Hi, this might be a stupid question, but it's been many years since I did a tubed tyre change.
Should I start at the valve or opposite? Additionally what should I be looking for in type/shape/style of levers?

Cheers, Richard.

i start opposite the valve for removal and work both sides round to the valve, by the time you get there its normally already off. make sure bead is broken both sides and tyre in the wheel well, this give you maximum slack.

start at the valve when fitting and make sure the harder bit around the valve is in the tyre and not squashed by the bead.

use good tyre irons not spoons, and a good soap on the tyre when refitting makes life easier. some say dont use washing up liquid and the chemicals in it can corrode alloy rims, likewise wd40 may speed up perishing of tube.

if you can, work on the opposite side to the sprocket. 2 reasons, 1 you wont warp the disc by leaning on it and 2 you wont beat your knuckles to death on an oiley sprocket.

most important dont rush, theres nothing worse than changing a tyre and pinching the tube.

If you start at the valve then after doing about a quater of the tyre it will want to go into the bed with the valve and that's not such a good idea.

Start at the valve and the tyre will be out of its way.

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Cheers,
Peter.

Europe to NZ 2006-10

I agree with beddhist when removing the tyre you start at the valve .
When fitting you finish at the valve .
Otherwise the valve will disappear into the well of the rim because you have to push the tyre into the well of the rim to give you room to pop the beads off the rim .

Easier to do it than describe it !

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Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

If you have sturdy tires (Michelin Desert for instance), it helps to use plenty of soap and water. I had 3 small motorcycle tire-irons with a nice curve at the end, and one big automobile iron for the last push (I wouldn't have been able to do it without).

If you are looking for a nice pump, I can recommend the Topeak Mountain Morph. It has a handle and a foot pad: quite appreciated after 350 strokes in the sun.

Pierre - http://www.photobiker.com

I was told to remove
Start at the valve as you can compress the tyre opposite the valve so it goes into the well of the wheel.
When putting tyre back on finsh at the valve again so tyre can be compressed into the well opposite the valve while you lever the tyre on.