Still at the setting up stage so very provisional list...NOT in any order or preference but here goes:-
Heavy duty:- drive train - prop shafts, diffs, differentials not needed with ARB lockers rear useful ,, suspension with air assistance possibly dual springs ala 130, diff breathers, good idea
Front and rear winches and bumpers one on front sufficient
Bash plates all under, side rock runners Not req your going overland not on a rally
Long range fuel tank with jerry cans and rack long range rear with 1 front tank plus a couple of cans for use on long sections otherwise empty
Water tank with filters and extended hose with pump better to have seperate water containers
Chequer plate protection as required possibly on wing tops and bonnet
Air compressor (tied in with snorkel to keep crap out) and tools, snorkel, high exhaust standard is OK
Waterproofed engine (as far as is reasonably possible) no swimming intended snorkel sufficient
Roll cage - external? Overkill really dont rush about
Window grills and safety film grills yes dont leave temptation in sight
Safety door locks, Lockable cubby, roof console with additional instrumentation door locks hidden safe try and use KISS principle
Additional lights - LED inside and working lights, spots fogs etc
Battery management system simple manual switch more reliable
Fuel/battery cut off (hidden) Yes
Bull bar inc winch
Air conditioning(pondering this one for the other half) Helps you stay fresh and eases fatigue but expensive standard early system poor performer
HD roof rack with tent make sure roof rack has long feet in gutter
Storage boxes, cases, trays
Cooker, toilet (and tent?) stool type adequate(convenient) + spade
Hi lift jack and mount, bull bag (air jack bag) Hi lift heavy and rarely needed decent hydraulic bottle jack/s better bull bag limited use
Sound system tied in with GPS/laptop/GPS tracker etc. and phones (his and hers)
Steering guard Yes
Spare tyre mount x 2 Yes plus tubes
Split rims or 'Wolf' style rims. Why? run tubeless and carry kit ..
Twin rear shocks Same at front and just use standard shocks
Tow straps, shackles, tyre levers, wheel brace, radiator plugs, Haynes Manual(!) puncture repair kit/gel/foam,waste of time axe/hatchet, spade, socket sets etc
Inverter/generator Inverter yes
Side awning(s) Yes
Sun roof/escape hatch Why?
In-built cameras - as per reversing but at front as well
CB radio - if legal who you going to talk to ?
Better seats, harnesses
2" lift and modified drive train to suit stay at standard height lift not needed causes more problems than it solves
RAM mounts for camera, laptop etc
Light/radiator guards done by bull bar chaff guard useful
Rear cargo grill yes to prevent load moving forward
Braided hoses all round
Twin Kenlowe fans original perefectly adequate
HD water pump not needed
Additional screen washer
HD brakes - as it will be heavy just take spare pads
Overdrive - do they still make them? Had one on a 73 Series 2A Station Wagon, excellent not needed on defender
Air horns, load liners, Halogen lights, Waxoyl/Dinatrol, locking wheel nuts,
Oil cooler and gearbox fins use synthetic oil eg redline
Revised dashboard/console for switches/instrumentation etc KISS again
Hi aerial with flag for dunes (standard warning out here in Oman)
Make sure all cooling system is in 1st class condition
Load lightness as much as possible HTSH
Thanks chaps for all the advice!
Now - as ever - plans changed, not going from Oman but probably from Libya!
Will be posted back to Libya - having been evacuated in Feb 2010 - and might have to start from there. Not even sure if it is possible at present with the local area problems but will find out more when I get there.
Could be - what's the word...- interesting?!
Firstly, sack the trailer off.
Secondly, ditch some of the weight.
3000kg isn't bad, but it is far from good.
In the 3000kg, what weight is Land Rover, and what weight is "extra stuff"
Youve done some great research, which will always be beneficial to you.
the Answer is buy a small 4x4 trailer in SA, and go with a roof top tent on the car getting there.
As youre still figuring out the car, I suggest the Station wagon the side access doors being really useful. 300tdi, because its the most suited... but make sure its fully serviced and has a history, recent replacements. A new car is likely to not be sucha good idea and / or meet budget
Sounds like youre going to use it as a main vehicle when you get to SA in which case be wary of modding it to the point where its impractical to use when you get there as an everyday vehicle.
My pointers are that a Trailer is excellent in SA, as long as youre not going on any trails. If youre going to bring it into Kenya from the North, its basically not going to work at all.
I know I have had my trailer overtake me twice, once with my ball hitch attached to it, and once without. A trailer is useful, to put a roof top tent on and to store a few very light weight bits and bobs, as someone else says, great for leaving as a camp whilst in a safaris park so you can drive off and come back each night.
>Heavy duty battery. (possibly twin batteries split charged, but I've never seen the need)
> if for whatever reason you are really draining batteries rather get one uprated amp alternator than two. You only need two alternators if it is running something else like a Unipower welder / generator
>Hi Lift Jack, with purpose built jacking points all round the car. Standard Defender bull bar and side is not suitable for jacking it up. Mount it securely, and preferably on the front bumper (move weight forward.)
>Jackable side sills
>Internal / External roll cage which you can mount the Roof top tent onto as well as too much weight up high!
>Twin shocks all around
>Upgrade the suspension system with HD Springs, do it properly, not just a 2 inch lift, get springs that are harder to compress rather than giving more lift.
>Discovery UJ's or at least 1 spare UJ the Disco rubber ones are lighter and are great.
>Two spare wheels, one on bonnet, get as much weight up front as you can, one off rear swing away gate (aids lockable security) make sure you have a third spare tyre if not putting 2 spares in the back. (although wolf style side tyre mount has many benefits)
>Make sure that you know how to, and can change a tyre, I am not convinced that split rims are a good idea given the likely hood of you needing to repeatedly change tyres. By the end of my 2nd Nairobi to Cape town trip, I could switch tyres on the rim in under an hour. I have awesome experience with tubeless tyres, but always carry spare tubes as well. still wouldnt use split rims
>Built in spare fuel tank under front seats.
>Jerry cans red for diesel and blue for water, take more than you need, I make sure that I have 40litres of jerry can diesel, 40 litre diesel under seat spare and 60 litres of water. then spare oil, 2x10 litres and spare hydraulic fluid - thats 300Kgs just of dead weight liquid.
>Improve the cooling system.
Landrovers are built for the UK, where its not traditionally very warm, nor is the altitude anything to write home about. The route you're going on, will challenge the Turbo diesel engines to the max, low speed, high torque, high revs.
Kenlowe fans or similar will help, but improving the intercooler and oil cooling system is a better idea. To help cool the engine, pop the bonnet when resting, or running high revs at low speed.
>I would suggest bonnet latches too, these prevent the bonnet from rattling around too much on hard hits
>Panga and Spade. Absolute must.
>Sound system, a waste of time 95% of the time.
>Heavy duty tyre spanner, and a replacement
>If necessary inverter for general charging (12v - 240v)
>Solar panels to top up the Battery. Dont need much, its a contingency only
>Roof hatch into the rear of the roof top tent is surprisingly useful. WHY? so you can get from the tent into the car without getting onto the ground when a lion is sleeping around / under your car.
>Canvas seat covers, or anything similar.
>Side awning really makes a small difference.
I am a fan of the SAFA roof top tents, they started it and have every option covered, I've used Ezi Awn and Hannibal, but the biggest ones are the coolest. You dont need one, its lighter to just put a full length plywood on the roof section roll cage and then pitch a normal tent up there. But the speed of putting up a roof top tent cant be beaten when youre exhausted and just want protection.
Have the Roof top tent fold forward over the bonnet onto the front bull bar, so you can drive around for better positioning without taking it down.
>You can make a full length bed arrangement out the back by folding forward the rear seats, and having slats that run the width of the Landy, or a Hammock type arrangement, but though enhanced safety, it gets really hot
>If its really really hot a hammock tent cannot be beaten for a cool nights / Afternoons sleep
>12v Fridge, I favour Minus 40, because they retain their temperature over Engels, but the 40 litre engel is legendary, and probably the best bet given its physical size. learn to use it efficiently.
>Diff locks - if you get one fitted, take a spare (the short one) half shaft
>Snatch (dynamic) rope and pulling points more useful than a winch
>2x 70m + of nylon braid rope. uses range from extending the length of a winch cable - hanging showers from trees every use you can ever imagine, and a million you can't. try to get a rope that doesnt stretch
>Winch Personally I choose the hydraulic ones, and have used everything from a manual one (necessary evil) to tir-for's to a block and tackle system to electric winches. (I know Hydraulic ones dont work unless the engine is running, or useless in a flooded engine situation)
4000lbs is more than suitable for overlanding what you will need to use it for, the 8000lbs winches are great for competition use, but not worth the extra weight for overlanding alone. I would rather have a 2500lbs winch than an 8000 one, given the weight on the bumper.
>Pulley block and bumper mounted D ring to double up the capacity.
>If you are going into a desert with a winch, a suitable sand orientated ground anchor is a must, otherwise youre in for a bad wake up call.
>12v Strip lights with 10 meters cable, and a red filter
>Decent 12v spot light with enough cable that you can cover all the way around your vehicle. Rechargeable are more hassle than their weight is worth, and reliability is shaky at best (after 1000kms of african roads)
>Gas cylinders preferably mounted externally.
>Anything mounted externally should be lockable, lots of padlocks one key system. This is a stalling tactic rather than ultimate preventative, to prevent opportunistic theft.
>The window cages are useful, again they prevent hands liberating you of things whilst you are not looking, but ultimately will not help you whilst you are away from the vehicle.
>Fuel transfer / cut off switch thats hidden is not great particularly if you forget, and is just another thing to go wrong. Same with electrical cut off switches.
It all boils down to how much you want to modify an existing vehicle into a dedicated overlander, rather than having a normal car at the end of it.
Additional fuel tanks jackable sills, bull bar, and roof rack / roll cage about the most that you can do without starting to loose value on the car.
> if you're car jacked and then it breaks down 100m away from you, and you were lucky enough to get out safe and (stranded) sound, its not going to end well, rather the bad people are as far away from you as possible with all your stuff.
>Not essential, but built in rear water tank is really useful, in my experience I used water drums more than the tank, but on a few occasions I diddnt get water where I had expected to, and the 40litres under the rear load bed was a life saver. So use this as a reserve rather than your budgeted water supply
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