand more abuse, but I guess if it's sharp enough, what can you do besides patch it and ride on. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_QRyBp-L.jpg Scrubbing the area around the puncture to prepare it for the patch. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_nPJfc-L.jpg New patch applied and good to go. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_P5U8B-L.jpg Having a tasty lunch, after slogging away all morning on the tire, of rice with chicken in a garlicy sauce with bean soup and desserted plantains for $2. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_PkzEY-L.jpg While Ellen and I were having a few drinks and waiting out the afternoon rainstorm, this pickup pulled up selling fish out the back. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_uPsj3-L.jpg We bought a 3 lb Amber Jack for $4.50. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_uKdiP-L.jpg Having the fish cleaned and filleted. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_QtwhX-L.jpg And cooking it up for Ellen in a thin batter of egg with flour, chili powder and garlic, along with lentils and rice. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_UswD5-L.jpg The next morning, going past Boquete, looking for a waterfalls but not coming across it. However, the road was fun and it climbed up to about 1,800 m (6,000 ft). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_i9BVR-L.jpg Having a typical Panamanian breakfast in Boquete of beef or chicken in a sauce with a flour-based deep fried tortilla, resembling an Indian poori. The sauce and the tortilla were really tasty. Cost $1.50. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_pqTvS-L.jpg The valley with Boquete down on the left side and the Continental Divide rising behind it. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_85v65-L.jpg Back on the Pan-Am heading south, I saw a DR in my mirrors and pulled over to talk with Dan here. He's from California and is taking a few months off to buzz down to Tierra del Fuego. Small world, as he emailed me a year or two ago asking about my Happy Trails panniers before he purchased a set. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_rNZTk-L.jpg sanDRina was happy to mingle with some family. And without knowing it we pulled over in front of Policia Nacional, inviting a document check by the officer. All was in order and we got going. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_cd9JW-L.jpg Dan was shooting for Panama City that night and I wasn't going as far, so he sped ahead. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_djDSW-L.jpg In the small town of Chitré, on the Gulf of Panama, staying with CouchSurfer Arilys and her family. This is with her dad in front of a bakery. Crazy wall painting. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_oNmC3-L.jpg With CouchSurfer Arilys in her home. She's a psychology professor at the local university and is a huge rock fan, recently going to Metallica and Guns N' Roses concerts. They didn't speak much English, so it was Spanish immersion time again. I can manage to convey my ideas across and can hold decent conversations. I'm slowly picking up more vocabulary with time. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_X5zBf-L.jpg Having a simple and tasty dinner of sauteed shrimp with rice and tomatoes with fresh pineapple juice. Arilys doesn't eat much meat and really enjoys rice with tomatoes. She prepares the white rice quite nicely with oil and other spices and the fresh tomatoes go really well with it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_xP3Lv-L.jpg Doing laundry the next day. Eww, that's a murky brown. Lots of sweat. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_peESE-L.jpg Feels good to wash everything. I tried washing in Costa Rica but the air was so humid on the Caribbean coast that the clothes didn't dry overnight. Here, Arilys had a spinning machine that squeezed the water out (like in locker rooms at swimming pools) and then the clothes dried within an hour. I also washed my gloves, helmet liner and boot liners. My main riding jacket, pants and the bike have been washed with the heavy rains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_hP9XR-L.jpg Heading out to the local beach, Playa El Rompió near Los Santos. Arilys' boyfriend is a big surfer and there's an active surf culture down here with much better beaches further south on the Peninsula de Azuero. The boats are waiting for high tide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_8tKDK-L.jpg Playa El Rompió at sunset. The beach is very shallow and each wave was coming in quite far. Nice mirror effect with the retreating water. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_6aEJV-L.jpg Birds teasing the tide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_9MvnU-L.jpg Getting down low to meet the incoming tide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_bRnkz-L.jpg Being treated to a fish fry dinner at El Mirador, a lookout restaurant on a nearby hill. Arilys' dad works for the Ministry of Health and travels by road all over Panama and I was trying to get some information about the road to Yaviza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_Sfof4-L.jpg Fish fry of Corvina with patacones (squashed, fried plantains), washed down with cheladas - lager beer with lime and salt. Her dad and I added some hot sauce and made them micheladas. |
Panama, Part 2: Canal and Darien
Into Panama City to see the canal and onwards south to the end of the Pan-Am in Central America at Yaviza in the Darien. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_8zMum-L.jpg After a nice two days in Chitré, I continued on south to Panama City. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_oCnYd-L.jpg Crossing the Bridge of the Americas (Puente de las Américas) as it goes over the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_eKQPb-L.jpg Riding alongside the Panama Canal Railway, which was built in 1855 in response to the Gold Rush in California and the numerous people traversing from the East Coast of the US to California, avoiding the wild interior. They took ships down to Panama, crossed the 50 mile isthmus and sailed onward to California. The railroad was also pivotal in Panama being chosen for the canal as it greatly helped during construction in hauling equipment in and debris out. Today, it helps transfer cargo from one side to the other in addition to ships traversing the canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_sC9iQ-L.jpg The first of three locks in the Panama Canal, Miraflores. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_hLrBh-L.jpg sanDRina at the Miraflores Locks in the Panama Canal with a Hapag-Llyod Panamax cargo ship traversing the lock. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_sL6KL-L.jpg Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal with a cargo ship in the far lock. The Panama Canal was constructed to reduce shipping times from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean, saving around 13,000 kms (8,125 miles) of going around Cape Horn. It costs about $100,000 per transit of the canal for big cargo ships compared to around $1 million that would be spent in fuel and other costs to go around Cape Horn. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_88BuN-L.jpg The Hapag-Lloyd Panamax cargo ship at the last lock before reaching the Pacific Ocean. Instead of cutting straight through the continental divide, which the French tried initially when they started building the canal in 1880, the American design uses locks and dams to raise ships to an altitude of 26 m (86 ft) before dropping them back to sea level. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_RsQqY-L.jpg Slowly being lowered as the water level drops in the lock. Panama was originally a state in Colombia and the US helped bring about independence to Panama in 1903 so that they could construct and operate the canal, which they did till 1999 when they turned over the operation to Panama. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_CMX7r-L.jpg Two more Panamax cargo ships coming through. Panamax is a designation for the maximum allowed dimensions of a ship that is allowed to pass through the locks of the Panama Canal. Ships are designed specifically to fit through the locks. Supertankers that are much wider and longer than the locks are referred to as Post Panamax. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_uvRRU-L.jpg The water is pumped from the top lock to the bottom lock (note the first ship is almost level with the ocean surface now). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_6gYcF-L.jpg Being released into the Pacific Ocean. Look at that thing, it's 13 semi-trucks wide! Each time a lock is opened, 101,000 cubic meters (26.7 million gallons) of fresh water is released into the ocean. Seeing the wastefulness of this, the canal authority in cooperation with the World Business Council for Sustainable Development has designed into their future expansion water-saving basins at each lock that will reuse 60% of the water in each transit. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_b74r8-L.jpg The next ship being lowered as the water level equalizes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_b6Rzb-L.jpg Once the water level is equal, the gates in the lock open... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_HtdKh-L.jpg ...and the ship is tugged through to the next lock. The electric tug trains cost $2 million each and about 6-8 of them are used on each ship to help stabilize it thru the lock. There's only 2 ft of clearance on each side of Panamax ships. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...06_evvK3-L.jpg Heading down to the last lock. It takes about 10 hours for a ship to transit the whole canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_pyJHK-L.jpg The containers securely tied down. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_igk8n-L.jpg The Panamax CCNI Punta Arenas, heading to Chile. Biggest users of the canal are the US, China and Chile. Most impressive to see this engineering marvel in person, paying respect to the thousands of workers who lost their lives in its construction. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_Passh-L.jpg The Puente de las Américas, one of two permanent bridges connecting the north and south American land masses as it passes over the Panama Canal. I'm geo-technically on the southern American land mass :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_LAATo-L.jpg Heading down the Calzada de Amador (Causeway), which juts out into the ocean for about 3 kms. It was constructed by the debris from the canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_grt2k-L.jpg It's a pleasant drive with space for jogging and bicycling; popular with residents and tourists. Note the ship on the right side, it was the first one I saw through the canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_jKhy7-L.jpg Panama City skyline from the islands in Panama Bay. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_oRGxV-L.jpg Panama City skyline with boats. It's probably the most modern looking Central American city I've come across, some say resembling Miami, with more English spoken here :p http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_VcZ5K-L.jpg Heading back into the city with a view of the Puente de las Américas. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_RLiFf-L.jpg Casco Viejo, the old town in Panama City. It's a bit run down, but it's being slowly restored. Before construction on the Panama Canal began, all of Panama City was in Casco Viejo. It was abandoned for the new city as economic expansion dictated more real estate. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_BDHFK-L.jpg Staying at Hospedaje Casco Viejo for $10. My first backpacker hostel of the trip. The area was considered dodgy a few years ago, but it's quite safe nowadays. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_pVkGi-L.jpg Casco Viejo was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003 and its restoration continues. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_FSs8h-L.jpg Iglesia de La Merced, an old church still active with service. It looks like new construction was built to support the old facade. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_sHhGu-L.jpg Parque Herrera at sunset. Lots of locals were milling about and the place was very active. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_JrEXK-L.jpg Coming across a restaurant, run by Chinese with good looking food in the display window and approval from exiting locals. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_oMuYL-L.jpg Rice and beans with chicken in a sauce and fried plantain and special sides of fried chicken gizzards and liver. Mmm, mmm, good. I've been craving me some gizzards. Cost $2.70. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_8NPAs-L.jpg Walking back to the hostel I came across this small plaza where the chic outdoor restaurant in the corner was piping beautiful jazz music and I just had to sit down and soak it in with the fresh evening breeze and clear night skies up above. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_3narX-L.jpg With one day left to catch my boat to Colombia, I decided to head out early to get to Yaviza, the town at the end of the Pan-American highway in Central America. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_THHtP-L.jpg Catching a nice sunrise over the eastern part of Panama City. The southern corridor road cuts across the bay and is tolled. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_kdkQe-L.jpg Heading towards Tocumen with the sun breaking through. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_GHRP3-L.jpg After Chepo, the road gets smaller and there were numerous one-lane bridges with sheet metal coverings; slippery when wet. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_GoiWU-L.jpg This ride was quite a challenge a few years ago when it was unpaved, but now it's a leisurely paved ride. But the scenery is still nice and there's some twisties here and there. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_6YAyD-L.jpg Welcome to Darien, the famous remote province of Panama with less than three people per square kilometer. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_2KN4e-L.jpg It's a UNESCO World Heritage site for its primeval landscape, which hasn't changed much in a million years due to lack of development. Surprisingly all these trees haven't been felled by loggers and it feels good to ride under the shadow of such lush forests. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_rxK3F-L.jpg The scenery changes a bit (less trees around) as you get near Yaviza and the road gets twistier. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_99TRr-L.jpg Welcome to Yaviza, the last town on the Pan-American highway until Colombia. The reason they haven't connected the road to the Pan-Am in Colombia is mainly because of the tough jungle terrain with lots of rivers and swamps to cross. I'm sure they could if they really wanted to and might at some point in the future, but for now, there is no intention to connect the road as it would destroy a lot of virgin forest and might spill over the fighting from Colombia into Panama and could ease drug smuggling. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_pcnsW-L.jpg The Pan-Am just ends into this single lane concrete road as it circles around the township. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_Ks4tg-L.jpg There are military guards all through the Darien and they take down your passport details in case something goes wrong. Once you enter Yaviza, you're directed to go check in at the local police station and have to tell them what your intentions are (staying the night, just having lunch, etc). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_dRcxd-L.jpg This could be considered the symbolic end of the road as the Darien continues on the other side of this bridge. People have crossed the Darien Gap overland into Colombia, but it's a serious expedition. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_Ym7Um-L.jpg Locals pulling ashore with plantains to sell. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_FeKxH-L.jpg You can get a taste of what lies ahead in the jungle. Colombia is just about 150 kms away. I'm happy that there's a gap here as it adds a bit of excitement in getting to Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_veSdG-L.jpg Having lunch at a decent looking restaurant in Yaviza. There were lots of locals about, but not unsafe in anyway. Having left Panama City at 6 am, I got to Yaviza by 10:30. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_CgVmb-L.jpg Having sancocho, a typical food around the whole of Panama, basically a soup with some meat and cassava. This one was with goat meat. Cost $1.50. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_aiCpZ-L.jpg The colorful public transportation of Central America. All through these countries, the buses, usually old American school buses are decorated and painted in wild colors. This isn't the best example, but this was the last one I would be seeing so had to snag a pic of it. Made it back from Yaviza to the town of Chepo. Last night in Central America, boarding the boat tomorrow. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_wMV8n-L.jpg My ride back from Yaviza was exciting as I incurred another flat. I was slowly losing air in the rear tire after lunch and decided to just keep adding air and riding it to my destination for the night where I could work on it leisurely. This small nail was the culprit. I found it as it poked me; good thing for that tetanus shot. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_CM562-L.jpg Having a nice place to work on it at the back of Posado Caledron in Chepo. Room cost $12 plus $3 for the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_YvNSx-L.jpg Using the Tyrepliers Beadbreaker successfully. It works well on one side and the other side usually requires a bit of wrangling with a tire iron to get the bead to break. (The bead on a tire is the contact area that secures the rubber tire to the metal rim). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_PvQU9-L.jpg Three huge 15" tire irons, making an easy job of getting the tire on and off the rim. Not really easy, but much better than using standard smaller tire irons. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_6J5V5-L.jpg What a coincidence that this new puncture was just about an inch away from my first puncture. I thought at first that the patch on the first puncture had failed, but I found the angled gouge from the new nail. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_BrWSn-L.jpg I had to remove the first patch and tried a larger patch to cover both punctures but the patch wasn't sticking since I didn't have the right tools to overcome the curvature of the heavy duty tube, so I walked over to the local tire mechanic and had him patch the tube. He's grinding the area here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_swtLX-L.jpg He applied hot vulcanizing rubber to cover both punctures and set it in this press to cure. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_E6hui-L.jpg While waiting, another customer came by for an inner tube for a truck. He's running it through the water tub to check for leaks. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_3oCdo-L.jpg $1 for a nice, thick, huge patch. He liked the heavy duty tube and complained of the cheap, thin Chinese tubes that are widely available here. I'm going to keep patching this tube. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_XDdwM-L.jpg Two hours later, tire is back on and ready to ride to Carti tomorrow to load onto the boat. Enjoying a nice chowmein at the local Chinese restaurant for $2.50. |
Sailing On The Stahlratte, Part 1: Getting on
Journeying overland from North to South America presents all travelers with the question of how to cross the Darien Gap, a 150 kms (95 mile) stretch of dense jungle that has seen no development due to its harsh environment of swamps and rivers. It's for the better to preserve some raw nature in today's high-paced world. The Pan-American highway ends in Yaviza, Panama and picks up past the jungle in Colombia. The quick option is to fly over from Panama to Bogota or Quito, but it's also the expensive option. The more fun option is to put the bike on a sailboat and cross over to Cartagena, Colombia, across the Caribbean Sea. There have been quite a few riders who've taken the sailboat option and had a bad experience as the captain was either inexperienced or didn't deliver as promised. With that in mind, I wanted to make sure to sail with the most reliable captain and boat in these waters: Ludwig on the Stahlratte, a 40 meter (130 ft) steel-hulled sail ship, built in 1903 and still going strong. I contacted Ludwig before I began my trip and planned the Central America portion of the ride in order to get to the boat on time. May 10 was the last sailing date before the Stahlratte was going into maintenance for about two months in Cartagena, and as I got delayed leaving the US, this was the earliest I could make it down here. When Ludwig informed me that the trip was booked completely by a group, I asked if there was someway I could still come aboard as part of the crew and work my way across, not requiring much comforts, as I was mainly looking to just get across to Colombia. He happily agreed and said he could use the extra help and I would only need to pay $360 to transport the motorcycle over. I was feeling good about this and excited to be part of the crew of a sailing ship, that too on my first voyage across open waters. Ludwig, along with all the other captains, offers a four day sailing trip where the first two days are spent exploring the beautiful San Blas Archipelago and then sailing across open waters to Cartagena in about 30 hours. I came on board a day early to meet the crew and get familiar with my duties. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_bc8VH-L.jpg The Stahlratte was anchored near Carti on the Caribbean side of Panama (upper-right on map) and from Chepo (blue marker), I had to take the Llano-Carti road across the divide (black line along the white makers). The road is to the right of the right-most white marker. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_iyJXn-L.jpg The route of the voyage from Carti, Panama to Cartagena, Colombia. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_mb6cJ-L.jpg It was a beautiful ride as the road crossed the continental divide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_mxQCK-L.jpg The road was mostly paved, but had gravel spots in the troughs. The route also steeply descended and ascended rapidly. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_NgmQt-L.jpg Entrance fee of $9 required by the Kuna Indians as this is a protected area. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_xssTJ-L.jpg Riding through dense jungle with a bit of rain. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_VQyf9-L.jpg The fast-flowing Rio Carti Grande, which was about a meter deep. In the dry season it's easy to cross the river, but with the start of the rainy season, there was no way. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_GrZLs-L.jpg The road picking up on the other side. They're building a new bridge, which should be done in a year or so. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_MVbdw-L.jpg Ludwig arranged with the Kunas to have a canoe ready for me to take me to the Stahlratte. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_Qrhut-L.jpg I felt like I've done my part in getting to the end of the road here on time and now things were happening to get me to Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_WgdBP-L.jpg Heaving the front wheel into the canoe. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_A7rVU-L.jpg Balancing on the frame and turning her forward. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_9CXRE-L.jpg And lifting the rear of the bike into the canoe. The guy at the back was holding onto my rear tool tube and snapped a zip-tie, but besides that, it went quite smoothly. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_96iU6-L.jpg Aboard my first canoe with sanDRina. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_fjpAG-L.jpg They used planks on either side to stabilize the bike but I remained sitting on her, just in case. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_Go8Df-L.jpg Heading out. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_8reVz-L.jpg Kunas paddling upstream in a slim canoe. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_mxXzs-L.jpg The lead boatsman checked the silt build along the way, from perhaps known sand bars. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_EUzfB-L.jpg Cruising down the Rio Carti Grande. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_p7Kj5-L.jpg Heading out to the open sea. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_9Q5vg-L.jpg Huge pieces of driftwood at the mouth of the river. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_zQfvr-L.jpg The brown, murky, sediment-filled color of the river slowly getting diluted by the blueness of the sea. The Stahlratte off in the distance. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_RXRqm-L.jpg Coming up to the Stahlratte. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_TDUQN-L.jpg The Stahlratte, meaning "steel rat". A Bremen, Germany registered vessel. It was built in 1903 in The Netherlands and started life out as a fishing vessel. It was bought in 1984 by the Association of Advancement for Sailing Navigation in Germany and converted to the current twin mast schooner layout and is heading on a long term voyage around the world. Besides a hefty diesel engine, two generators, a seawater-desalination unit, she's also equipped with all the necessary safety equipment, including satellite communications. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_QvJUN-L.jpg Pulling up alongside. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_J5x2y-L.jpg The Captain, Ludwig getting the ropes ready to lift sanDRina on board. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_B8xJf-L.jpg Yeah, just as we got close to the ship, the bike started leaning over with me still sitting on it and I feared we were going to fall in the water. Quick save by the Kunas. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_BcRex-L.jpg Ludwig's First Officer, Roland or Roli, stabilizing the bike as she was winched up. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_BsjEy-L.jpg Easy does it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_x62vs-L.jpg Getting some air. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_ydu2P-L.jpg The pulleys used for lifting the bike on board. She was tied around the handle bars and the luggage frame. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_dYEdC-L.jpg Safely on board the Stahlratte. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_sSFqQ-L.jpg Passing my panniers onto the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_BHAtM-L.jpg Roli securing the bike to the side of the ship. He's also a rider and has been traveling for many years, setting off from Austria. He custom-built a motorcycle and rode around South America for five years. After Ludwig helped him in getting across, he decided to stay on board and help restore the ship before finding passage onwards to Asia, hoping the Stahlratte heads that way. He's skilled in electronics, among other things and re-did lots of the wiring on the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_qfGcH-L.jpg The canoe that we came in. Cost $20. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_6pmUs-L.jpg Woohoo, finally on board the Stahlratte! I was impressed at the size of the ship and being greater than 30 meters (100 ft), she can be called a ship instead of a boat. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_q5fgN-L.jpg On the upper deck looking back at the captain's bridge. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_bkMbW-L.jpg Looking ahead at the ship's wheel, used for manual control. The two levers beside it control the rudder and engine speed. She also had auto-pilot, which was used once we were on open waters. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_Ywo5b-L.jpg Ludwig preparing dinner in the ship's galley of steak and potatoes. They liked to eat well and both were good cooks. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_nCGC5-L.jpg Having dinner at the main dining table on the upper level. The girl on the right is Peggy, a friend of a friend of Ludwig's who spent about two weeks on board, who was leaving the next day for Costa Rica when the main passengers were due to arrive. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_ag7Qg-L.jpg The interior of the Stahlratte - looking towards the front from the library/office into the kitchen. The hatch door behind the bench was the entrance to my cabin. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_tb65C-L.jpg Heading down into my cabin for the trip. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_YyNAP-L.jpg It was a good-sized room at the back of the ship and that fan made it a pleasant journey. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_DAmG9-L.jpg The cabin was right behind the engine room and there were some diesel fumes but at least I had one small window to the outside world. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_f79JY-L.jpg Ladder leading out of my dungeon. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_rm3yu-L.jpg The back of the ship where Roli slept. Watermelons in the net. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_5nSnd-L.jpg The exhaust pipe from the engine exiting the side of the ship with a workbench above it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_DiLM4-L.jpg Food stores in the back of lots of fresh vegetables and fruits. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_Hm7Va-L.jpg The kitchen preparation area and indoor dining. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...53_pZ9uT-L.jpg Cooler stacked with sodas and beer (part of my duties were to keep it restocked). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_u4i47-L.jpg Filling up on fresh water for the trip. There was an on board desalinization unit that could pump out 120 liters of fresh water in an hour. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_HBRxd-L.jpg Pantry with lots of food for the trip. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_ZK9SW-L.jpg Heading down to the main passenger cabin from the kitchen. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_nDKiG-L.jpg The main passenger cabin, which slept about 20 people. |
Sailing On The Stahlratte, Part 2: Cruising The Caribbean
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_f39oy-L.jpg Setting sail on Day 1 of the voyage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_dLJNX-L.jpg The jungled mountains of the Darien staying close as we hugged the coast heading down the San Blas Archipelago. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_Ak33G-L.jpg Ship detail on an island. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_hsLTy-L.jpg Arriving at Isla Moron (in Kuna language: Narrasgandup Dummat), our destination for the first night. Bike was covered to protect against the salt spray. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_AfQFp-L.jpg As soon as we dropped anchor, Steven here jumped in. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_C4NQ8-L.jpg Getting ashore and exploring the island. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_4X9Ef-L.jpg The steel rat, rusting a bit and requiring regular care, but a handsome sight nonetheless. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_LsKtz-L.jpg Heading ashore in the dinghy to prepare dinner. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_TRDaj-L.jpg Roli in the dinghy. I basically stuck to Roli and helped in whatever he asked. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_X7t9g-L.jpg The girls collecting shells on Isla Moron with our home for the next few days anchored offshore. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_PYTyC-L.jpg Pristine beach all to ourselves. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_EgKrT-L.jpg Eliza and the Stahlratte. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_mqvYk-L.jpg Roli getting a chicken barbeque going. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_Fwozn-L.jpg Mmm, barbequed Jamaican jerk chicken. Besides Cartagena, Ludwig also makes trips to Jamaica and gets some good spices while he's there. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_dK2ng-L.jpg Having dinner on the island as dusk grew into night. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_KG3rt-L.jpg Sailing about two hours the next morning to our destination for the day, Coco Bandero (in Kuna: Ordup). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_4vU7n-L.jpg An island for the day. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_rphoG-L.jpg Too small, ok, here's another one nearby. Amazing to see so many small islands across the landscape. This is all protected area and the Kunas harvest the coconuts from all the islands. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_La4gk-L.jpg If you're really bad, you might get castaway on this two-tree island. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_hWSEr-L.jpg Shipwreck. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_DTeQT-L.jpg One of the cyclists, Parker having a swing on the boom line. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_ZWZbZ-L.jpg Letting go... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_xWN5H-L.jpg ...and plunging into the Caribbean. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...61_Xtgvz-L.jpg View down from the crow's nest up on the main mast with people relaxing in the net up front. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_uFX22-L.jpg Looking back at the ship. Black netting was put up to provide shade. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_LuweA-L.jpg While anchored for the day, Ludwig had some Kunas scrub the side of the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_3m7Hi-L.jpg View of our island for the day from the crow's nest. I tried snorkeling here for the first time and really liked it - nice window into the world under the ocean surface. It was also my first time swimming across deep open waters and I'm not a strong swimmer but managed to make it to the island from the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_5cifH-L.jpg Preparing orange juice in the kitchen with the passengers whose turn of kitchen duty it was. Along with Roli and I, about four people took turns each day helping with the food duties. The guy in the middle is Seth, the organizing cyclist and the three girls are sisters: (L-R) Maddie, Hannah and Eliza (Seth's girlfriend). Everyone on board was super friendly and cordial. Giant Roli getting in on the picture. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_ozJDy-L.jpg Seth is actually sponsored by fishing companies for his cycling trip and they're all about fishing in interesting places. He and Steven caught these two fish on the island and Roli is cleaning them up for dinner. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_X6RNs-L.jpg One of the girls, Danielle, wanted to learn how to clean a fish and Roli is showing her how to make fillets. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_tFeba-L.jpg Fried fish for dinner. Along with the fish Seth caught, we had barracuda. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_d2WCs-L.jpg Dinner on top, the night before setting sail for Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_HGR6y-L.jpg Cleaning the ship, getting ready to sail. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_AGDog-L.jpg Breakfast with a view. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_RiDiS-L.jpg After breakfast on the third day, we got the ship ready for the open water voyage. Ludwig got a weather report from his agent in Cartagena that there were 3-4 meter (10-13 ft) swells on the voyage ahead. If it had been greater than 7 meter (23 ft) swells, Ludwig said we would wait it out. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_EPzdE-L.jpg Roli cranking the bow motor to reel in the anchor. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...45_K4Ayj-L.jpg The anchor raising up and we're underway. Note the rich blue color of the water. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_ygvLE-L.jpg Hoisting up the sails to add stability to the ship. To move forward only with the sails would take longer and since the ship was on a schedule, it was an engine-powered voyage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_5ibbJ-L.jpg Dolphins surfing the bow of the Stahlratte! http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_FWamb-L.jpg A huge pod of them kept us company for a while before breaking off. The ship was moving wildly up and down and we were wondering how they know not to get hit by the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_ZTgrr-L.jpg Ludwig at the captain's wheel with the sails fully deployed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_wd2A8-L.jpg The swells on the first day were quite impressive. The ship pitched up and down as she rode the swells. We would see a big swell coming our way and everyone would brace and yee-haw as we went up and over it. It was wilder than any roller coaster ride I've been on. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_XYmWG-L.jpg Everyone got a little sick and some people were not feeling good the whole voyage. The mood became quite somber as everyone found their place of comfort on the ship and tried to sleep it off. It was better to be up here in the back than in their beds down low in the front. I started taking sea-sickness pills before getting on the ship, but it was still too much for me and I had to hurl twice. But I felt much better after that and keeping busy also helped. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_Rg67p-L.jpg Preparing breakfast on Day 4, last day of the voyage. My usual duties were to cut tomatoes, pineapple, prepare the cheese and meat plate and anything else that was required. I actually enjoy cutting vegetables, so it wasn't so bad. And I liked how Roli placed importance on presentation as you eat with your eyes as much as you do with your mouth. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_BKwd4-L.jpg The stove with supports to prevent the pots from moving while we were underway. The three little pots on top were used to make espresso - good strong coffee. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_ri34X-L.jpg The view from the kitchen. I had to keep an eye on the horizon to quell my queasiness. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_8vRRN-L.jpg Getting sprayed with salt water as we crashed down from a swell. Good thing for that bike cover, but my rotors still got rusty. I was told to spray the bike down with WD-40 before getting on board to protect against the salt, but forgot about it as I was repairing my flat tire. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_6UXzT-L.jpg Dolphins again as we neared Cartagena. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_AYchZ-L.jpg Looking back from the bow (front). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...86_GAB25-L.jpg Ludwig keeping a watchful eye on the waters ahead. He and Roli took turns through the night to man the ship. I asked if I could help, but they said they still needed to be on watch because I wasn't experienced in this, of course. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_sFdNW-L.jpg Reading up top by the captain's wheel. After I got over my queasiness, I spent lots of time up here with a great view all around. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_kRoDE-L.jpg Looking ahead on the starboard (right) side and first land sighting ahead on the right. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_fDoDK-L.jpg Everyone feeling better as the swells died down near Cartagena. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_scMBq-L.jpg Sun setting on a wonderful voyage across the Caribbean Sea from Panama to Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_YYRFw-L.jpg The tattered German flag indicating where the ship was registered. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_f5pXf-L.jpg Heading into Cartagena with a cargo ship chasing us. If he caught up, we would need to let them pass, since they have higher priority for getting into port. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_DHZ7e-L.jpg Beautiful colors over Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_6p6NV-L.jpg The modern Cartagena skyline, as we pulled into port around 7 pm. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_KXGiN-L.jpg Passing by the cargo ship terminal, Colombia's largest port. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_6avVJ-L.jpg The next morning, Ludwig heading ashore with my bike papers to process the temporary importation. He has to work through a shipping agent and takes care of all the fees. He also got all our passports stamped into Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_dvzhK-L.jpg Waiting a few hours for my customs papers to process. sanDRina, say hello to Cartagena. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_qoEZP-L.jpg Bringing sanDRina ashore in the dinghy. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_2dEJ3-L.jpg I hoped there would be a crane to help unload the bike, but that was wishful thinking. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_2ZrZC-L.jpg We just hauled and dragged her onto the pier. Good thing she's not a pretty bike and doesn't mind a few scars. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_NNXEu-L.jpg Sneaking a picture at the customs office. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_9DEso-L.jpg Free at last in South America! Good to be back on two wheels and happy to have voyaged across the Caribbean sea on the Stahlratte. |
this looks like a great trip !
some day.... |
Colombia, Part 1: Cartagena
After being scared by everybody about how dangerous Colombia was, even though I knew better from other riders, I found a beautiful country filled with numerous warm and beautiful people. The people of Colombia welcomed me with open arms and I understood why so many previous travelers have raved about this recovering nation.
The danger from the guerrillas hasn't been eliminated but it has been greatly reduced and pushed to remote regions. Things changed for the better in the last decade and credit is given to outgoing President Uribe who made Colombia safe again for its citizens and foreigners to travel freely without the fear of kidnappings. Along with stability has come a boom in the economy and a growing motorcycle culture. I contacted a local rider, Fernando Morales, through HorizonsUnlimited in Cartagena and since then was passed on from one riding friend to another in each city as I made my way south. The hospitality of all the riders I've met has made my experience of Colombia all the more rich. My visa was only valid for 3 weeks, due to bureaucratic egos at the embassy in Costa Rica, so I didn't have time to see the eastern part of the country, such as Bogota, etc. My route went south from charming colonial Cartagena to motorcycle center Medellin, then up to the coffee producing region of Armenia. From there, down to bustling Cali, then up to white-washed colonial Popayan and lastly, high altitude Pasto. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_iRNjG-L.jpg The marina, through which I arrived by sailboat on the Stahlratte with modern day Cartagena's skyline of Bocagrande. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_Xihdj-L.jpg The view from Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas of Bocagrande. This fort was built in the 16th and 17th century to help protect Cartagena from invasions by sea or land. The city was ransacked multiple since its inception in 1533 by pirates and other governments, leading to Spain pouring in millions to protect their entrance to the Americas. Cartagena de Indias was the main port from which all the plunderings of colonies further south passed through on their way to Spain. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_6fiUT-L.jpg The fort is built on San Lazaro hill and has numerous tunnels that were used for food and weapons storage, along with escape paths. I explored a few of the tunnels with fellow traveler Sargento and most of them lead into darkness and water, preventing further exploration. The tunnels were constructed in a manner so that footsteps of approaching enemies could be heard. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_P5M4v-L.jpg Canons to repel land attacks. The fort is the grandest the Spaniards built in their colonies and was never penetrated. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_vScYb-L.jpg View of downtown Cartagena from the fort with old town on the left. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_gZ3CP-L.jpg At the northern end of old town, Las Bóvedas, which used to be used for housing ammunition. Meeting up with Fernando Morales, whom I contacted through HorizonsUnlimited and a Mexican motorcycle traveler, Don Sargento, who's been on the road for 3 years and is heading back home. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_KjKvU-L.jpg Walking through the charming streets of colonial old town within the wall that was built around the city to protect it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_CVAiL-L.jpg Cartagena's old town is well known for its handsome balconies that are... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_wd53b-L.jpg ...shrouded in bougainvillea that drip down to the streets, giving off a pleasing scent. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_M8F8h-L.jpg Cartagena is hot, so a visit to the free, air-conditioned Museo de Oro, or Gold Museum is well worth it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_RTrZo-L.jpg The gold artifacts are from the Zenú people who date from the pre-Columbian era. Besides intricate gold workings, the Zenú are also known for their extensive system of channels that drained off floodwater and left a fertile land for cultivation. The weave, a representation of the networked channels, central to their life, was important in all aspects of Zenú culture as they viewed their universe to be a weave, a fabric on which all things existed. The idea is remarkably similar to our current scientific view of the Universe put forward by Albert Einstein as he describes it as a fabric of spacetime, a gravitational grid that gives the Universe its structure. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_nzxEQ-L.jpg A golden cat. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...90_DAHqv-L.jpg One can imagine why the first Spanish explorers became interested in colonizing this new continent. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...53_ExxFr-L.jpg Along with the gold artifacts are numerous ceramics, some dating to 2000 BC. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_RXPZE-L.jpg A stylish headdress. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_mPawb-L.jpg A gold breastplate. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_TzGzM-L.jpg Motorcycles generally aren't allowed in the walled city, but no one seemed to stop us. Parked at Plaza Bolivar. All Suzukis: V-Strom, DR650 and Sargento's Intruder 800. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_kMXi2-L.jpg The colorful streets make for a pleasant stroll. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_juKJd-L.jpg Riding through old town. Sargento's spent three years traveling the Andes and he gave me contact info for all the friends he's made on his trip, whom he said would be glad to help another traveler. His trip website: Ruta Sargento http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_BUWgN-L.jpg Two plus-sized ladies. sanDRina with Fernando Botero's La Gorda Gertrudiz in Plaza de Santo Domingo. Botero is an abstract Colombian artist known for his proportionally exaggerated figures. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_EF4UV-L.jpg Being treated to a thick seafood soup with lots of shrimp, scallops and various other mariscos (seafood). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_iz3Kf-L.jpg Helping Sargento load his motorcycle onto a sailboat for his passage north to Panama and onwards to Mexico. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_FjtzA-L.jpg This boat was taking three motorcycles. On the starboard side is Roman, a Pole from New Jersey and his BMW GS, which was a beast to winch on board. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_cmoh7-L.jpg Heading back to spend more time wandering the walled city. The Government Palace, the seat of the governor of the department of Bolivar. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_KY5RK-L.jpg Streets of old town at dusk. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_6UFhd-L.jpg Watching the sunset from the wall that surrounds old town. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_RRZXh-L.jpg View of old town from the wall as night approaches. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_mKULL-L.jpg Dancing in Plaza Bolivar, under the statue of El Libertador, Simón Bolivar who is credited with kicking the Spanish out of South America and bringing independence to present day Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Panama, Peru and Venezuela in the early 19th century. His hardy fighting spirit and vision for a unified Gran Colombia (encompassing Panama, Colombia, Venezuela and Ecuador) has given him the nickname of George Washington of South America. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_QSr8j-L.jpg Dancing in Plaza Bolivar by Cartagena's African descendants. The city was one of the first to welcome freed African slaves as Bolivar proclaimed to abolish slavery in South America. Just like this, there are central plazas dedicated to Simón Bolivar in cities all through the countries he liberated as well as main avenues named after him, similar to Martin Luther King Jr's name being used throughout the US and Gandhi throughout India. Bolivar went one step further and got a country named after him, Bolivia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_gzqQM-L.jpg Lush gardens of Plaza Bolivar at night. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_kWuhh-L.jpg Water fountain in Plaza Bolivar. The hotness of the day is quenched by the coolness of the evenings in Cartagena. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_YZ6tQ-L.jpg A cathedral in old town. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_HJ8Yj-L.jpg Outdoor evening dining under the restored Iglesia de Santo Domingo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_rx6Bv-L.jpg Cafes with street side dining in old town Cartagena. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_yqBQm-L.jpg Wood framed windows of Porton de Santo Domingo, a restaurant. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_KwKTL-L.jpg I took a tour of Children International's operations in Cartagena. They are a charity managing child sponsorships and for $22 a month, your sponsored child in an impoverished area will be guaranteed a better life through access to education, medical care and general well-being. I sponsor a girl, Lillian in Zambia and hope to visit her next year when I pass through. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_RSq42-L.jpg In the library at one of the centers with a local volunteer and two sponsored children. About 80% of your money gets to your child and the charity has been highly successful. They have centers all through Central and South America, India and Zambia. One thing I like about this charity is the high number of graduated sponsored children who come back to work in their communities to help lift more children out of poverty. Poverty is an issue that can be solved in today's society that just needs more minds working on it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_Zv2TW-L.jpg Getting a tour of the medical center by Mauricio, where along with regular doctor visits, families are taught about good nutrition, as malnutrition is one of the major health concerns in poor communities. This in turn not only helps the sponsored child, but also their family and surrounding community. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_d9p7R-L.jpg The centers have a small staff and then rely on a network of local volunteers to communicate and coordinate activities with the sponsored families. All the volunteer ladies were very friendly and welcoming. The charity encourages visits by sponsors and is very transparent about all its operations. If you would like to help out, please visit: Jammin thru the Global South for Children Intl http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_8dyzf-L.jpg At Fernando's house where Sargento and I stayed in the guest house in the back. I spent five days in Cartagena and could have easily stayed for longer. |
Colombia, Part 2: Medellin
From Cartagena, I headed south to Medellin, about 700 kms (440 miles) away. I broke up the trip, spending a night in Caucasia, about halfway there. In Medellin, I met up with friends of Fernando Morales and Sargento who are also on ''Amigos por la Ruta'' - TouringColombia, Jaime Andres and Dario Fernando. I planned to buy tires in Medellin as the choices and prices would be best, being the motorcycle capital of Colombia. Jaime was a great host and took me on day trips during the weekend to sights around the city.
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_uo8Gz-L.jpg On Route 25, heading south to Medellin. Most of the highways in Colombia are tolled, but it's free for motorcycles. There's a special lane on the far right for two-wheelers. Wish all countries would follow this example. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_hmvsd-L.jpg My route through Colombia. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_tCMox-L.jpg The route was generally flat until past Caucasia, but the scenery was still pleasing. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_cPY7L-L.jpg The roads were well-signed all through Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_wawUM-L.jpg Good quality roads and shaded routes made for pleasant riding. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_Wrchd-L.jpg Dinner in Caucasia for COP 4,000 (Colombian Peso, COP 2000 = USD $1). Rice with chicken and potato in sauce with a slice of avocado and yuca and a radish/onion salad. I stayed in Hotel Genesis for COP 18,000 plus another 1,000 for secure parking. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_uLdeR-L.jpg Heading south to Valdivia... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...61_DPmgD-L.jpg ...from where the road starts climbing up and over a ridge. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_AQudg-L.jpg Hitching a ride uphill. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_HuGhV-L.jpg Lots of slow trucks on the ascent leading to unwise overtaking maneuvers. I know, I'm guilty too. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_Ea9Gs-L.jpg Eucalyptus trees on the top of the ridge before descending down to Medellin. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_vH3C9-L.jpg Nice views from the road. Elevation was about 2,100 meters (7,000 ft) and Medellin is down in a valley at 1,500 meters (5,000 ft). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_APqrY-L.jpg Meeting up with Jaime Andres (pronounced "hy-mee") at a gas station in the north of city. Jaime is a friend of Fernando in Cartagena through the national Colombian motorcycle forum of ''Amigos por la Ruta'' - TouringColombia. Jaime's riding a bright green Kawasaki Versys. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_Jv2PE-L.jpg Thursday nights all over Colombia is bike night and Jaime took me to the local hangout to meet all the other bikers in town. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_5ZpG5-L.jpg After meeting up with everyone, we took a ride around the city. First stop was this lookout with a fantastic view of the city at night. Medellin is in the narrow north-south Aburrá valley. It's the second largest city in Colombia, under the capital Bogota, with a population of 2.4 million. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_rjba3-L.jpg The Medellin TouringColombia crew at the lookout. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...26_uV2PN-L.jpg Heading back down the fun twisties. Having huge mountains nearby provides lots of fun riding. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_Ke8aS-L.jpg Next stop was Pueblito Paisa, a representation of small towns typical of the region. People from Medellin and surrounding areas are referred to as Paisas. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_tXduW-L.jpg Around 10 at night we pull into the traditional biker restaurant for some grub. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_ZCqLT-L.jpg They have a very active crew and get together for rides and other events quite frequently. Reminded me of bike nights at Strats in Chicago with Chicagoland Sportbikes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_oBT5Q-L.jpg A welcoming change from all the rice and chicken; ribs and wings with fries. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_arwmi-L.jpg The next day, Jaime took me around to shop for tires. Getting some fresh sugarcane juice. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_Q5E8K-L.jpg My bike was at Jaime's girlfriend, Ana Marie's Suzuki shop for a complimentary service and we were scooting about the city on Jaime's fetching blue/white Vespa. Also note the Bajaj shop there. Bajaj is an Indian motorcycle company and is the most successful motorcycle company in Colombia in the sub-250cc category. It made me proud to see so many bikes from the homeland doing so well abroad. The 180cc and 200cc Pulsar have their own following and are well respected. The Bajaj's are assembled in Colombia by Auteco, thus skipping the high import tariffs and making them affordable to the masses. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_hhs3n-L.jpg Had to get a picture with the cute Vespa. Note the spare wheel in the back. And the vest I'm wearing with the license plate of the two-wheeler is required in Colombia for safety reasons. One reason is for quick theft identity as the helmet also has to have the license plate number on it and the other safety reason is that the reflectivity of the vest provides additional visibility for truckers, who've run into numerous riders. However, this is not required for foreign riders and I wasn't given any trouble by the police when I was on my bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_DTPdk-L.jpg Picking up sanDRina from Ana Marie's Suzuki service shop. She said all passing travelers get a free servicing. Since nothing really needed servicing, I had them just lubricate my clutch cable and properly set the tire pressures. Lubricated clutch cable was much needed; so much clutching in city driving. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_vRHWZ-L.jpg Leaving the Suzuki shop. Suzuki is by far the most popular and well represented big name Japanese brand, probably partly due to the fact that they have a factory in Colombia near Pereira and assemble a lot of the bikes there, making them cheaper than the imported competition. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...26_2Meew-L.jpg Picking up some new tires for the road ahead. I got a set of Metzeler Tourances (non-radial) for $107, a really good deal. My Kenda's still have some live left in them, so I'll carry these and mount them when needed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_TttnK-L.jpg Strapping the tires to the bike. The bike shop alley had lots of tire and spare part shops, but I couldn't find a spare 525 Master Link for my chain. I have one spare, but was looking to see if another one was available. I picked up some heavy duty PVC rain pants for $10 since my rain liners require removing my pants to put them in; not convenient for afternoon rain showers. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_orhc5-L.jpg I stayed with Dario Fernando in his new motorcycle spa business. He recently moved from Pasto to seek better opportunities in the big city and having so many motorcycles here, a bike wash seems like a good idea (car and bike washes are all the rage in Colombia). He's riding a 180cc Bajaj Pulsar and has toured all over Colombia on it, that too with his girl friend on the back. He's getting ready here to give sanDRina a good wash, the first since I bought her in 2008, haha. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_6z3UG-L.jpg Colombian currency, the Peso. COP 2000 = USD $1. It's easy to become a millionaire here but hard for those still learning Spanish since having to say big numbers is harder than small numbers, but I learned fast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_LAVn2-L.jpg Hanging out in El Poblado, the central area with all the fine dining and bars and clubs. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_8XyXx-L.jpg Getting some fresh crepes from this eatery... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_K2GKM-L.jpg ...filled with beef and cream cheese. Very tasty and filling. Cost about COP 8,000. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_WWYjm-L.jpg Walking around and people watching. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_LivFL-L.jpg Having shots of Aguardiente (meaning burning water), the most popular liquor in Colombia. It's an anise-flavored liquor derived from sugarcane, similar to Absinthe in taste, but was only 58 proof alcohol and not that strong. Even after a couple shots, I wasn't feeling any effects. It came with some raw mango that went well with it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_yFQRa-L.jpg My hosts in Medellin. L-R: John David's girlfriend, John David (Dario's brother), Jaime Andres, Ana Marie, Dario Fernando and me. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_MT9LU-L.jpg Being presented with a Colombian friendship bracelet from Jaime. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_RQn65-L.jpg Taking off for a day ride with my newly washed sanDRina. She was sparkling thanks to the treatment at Clean Xtreme Moto Spa. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_k28iq-L.jpg Following Jaime and Ana Marie through the fun traffic of Medellin. I had no problems lane-splitting and haven't scraped a car yet. It helps that the panniers aren't wider than my handle bars, just. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_vswUR-L.jpg Meeting up with the crew at an Esso gas station, where the route for the day was discussed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_4PbcS-L.jpg Taking the Fernando Gómez Mart�*nez Tunnel (the longest in South America) at 7.4 kms (4.6 miles) through the mountains heading to Santa Fe de Antioquia. The ventilation wasn't that good in the tunnel and the air was heavy with exhaust. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...53_Lbj4U-L.jpg Lunch break. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_ZUK7F-L.jpg Having the typical meal of the region: Bandeja Paisa, a heart attack on a platter: rice with steak, chorizo (different from Mexican chorizo), pork blood sausage, chicharrón (crispy pork rind with some meat on it), a fried egg, a potato, fried plantain, a small salad of tomatoes and onions, bean soup and an arepa (typical Colombian corn bread, thicker than a tortilla) along with some fresh lemonade. What a meal to have while riding. And can you believe, this was the half portion! Cost about COP 16,000 ($8). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_454Ej-L.jpg Waiting it out for a bit before hitting the road. I can't believe I ate all that. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_xdTRV-L.jpg At the main attraction of the day, Puente de Occidente (Bridge of the West, so named as it lies in the west of Antioquia department). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_TtiAa-L.jpg The handsome Puente de Occidente, constructed in 1895 connecting the towns of Olaya and Sante Fe de Antioquia across the muddy Cauca River. It was designed by José Mar�*a Villa and when it was finished, it was the longest suspension bridge in South America with a span of 291 meters. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_VQrp4-L.jpg The riding crew from Medellin's TouringColombia chapter. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_i2Fpn-L.jpg Riding across the Puente de Occidente. The wooden boards clatter as you ride across and the sound echoes in the valley. Initially, it was only meant for pedestrian traffic but later one-way vehicular traffic was allowed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_JrKQf-L.jpg The towers of the Puente de Occidente covered in galvanized sheets to protect the underlying wood structure. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_QhTjN-L.jpg Riding 30 kms (18 miles) further along tight twisty roads to Olaya, a small remote town that was once a FARC stronghold. The church was riddled with bullet holes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_MwfXT-L.jpg Relaxing in the square in Olaya. Good riding crew and nice to be on a group ride. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_cRyb7-L.jpg Having a few drinks and snacks in the central plaza of Sante Fe de Antioquia, the capital of the region before Medellin got the honors. It was founded in 1541 to facilitate gold mining and the cathedral was completed in 1799. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_jX2ii-L.jpg That evening was the birthday party of Cesar, one of the riders in the chapter and he invited all his TouringColombia friends for a celebration. Sparklers in the cake. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_jMyGW-L.jpg After dinner and a comedy show, the dancing began. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_yi56J-L.jpg It got a bit wild. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_5osfm-L.jpg And since none of the other guys were dancing, all the girls were dancing with me :) The party went on till about 3 in the morning and we had to be up for another day ride. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_gJTSC-L.jpg Day ride on Sunday to Guatapé with Radman on the Suzuki Bandit 600. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_wyyKR-L.jpg Good roads heading to Guatapé. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_J3tFD-L.jpg A small part of the flooded landscape that is part of the reservoir of the Peñol-Guatapé hydroelectric project. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_9yREq-L.jpg El Peñón de Guatapé, a large monolithic granite rock, rising 200 m (656 ft) above the ground. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_Nq9G7-L.jpg Panorama of the Embalse de Guatapé, the reservoir that was formed in 1970s. Click here to see the high resolution version. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_VMa4H-L.jpg The four bikes of the day at El Peñón de Guatapé: Suzuki V-Strom (very popular all over Colombia, costing about $12,000 here), Kawasaki Versys, Suzuki DR650 and Suzuki Bandit 600. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_H5GgT-L.jpg Typical food on display: fried fish, chicharrón and sausage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_KPJMt-L.jpg There are 649 steps leading to the top that were built into crack of the otherwise smooth and unbroken granite rock. Taking a break half way up. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_nxK7y-L.jpg A dizzying look at the remaining steps leading to the top. It took about 20 minutes and was a bit dicey as it was raining and the steps were slippery and that too I was in my motocross boots. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...15_Wqtok-L.jpg But the 360 degree panoramic view from the top was worth it. Click here to see the high resolution version. Rain clouds were moving in but the view was surreal. Islands dotted the landscape as far as the eye could see. The flooding for the reservoir began about 40 years ago and it looks a bit ill-conceived. Jaime said swimming is not advised since lots of trees and plants are just below the water surface. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_EUVTr-L.jpg The climb back down the narrow, slippery steps. At least there were separate staircases for uphill and downhill traffic. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_6eYSX-L.jpg View from about half way down. The bikes are in the lower left. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_mbcEC-L.jpg Lunch of fried fish, Corvina with rice, fries, patacone (plantain), a salad and a gorda arepa. I didn't really like this kind of arepa as the center was uncooked and tasted of raw corn, but it was offered with most every meal. There are many different kinds of arepa and I liked most of them, especially the ones that were re-fried with an egg and some meat. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_fi5gZ-L.jpg Last night in Medellin at Dario's Moto Spa. I had a wonderful time in Medellin and truly felt welcomed with the warm spirit of the Paisas. |
Colombia, Part 3: Zona Cafetera
After a nice weekend in Medellin, I headed to the coffee producing region, called the Zona Cafetera. Colombia is world famous for its coffee and its citizens are very proud of their product. I'm not really a coffee drinker but it sure did taste good. My contact was Jorge Peto, whom Sargento stayed with but due to lack of space, I stayed with one of his friends, Barba and he took me around for a few days. I then met Andreas, El Paton, a global motorcycle traveler who's planning to do the Transamazônica in Brazil this August, same time as me, so we've decided to ride together there. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_akW7r-L.jpg Nice roads heading from Medellin to Armenia, about 260 kms (160 miles) away. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_B8xbM-L.jpg Yellow bridges and blue skies. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_C5ybY-L.jpg Well manicured roadside flora. I was stopped by police at a check point and they demand to see motorcycle insurance in Colombia. I was stopped earlier outside Cartagena without having insurance and it was a big racket, but they finally let me go saying I had to buy insurance in the next city, which I did for $15 and no problems after that. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_CDFmZ-L.jpg Crossing a big single tower suspension bridge near Pereira. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_VCbBu-L.jpg My host in Armenia, Barba taking me around to visit a plantation. On the way, we stopped at a friend's coffee plant nursery. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_r4VXf-L.jpg Plantains freshly cut from the groves. It was raining heavily and we had to wait until all the plantains were cleared from the road. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_Frde7-L.jpg Cutting the plantains from their stem, washing and preparing them for the market. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_gF6Hk-L.jpg A pineapple field. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_buZ6m-L.jpg Weigh bridge at the entrance to the plantation to measure how much produce is being taken out. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_CsShN-L.jpg Lunch at Barba's house of rice with steak, potato salad and patacones (twice-fried plantain, so tasty). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_qHRZW-L.jpg That afternoon we played a bit of pool at one of the numerous 'billiares' pool houses around. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_BmmbN-L.jpg The break. The aim of the game we played was to put in the balls chronologically, with a small bet placed on who would sink the black 8 ball, which I accomplished thrice. You can see the smaller numbers are placed on the outside with the larger numbers in the middle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_5FTyN-L.jpg The more popular game at this pool house was played on a table with no holes and only 3 balls. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_6ix8H-L.jpg Downtown Armenia. It's a modern city as the original town was destroyed by earthquakes. Elevation is about 1,500 m (5,000 ft) and it was pleasantly cool. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...79_iNFoR-L.jpg A modern-looking church in the central plaza at dusk. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_B6ogc-L.jpg An interesting thing about Colombia is these cell phones for hire by the minute. People wearing numbers indicate how many pesos a minute (100 pesos = $0.05) it costs to borrow their cell phone to make a call. Very handy and more available than phone booths. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_QtnVz-L.jpg The promenade in Armenia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...86_jYwab-L.jpg Another cool thing about Colombia is these guys walking around with thermoses filled with hot coffee. It was usually served in a small espresso-sized cup. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_oiLms-L.jpg That evening, Barba's friend here, Cordoba, who's a retired policeman, invited us to dinner after playing pool. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_Hj4XN-L.jpg Having some fine Ron Viejo de Caldas Colombian rum, aged 3 years. Was very smooth. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_yftgd-L.jpg Cordoba let me inspect his revolver, a Llama Scorpio. It's a Spanish double-action police revolver and is chambered for the 0.38 Special cartridge with a 2-inch long barrel and fixed sights. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_gHFDb-L.jpg Six chamber cylinder. I've never fired a gun and thought I should at least try it before leaving the US, but never got around to it. Make love. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_5WigD-L.jpg The 0.38 Special cartridge bullet. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_CwDvW-L.jpg Cordoba's house was in this tightly packed row of houses. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_n6TFP-L.jpg Having to reverse down the ramp into the underground parking at Barba's place. It's so tight that even compact cars have to make a 3-point turn to get down. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_kb2kz-L.jpg Taking a day trip the next day to nearby Salento, a small colonial town with Barba and some of his friends. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_URoTD-L.jpg Lunch at Cocora's Restaurante in Salento of Cayana de Trucha Dorado, which was a smoked fish similar to Salmon with a huge crispy tortilla. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_Yzne5-L.jpg From Salento, we headed down to Valle de Cocora. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_rCQLi-L.jpg It's a lush valley surrounded by mountain peaks. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_xn4AC-L.jpg It was raining slightly and the clouds were hanging low. Dairy cow enjoying the pasture all to herself. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_MxC5L-L.jpg The strange thing about Valle de Cocora is the super tall palma de cera (wax palm) tree that thrives in the cloud forest. They grow up to 60 meters (200 ft) tall. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...86_KLvcw-L.jpg Having some hot chocolate, which is different from hot chocolate in the States. It tastes watered down. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_58Mxm-L.jpg In Colombia, a slice of cheese (very tasty on its own) is usually served with hot chocolate and the crazy thing is you're supposed to put the cheese in the drink so that it becomes soft and stretchy. I don't know, but it didn't seem to go well together. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_Ks4AA-L.jpg But she was making it look so tasty. The women in Colombia are definitely very beautiful and a lot of emphasis is placed on beauty, encouraging a booming plastic surgery market, sometimes even for teenagers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_isyJQ-L.jpg A freshly made Arepa con Queso (corn pancake with cheese). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_wFd2R-L.jpg Getting a clear view of the peak as the clouds cleared. I was told there's a dirt road leading along the valley to even more spectacular sights. I need to come back and spend more time exploring Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_Hrv4g-L.jpg It was Thursday night again, so bike night in Armenia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_hDTw5-L.jpg One of the riders had this beautiful 2009 Suzuki GSX-R600 (I had a 2004 model) and he let me take it for a spin. I'm such a squid, riding in sandals but the thrill of hearing 15,000 rpm again threw ATGATT (all the gear, all the time) out the window. With high import taxes, this bike cost $17,000 here, compared to about $9,000 in the US. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_YruWx-L.jpg The bike night then moved to Jorge Peto's new Beef Parilla (BBQ). V-Stroms again were very popular with a few sport bikes, a KTM and a 2 BMW GS's. A rider on a Yamaha R6 owned a motorcycle shop in town and said I could use his shop and mechanics for the day if I needed anything done on the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_YV6Lv-L.jpg Two Suzukis, built for different purposes but both thrilling in their element. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_Txyqn-L.jpg Barba's cute little two month old Chinese Pug. A lot of character in a small compact body. The way it was hoping around all over made it look like a robotic toy. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_SHGsA-L.jpg Spending a day at Otto's motorcycle shop. I had a few small tasks to do on the bike. Here, Roberto is helping me figure out why my Solstice LED lights keep on blowing a fuse. He pointed out that the metal tab on the seat was making contact with the frame and the exposed part of the fuse from my Centech fuse panel and shorting out the lights. Easy fix. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_HBuUV-L.jpg Doing my first valve check of the trip from San Francisco and everything was in spec. The bike has been running great with no problems. I also inspected and cleaned the spark plugs, washed and re-oiled the air filter and installed new in-line fuel filters in anticipation of dirty gasoline further south. Barba and the others were impressed that I was doing my own maintenance, a must in my view on a trip like this, to make sure you're aware of all aspects of the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_oaP63-L.jpg Being escorted by the local police back to Barba's house after a late dinner. They were friends of Peto's and were glad to oblige. They liked the bright Solstice LED lights. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_wfgbB-L.jpg Meeting up with Andreas, El Paton who lives in nearby Calarca and has traveled the world on a Honda Africa Twin. He's been around South America, up to Alaska, spent more than a year in India, then did South-East Asia and Mongolia to the Stans and Iran. He's planning to ride the Transamazônica highway through the Amazon in Brazil this August and has bought a DR650 for the trip, saying the Africa Twin is too heavy. Right on. Since I'm planning to ride through there at the same time, we're hooked up and plan to meet in Porto Velho. He'll be coming down the river from Colombia to Manaus. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_MKU6H-L.jpg Having a tasty steak with a great view. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_oB2CV-L.jpg That night, we were invited to Andreas' friend's farm house near Armenia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_MDrCX-L.jpg Our host grilling some steaks under the watchful eye of his aging great dane, 11 years old and showing it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_soZvP-L.jpg Steaks and arepas. I was having a bit too much red meat for my liking by this point, but hey, who's complaining. Can't wait for Argentina. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_35rww-L.jpg They had three great danes and even though they weren't allowed in the house, they all gathered near the door and Dorris here is staring at the dining table. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_jMesZ-L.jpg We spent the night there after finishing off a few bottles of aguardiente, splashed with good conversation. Nice view. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_hrst5-L.jpg Outdoor hot tub and lovely farm house. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_MzSmW-L.jpg Dorris looking so cute. Awww. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_swBze-L.jpg Having Sunday lunch with Andreas and his parents at the newly opened Bakkah restaurant in Calarca. Having some fried fish with shrimps and calamari in a yellow sauce with mashed potatoes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_5c2Rt-L.jpg Spending the afternoon at Bakkah with Andreas going over maps of Brazil, Chile, Peru and Venezuela. He's an interesting guy and we had a lot to talk about. Plus, he was the first and only English speaker I came across in Colombia. My Spanish is pretty decent by now, as I'm spending time with only Spanish speakers and can hold a decent conversation, but need to learn more vocabulary. Looking forward to our trip on the Transamazônica. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_jxhaB-L.jpg Spending the night at Andreas' apartment in nearby Pereira. He got a real kick out of serving me hot chocolate in this toilet bowl of a cup, haha. The crazy things you can buy in America. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_nmsaE-L.jpg A hardy Toyota Land Cruiser truck at Andreas' farm in Calarca. I'm enjoying seeing proper Land Cruisers, Land Rovers, Nissan Patrols and Mitsubishi Pajeros being used as they were intended down here, compared to all the soft, luxury versions in the US plying the Interstate. I grew up with Land Cruisers in Zambia and nice to see the design hasn't changed much. I bet these models wont be suffering from Toyota's recent poor quality and faulty brake computers. Keep it simple. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_tdjbJ-L.jpg Andreas is into birds and has collected various parrots from around Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_wsoGi-L.jpg Colorful, noisy parrots in their huge tree cage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_zM7kR-L.jpg Entrance to Andreas' farm. Onwards to Cali. |
Colombia, Part 4: Cali, Popayan, Pasto
After a week in Armenia and Calarca, it was time to get moving. I dropped down to Cali in the flat plains for two days. From there, I headed up to colonial Popayán and then to high-altitude Pasto and its stunning scenery. I was welcomed and hosted by local bikers in each city.
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...90_kK8Sq-L.jpg The road descends slowly down to about 1,000 m (3,330 ft) and then becomes a flat 4-lane highway heading to Cali, the third largest city in Colombia. Sugar cane fields with the Cordillera Central rising at the eastern edge of the plain. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_ZTRz7-L.jpg Massive four trailer trucks used for hauling the bulky sugar cane from the fields to the sugar mills. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_zvCtn-L.jpg Stopping under a bridge with fellow bikers to suit up for the rain ahead in the city. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_v93tY-L.jpg My host, Henry Morales from TouringColombia.com buying dinner at an arepa fast food joint. There's even a drive through. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_QzUgE-L.jpg Arepa stuffed with beef and veggies, served with a corn meal drink called Claro, which is funny since it's the opposite of clear. It comes with some honey but wasn't enough flavoring for me, tasted quite bland. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_xXW4a-L.jpg All that sugar cane is processed into Panela, which is an unrefined solid piece of sugar made from evaporation of sugar cane juice. It's big business in Colombia and is mainly used in aguapanela, a drink made by dissolving some panela in water and is widely consumed here. Besides sugar, it also contains good amounts of protein, calcium, iron and ascorbic acid. Cyclists in Colombia (a very popular sport here) usually chew on a small piece of panela for a dose of energy and aguapanela is said to have as many rehydrating minerals as Gatorade. It's also popular in India, under the name of Jaggery. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_mnr9q-L.jpg Having lunch the next day at Henry's parent's house of Sancocho de Mondongo, a hearty soup made with beef and pig intestines and yuca and veggies. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_zLTYt-L.jpg View of downtown Cali looking north at the flat plains where all the sugar cane is grown. While Cali is generally flat, it is still quite hilly since it lies at the foothills of the Cordillera Occidental. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_2LFbX-L.jpg Getting the nice view of the city from the Cristo Rey site, a 31 m (100 ft) tall statue of Christ with open arms, similar to Cristo de Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_ibFUk-L.jpg Henry was a great host in Cali. He rides a V-Strom and is getting ready to do a 3 month tour of South America starting in October. He works as an accountant and also manages a super market. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...90_ZCyY9-L.jpg Getting a cholado, a Cali specialty drink of fruit with condensed milk on ice with a wafer; was quite refreshing. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_y4n7M-L.jpg On a tour of the city, we stopped by the Parque del Perro (dog park), which is a popular hang out for motorcyclists and other young adults with restaurants and bars around. It gets its name from this statue of a dog but it's not really a dog park as one might think of in the States where dogs are allowed to run free. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_5i4pN-L.jpg Iglesia de San Antonio in the oldest neighborhood in the city, located on a hill with a pleasing park leading up to the church. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_niAb8-L.jpg View of downtown Cali from the Iglesia de San Antonio. Some free spirits were hanging about, playing soft guitar music and creating a nice ambiance. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_9hw4L-L.jpg Along with the dog park, there's a Parque del Gato (cat park) located on the Cali River, a peaceful part of the city. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_NCoeD-L.jpg There were various sculptures of cats, each dressed up in a funky way. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_ar2Qz-L.jpg The working class neighborhood of Henry's parent's house, where I was having lunch before heading out for Popayán. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_PDuBJ-L.jpg Mosaiced steps leading up to the terrace. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_yB7Bn-L.jpg Henry's wonderful mother making huge patacones for me after seeing that I liked them the previous day. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_5Rxwj-L.jpg They asked a lot of questions about India the previous day and people generally want to find out what food is eaten in other cultures and I told them we eat a lot of rice with lentils (dahl) and so Henry's mother made lentil soup here. So gracious of her. Along with that was rice with steak and huge patacones served with aguapanela. She even wrapped some extra patacones for me to snack on while on the road. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_ME88x-L.jpg Heading up to Popayán, about 140 kms (85 miles) away. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_dxmaC-L.jpg Nice twisty roads climbing back up the mountains. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_GU8dY-L.jpg Meeting up with Fernando Alarcon in Popayán, a friend of Jorge Peto in Armenia, at his brother's motorcycle accessory shop. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_vThXG-L.jpg Getting a tour of the colonial architecture of Popayán. Iglesia de San Francisco, considered the best example of baroque style throughout Colombia along with a monument to local hero, Camilo Torres. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...15_ufECm-L.jpg The handsome cathedral in the central Parque Caldas. Popayán was founded in 1537 and was an important political and cultural center. All its fabulous architecture was destroyed in an earthquake in 1983 and since then all the major buildings have been restored. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_vQz3s-L.jpg The facade of the Catedral Bas�*lica Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_gJLPr-L.jpg The white-washed buildings reflecting in the wet pavement. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_N7T75-L.jpg The main symbol of Popayán, the clock tower, dubbed the 'nose of Popayán,' built in 1682. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_9DAHW-L.jpg What's special about Popayán is that all the buildings are painted white. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_yvmvY-L.jpg Iglesia de la Encarnacion and Iglesia La Ermita in the back with the purple lighting. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_8kNN5-L.jpg Fernando has a few pizzerias around town and also runs a few hotels. He, too, rides a V-Strom and went on a month long tour of the Mediterranean coast of Europe. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_GpYTC-L.jpg sanDRina in Fernando's garage that opens up into his living room, nicely setup. All the pictures on the wall are of his tour in Europe and other biker events around Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_Jm8xG-L.jpg After seeing all the electrical work on my bike, he showed me his crazy car stereo that he's hooked up to his V-Strom with 6-inch loud speakers inside the front fairings and tweeters mounted on the windshield. It's even setup with an infra-red remote control. He says it's nice to have music when they gather for bike events. Crazy, but very cool. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_r8uzF-L.jpg Fernando's lovely house. His wife painted that painting above the sofa. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_gZo4Q-L.jpg Leaving Fernando's house the next morning. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_9zDFp-L.jpg I've been mostly on the Pan American Highway through Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_iykEt-L.jpg Twisty roads heading up to Pasto, about 265 kms (165 miles) south. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_mgR2d-L.jpg Local bus with loads of potatoes and chickens strapped on the roof. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_fGawL-L.jpg Ad hoc motorcycle trailer. The passenger is just holding onto the cart and check out his helmet-wearing style. Helmets are required by law in Colombia, but how you wear it is another matter. Looks like some people don't like to wear helmets, so they just place them on their head, out of the way. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_Vz4m9-L.jpg A multi-branched tree at a small break by the road side. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_iNt3Z-L.jpg The scenery becoming more impressive as I neared Pasto. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_yd8mF-L.jpg Vivid skies with Pasto in the mountains ahead. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_EEhiV-L.jpg This image is level with the horizon, but note how the clouds follow the top of the ridge as it descends. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_z9p6a-L.jpg Pleasing scenery on the way to Pasto. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_SYksp-L.jpg Deep, rugged canyons on the climb up to Pasto. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_sAbeN-L.jpg The road was very impressive, hugging steep cliffs and cutting through rock passes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_GoWUc-L.jpg Steep canyons, nearing Pasto. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_fikTj-L.jpg The weather changed into cold rain as the altitude neared 3,000 m (10,000 ft). |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_Nb4Bi-L.jpg Crossing the last toll booth to Pasto and... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_ovVee-L.jpg Being welcomed by the local motorcycle crew of Pasto. Dario Fernando, whom I stayed with in Medellin, is from Pasto so he informed all his friends that I was passing through. L-R: Andres, me, Raul and Edwin. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_6s5fi-L.jpg The guys were very welcoming and wanted to show off their sights. Here, we're taking a quick picture of the volcano that looms over the city. They're all on small bikes, 200cc and less and were worried they would be too slow for me, but it was just right as I'm riding slow anyways (around 90 kmph, 56 mph). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_DLakU-L.jpg The main square in Pasto with the volcano looming in the back. It erupted earlier this year but didn't cause any damage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_VvFWP-L.jpg Andres, in the black vest, was riding the lead Baja Pulsar and since he works part time with the police in community-related events, he had flashing police lights along with the police horn on his bike. It made easy work of cutting through traffic. Here, he's helping me buy some local chain lube for $2 as I know it's going to be more expensive and harder to find further south. L-R: Ivan on a green Pulsar, Edwin on a dirt bike, Raul on a Suzuki GN125, Angela (Andres' girlfriend who spoke some English) and Andres. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_kNFtn-L.jpg Stopping by a church that overlooked this park. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_jDZBX-L.jpg Where there was a sculpture of St. Francis of Assis, the patron saint of animals and the environment. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_6M5uK-L.jpg Having dinner at Raul's place before dropping me off at... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_LBVn7-L.jpg Dario's family's home. Dario's two younger brothers, Andres and Alvaro with Luz Dary, Dario's girl friend and her two younger sisters. At night, it was cold here at 2,530 m (8,290 ft) and I got a bit of a headache with all the change in altitude. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_brMvP-L.jpg The next morning, on the last day of my Colombia visa, Andres offered to accompany me to the Ecuadorean border. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_xhSfV-L.jpg Having some breakfast along the way of a fluffy, fried bread with cheese and coffee. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_qBVbj-L.jpg Andres and his good looking Bajaj Pulsar. The Pulsar became well respected after a rider rode one from here through South America, Africa and into India to the main Bajaj factory. Quite a feat on a 200cc bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_7CqTD-L.jpg The road from Pasto to Ipiales at the border was fantastic and had great views. It was more of the steep, cliff-hugging variety of twisties. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_nvTXf-L.jpg Enjoying the ride to Ipiales. From Pasto the road descends to about 1,700 m (5,660 ft) before climbing back up to 2,950 m (9,820 ft) at Ipiales. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_Tjart-L.jpg The two bikes on the way to Las Lajas. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_sBddc-L.jpg The impressive Las Lajas Sanctuary set in a canyon of the Guaitara River, about 10 kms (6 miles) from Ipiales. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_Bt59j-L.jpg The current church was built from 1916 to 1946 on the exact site that a vision of the Virgin Mary was seen and since then many miracles are purported to have happened to devotees who come and worship at the church. These plaques stuck into the wall leading to the church are thank yous and testimonies of the successful miracles. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...86_dsoJi-L.jpg The faithful traveling from far and near to have their prayers answered. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_jnSt6-L.jpg Inside the beautiful chapel, which is built right up against the rock face with the shrine where the image of the Virgin Mary was seen in 1754. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_46YUF-L.jpg The engineering feat of building a church in a steep canyon is quite impressive. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_3EfqH-L.jpg With my guide for the day, Andres at Las Lajas Sanctuary. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_UZyTr-L.jpg Besides the church, the surrounding scenery is worth the visit. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_wqWYc-L.jpg Las Lajas Sanctuary with its foundations heading down to the canyon floor. Three weeks was too short for Columbia, but I enjoyed my time there thoroughly, especially meeting up with all the local bikers. The people are very warm and welcoming and are proud to show off their country. I will return someday to spend more time exploring this wonderful country. |
Ecuador, Part 1: Quito and Quilotoa
Ecuador is the smallest of the Andean nations, yet it packs a punch in the sights and sounds it offers. Its namesake comes from the fact that the important Inca and Spanish colonial city of Quito just about straddles the Equator. It's also the most densely populated South American country, and one gets a feel for that after seeing almost every mountainside stripped bare for agriculture. And what beautiful mountains they still are. Ecuador's skyline is defined by picturesque snow-capped volcanoes and others that are still active, as part of the Pacific Ring of Fire. Volcan Tungurahua went active again in 1999 and recently erupted, albeit not too violently, on 28 May 2010. I was excited to see my first active volcano.
I stayed primarily in the sierra (mountains) of Ecuador, all though I hear its coastline and jungles are worth a visit too. I followed a route south from Otavalo to capital Quito, down to industrial Ambato, then onto colonial Cuenca and the junction town of Loja. I stayed with motorcycle friends, either recommended from other travelers or contacted through HorizonsUnlimited. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_KS22w-L.jpg On the northern side of Ecuador, there's only one land border with Colombia near Ipiales. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_PU3ZH-L.jpg At the customs office, waiting 3 hours for the computer system to come back online so that I could be processed in. The yellow Bajaj Pulsar is Andres', a motorcycle friend from Pasto, who accompanied me to the border. He wanted to ride a little into Ecuador, but the customs delay went late into the day. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_k4tik-L.jpg My route through Ecuador. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_xUYXv-L.jpg When I enter a new country, I'm excited to see what my first impression will be. The setting sun was painting warm light across the mountainous landscape was making a great first impression. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_uyARc-L.jpg And what a beautiful welcome a rainbow is. It was in my sights for a good half hour and it always makes me smile to think about how simple a concept it is, sunlight being split by water molecules, and how gracefully nature shows us the complexity of light. The blue light towards the inside of a rainbow is on the shorter wavelength side of the light spectrum and is the reason the sky is mostly blue (blue light gets scattered first when the sun is overhead). The red light on the outside of the rainbow is of a longer wavelength and is the reason sunsets are red as the light from a setting sun has to travel through more atmosphere to reach us, leaving only red light left for our eyes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_9DUZy-L.jpg Landscape reminding me of south-west Wyoming. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_uVXvB-L.jpg Volcanoes coming into sight. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_uH2MQ-L.jpg The sun setting near the town of Otavalo, where I spent the night. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...15_q4DUw-L.jpg My hostel in Otavalo, Tamia Taki for $4. Otavalo is known for its Saturday street market and I got my motorcycle out the door before the entire sidewalk was covered in stalls. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_T3YRT-L.jpg Ecuador uses the US Dollar as its official currency. It's original currency, the Sucre, was losing too much value (104% inflation rate) during the 1990s after decades of deficit spending and the then president, Jamil Mahuad, made the decision to switch currencies to stabilize the economy and prevent the government from printing money to meet its budgetary needs. However, nowadays, there is talk of going away from the dollar as the local economy is stagnating. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_a9rxa-L.jpg The vendors were selling crafts and other daily items for the locals. A typically dressed woman walking in front of me. Even in the chill air (2,500 m (8,300 ft)), the woman are dressed in skirts and wear hats typical of their region. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_6FHy6-L.jpg I slowly gravitated toward the food market, lead by my growling stomach. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_yXq9k-L.jpg Mmm, a welcoming sight first thing in the morning. Note how they've stuffed peppers in its ears and looking fang-like from its mouth. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_yiWMs-L.jpg Fresh meat on one side and fresh veggies on the other. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_acFRZ-L.jpg Don't mind the roast pig staring you in the face as you devour some of its juicy flesh. At the eatery section of the market where different stalls are setup offering various fresh eats. If you're accustomed to a Western way of life, your meat generally doesn't bear much resemblance to its live state, but I think down here, the closer the resemblance, the fresher the food is considered, as in 'I want to see where my food comes from.' http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_jk6uZ-L.jpg Various sausages and innards. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_PshTV-L.jpg 'Get my fried skin off of me!' http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_x9rBZ-L.jpg Returning to find my hostal engulfed in stalls. The items aren't only for the tour groups as locals were busy buying, as well. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_e7gGs-L.jpg Heading south to Quito on the Panamericana. The last bit of the Northern Hemisphere for the rest of the year. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_TPxPq-L.jpg At the Equator. Entering the Southern Hemisphere. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_wkBYx-L.jpg I've been as far north as 70 degrees (Prudhoe Bay, Alaska) and let's see how far south I can go. For some reason, I didn't bother taking my GPS off the bike to find exactly where 0'0'0 was. This is close enough. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_QdCJN-L.jpg Ah, here it is. The exact marking of latitude 0'0'0, the Equator. Straddling both hemispheres. As you're coming south from Otavalo, turn left at Cayambe and you'll come across this monument. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_L4Mfo-L.jpg Having lunch with my hosts in Quito, Carlos and Christina Riaño. Carlos is a rider and graciously hosted me on recommendation from Sargento, the Mexican rider I met in Cartagena, who stayed with Carlos on his journey. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_vV7uR-L.jpg Having a Chinese seafood stir-fry. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_coxLn-L.jpg Walking the streets of Quito after lunch we came across this little cute pup. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_WM9qc-L.jpg Quito is situated in a 40 km (25 mi) long valley between snow-capped volcanoes, some of which are active. That's Volcan Cayambe shining in the setting sun. Population is about 1.5 million at an altitude of 2,800 m (9,200 ft). I had a headache from all the varying altitude in getting to the city. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_jNSzV-L.jpg A tile sculpture of a jaguar in a store window. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_bCzcf-L.jpg Carlos is a musician, playing the keyboards in the back at club Naruba, with his salsa, cumbia and other forms of Spanish music band. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_Sr7o5-L.jpg I discovered a crack in the corner welds of my Happy Trail panniers and figured best to get it re-welded before the crack spread down the sides. Maybe it happened when I had my small fall in Costa Rica, but I would've noticed it before then or maybe I'm stressing them too much, don't know. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_FRkMY-L.jpg At the aluminum welder's shop. Sign reads 'god bless my work.' http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_FZtNx-L.jpg Having a little salty snack of fried corn, plantain chips and varied beans. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_9QkPv-L.jpg I also found this complete crack of my steel pannier frame. Now this probably happened when I fell in Costa Rica and am surprised I didn't notice it until now. All my bolts are in place and none are broken. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_HhzZK-L.jpg Getting it welded on the bike since it was too much effort to remove the pannier frame. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_L5EoY-L.jpg Victor Manuel doing a nice job on all the welds. 8 aluminum welds (4 corners of both boxes, beefed up the current welds before they started cracking) and this steel weld for $10. He's located at Av. Las Toronjas and Av. El Inca. Hard to find good aluminum welders. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_WeRQz-L.jpg The pannier frame welded up and ready for another fall. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_Rhcfu-L.jpg The corners of the panniers welded up. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...53_HfWqy-L.jpg At the main monument for the Equator, the Mitad del Mundo, about 35 kms (22 mi) north of Quito. The position of the Equator isn't exact here as when the site was created, exact instruments weren't available, but it is grander and has more of a theme park atmosphere, costing $2, compared to the free entry for the exact site at Cayambe. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...15_SPBYk-L.jpg Having one of many excellent meals at Carlos and Christina's house. That's Christina's brother, Riccardo. I'm wearing my swimming trunks as I had all my regular clothes washed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_8fg9o-L.jpg A typical meal of a bean soup with rice, fried plantains, avocado and arepas. Carlos and Christina are actually Colombians from Bogotá and moved to Quito about 10 years ago. Can't take the arepas away from Colombians. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_zkSYj-L.jpg Meeting up with Aaron and Carol, on the red KLR, who contacted me through ADVrider and along with Carlos (gray Motor1, Chinese 150 cc runabout), taking a tour of Quito by night. Carlos also has a Honda Shadow 800 cc for touring. This is the Palacio del Gobierno (government house). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_o8p2z-L.jpg Lots of beautiful grandiose churches in Quito, which has the largest and best-preserved historic center in Latin America. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_6ttjk-L.jpg The main cathedral in Quito, where there's a painting of the last supper with cuy (guinea pig) as the main course. Quito was the first city to be inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1978. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_ZqeHz-L.jpg The Monasterio de San Francisco, the oldest church and grandest colonial building in Quito, finished in 1604. Having features such as sunlight shining on the altar during the solstices shows how indigenous artisans brought their Inca influence to Christian architecture. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_wRqPu-L.jpg Having dinner at Mariscal, the center of developed restaurants and the nightlife. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_N7QNe-L.jpg It's also a popular biker hangout. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_grdwC-L.jpg Having a nice salad for a change. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_uYnnn-L.jpg Dinner with Aaron, some Harley riders, Carol and Carlos. Aaron is from Minneapolis and he met Carol there who's from Quito. They got married and rode down here, he on the KLR and she on a BMW F650. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_FXCV6-L.jpg Their uber-expensive Harley-Davidsons. There's about a 70-100% import tax in Ecuador, so these bikes cost around $60-$70,000! http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_AdhB6-L.jpg Saying good-bye to Carlos and Christina after a good 5 days in Quito. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_69oPg-L.jpg Interesting geology exposed by a road pass. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_tXzy2-L.jpg Climbing up to Quilotoa Lake from Latacunga and riding through the páramo, a neotropical ecosystem that exists above the tree line and below the snow line in the Andes. Click here to see the high resolution version. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_DixaT-L.jpg First time crossing 4,000 m (13,100 ft) on the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_FABpR-L.jpg First sighting of a llama in the wild. They're indigenous to the Andes and have been mostly domesticated for their fur and occasionally for their meat. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_GwZfr-L.jpg From Latacunga, the ride to Laguna Quilotoa climbs high and provides good views. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...06_eFUfE-L.jpg A small patch of trees remaining. Too bad most of the mountain sides have been deforested. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_Rbzdr-L.jpg Wonderful twisting roads following the natural contours of the land. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_evoDK-L.jpg The air is very clear up here and it makes for some nice photos. sanDRina with the cultivated mountainsides. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_DJYCo-L.jpg Arriving at Laguna Quilotoa, costing $2 to enter. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_aFHDx-L.jpg Panorama of Laguna Quilotoa, a crater lake which formed after a violent eruption in 1280 of Volcan Quilotoa. It sits at a height of 3,900 m (12,800 ft), is about 3 kms (1.8 mi) around and 250 m (820 ft) deep. The clouds and conditions were constantly changing. Click here to see the high resolution version. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_iP5Fa-L.jpg To reach the lake, you have to hike through this narrow, steep canyon. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_NZd43-L.jpg The road to Quilotoa from Zumbahua is a bit sandy but nothing a heavy bike couldn't handle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_zFWHK-L.jpg Cactus on the road-side. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_jFErr-L.jpg Heading back to Zumbahua across this high-altitude valley, situated at around 3,700 m (12,100 ft). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_953i7-L.jpg There weren't that many options for lunch on the road back in the small village of Zumbahua besides a few shacks serving up fatty pork, corn and eggs. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_MMaaF-L.jpg For a dollar, I got a small bag with 2 pieces of pork fat attached to a few strands of meat and some oily plantains. I should've just gone for 2 or 3 boiled eggs instead. But I guess up here in the cold, pork fat is what's needed to sustain the calories. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_8XsUN-L.jpg On the way back to Latacunga, the clouds cleared and I got a nice view of snow-capped Volcan Cotapaxi at an elevation of 5897 m (19,342 ft). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_3fbRF-L.jpg Sheep on the road back down to the Panamericana, grazing on the green hillsides. |
Ecuador, Part 2: Volcanoes
I spent a few days in Ambato, staying with motorcycle friends from HorizonsUnlimited and visited Banos, the active Tungurahua Volcano and the glacier-covered Chimborazo Volcano.
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_phcwe-L.jpg Commercial, non-touristy Ambato, near Banos, staying with Xavier Leon from HorizonsUnlimited. In trying to stay with local people as much as I can, I'm not only saving on lodging costs but am also getting insights into local culture and how people are living today. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_o7Zko-L.jpg Ambato was leveled by an earthquake and thus no colonial buildings exist, but they've reconstructed with that architecture in mind. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_mRaXF-L.jpg Having a steak dinner at La Hueka with Xavier (stripped shirt), his riding friend, Carlos (L) and Carlos' daughter, Karen and her boyfriend. Xavier and another riding friend, Enrique rode KLRs up to Alaska two years ago. He currently manages the family furniture factory. Carlos recently got into motorcycling and wants to tour South America. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_9iRKq-L.jpg A tasty dinner of grilled chicken with herbs, a few ribs and a salad. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_iiJ2i-L.jpg Carlos and Karen on his brand new BMW R1200GS with less than 1,000 km on the clock on a day ride to Banos. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_58bGo-L.jpg But first, upon hearing that I'm a mechanical engineer, Carlos wanted to show me his machine shop in the adjacent town of Pelileo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_V7evr-L.jpg He's a tool and mold maker, making things like plastic bottles for Gatorade, shampoo, etc along with other plastic injection pieces such as parts for car interiors. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_7Ut2h-L.jpg All the various drill bits used in the CNC milling machines. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_im2vv-L.jpg With Carlos and a few of his machinists. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_uGpcn-L.jpg Nice to see him employing women machine operators, as well. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_eAGfw-L.jpg A surface grinder that's... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_zpBLA-L.jpg ...made in the USSR and still running strong. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_T33kv-L.jpg Karen in her go-kart that she races in Quito. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_v5vcf-L.jpg Being treated to a local lunch of... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_RPpPg-L.jpg ...broiled pork with corn, potatoes and friend plantains. Tasty, tender meat on big chunks of bone, where you have to work with your teeth to get all the meat. Just the way I like it. Not much of a boneless meat kind-of-person. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_RUGqi-L.jpg Heading down to Banos. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_T5m3v-L.jpg Those aren't just regular gray clouds. It's a puff from smoking Volcan Tungurahua (meaning throat of fire in the local language of Quichua). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_hsk7Z-L.jpg Impressive to see an active volcano for the first time. There was no immediate danger as the volcano is simply venting pressure. A few weeks ago at the end of May, it was spewing bits of hot lava and was a sight to see at night. There was a glacier on the peak that has melted away now since it went active again. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_oVpeT-L.jpg However, it is a danger for the farmers living and grazing their herds on the flanks of the volcano and the army evacuated residents from the area. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_HkJ5y-L.jpg A mud slide from the recent eruption and a strange sculpture of a giant bird?? http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_cTj5b-L.jpg In the hot springs town of Banos, a tourist destination for locals and foreigners. However, the recent eruption has suppressed the local economy as scared tourists are staying away, but the local vendors say everything is tranquilo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_PgKmZ-L.jpg Situated under Volcan Tungurahua (source of the hot springs) and graced by waterfalls and green peaks, it's a pleasing location. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_fWfCT-L.jpg Having some sugarcane juice and guayaba fruit paste. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_BSmeW-L.jpg Riding up the backside of Banos with el volcan looming in the distance. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_9xsiu-L.jpg Volcan Tungurahua huffing and puffing over Banos. To get a sense of scale, note the house in the lower right of the picture. I'm always intrigued by people's motivation to continue living under active volcanoes, thinking the big one won't come in their lifetime. I guess it's a two-fold problem of population stress (where else can they move to in this already crowded planet?) and the stress of migrating a family until being forced to is too much to bear. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_n9drW-L.jpg Riding back to Banos in this lush valley with waterfalls in the distance. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_RTCWC-L.jpg The next morning, being led out of town by another of Xavier's friends, Julio who toured all over South America on his KTM 525 and who now wants to make a big loop of North America. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_Fgbok-L.jpg Ecuadorian police using new Kawasaki KLR 650's. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_dTaj4-L.jpg Riding the beautiful via Flores route from Ambato towards Guaranda. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_jjNKL-L.jpg The route slowly climbed from 2,800 m (9,200 ft) in Ambato up past 4,000 m (13,100 ft). The air was moist with fog. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_WZTAF-L.jpg The lush, high altitude valleys made for a pleasing ride. Click here to see the high resolution version. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...90_KzQTw-L.jpg The road followed the river and curved tightly around the rocky cliffs. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_QNt6D-L.jpg sanDRina blending in with her natural environment. She likes green spaces. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_YmhBY-L.jpg Something about a road following a river in a canyon makes for excellent motorcycling (like Lolo Pass Road in Idaho and many more). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_bzodu-L.jpg A wooden bridge across the rushing river. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_HVJRY-L.jpg Climbing out of the canyon the road twisted ever higher, until suddenly, around a corner, I was greeted by this view of... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_cytnw-L.jpg Volcan Chimborazo surrounded by clouds and dry, windswept páramo. I took a break admiring the view and trying to get a glimpse of the glaciated peak of this extinct volcano. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_PniTY-L.jpg I followed the road around the base of the volcano towards Riobamba and was engulfed in thick clouds for a few kilometers. The road elevation peaked at 4,300 m (14,100 ft). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_c3KxY-L.jpg A small herd of vicuña, a wild relative of the llama. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_YipzF-L.jpg Vicuña's are renown for their extremely fine wool, which was prized by the Inca elite and today's elite as well. They produce only about a pound of wool each year and aren't easily domesticated, making it difficult to gather enough wool to produce garments. A yard of vicuña fibre can cost up to $3,000 resulting in the $20,000 cost to have a suit made. I was bundled up in all my cold weather gear, but sure could use some of their wool in my sleeping bag. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_n9vB8-L.jpg Another view of Chimborazo, still covered in clouds. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_wX7Z4-L.jpg Finally the clouds parted to reveal the majestic Volcan Chimborazo, the highest mountain in Ecuador at 6,268 m (20,565 ft). Its peak is also the furthest point on the Earth's surface from its center due to the bulge at the Equator from the planet's spin (think of a spinning ballerina). The radius of the Earth at sea level at Chimborazo is 6,378 km (3,964 mi), which is 4,748 m (15,573 ft) more than at Everest (29 degrees north, elevation of 8,848 m (29,029 ft)). This puts Chimbarazo's peak 2,168 m (7,113 ft) further into space than Mt. Everest's. On a clear day, the peak can be seen about 140 kms (88 mi) away on the coast in Guayaquil. It last erupted around 500 AD. |
Ecuador, Part 3: Cuenca
Heading away from the snow-capped mountains and volcanoes, I spent a few days in colonial Cuenca and visited the Cajas National Park before heading for the Peruvian border.
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_DhnZP-L.jpg As I was taking a break and warming up back at the Panamericana, Riccardo here pulls up on a 2009 Suzuki DR 650, touring around South America from Santiago, Chile. He had been riding up for 2 months and was now on his way back. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_7b2Ra-L.jpg He was also headed to Cuenca for the night, so we rode together. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_7uMLu-L.jpg The Panamericana heading south, leaving behind the lofty snow-capped volcanoes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_hHfSy-L.jpg Riccardo sharing his sandwich with me for a spot of lunch near Alausi. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_TQfQN-L.jpg The girls getting to know each other. His bike was mostly stock besides an engine guard, windshield and the full Givi pannier set. He was carrying two spare 1 gallon petrol canisters to supplant the stock 3.4 gallon gas tank. He expressed shock at my 9 gallon capacity. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...90_G3eYX-L.jpg More pleasing riding on Ecuador's excellent roads. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_VPnmv-L.jpg Taking a coffee break and I just had to get a bite out of this juicy pig hanging by the roadside. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_WEcxx-L.jpg They blaze the exterior of the pig with a blow torch and serve up the meat during the day. You can ask for a specific cut. They said they go through about 2 or 3 pigs a day, with each one costing about a $100 to procure. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_FPwQb-L.jpg A panoramic view across a valley with low hanging clouds. Click here to see the high resolution version. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_PmhQX-L.jpg That gadget on my helmet is my GoPro video camera. I enjoyed riding with Riccardo and he, likewise. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_kVqXL-L.jpg Meeting up with Juan and Pedro about 50 kms (31 mi) north of Cuenca. I contacted Pedro through HorizonsUnlimited and they invited Riccardo to stay, as well. They were riding KLRs and were part of the KLR club of Cuenca. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_9pja2-L.jpg Being escorted into Cuenca as the road widened to a 6-lane highway. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_TLhgx-L.jpg Getting an idea of the city from the mirador (lookout). Cuenca is Ecuador's third-largest city sitting at about 2,500 m (8,200 ft) with a population of around half a million. It's known for its colonial architecture and charming cobblestone streets. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_L97YD-L.jpg Pedro firing up the grill with the aid of a hair-dryer. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_MnnMA-L.jpg Juan grilled up a big, fat, juicy steak with plantains and arepas. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_KujhG-L.jpg Besides the occasion of welcoming two riders, it was also Juan's birthday, being celebrated with friends and neighbors. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_yWMHR-L.jpg The next morning, I had some maintenance to do. This is in my top box and it's the wires from the solar panel running to the switch box up front. I was constantly rubbing this electrical junction taking in and out a liner bag with charging electronics and it was only a matter of time before it got pulled apart. I reconnected it and rearranged the items in the top box so that my softer sleeping bag was against this connection. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_UdP6H-L.jpg We then went on a day trip to nearby Gualaceo, about 20 kms (13 mi) east of Cuenca, known for their markets. A well-roasted cuy (pronounced cu-ee) (guinea pig), a delicacy in the Andes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_Vuz6R-L.jpg Skinned, speared and ready to roast. It might be a bit discomforting if you were brought up in the West, as guinea pigs are raised as pets, but in the Andes, they've been domesticated for about 5,000 years and the local people have been raising them for their meat ever since. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_KpeoL-L.jpg It's a tender meat tasting similar to rabbit and the dark meat of chicken. There is very little meat, but what there is, is quite good. It's high in protein and low in fat and cholesterol. The brains are presented to the guest of honor and it tasted like most other brains that I've eaten (chicken and goat), soft and mushy and quite fatty. The skin was quite good, as well. If you intend to try it, it's cheaper in Peru. This roasted cuy cost $10 here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_GCWXH-L.jpg Mmm, I'm loving this guinea pig. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_ndL2y-L.jpg Juan and his lovely little daughter in the mercado (market). Juan is a mining engineer, working for a Canadian company. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_Fhovt-L.jpg Taking a walk through the Sunday market in Gualaceo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_8URMB-L.jpg Juan's son, Riccardo , Juan's wife, Angelica and her sister, Lorgia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_yZmF6-L.jpg The central plaza was quite charming with well manicured trees. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_52ukH-L.jpg A super tall pine behind a bushy tree. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_XWGgK-L.jpg The whole crew at the main plaza in Gualaceo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_RSKt9-L.jpg We finished our visit with a walk by the river, which looked quite swollen, flowing full. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_SgmLo-L.jpg The new cathedral of Cuenca in the main plaza at night. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_F5tTX-L.jpg It's quite grand on the inside with cavernous domes. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_MLwWT-L.jpg Luck be it that we were there during the annual confectionary festival, held next to the cathedral. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_yWEcc-L.jpg Everything looked so good. I sampled a variety of sweets and chocolates. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_uAj2M-L.jpg A typical desert of a crunchy tortilla (crepe) with various spreads, such as Nutella and toppings of nuts, coconut, etc. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_TC22f-L.jpg The well-lit Santuario Mariano. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_oZ46w-L.jpg Breakfast at Juan's house. Riccardo took off a day before me as he had to pickup some items in a different town before continuing south. We agreed to meet up again along the way or when I make it to Santiago. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_4H3fd-L.jpg Angelica prepared a variety of tasty eats during our stay. Upper left: fried yuca, UR: arepas, LL: steamed corn (choclo). Lots of corn products, but they tasted different and very agreeable to my taste buds. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_TwHoa-L.jpg Taking in the weekday flower market in front of the Santuario Mariano. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_sQtYE-L.jpg A nice variety of roses and other flowers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_QR8ff-L.jpg Juan having a flower tea. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_2QHzG-L.jpg Intricately carved door of the original cathedral (built in 1557). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_Fy3HV-L.jpg The new cathedral (1885) with its blue domes in front of Parque Calderon. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...06_Ao2Eb-L.jpg Interesting stone work and nice colors. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_BimL5-L.jpg It was pleasing to walk around historic Cuenca, lots of nice stone work. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_jVXnq-L.jpg A tiled street sign. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_n5B67-L.jpg Mmm, meringue in a cone (whipped egg whites, sweetened). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_sgNcv-L.jpg And look what's hiding under the cover. It's a Classic Mini Cooper in the same color scheme as the one I had in Chicago. Juan said one of his friends is part of the Mini car club in Cuenca but he was out of town. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_78qeQ-L.jpg Cuenca is defined by the four rivers that flow through the city. There's green space around each river for jogging and cycling and it's easy to see why many ex-pats choose to settle down here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_Qh7ne-L.jpg Heading out with Juan for a day trip to Parque Nacional Cajas on the way to Guayaquil. It's defined by its misty mountain tops and over 230 lakes. Elevation is around 3,350 m (11,000 ft). |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_o5kfn-L.jpg Clean rivers rushing under misty peaks. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_DE8sb-L.jpg A closer look at the misty peak. Can you see the image of the Virgin Mary in the rocks? http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_NVapH-L.jpg Panorama of Parque Nacional Cajas. Click here to see the high resolution version. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_8uHws-L.jpg The lust setting looked quite inviting to go on some hikes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_FCTWk-L.jpg White, fuzzy plants with bright yellow flowers. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_Lhy4s-L.jpg A local tree with bark that flakes off like paper. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_SaxBf-L.jpg Rushing river. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_hxVuu-L.jpg Juan with his Mazda truck that we went around in. These are very popular down here. He said the Chevrolet Luv is the cheapest of the 4-door pickups, then the Mazda, topped by the expensive and well-reputed Toyota Hilux. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_d3uAj-L.jpg Leaving Juan's house after a wonderful few days in Cuenca. Good luck on planning your Alaska trip. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_nRHLD-L.jpg Ecuador has lots of new concrete roads. On the one hand it's good cause they'll last longer, but they are more expensive, and I don't like them as much since they're not as smooth as asphalt roads and produce more road noise. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_8LkHn-L.jpg I was taking a break by the side of the road when Holger and Anja pulled up on their BMW F650GS's. They've been riding around the world since 2007 from Germany and we rode together to Loja for the night. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_JDgu6-L.jpg Lunch stop in Saraguro. They come from a small town near Cologne and Holger's a school teacher and Anja's a modern dance instructor. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_tpahG-L.jpg Their trip website is de | 2 auf Reisen, which means 2 who are traveling. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_g6ivb-L.jpg I spent the night in Loja with Roberto from the local HorizonsUnlimited community. He rode his BMW R1150GS down from Washington, DC and took the Stahlratte just like me across the Darien. We're picking up Holger and Anja from their hostel. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_UrrTL-L.jpg Roberto leading us out of town towards the Peruvian border. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_LrSgm-L.jpg The 3 BMWs showing love to the 'Zook. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_wXsHb-L.jpg Anja on her BMW F650GS. They were setup identically to reduce the number of spares to carry. They did have a few rear shock failures and were carrying a spare shock. They had the expanded Touratech gas tanks giving them a total capacity near 38 liters (10 gallons). We all filled up with Ecuador's cheap gas ($1.48/gal) before crossing into Peru. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_qQFWf-L.jpg The landscape of southern Ecuador getting hot as the elevation dropped and the lushness withered away to dry lands, an indication of the scenery ahead in northern Peru. Ecuador was a delight to ride through. I enjoyed all the high mountain roads, dotted with volcanoes and misty mountains. There's more to explore here and with all the nice friends I've met, another visit in the future is likely. |
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