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Northern and Central Asia Topics specific to Russia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan, Mongolia, China, Japan and Korea
Photo by Ellen Delis, Lagunas Ojos del Campo, Antofalla, Catamarca

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Ellen Delis,
Lagunas Ojos del Campo,
Antofalla, Catamarca



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  #31  
Old 1 May 2013
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bam

yes i will be there, but hoping to move fairly quickly.

leaving moscow in august, aiming for vladivostok around 12 october.

solo bmw g650xc.

dave
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  #32  
Old 2 May 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dajg View Post
yes i will be there, but hoping to move fairly quickly.

leaving moscow in august, aiming for vladivostok around 12 october.

solo bmw g650xc.

dave
What's your planned route? I wouldn't want to still be doing water crossings in October if I could help it.
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  #33  
Old 8 May 2013
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Zimi,

Two of us are having trip from UB to Magadan departing end of July from UB on Yamaha Tenere's.
Do you have exact time of leaving UB?

Cheers,
van
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  #34  
Old 8 May 2013
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Originally Posted by Zimi View Post
Hi Mate,

I will be on these road too with a motorbike. Going from Ulan Bator mid of July to Magdan, hope to ride first the western bam and then the old summer road.
Will have approx 4 weeks in total.

Hi, we are heading from UB to magadan on the late July. 2 bikers. We are both Mongolian Nationality.
Let us know your plans in Mongolia. We can have some good trips there as well.

Cheers,
Van
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  #35  
Old 12 May 2013
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Hi
june may be early for the 110, if the snow melt is not yet through. You might get over the first Bargusinn ford by the park rangers in a rowing boat, the second crossing, if not feasable, has to be made by an occasional truck.
As for maps I like the old soviet military maps, you can find them at many places in the web and print the relevant regions, for the BAM they are sometimes eroneous, as the track was only planed when the maps were edited. But the OSM-maps are ok for a simple updated information.
For bike parts Yakutsk is a good stop, there is a sports shop with a good sortiment and a local who can help you out (you might find him over the guys from the local bikeclub).

Christian
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  #36  
Old 13 May 2013
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I've just come back from the consulate to collect my passport which contains my visa. Things are approaching very quickly

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chri8 View Post
Hi
june may be early for the 110, if the snow melt is not yet through. You might get over the first Bargusinn ford by the park rangers in a rowing boat, the second crossing, if not feasable, has to be made by an occasional truck.
As for maps I like the old soviet military maps, you can find them at many places in the web and print the relevant regions, for the BAM they are sometimes eroneous, as the track was only planed when the maps were edited. But the OSM-maps are ok for a simple updated information.
For bike parts Yakutsk is a good stop, there is a sports shop with a good sortiment and a local who can help you out (you might find him over the guys from the local bikeclub).

Christian
Hi Christian

I've had a look at your blog, good to hear from you.

I've known that the 110 could be a bit dicey in June. I only expect to be at the first Barguzin river crossing after the 23rd. Worst case I'll do some fishing and wait for a truck.

I've downloaded "russian military maps" onto both my phone and tablet. It's an android mapping application and it can be used to view some soviet military maps as well as OSM, google roads, google satelite etc. Both devices have gps locating so that will be pretty good for navigating, but I'd prefer some sort of paper map just to look, plan and take notes. I'm thinking I'll do some printing and create a map of the track in particular. I've heard that navigation isn't much of a problem on the BAM and from what I can see the 110 isn't much of an issue either.

Right now I'm planning on sticking to the BAM. Do you know if there is a bike shop or sports shop in Tynda? I'll want to change my chain there (just an 8spd so should be easy to find). If I end up going to Yakutsk and onwards to Magadan I'll try and get in contact with the local club.

Would you recommend taking a folding saw for firewood etc? I'm tossing up whether it is worth the extra space/weight.

I've been meaning to read through your blog again, I only glossed over the maps and photos as my german doesn't extend to more than about 25 words. Time to try google transjumbilator.

Thanks for your help

Luke
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  #37  
Old 13 May 2013
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Hi Luke

fishing is a good idea at the Bargusin river, when we waited at the ford, the crew of the truck waiting on the other side was also fishing and recomended it a lot.
I would reduce weight and take not too many gadgets (saw), though an interesting gadget could be an Alpacka. I would consider it if doing the Eastern BAM (I don´t know this stretch). For the stove I can recomend a hobo, we had a newfire hobo last summer (150 g), it worked fine, but on the BAM and the rest of the journey I had not to cook too often myself, the hospitality is really unbelievable and in the bigger villages there are restaurants.
On our actual journey we have for the first time a tablet and smart phone with us, so I can confirm the app "Soviet military maps" is great, especially the offline maps. Indeed navigation is not too difficult, the main questions are, is there a cafe or shop in the next village (does the village exist?) and it is nice to locate yourself.
As for bike parts, BAM is not very well provisioned. In my blog is a photo of the best shops bike parts I found in Severobaikalsk (can't link it, as currently in China without VPN), I don't know if Tynda has the same choice, but would assume it. If I were you I would take a good chain as spare part from home. You can in case of an emergency organize some parts in Novaja Chara, by asking the people to order something in Chita and sending it with the plane (I think it comes twice a week).
As for bears, be prepared to hear a lot from the locals (apasna = dangerous). I only saw once a bear in two summers in Russia, that was on Tenkinskaya three days before Magadan.

Have a good summer (the region is great and I would like to go there another time, but three summers in a row is perhaps too often)

Christian

As for meeting english speaking people, on the BAM I only met one (Iker) more are to be found on the way to Yakutsk and Magadan (mainly motorcyclists)
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  #38  
Old 13 May 2013
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Those were my thoughts re the saw. If there were more than one person I would take it as it is nice to socialise by the fire at the end of a day and you can split the weight. With one person it is probably less important and fires can be made without it.

I don't really want to take a spare chain with me. My chain could be shortened by quite a few links before things get tight, and even more if I decide not to use the big chainring (which is going to be pretty rare on those roads anyway). I'll of course start with a new chain and have a chainbreaker with me.

I'll be taking my primus gravity II. I really like cooking so don't want to skimp too much on that side of things, though it is possibly the lightest multi-fuel stove.

I am keeping things pretty minimal. My dummy pack had me fit everything into 3 ortlieb back rollers with enough space for at least 3 days of food. I will be taking 4 back roller panniers though with the intention of having plenty of spare space. I don't have a handle bar bag or anything on the rear rack, just a top tube pouch for the camera. I've done enough touring to know what I use and what I don't. The saw seems like it could be a good idea but I don't think it's too important. I may be able to find a small one somewhere around Chara or similar if I change my mind.

I'm going through your blog now, I'll eventually see the photo in the bike shop. I really don't think I'll need anything unless I break an axle or similar. I'll have a spare tire, spare bearings, spare spokes and tools to deal with it all. Anything else that happens is going to be something that you wouldn't be able to prepare for and just have to figure out a replacement or other fix.

You sure you don't want to give the eastern BAM a try and make it a 4th year?


Luke
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  #39  
Old 14 May 2013
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Hi Luke

I didn't want to convince you not to take a stove, I was just astonished by the hobo last year and it has definitly a style that fits to Russia.
As for the chain, i just replaced a cheap one 4 days ago after 300 km, zhe caliber told me it was through.
This summer Russia is not feasable as the visa from abroad is a hasle. But Kyrgystan should be a nice alternative, so I hear some Russian, get smetana and pelmeny.

Have a good trip
Christian
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  #40  
Old 14 May 2013
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I've been thinking about the hobo stove, the idea is growing on me. I might put one together and see how I like it. My first reaction was just that I love my stove, but I can see a hobo stove being good in quite a few ways and just enjoyable to use.

I'll do a bit more research and try and figure out a way to get a spare chain. If neccesary i'll take a chain with me, it's better than using a low quality chain that won't last.
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  #41  
Old 17 May 2013
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I'm not worried about the safety side of things all that much. Mostly I'm concerned about the solitude and not having any depth of communication with the locals. I have just started to learn a bit of russian but I won't be having any philosophical debates in Russian that's for sure.
Most people end up having much more in depth conversations with Russians than they think possible.

After vodka, all sorts of philosophy opens up ...
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  #42  
Old 18 May 2013
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It can be amazing how much you can communicate if both parties put the effort in. I have been learning some basics which I expect to lead to me learning quite a bit more as I use it. I'm looking forward to being able to hold a conversation.

I'll try not to become fluent enough in vodka'd philosophy that I wake up on the bam with nothing but a kids tricycle and someone elses clothes. That would pose as a bit of a challenge. (Or worse, a harley)

Last edited by black_labb; 18 May 2013 at 06:39.
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  #43  
Old 14 Jun 2013
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Bump for any people with updated plans or whatever.

Landed in Khabarovsk this evening and am pretty happy to be here, reminds me a lot of Ukraine in a good way.
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  #44  
Old 15 Jun 2013
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whats the latest version of your manpowered plans, Black Labb ?
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  #45  
Old 15 Jun 2013
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Planning on riding Ulan ude to novy urgal then to vanino on the bam. I will see how things go and I may take the train for some of it.

Spent the evening at Gustav Cafe and I couldn't remember why but the name seemed familiar. I think it is where you wished join goodbye on your 2009 trip if I am not mistaken.
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