Hi I have a Mitisbushi Canter truck year 2000 same as the Fuso done about 35000 miles.
Its not 4x4 and my work truck but I need some advice and know there is alot of knowledge here.
When I press the clutch pedal it is very hard at first. If you push very hard it will move about 10mm and then feel ok and work ok. When you try to press again same thing.
I had a similar problem on a ford transit and it was just the ratchet on the cluch cable so I thought my canter would be an easy fix.
A mechanic had a quick look and there was fluid by the clutch pedal he said I need a new master cylinder.
I spoke to the mechanic who works on my truck and without seeing my truck he says I need a new clutch and possible master cylinder if I have bent some thing in the cylinder.
The clutch is about £480 labour about £350 plus vat thats without the master cylinder.
Does this sound ok
The truck is in London and due to new emission laws I can only use it for another 12 months so would rather not spend best part of £1000 if possible
I have had this truck 8 years and this is the first problem.
Someone with knowledge of Mitsis can probably give a more meaningful diagnosis, but my first thought would be worn master cylinder as there is fluid leaking round the pedal, and it can make it feel notchy or stiff if the inside of the cylinder is worn.
Not to say there aren't problems with the clutch unit itself though - if it were mine I'd take it to a fast fit clutch centre and see what they think, they'll do it cheaper too if it needs doing.
No experience with Mitsis either i'm afraid, but FWIW, if the master cylinder is leaking (sounds that way) then it needs replacing for sure. It should be a fraction of the price of a clutch change, cheaper part & much much less time/effort to fit. If it were me, i think i'd do that and hope it sorted it.
If it needs a new clutch at 35000 miles you have some serious driving technique problems - very unlikely in my opinion, but maybe possible if you like hill starts in 3rd gear!! If it is a clutch I'd be having a chat with Mitsu and see if they will ante up some pro rata as thats appalling for 35000 miles.
If the master cyl is leaking, pull back the boot and have a look, lot of liquid drips out then you know there's a leak and it needs replacing, your clutch/brake fluid resevoir should also be getting low on a regular basis. Fix the master cyl before even discussing a new clutch with a mechanic, it will probably fix the clutch problem.
Its not a difficult DIY job - bit fiddly maybe.
For a DIY job, about 2 - 3 hours, competent mechanic about 3/4 to 1 hour.
Mitsu clutches are not the beefiest IMO - however you shouldnt need a new clutch at that mileage as the guys have mentioned.
does sound like the master cylinder needs replacing/overhauling - and if you are keeping the vehicle for a while its worth replacing master and slave cylinders, flush and replace the fluid with silicon brake/clutch fluid - you will then have a super smooth pedal.
Thanks for replys
I will bring my truck to my mechanic today and hope it is just the master cylinder.
As for the truck needing a new clutch after just 35000 miles
The truck is 8 years old gets serviced with oil and filter changes once a year
When I bought the truck new I just got a cab and chassis and had a tipping body and tool box built built,(out of steel big mistake) the total weight of the truck and body is 2900kg I then tow a wood chipper that weighs 750kg and if the truck if full of wood chip it can weigh up 4750kg.
I live in London so the truck is in traffic all the time and never gets over 30mph so I think the clutch has alot of work to do.
My truck is the 3.5 ton version
I did plan on getting a new truck in 12 months as I will no longer be able to use mine in London due to new emission laws.
Has any one experince of the conversion on the exhaust system that allows older trucks to pass the emmisions test, I think they are expensive £3000 to £4000.
I have been told as the conversion is on the exhaust there is a good chance it will be stolen either to be resold or for the metal inside.
What you guys think
If you're going down the parts replacement route I have nothing to add.
However as you've said you're not willing to blow money on a truck that you might not keep, I'll share my experience:
It's not a Mistu, but the master cylinder on an old Mazda pickup I have started leaking and I couldn't get parts here in France (import from ZA).
So I had the whole lot apart and scrubbed the bits (piston, rod, cylinder) out with fine wire wool. To save the rubber seals I literally wiped off the perished layer on the lip of the seal with the wire wool. If your seals aren't split it's probably just liquid seeping pas a perished lip.
The whole lot went back together with some synthetic fluid and I forgot about it until I read your thread.
I think It was about 5 years ago.
Took an hour or two as I recall.
If you find a split seal you'd be surprised what a bearing/hydraulic supply shop can come up with to replace it. The whole unit replacement philosophy of the car parts industry annoys me when it's a tiny plastic bitonio that means the whole thingumy has to be replaced!
It annoys me even more as I designed bits for Renaults (NEVER buy one) and my bosses imposed these built in obsolescences because it costs less! They really don't give a toss about product life and customer satisfaction in the car industry, that's the salesman's job to convince the client he did something wrong.
Sorry I'm ranting.
Good luck with your clutch
These guys sell master cylinders for a Canter for £70 - it's an easy diy job to change a clutch cylinder, maybe a couple of hours if you've not done one before.
KS-International Mitsubishi Truck Parts Mitsubishi Canter FE659/649,FE85/84 Clutch
Find the slave cylinder (at the clutch end, usually mounted on the bellhousing), find he bleed nipple (just like you find on brakes), put a bit of thin tube over it and into a jar then open the bleed screw and pump the cutch pedal to drain the fuid. Close the nipple.
Swap the master cylinder over - usually a couple of bolts holding it to the bulkhead, and disconnect the pipe work. The cylinder should then just pull off.
Reconnect everything back up, fill it with fluid then open the nipple on the slave cylinder and bleed it through like you do on brakes to get all the air bubbles out.
If you can't be arsed to get grazed knuckles and covered in brake fluid though, just bear in mind that it's a 2hr max job for a mechanic and make sure the quote reflects that.
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