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The Adventure Begins... South Bound From Santiago
In Santiago I picked up some parts for Emi... extra spark plugs, chain and some lube. I still was unable to find new sprockets. I checked three Suzuki dealers, but none of them had the parts in stock. I'm thinking that I may order them online and have them delivered somewhere along my route.
I was hoping to make it to Tierra Del Fuego before the winter sets in. It is usually okay in March, but the weather starts to change in April, so I hear. Cold and rain... I can tolerate it... snow and ice... I think not. There had been some road blockades and gas shortages in the southern part of Chile due to some protests. I wasn't sure if I would be able to travel through the Lake District where the problems were taking place... but I sort of had a plan. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0GQA6JcPv-...%2B-%2B471.jpg Unfortunately, I got a late start. I headed south through part of the Chilean wine country. As I rode along the highway through the vinyards I could smell the grapes. Intoxicating. I really wanted to stop and visit some of the vineyards, but I needed to make some distance. I'll have to come back when I have more time. I rode until the sun began to set. Then I pulled into a town called Linares. Nothing of great interest around... so I asked a police officer where I might be able to stay the night... I was hoping to camp. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kjzypjGW6L...%2B-%2B504.jpg He said that it would be okay to camp in the park in front of their office. Sounded good and safe. It was late, so I didn't put up a fight... I just put up my makeshift tent...a ground cover and an lean-to cover hooked to the back of Emi... and laid down for the night. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1ACtQoTEp...hile-pucon.jpg I got up early the next morning and rode to the town of Pucon. Pucon is known as a adventure tourist town that is overshadowed by a volcano and surrounded by hot springs. Many people climb the volcano, mountain bike the hills and paddle the rivers. In the winter there is skiing. I didn't feel like I had time to enjoy it all. I was being called south. However, in the evening, I was able to visit the hot springs. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-veCx71JztI...%2B-%2B574.jpg From Pucon I traveled to Puerto Montt. From Santiago to Puerto Montt was about 1300 km. Not bad for 3 days of riding. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OC-T3lWZS_...%2B-%2B594.jpg Puerto Montt is a seaside town that has an active seafood market and... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ANGpzpcx2A...%2B-%2B595.jpg This...NAVIMAG! NAVIMAG is a ferry that travels from Puerto Montt (Central Chile) to Puerto Natales (Southern Chile). For some reason I like saying NAVIMAG... it just rolls off my tongue. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--3SejHRNSf...montt-nata.jpg The journey takes 3 nights and 4 days and is suppose to be pretty scenic. BBC Travel and Leisure sites the NAVIMAG voyage as one of the most beautiful ferry rides in the world. I thought that I should check it out... it might actually be good, save me some time, save me some wear and tear on Emi and most importantly... get me around the gas shortage areas in the Lake District. I'm hoping that I can revisit the Lake District later... after the protests, blockades and gas shortage situation are resolved. I can't take credit for this idea... my friend Rodrigo suggested the route. So I booked a trip on the Navimag. Me as a passenger. Emi as cargo. We would set sail in 3 days. For the full story visit Southbound |
The Adventure Begins... Puerto Montt and More Motorcycle Maintenance
The NAVIMAG ferry was not leaving for 3 days. I decided to check around Puerto Montt for some motorcycle maintenance.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wc4GUZhr_O...%2B-%2B516.jpg Turns out there was a Suzuki dealer and workshop in Puerto Montt. I took Emi in for an oil change, filter change, lube and valve timing. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l0_jDGTxIq...%2B-%2B517.jpg I've never done a valve timing, but I watched the mechanic as he did the work. Seems pretty simple. I'll have to try it some day. I also asked the mechanic to add a carb drainage tube and adjust the idle a little. Emi had been running a little rough. He did it and showed me how to do it. Now I know. I didn't feel like staying in Puerto Montt for three days, so I decided to visit a town just north called Puerto Varas. |
The Adventure Begins... Puerto Varas and Frutillar
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I stopped by the lakeside town of Puerto Varas. It's a small to midsize town surrounded by hill country and a few volcanos. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...Q/s288/123.jpg I'm not much of a shopper, but the town happened to have stores by some of my favorite brands. The North Face... Salomon... https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...4/s288/124.jpg And Orvis. I did not buy anything from TNF or Salomon, but I could not resist picking up a new fly reel from Orvis. This is Southern Chile and I'd soon be traveling to Patagonia. Some world class trout fishing is available in the rivers in the area. I could not pass up the opportunity. I have not bought many souvenirs on this trip, so I thought that a nice reel would be an excellent souvenir, especially if I wound up catching a memorable fish. A simple but bare necessity. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7...g/s288/126.jpg I met a fellow traveler named Eva from Germany and we decided to check out some of the sites. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...4/s288/127.jpg We made a side trip a town on the other side of the lake called Fruitillar. It's a town that was established by German settlers and it was easy to see the influence in the architecture and food. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...c/s288/128.jpg We visited the Museo Colonial Aleman (German Colonial Museam). https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G...w/s288/129.jpg There were some buildings that demonstrated how the German settlers lived during the colonization of the area. A dining room. A blacksmith shop and stable. See Video A water powered mill. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-d...M/s288/132.jpg Ahh... fresh spring water. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VIQRAev2Js...ile_kuchen.jpg I learned a new German word...kuchen (cake). I found a bakery that had a raspberry meringue kuchen. I ordered it...ate it... and it was gut (good). For the full story visit Puerto Varas |
The Adventure Begins... Fly Fishing The Rio Hueno Hueno
When I was visiting the Orvis store I inquired with the shop manager where I should try out my new reel.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W...k/s288/141.jpg He directed me to the Rio Hueno Hueno. It was about a 40km ride east of Puerto Varas. I was hoping that the Rio Hueno Hueno would be bueno bueno. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...A/s288/142.jpg It had been raining quite a bit over the past few days. Upon my arrival I noticed that the river was quite high and the current was running rather fast. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...g/s288/136.jpg Near a bridge and down an embankment I found a nice little spot to park Emi. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...s/s288/138.jpg I prepped my rod and reel. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...k/s288/139.jpg Then I set off and hiked maybe a quarter mile down the river bank. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1...4/s288/143.jpg I was the first person on the river...not a soul around. See video I found a nice piste and started to fish. Magical. As I mentioned before, the river was high and the current was running fast. Not ideal conditions for trout fishing. Ends up that I could not spot nor catch any fish. Still the endeavor was worthwhile. The ride to the river was fun. The area around the river was beautiful. The weather was cooperating with partly sunny and partly cloudy skies. Just a wonderful day. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...A/s288/144.jpg As consolation, there were a number of raspberry bushes along the banks of the river. I ate my fill. I returned to Puerto Varas in the early afternoon. After a taste of fly fishing in Chile...I knew I wanted more. |
The Adventure Begins... Puerto Montt and NAVIMAG'ing
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I returned to Puerto Montt. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b3lmOdxFL8...%2B-%2B597.jpg I visited the artisan market. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y8O-B29gnA...%2B-%2B600.jpg Where they produce various types of woven objects of wool... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N-GSQXRhoz...%2B-%2B602.jpg And these wooden mates (mugs) for drinking yerba mate. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0s90LFrIx8...%2B-%2B584.jpg The artisan market was near the seafood market http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--KrtcrE6_D...%2B-%2B586.jpg Where they had various types of shellfish... http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xhb5QUIPNu...%2B-%2B591.jpg Sea urchins... http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5JJgOHsbeA...%2B-%2B590.jpg And packaged smoked salmon. I bought a package. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kwT30U6ztg...%2B-%2B592.jpg There were a number of friendly dogs hanging around ready to pick up scraps. But I wasn't in Puerto Montt to shop or eat seafood. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wt-6jJL_po...%2B-%2B595.jpg I was there to NAVIMAG! http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EhvsvY-7gR...%2B-%2B596.jpg While these people were waiting to board the NAVIMAG http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S8a2eKLPfM...%2B-%2B610.jpg I was boarding with Emi into the cargo deck. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kvhic0_juL...%2B-%2B605.jpg I met some fellow adventure motorcyclists while boarding the NAVIMAG. Jordan and Sandra are from Canada and riding around South America on BMW F650s... and NAVIMAGing. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AU4bQZz3Ot...%2B-%2B619.jpg We set sail. See Video It was smooth sailing. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6bXwAkHsnw...%2B-%2B665.jpg There were a number of people on board that I'd met in the previous week while staying at different hostels... Grant (USA) Eva (Germany) and Joyeeta (USA) http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uGfCLe3Xk5...%2B-%2B624.jpg To pass time we played cards, mostly spades. Thomas (Holland), Eva (Germany), Joyeeta (USA) and Monique (Holland). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vP9uvFuQ2d...%2B-%2B615.jpg Settlers of Catan... The dice version... http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qx8CD02YdB...%2B-%2B627.jpg and Bingo. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l3bxRaK8nr...%2B-%2B678.jpg We would eat this this cafeteria. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zTstLNw14F...%2B-%2B673.jpg We'd pass time in this lounge. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PdjVA_UYy6...%2B-%2B662.jpg We traveled through channels and fjords. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sBYn-fvgq7...%2B-%2B671.jpg The captain kept us on course from the bridge. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tQdc_8KLts...%2B-%2B637.jpg It was cloudy for much of the trip. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S7hfwnwfkU...%2B-%2B674.jpg But even from inside the scenery was pretty cool. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f9qny84yuk...%2B-%2B617.jpg And once once in a while the skies opened up. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ks2p85Mdru...%2B-%2B792.jpg To reveal some of the surrounding mountains and fjords. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oBzeI-PzCn...%2B-%2B646.jpg Our little ferry was dwarfed by the immensity of our surroundings. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5QVBOHAnYz...-%2Bglacer.jpg A highlight of the trip was when we passed by this glacier. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--6udDCkpMo...%2B-%2B690.jpg Before I knew it, we had reached Puerto Natales and it was time to deboard. For the full story visit NAVIMAGing |
The Adventure Begins... The Final Stretch
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From Puerto Natales I rode to Punta Arenas. See Video The road to Punta Arenas was asphalt, smooth and scenic, but a bit windy. See Video I came across this Colombian Adventure Scooter rider who was riding from Colombia to Ushuaia on a Yamaha 125 Scooter. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EJ7z3huN-X...%2B-%2B674.jpg From Punta Arenas I took a 2 hour ferry ride to the town of Provenir. It was late, so I found an hotel and stayed the night in Provenir. See Video From Provenir to San Sebastion, the road was dirt and gravel and through the rain. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NO5cVUqpoe...%2B-%2B690.jpg In San Sebastian I passed through the Argentinian border post. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jc8td8hBjB...%2B-%2B697.jpg The border agent incorrectly stamped my temporary driver permit with an exit stamp instead of an entry stamp. Luckily I caught the error and she corrected it. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7DUusSgVkz...%2B-%2B722.jpg I passed through the town of Rio Grande and I knew that I was close. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VZlkp7ckKd...%2B-%2B728.jpg The scenery changed from desert to coast to forrest. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NMaKggWJ5K...%2B-%2B732.jpg I was getting close and I knew the end of the road was approaching. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uAg6QJD8sk...%2B-%2B738.jpg I took a break at this scenic overlook to take it all in. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--_0yuJ4zN6...%2B-%2B737.jpg The overlook had a nice view of a lake and the Girabaldi Pass. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FkxgPpugMT...%2B-%2B075.jpg And then I arrived in Ushuaia. |
The Adventure Begins... Ushuaia...The End Of The World
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Well... I made it. An ordinary guy... on an extraordinary adventure. The adventure began in Texas. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EkXwaxdzAl...%2B-%2B072.jpg Texas a la Tierra... Austin, Texas, USA to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina... The End of the World...El Fin Del Mundo. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ikXp4dwoIF...%2B-%2B070.jpg About 13,000 miles (20,000 km) over 5 months. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-82twxc-Jlk...%2B-%2B047.jpg My trusty girl Emi along for the ride. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-672jWzb9wN...%2B-%2B052.jpg Through sun, heat, clouds, cold, wind and rain. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HfknXzaPqi...%2B-%2B050.jpg Over asphalt, gravel, dirt and sand... land, air and sea. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nC6CL7DvAo...%2B-%2B056.jpg Great people, places and adventures along the way. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vx6VMSEDqP...%2B-%2B066.jpg Time to jump for joy! http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ygVoqMjrlv...%2B-%2B049.jpg There is not much more for me to do... ...other than to head south. |
The Adventure Begins... When The Road Ends
Ushuaia is known as el fin del mundo (the end of the world). It is the largest city in this isolated part of the world. However, there is actually a smaller town that is 20km further south of Ushuaia called Lapataia. I traveled to Lapataia and sought out the actual end of the road.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a...4/s288/168.jpg This is the end of the road, the marker, Emi and me. Okay, it is official. I hit the end of the road. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s...M/s288/170.jpg The signs says, "Here ends route No. 3" https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...Y/s288/171.jpg Here is the view at the end of the road. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...0/s288/172.jpg And a little beyond. |
Wow, I didn't know about Lapataia. I will have to put that on my watchlist. Thanks for the report. i really enjoyed reading about your adventure.
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The Adventure Begins...Big Adventure Motorcycle Comparison - BMW R1200GS vs. KTM 990
See the Video
I thought that some of you might enjoy this adventure motorcycle comparison test: BMW R1200GS vs. KTM 990 Adventure vs. Yamaha Super Tenere. How the big boys stack up against each other side by side. |
The Adventure Begins... Antarctica
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Antarctica...The South Pole...The White Continent...The Seventh Continent...Terra Australis. While I was in Santiago, Chile I met some travelers that had just returned from Antarctica. They shared with me that in Ushuaia it was possible to book last minute trips to Antarctica at a pretty steep discount. It peaked my interest. I researched it a little bit and found it to be true. But, there was a catch. The arctic exploration season is short, generally lasting about 4 months from late November to early March. I was told the last voyages typically leave the first week of March. I would have to rush. And so I rushed through Southern Chile riding at a pretty rapid pace. I traveled most days and only stopped for short excursions. I jumped on a ferry which helped me cover quite a bit of ground/sea in a short amount of time. I arrived in Ushuaia on March 7th I booked a voyage to Antarctica on March 8th The ship set sail on March 9th For the full story visit Antarctica |
The Adventure Begins... Gone Fishing
Sorry, I've been a way for awhile.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yUsD8Y5C7w...ina+-+0513.jpg While in Patagonia, I decided to do a little fishing. Click on the links for the full stories. Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego Rio Ewen Rio Grande Rio Maullin Rio Malleo |
The Adventure Begins... A Slight Detour of 5 Hours
From the town of Rio Grande I planned to ride across Tierra del Fuego through San Sebastian to a little town call Provenir from which I would take a 2 hour ferry to Puntas Arenas.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7gd5MLs22U...ile+-+0882.jpg The journey started off on asphalt with moderate wind gust of around 20mph. By now any gusts under 50mph are manageable. When I reached the pampa the wind dropped...but so did the rain. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gAIOljP3xl...ile+-+0869.jpg From San Sebastion it was gravel and dirt and rain. Luckily it was not cold, so I didn't mind it so much. Actually I kind of enjoyed it. There was absolutely no traffic on the road. Except for a patagonia fox, a few guanacos and some nandus. I tried to stop and take photos, but those critters are fast. Sometimes when I'm riding in these remote areas with no traffic coming or going I get a little nervous. What if I go down? What if I get lost? But for some reason today all of those negative thoughts did not occupy my mind. I was open to whatever lay ahead. The total ride should have taken about 4 hours. But the rain, animals and some photo taking slowed me down. As I neared Provenir I checked my watch... 1:55pm. Uh oh... the ferry was leaving at 2:00pm. I needed to push. I sped through town. Just as I was pulling up to the ferry loading area...the ferry was raising it's gate and pulling out to sea. I had missed it by about 2 minutes. Shucks! My options were not good. The ferry departed once a day. The next ferry would be the next day. There was an alternative route in which I could travel east and north, take a 15 minute ferry, then west and south, basically making a loop around the Strait of Magellan and a bay. The route would take about 5-6 hours. I was kicking myself for stopping to take photos of those guanacos. I didn't even get a good shot before they ran off. Not wanting to stay in Provenir and waste daylight I decide to take the alternative route. I asked for directions from two different people. It's my way of confirming directions. Each person warned me that the first stretch is ripio (gravel). I asked how bad it was. All I got back in response was a facial gesture that I was not entirely sure how to interpret. Ripio can be fun to ride in if it is compacted, but dreadful to ride in if it is loose. I filled up with gas, then headed off. The first few miles it was all asphalt. And then came the ripio. I slowed down. At first the road was primarily hard pack dirt with small pieces of gravel the size of peas. Easy to ride on. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...g/s288/173.jpg Then I came across some larger gravel the size of olives. Still easy to ride on, but the larger pieces of gravel allow the tire to slide around a bit more. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T...o/s288/171.jpg Then came grooves of hard packed dirt with banks of loose gravel. It's fine to ride in the grooves, but to move over one of the banks or to react in an emergency could be tricky. I relaxed and rode on. Every once in a while I'd come across a grapefruit sized rock in the middle of my groove that I would have to avoid. OK, hop the bank, no problem. But honestly, I was kind of in the zone. See video The weather had cleared and the wind was moderate. I was riding and standing and weaving between the obstacles like it was second nature. I was enjoying this. After about 2:30 hours of pure riding bliss I came upon the Strait of Magellan where I would catch a 15 minute ferry to the other side of the bay. This ferry was still waiting for me. Since this was a short crossing the ferry crew did not even strap down Emi. I was kind of surprised. I was wondering if they were just playing games with the foreigner, but no, no one came to strap down Emi. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...I/s288/170.jpg While we were in transit I got off Emi to take this picture. As we crested a wave Emi was rocked and almost fell over. I decided that I should sit on her to hold her steady for the remainder of the crossing. After crossing the Straight of Magellan I headed west and south along the bay. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TPPw4InwFv...ile+-+0902.jpg I came to an intersection. Staring at me from across the road and up on a plateau was this guanaco. It was all by itself... just standing there... staring at me... after about 2 minutes it left... then I left. The road was asphalt, but the wind really started to pick up. I leaned into the wind to keep my bike straight. Also, I employed the technique of sticking leg out to act as a sail to capture the wind...I call it the chicken wing technique. It was a pretty uncomfortable ride for 3 hours. What started out as a nice ride in the dirt during the morning turned into a brutal ride against the wind. I did see some more guanacos. And some nandus. I arrived in Punta Arenas at about 8pm. It was already dark. I found a hostel and found the bed. It had been a long day, but I reached my destination. I was happy. For the full story visit A Slight Detour |
The Adventure Begins... Into The Wind
Punta Arenas was a stopover. My real intention was to reach Puerto Natales. In Puerto Natales I was going to meet my friend Sarka (Chech Republic) and we were going to trek in the Torres Del Paine Park.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RmdCVL9S9A...%2Bnatales.jpg The road from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales was pretty straight and all smooth asphalt. But, the wind was tremendous. I believe the wind gusts were probably the strongest that I have encountered... somewhere between 40 to 50 mph. Strong consistent wind is not hard to ride against... it is predictable. However, wind gusts hit you at variable times and with variable strength. Usually when you least expect it. On occasion the gusts were blowing me 3 to 4 feet across the road. Thankfully, the wind was blowing left to right. Thus, I was being blown toward the shoulder of the road and not into oncoming traffic. I typically ride at 60 to 70 mph. Because of the gusts I thought that it would be prudent to slow down... 45 was about right. Luckily there wasn't much traffic, just Emi and I and open space. I clutched my handlebars a little firmer, crouched down, grinned and bared it. Into the wind! |
The Adventure Begins... Torres Del Paine - Trekking The W
I met my friend Sarka in Puerto Natales.
I first met Sarka in San Augustine, Colombia and we went horseback riding. I saw her again in Quito, Ecuador and we shared a meal. Once again in Banos, Ecuador and we went out for a drink. Then in Ushuaia, we connected again. It's a small world. It was in Ushuaia that we discussed that we were both heading to Torres del Paine and we decided to try to meet up and trek together. Torres del Paine National Park is a park encompassing mountains, a glacier, a lake, and river-rich areas in the southern Chilean Patagonia. The park is located 112 km (70 mi) north of Puerto Natales. The landscape of the park is dominated by the Paine massif, which is an eastern spur of the Andes located on the east side of the Grey Glacier. Small valleys separate the spectacular granite spires and mountains of the massif. Sarka and I met at the Eratic Rock Hostel which hosts a briefing every day with good info about trekking in the Torres del Paine Park. After the briefing, we assembled our gear, bought groceries and purchased bus tickets to the park. The next day we would start our trek. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mHjxtkdxmH...-paine-map.jpg Our objective was to hike the W. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2t6Szk_Bou...aine-map2.tiff Here is a satellite image of what the terrain really looks like...lakes, valleys and mountains. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HNdP3o8Spl...ile+-+0928.jpg Hopefully as we trekked the W we would have a chance to see the Torres del Paine, French Valley and Grey Glacier. For the full story see Torres del Paine Trekking the W |
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