Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Regional Forums > Northern Asia

Northern Asia Topics specific to Russia, Central Asia (also known as "the 'stans"), Mongolia, Japan and Korea
Contact Overland Solutions for all your custom modifications and setup for overland travel.

Refreshing, funny, informative, thought provoking, honest, inspirational, infectious, budget overlanding. A handbook, a guidebook but ultimately a genuine traveller’s tale

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 8 Nov 2011
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 86
Tajikistan Road Question

Has anyone been up the road along the Pamir River (Afghanistan border) from Khargush east to Lake Zorkul and beyond?

Do you need a special permit to go into this area? Where do you get the permit?

On the map the road appears to continue all the way around- east and then north back to the Pamir Highway and Murghab? Has anyone here been that way?

What condition is it in?

How are the river crossings in there?


Any information is greatly appreciated. We are making plans to ride in the Pamirs in the summer of 2012.


....................shu
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 8 Nov 2011
colebatch's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: London / Moscow
Posts: 1,739
You are talking the route after Khargush highlighted in green?



In theory, that road east of Khargush is a military area, and you need an additional permit to be there.

In practise it is possible to ride around the military checkpoint at Khargush, feign heading north, and once out of sight, turn east and pick up the road again.

I believe yes the road does rejoin the Pamir Highway at Murgab. You will need to take a fair bit of fuel with you. I think the fuel range required to go around that Kyzylrabat (Qizilrabat) corner will be quite large. The last fuel available before Khargush is at Langar. There is no fuel at Khargush and its very possible there is no fuel at Kyzylrabat or Tokhtamish. Meaning you would have to have a range to get from Langar to Murgab via the corner of Tajikistan.

You should have a chat with Sambor on this forum, he has been down that road - certainly as far as Zorkul - and possibly further.
__________________
__________________________________________________ ________________
"Do NOT go wherever the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path, and leave a trail"



Sibirsky Extreme - Adventure Motorcycling Guide to Siberia and Mongolia - on Facebook

Click here for Sibirsky Extreme Trail DVD Trailer

Last edited by colebatch; 9 Nov 2011 at 16:51.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 8 Nov 2011
colebatch's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: London / Moscow
Posts: 1,739
Permit

by the way, a guy I know in the travel industry in Dushanbe who reckons he could get a permit to use that road easily enough. If you wanted to do it "legally".
__________________
__________________________________________________ ________________
"Do NOT go wherever the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path, and leave a trail"



Sibirsky Extreme - Adventure Motorcycling Guide to Siberia and Mongolia - on Facebook

Click here for Sibirsky Extreme Trail DVD Trailer
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 8 Nov 2011
Registered Users
New on the HUBB
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 18
I have not traveled that road personally - I was considering it, but decided to not risk being trapped by weather in such a remote area as I was traveling in early Oct - but I met other travelers who did take that road in a hired 4x4.

They said the road was in decent condition, and I don't recall them mentioning any river crossings. There is very little out there - some herders in summer and a hunting lodge (mentioned in the LP guide). Definitely take Colebatch's advice regarding the extra fuel - in my experience in early October there was no fuel in Langar, the station at Vrang was also closed. We had to continue on to Zong to find fuel in drums shipped in from Kyrgyzstan. Of course if you're desperate someone will usually sell you a few liters for a price.

They picked up the permits in Khorog, I'd assume you can get them in Murghab as well. I think META (in LP guide) can arrange the permits, best to contact someone in advance I would think.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 9 Nov 2011
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 86
Thanks for the info.

Colebatch- Yes the green line is pretty much what I envisioned for a route, except possibly cutting north earlier right after Kotali Yangidawan. Thanks for the advice about the checkpoint. We're just thinking about it right now, but we may be back in touch for more info about 'the guy" you know.

MCole- thanks for the road conditions info, too.

It looks like fuel is probably going to be our limiting factor- from Kargush to Murghab looks like 250-300 km- probably need to carry 4-5 gallons extra each.

thanks..........shu
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 9 Nov 2011
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: No fixed abode
Posts: 71
Langar fuel and timing re Zorkul

Hi there,

I didn't do Zorkul, but I have two bits of info for you.

I got fuel in Langar last July. Langar is a sparse and scattered settlement. The place for fuel is couple of kms before the blue sign-posted homestay (on the right as you ride East and the only one I remember seeing). It's in a lone white-washed building/shop on the left heading East – ask around since there are no signs. From barrels, as if often the case in Tajikistan. But like MCole says, someone will help you if you're desperate.

And re Zorkul timing. I would aim to do it from mid-July onwards/ August. By this time the track should be dry. In Dushanbe I met an overlander with a Landcruiser. He had taken the track from Mughab to Zorkul and onto Hargushe Pass in June, but had got bogged down in mud somewhere near the lake and had to be toed out. All of which he loved. Stunning scenery he said.

Have a great time,

Bob
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 9 Nov 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bristol UK
Posts: 432
Interesting info.

I too have been looking at this route.

If you do decide to do it, please report back and let us know how you got on.

G
__________________
Land Rover D90
www.Siroccoverland.com | Follow us on Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10 Nov 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Cracow, Poland
Posts: 157
I have been there twice. Road is a bit sandy near Zorkul and stony between Zorkul and Jarty Gumbez. I don't recommend to do it on one bike. I never had a permit. This year my group was stopped on Khargush post by national park police and we paid fine about 5 dollars a bike because we didn't had permit.
There is plenty roads in this area which are not on a map presented by Walter. So be careful and don't make a mistake. It is about 200 km from Murgab through Zorkul Lake to Khargush. No fuel of course. Sometimes you can meet locals in 4x4.
__________________
www.africatwin.com.pl
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 15 Nov 2011
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 86
Thanks Sambor.

200 km from Murghab to Khargush......that actually sounds possible without too much extra fuel, as long as we don't get lost and wander around too much.


.............shu
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 3 Dec 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Jyvaskyla
Posts: 128
As i am planning ride Pamir Highway&Wakhan corridor for next year time around mid july so that i take small road to south to river&waken corridor from M41 and then ride to Ishkashim and then return to M41 in Kharug so i have few questions:
Lonely planet guide states that you need to have Ishkashim marked on your GBAO if you wish to visit Ishkashim. Any experiences? Is adding Ishkashim to GBAO only standart procedure and you have to mention it in your application?

There is every saturday transborder market in Ishkashim where both Afgan and Tajik people gather. I understood it is in small island between two countries but do you need visa to Afganistan to go there. I try to schedule my ride so that i would be there to visit and see it because i think it would be worthwile to see and experience.

I learned from Kazakstan&Mongolia ride 2010 that i try to spend some time in "target area" and see people, culture and take easy there taking pictures and seeing what happens there and not just ride from dawn till dusk.

Question expecially for Sambor as i know that you have ridden with AT's there and you have jetted bikes? I have put dynojet kit to my RD07 but what settings you have had when you have ridden Pamir. What kind of jet's and have you dropped needle from recommended position? I think default is 3rd or 4th hole from up (if i remember right)
__________________
www.samiv.org - My webpage
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 3 Dec 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Cracow, Poland
Posts: 157
All you need to go to Ishkhashim is GBAO permit. Permit is a stamp, different in different Tajik embassies. Sometimes with Lonely planet has wrong information. If you have Gbao permit you can stay and travel in whole Pamir area where other special permit is not necessary.
Market is in the island and you don't need any afghan visa to go there.
In the past I used dyno jet to reduce fuel in carb. It is not necessary. Keep away from the dust and check your air filter often. Everything wil be ok. CU in Pamir.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tirpse View Post
As i am planning ride Pamir Highway&Wakhan corridor for next year time around mid july so that i take small road to south to river&waken corridor from M41 and then ride to Ishkashim and then return to M41 in Kharug so i have few questions:
Lonely planet guide states that you need to have Ishkashim marked on your GBAO if you wish to visit Ishkashim. Any experiences? Is adding Ishkashim to GBAO only standart procedure and you have to mention it in your application?

There is every saturday transborder market in Ishkashim where both Afgan and Tajik people gather. I understood it is in small island between two countries but do you need visa to Afganistan to go there. I try to schedule my ride so that i would be there to visit and see it because i think it would be worthwile to see and experience.

I learned from Kazakstan&Mongolia ride 2010 that i try to spend some time in "target area" and see people, culture and take easy there taking pictures and seeing what happens there and not just ride from dawn till dusk.

Question expecially for Sambor as i know that you have ridden with AT's there and you have jetted bikes? I have put dynojet kit to my RD07 but what settings you have had when you have ridden Pamir. What kind of jet's and have you dropped needle from recommended position? I think default is 3rd or 4th hole from up (if i remember right)
__________________
www.africatwin.com.pl
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 3 Dec 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Jyvaskyla
Posts: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambor View Post
In the past I used dyno jet to reduce fuel in carb. It is not necessary. Keep away from the dust and check your air filter often. Everything wil be ok. CU in Pamir.
So you have just stock needles&jets in carb and not dynojets stage 1? I am thinking as i installed aftermarket exhaust and dynojet needles to carbs what kind of settings i should put to needles when i go to high altidude like Pamir. I will keep dynojet needles at least here in Finland because otherwise i belive fuel mixture wouldnt be correct with aftermarket exhaust (Remus)

Hopefully we see in Pamir.
__________________
www.samiv.org - My webpage

Last edited by Tirpse; 6 Dec 2011 at 19:50.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 8 Dec 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Jyvaskyla
Posts: 128
I stepped into the world of Garmin navigators and bought GPSMapper 478 and i yeasterday got familiar with MapSource and OSM maps. They seem to be excellent maps expecially for Russia.

However i noticed that there are not much routes/tracks in OSM from this area and like example Ishkashim is missing from OSM totally.

IF anyone has Garmin track/routes into that area and you are willing to share them please contact me.
__________________
www.samiv.org - My webpage
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 8 Dec 2011
colebatch's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: London / Moscow
Posts: 1,739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tirpse View Post
I stepped into the world of Garmin navigators and bought GPSMapper 478 and i yeasterday got familiar with MapSource and OSM maps. They seem to be excellent maps expecially for Russia.

However i noticed that there are not much routes/tracks in OSM from this area and like example Ishkashim is missing from OSM totally.

IF anyone has Garmin track/routes into that area and you are willing to share them please contact me.
The road thru Ishkasim is on OSM. Its marked as a main road. You mean the road to Kyzylrabat, Shaymak, Tokhtamysh?
__________________
__________________________________________________ ________________
"Do NOT go wherever the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path, and leave a trail"



Sibirsky Extreme - Adventure Motorcycling Guide to Siberia and Mongolia - on Facebook

Click here for Sibirsky Extreme Trail DVD Trailer
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 8 Dec 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Jyvaskyla
Posts: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by colebatch View Post
The road thru Ishkasim is on OSM. Its marked as a main road. You mean the road to Kyzylrabat, Shaymak, Tokhtamysh?
Hello,

Yes road to Ishkasim is there and also (in map below yellow road) smaller road which goes to east from Ishkasim and then back to M41. But actual Iskhasim village is missing from map or at least i didnt had in my version of OSM which i downloaded last night from garmin.openstreetmap.nl. Perhaps i have to recheck it but i am pretty certain it was missing

Ok if i now check directly from OSM site it is there but on Afganistan side so perhaps i missed it.
__________________
www.samiv.org - My webpage
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sydney to Germany - the African way BikingMarco Ride Tales 320 23 Sep 2012 10:31
London to Cape Town, November 2012 Tfoy97603 Travellers Seeking Travellers 56 4 Sep 2012 16:51
A Gringo in Colombia Ride4Adventure Ride Tales 13 20 Apr 2012 02:15
Bolivia road block arround Potosi ? HendiKaf South America 1 29 Oct 2011 19:48
Khartoum to Ethiopia Birdy Ride Tales 2 26 Oct 2011 21:32

 
 
 

NEW! HU 2015 Motorcycle Adventure Travel Calendar is now available! Get your copy now for some terrific travel inspiration!

HUGE, 11.5 x 16.5 inches, beautifully printed in Germany on top quality stock! Photos are the winning images from over 600 entries in the 9th Annual HU Photo Contest!

Horizons Unlimited 2015 Motorcycle Adventure Travel Calendar.

"The calendar is magnificent!"

"I just wanted to say how much I'm loving the new, larger calendar!"

We share the profit with the winning photographers. YOU could be in the HU Calendar too - enter here!


HU DVD Autumn Special!

Take 40% off Road Heroes Part 1 until October 31 only!

Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries two-up on a Harley); Dr. Greg Frazier (5 times RTW); Tiffany Coates (RTW solo female); and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).

The first in an exciting new series, Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers."Inspiring and hilarious!"

"I loved watching this DVD!"

"Lots of amazing stories and even more amazing photographs, it's great fun and very inspirational."

"Wonderful entertainment!"

Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'HEROES' on your order when you checkout.


Renedian Adventures


Renedian Adventures

What others say about HU...

"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada

"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia

"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders

contest pic

10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!

NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!

HU 2014 T-shirts now in!

Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!


What turns you on to motorcycle travel?


Global Rescue, WORLDwide evacuation services for EVERYONE

Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!


New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.


Books & DVDs

amazon

All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.


Motorcycle Express for shipping and insurance!

Motorcycle Express

MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:17.