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Northern Asia Topics specific to Russia, Central Asia (also known as "the 'stans"), Mongolia, Japan and Korea
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  #1  
Old 7 May 2012
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Russian linguists: what does this GBAO permit say?

Can any of you tell me what this Tajik GBAO permit is good for. Just got it back today in my passport. I asked for all areas and I need to make sure that is what I got before i am turned back somewhere while on the road for lack of the right permit. Also, is the date shown the starting date, or the last date? Just checking. I had to send my Kazak application twice before they did it right. Ditto for my Kyrg application.



I also asked for Zorkul Lake permission, but probably will have to get that locally somewhere.

KP
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Old 8 May 2012
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Hi

I've a GBAO-stamp in my passport, last time we had some problems with "KGB"-people, when we headed up the Shakdara-Valley, as the district of Roshtkala wasn't mentioned on our permit, you have the same stamp as we. We got our visa and stamp in Vienna.
The districts are stated starting with Darvoz, I would say if you do the normal routes no problem, heading to Wakhan you are only few kms in the district of Roshtkala (according to my map).
For Zorkul you get a permit in Khorog, for us it was only waiting an hour, before the lady arrived, but perhaps now you have to drive to their office, that is a little bit outside.

Regards

Christian
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Old 8 May 2012
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Actually, that is not in Russian, although it uses Cyrillic. Presumably it is Tajik. I've never ridden there so can't advise on what the viza allows you to do, but I've tried to transliterate the wording below:

In any event, the first line is basically unreadable. The last two words (Mintakai Sarkhady) might refer to a place, but I don't think so. The second and third lines say something about Darvoz, Vanch, Rushon, Ishkoshim, Murgob, Khorug.

The problem is that before these city names there is some word which I don't know, and which might mean anything from "excluding" to "via", which obviously could affect where you can go.
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Old 8 May 2012
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Thanks for your replies. Christian, when you were refused entry to Shakdara, did you get a permit somewhere, talk your way into it, or any indication where to get a permit or if it is even possible to get a permit? Where were you blocked? It is definetely on my route plan.

KP
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Old 8 May 2012
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yep, as Motoreiter said, you need someone who can read Tajik, not Russian.

Its as recognisable to a russian speaker as Icelandic is to an English speaker ... we can recognise most of the letters, but thats about it.

I can however see Ishkashim, Murgab and Khorog mentioned in there on the bottom line.

The Permit for Zorkol area is, I believe a military one. The Permit you have is an administrative one ... to channel money into the GBAO region in general. So as Chri8 has pointed out, they will be separate permits.
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Old 8 May 2012
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You could ask in Khorog or in Roshtkala itself.
As it was a strange encounter I'm not sure at what exactly we were.
We were already up the valley and would have to return to Roshtkala (so at least an additional day on a bicylce), but in the end we were invited to eat (unfortunatly they got us just when we finished our lunch) and after a while we could continue. So if I were you, I would just try, but it seems, that the people there know that the embassies stamp has an error (I don't think that Roshtkala would be a special case).
If you continue to the Pamir HWY it's ok (but perhaps hard ground), Mats is not feasable for motorbikes.

Regards

Christian
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Old 8 May 2012
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Karl you can go everywhere with this stamp except Zorkul lake area and Sarez lake. Assholes on M41 in Shakdara-Valley also tried to ask for money. I took photo, told them I am a journalist writing about coruption in central Asia and they allow me to ride.
First take a pen and put down number from his badge. Then ask about name. It is enough... If not take a mobile and try to call to your embassy. It works. On the other hand they asked only for 5 bucks...
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