Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Regional Forums > Northern and Central Asia
Northern and Central Asia Topics specific to Russia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan, Mongolia, China, Japan and Korea
Photo by Daniel Rintz, Himba children, Namibia

The only impossible journey
is the one
you never begin

Photo by Daniel Rintz,
Himba children, Namibia



Like Tree5Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10 Jun 2013
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: UK but currently on the road RTW
Posts: 206
Exclamation Afghanistan Vehicle entry permit - WARNING

Last week Griffdog and I tried to enter Afghanistan at the Ishkashim border with the intention of riding/driving as far along the Wakan Valley as possible given that its still early in the season.

Having stamped out of Tajikistan and arrived at the Afghan border the first thing we were asked for was our vehicle entry permit which, it transpires is NOT available at the border. The permit, known as a RUPOS must be purchased at the Afghan consulate in Khorog. No amount of negotiating, waiting for the captain to arrive, the captain calling his boss or phoning the consulate to ask if we could fax documents would get us in.

After years of waiting to be on the right continent to visit the Wakan I can't tell you how dissapointed I was.

Eventually we left my bike and Griffdog's Landrover in the Tajik army barracks and took a taxi from the border to Eskashim (9km/U$20), spent the night in a homestay/guesthouse (U$25pp) then another taxi back to the border (U$20) stopping to register our departure (U$10pp) in the village on the way out.

Before being allowed to leave I had to attend a meeting with what I can only describe as the village Girga and explain why we were leaving after just one night and not visiting the Wakan.

At the border we were shown a RUPOS taken from an A4 folder full of them. Printed on it in English was the price of U$100. The border guard told us that another U$100 (U$160 for US citizens) was also payable at the border. So that's U$100 for a visa + U$200 for your vehicle + U$50 (I believe) for a Wakan tourist permit to be purchased in Eskashim. Prices that come as quite a shock after Uzbekistan and Tajikistan!

I hope this will prevent anyone else from experiencing the same.

This is by far the diluted version of events. I'll post the full story in my next blog update as will Griffdog.
__________________
ShortWayRound - OTR RTW since 2006

Photo Galleries

ShortWayRound/Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10 Jun 2013
Oo-SEB-oO's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canary Islands
Posts: 291
thank you for this, please update about your Afghan adventure, as we are also on our way to there.... We're still 2 months out, but it's the first thing I've ever heard that you need to pay to enter with your vehicle... we're two on two bikes, so 600usd is not planned in our budget...

On the other side, can you please inform if it is doable (safe...) to go from there to Kunduz or even to Mazar-i-Sharif over the road so we can enter TJ or UZ from there? Can't find any info and the latest I had was from a few months ago from the embassy in Brussels, so far away from there to be reliable...
__________________
Find us on Facebook or have a look at our website on wanderingsouls.be.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11 Jun 2013
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: UK but currently on the road RTW
Posts: 206
Safety

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oo-SEB-oO View Post
thank you for this, please update about your Afghan adventure, as we are also on our way to there.... We're still 2 months out, but it's the first thing I've ever heard that you need to pay to enter with your vehicle... we're two on two bikes, so 600usd is not planned in our budget...

On the other side, can you please inform if it is doable (safe...) to go from there to Kunduz or even to Mazar-i-Sharif over the road so we can enter TJ or UZ from there? Can't find any info and the latest I had was from a few months ago from the embassy in Brussels, so far away from there to be reliable...
It is my understanding that ONLY the Wakan Valley is safe. The Taliban are now in Badakshan Province (same province as the Wakan) and there has recently been fighting in Faizabad. That's 150km by road from Eskashim or 12 hours on foot via the direct route (so we were told in Eskashim).


The RUPOS we were shown was for a car so its worth asking at the consulate what the price is for a motorcycle. Maybe its cheaper? Just ask before you shell out for a visa!
__________________
ShortWayRound - OTR RTW since 2006

Photo Galleries

ShortWayRound/Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11 Jun 2013
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
Posts: 1,232
guessed it was in that wee finger bit of Afghanistan that gets in the way going from Taz to Pakistan but had to look it up on google maps. That's pretty far out man!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11 Jun 2013
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bristol UK
Posts: 454
Finally online in Bishkek.

It was indeed a disappointment as we will likely never return here again with our own vehicle. You can get your Visa's without LOI at the embassy in Khorog which is also where you can get your Rupos Document. Make sure you get it here. A Kiwi friend got his a day after I text him and it cost him $200.

Gutted. Onwards and upwards to Siberia!

G
__________________
Land Rover D90
www.Siroccoverland.com | Follow us on Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11 Jun 2013
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bristol UK
Posts: 454
Attached pic of the 'Rupos' (Rubos?) along with one of the Hindu Kush for your enjoyment.
Attached Thumbnails
Afghanistan Vehicle entry permit - WARNING-13-06-01_0272lr.jpg  

Afghanistan Vehicle entry permit - WARNING-13-06-01_0267lr.jpg  

__________________
Land Rover D90
www.Siroccoverland.com | Follow us on Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12 Jun 2013
Oo-SEB-oO's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canary Islands
Posts: 291
Thx for the info. In the meantime I got confirmation from my afghan connection that it is indeed necessary if you want to travel on your own vehicle, he also said it was 100usd per vehicle but he doesn't know about motorcycles, so we will indeed ask before applying/paying everything... ;-)
Would be a bummer not to do it, but then it's not exactly cheap for just a few days riding...
__________________
Find us on Facebook or have a look at our website on wanderingsouls.be.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 13 Jun 2013
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bristol UK
Posts: 454
Short update: not only does the Rupos cost $200 from the consulate but you also need to pay an additional $100 custom duty fee at the border. This has been confirmed.

Below is a copy of Jon's Rupos which may make translation easier for UK based vehicles.

G
Attached Thumbnails
Afghanistan Vehicle entry permit - WARNING-photo-2-.jpg  

__________________
Land Rover D90
www.Siroccoverland.com | Follow us on Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 14 Jun 2013
Oo-SEB-oO's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canary Islands
Posts: 291
Djeeee... they don't want anybody coming in or what???
I am seriously reconsidering this... not willing to pay 600€ for just a week with our two bikes in the Wakhan...
__________________
Find us on Facebook or have a look at our website on wanderingsouls.be.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 22 Jun 2013
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 137
Damn unlucky!!

a few of these Polish guys did this a couple of years ago, looks AMAZING!! Afghanistan ride. How to enter, survive and return in one piece... - Page 18 - ADVrider

By the way, I have been researching a lot to see if I can find a route through Afghanistan from Tajikistan to Pakistan, everywhere I have looked they have said there is no way you can get through to Pakistan, however I have heard some news about a road being built from Dushanbe to Pakistan. Does anyone know any further information???

I intend to go this route in 2017 mid-way through a world trip, hopefully there is a way through by then!!! If you guys have any more information about this pass please let me know
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 22 Jun 2013
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 4,343
The roads are in place, now

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanted View Post
I have been researching a lot
Try the southern Asia forum:-
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/southern-asia/
even though Afghanistan lies in central Asia.


to the HUBB by the way.
__________________
Dave
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 26 Jun 2013
Banned
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Cracow, Poland
Posts: 202
You can bribe them on the border.
I never paid more than 100 USD per bike. If I paid in consulate for Road Pass I refused to pay on the border. It is faster to bribe them than wait for Road Pass.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 26 Jun 2013
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: UK but currently on the road RTW
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambor View Post
You can bribe them on the border.
I never paid more than 100 USD per bike. If I paid in consulate for Road Pass I refused to pay on the border. It is faster to bribe them than wait for Road Pass.
There was no bribing going on. Absolutely no way. We tried everything (and would have paid a bribe) but they weren't having any of it. We spent the whole afternoon there and believe me, if bribery had been an option it would have come up in conversation; but it didn't. I think our "Isn't there anything we can do" pleading would have led to a bribe being suggested were it an option but it wasn't.
The U$100 payable at the border may well have been a bribe but without the permit from Khorog there was no way we were going to be allowed in.

Maybe times have changed since your last visit.
__________________
ShortWayRound - OTR RTW since 2006

Photo Galleries

ShortWayRound/Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 28 Jun 2013
Oo-SEB-oO's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canary Islands
Posts: 291
This is still really bad news, this means that you pay 300USD just to enter the country with the bike, + 80USD for the Visa + 50USD for the Wakhan permit for just a week driving in the Wakhan... That's way to expensive!

I've never bribed anywhere in the world, but for this I would just to reduce costs, but if you're saying it's impossible... I'm not sure if I can or am willing to pay that mush money just to see the Wakhan on a bike... :confused1:
__________________
Find us on Facebook or have a look at our website on wanderingsouls.be.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10 Sep 2013
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 602
It's a Route Pass!

I was refused one in Islamabad in 2009, so just went ahead without. I made it into the country at three separate borders without one. I guess the guys at Ishkashim are strict because they see quite a few foreign vehicles. At least it seems you can get one. $100 is not much in the scheme of things, when you look back at it.

Daniel
__________________
4.5 years around Eurasia in a Toyota Hilux|http://eurasiaoverland.wordpress.com/
Pictures Here|https://picasaweb.google.com/113619413612674951960
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Provisions for driving in China. - facts. uk_vette West and South Asia 2 24 Jul 2014 07:58
Argentina vehicle permit - info Phil Flanagan SOUTH AMERICA 3 20 May 2014 00:50
Thailand, extending vehicle entry permit bokad West and South Asia 16 20 Mar 2013 14:32
Argentina vehicle permit - info Phil Flanagan Trip Paperwork 0 14 Mar 2013 18:07

 
 

Announcements

Thinking about traveling? Not sure about the whole thing? Watch the HU Achievable Dream Video Trailers and then get ALL the information you need to get inspired and learn how to travel anywhere in the world!

Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's the list of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now
, and add your information if we didn't find you.

Next HU Eventscalendar

HU Event and other updates on the HUBB Forum "Traveller's Advisories" thread.
ALL Dates subject to change.

2024:

Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!

Questions about an event? Ask here

HUBBUK: info

See all event details

 
World's most listened to Adventure Motorbike Show!
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)



Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.

Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.

Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!


 

What others say about HU...

"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia

"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK

"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia

"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada

"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa

"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia

"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany

Lots more comments here!



Five books by Graham Field!

Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook

"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:23.