I just visited the northern/kurdish part of Iraq, rode from Turkey to the Iran border & back.
Fabulous place, & wonderful people!
The roads are 'ok' (Im on an old Harley with a rigid frame)
a modern bike would be no problem.
Watch out for the unmarked speedbumps in every town, & once you get outside the bigger cities, theres no hotels. (and none of the hotels are very cheap) But, seems like you can camp about anywhere.
people were very friendly & helpful everywhere.
there were military checkpoints, but was never a hassle, usually they waved me on past, if they did stop me, it was more out of curiosity.
I never once felt threatened.
no visa required, (Im from USA) and no cost to bring the bike in.
I really enjoyed it, & look forward to returning.
Just thought I'd share the info, in case anyone else wants to visit