Zacatecas
 

The 350 km from Satillo to Zacatecas in straight as an arrow but smooth as silk. Thank goodness for GPS or finding our hotel in the warren of narrow cobblestone streets would have been a nightmare. We are 2 blocks from the Cathedral in the cultural center. We spent a lot of time just walking around since there was a new stunning sight around almost every corner.

Zacatecas
 

We came across a processional of dancers in traditional dress. The Torta Chirizo at Betty’s Lonchueria were delicious. The Museo Rafael Coronel is a must see. It is located in a partially restored ruin and houses an incredible collection of traditional masks. We also visited several of the other major churches including the Tempo de Santa Domingo and Tempo Jesus.

Zacatecas
 

more pics

Zacatecas
 

There is a Festival de Teatro with venues all over town and we took in a Cirque like show. We walked up the hill from the hotel to take the cable car across the valley to the summit. The gorditas at Donna Julia and as advertised….delicious

San Luis de Potosi
 

It was 190 km to SL de Potosi again on a good road without any checkpoints. The temperature was great for riding at 24 and partly cloudy. We again have a hotel on the edge of the Zona Historica. There are dozens of Churches here including the Iglasia del Carmen and the Cathedral de San Luis de Potosi and most have beautiful squares out front. The police here ride bikes, motor bikes, and Segways thru the narrow streets.

European feel
 

We strolled along the ancient pedestrian avenue to visit the Tempo of the Virgin of Guadalupe. We also visited the San Franciscan Convent and the Plaza Aranzazu. We had amazing tacos, gringas, and beers for 9$. You feel like you are in a European city here with the beautiful architecture, music, food, and people out having a good time.

Jalpan de Serra
 

Starting out from SLP we had our first rain in weeks, but it was very short lived. (read rain suits on then off). Daniel found us a nice secondary road to get us from the city and out into the country towards Rio Verde. Then we had 100 km of steep windy mountain roads to Jalpan de Serra. The locals are driving 80 km in a 40 and passing on the corners. You know there is good motorcycling here when you arrive at your hotel and there are a bunch of bikes parked out front. This is a quaint mountain town situated around one of the five 350 year old Franciscan Monasteries located in this area

Jalpan de Serra
 

We travelled east to the Valee de Tilaca with the amazing view of the valley from the top of the pass. Here we visited the San Francisco monastery. On our return to Jalpan we stopped at our third mission Santa Maria del Agua de Landa. The main square was full of activity at night with vendors and families having a good time.

San Miguel de Allende
 

Now for adventure…..we planned a route not on the map or the GPS. It was epic however. We had almost 200 km of twisty curved road. The first part was well travelled and we saw many guys on crotch rockets. It was like the dragon but ten times longer and there were the donkeys on the road for an added thrill. The second half was on a road not on the map and on which we did not even see another car during 100 km of curves. We were a tiny bit concerned at one point that the amount of rock fall on the right side of the road and absence of traffic might mean an impassible washout was up ahead, but no such adventure was found.

San Miguel de Allende
 

Arriving in San Miguel de Allende we met the steepest cobble stone street ever, thank goodness for the knobby tires. The B&B is off on a quiet side street with a lovely courtyard. It is just a 5 min walk to the central square and all the action. There is so much to explore here. There a many beautiful churches and squares. We wondered the side streets to admire the beautiful doors and windows. There are lush courtyards behind many of the doorways

Toluca
 

We were sad to leave San Miquel de Allende, but south we went. After paying our first ever cuota or toll on the Mexico 55 we found that the road surface is not only not better it is much worse than the libre (free) roads. The trip to Mexico City area is however MUCH too long if you do not use the toll roads. The driving on these roads can be a little nerve racking however since the locals drive at about twice the limit.

This place is famous for one of our favorite foods Chorizo and we had the most fantastic tacos here near the Opera house. The other spicy thing we see a lot of is the weather girls.

Luckily Garry Dymond had suggested that we visit the Cosmovitral, which is a stained glass mural and botanical garden. So we found a hotel near by which turned out to be a great location for the city. We were very near the Cathedral and the Mercado.

Toluca
 

The gardens are very peaceful and the walls and ceiling are made of amazing stained glass. The theme depicted by the windows centers on the struggle between life and death, good and evil, day and night and creation and destruction, all shown in continuum.

In Mexico they are getting ready for the Day of the Dead, which is a celebration focusing on the remembering of friends and family members who have died. It takes place on November 1, in connection with the Catholic holidays of All Saints' Day and All Souls' Day (November 2). Traditions include building private altars honoring the deceased using sugar skulls, marigolds, and the favorite foods and beverages of the departed and visiting graves with these as gifts

Waiting for Stator
 

Well we are hanging out in Mexico City while we wait for the new stator for the 800 to arrive. Daniel had gone 30 km out to Yamaha to buy oil, but luckily the bike did not die until he was 4 blocks from our place. Phew! Fortunately too we have friends flying in from seattle tomorrow who are bring us the new parts. We are having the old stator rewound here also so we will have a spare for the 650 (hope not). Should then be off to Oaxaca for day of the dead.

Hello Im kevin from montevideo uruguay me and my father we travelled all across southamerica many times also we have a workshop I if want to visit there is no problem also we are offering bike storage in uruguay customs give you one year to leave the bike anything contact at lemes54@hotmail.com ride safely

Mexico City….Don’t be so scared you miss out!
 

Garry Dymond kindly met us at Lerma BMW to guide us back to his home in Chamontoya, Álvaro Obregón, Ciudad de México. Garry and Ivonne settled us in and were amazing hosts! We may never want to leave “Garry Hostel”.

We ventured out (yes in MC and on our own) to meet up with some fellow BMW riders we had happened to meet at a Pemex on the way from Jalpan to San Miquel de Allende. Diana and Frederick invited us to the Moto Expo. They also introduced us to many of their friends including Juan. We managed to find our way “home” in the dark without needing to make one of the famous “we found 2 of your lost Gringo” calls to Ivonne. Then we had our first of several late night visits to SUPER TACO. Plus to our delight Grandma had made us a delicious flan for dessert!