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  #1  
Old 20 Apr 2010
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Range Rover Overlander

Hi everyone

Just need a bit of advice, have looked at 110s etc but I have a perfectly good Range Rover Classic with a 200tdi in the garage that has been slightly modified, so I am looking at the validity of further speccing it foroverlanding instead of buying a 110.

Any cons that you guys can think of with regard to using an RRC?

Many thanks

Rob

Last edited by ninebean; 20 Apr 2010 at 23:02.
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  #2  
Old 20 Apr 2010
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technically the classic coil sprung rangey is very similar to the early discovery, and the 110 is a very close cousin.
other than lack of an internal cabin that can be slept in, plenty of people have used rangerovers. rust is their biggest problem
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  #3  
Old 21 Apr 2010
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I wouldn't do too much to it. Standard is good. I wend transafrica with Discovery 200Tdi. Had 225/75 tires mounted. You might want to go a bit higher, but don't over do as not to stress the transmission too much.

Slightly stiffer, but not much higher suspension might be a good idea.

And try to keep it light. You really don't need all that much. We did a 3 month trip in a lada station wagon and had all the comforts one can dream of with a total load of less than 100kg for 2 persons.
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Old 21 Apr 2010
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Definetly going with what you know has a lot going for it.
I'm sure a sleeping platform could be built into the back and the 200tdi is a lovely simple engine.
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  #5  
Old 11 Aug 2010
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hello, new to the board

Your choice is exelent, the classic shares same components with defender, disco1...so parts are plentifull and cheap in england (paddockspares, ect)

I`m currently building overland range rover classic and since the vehicle is near completition, I would like to point out some things to consider that arised during my build up.

1. rust, look underneath the carpets, deal with it sandblasting and new sheet (zink plaled, not standard!) it is not worth of building on the rusty base.

2.roof rack, the range roof pilars are really weak, consider roll cage or similar support

3.transmission bearings, LT77 has an bearing problem that is cheap to fix (ashcroft transmission DIY kits) if you follow these:

Rebuild of the LT77 Gearbox - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

4. lift kits, dont go above 2" lots of more problems and money spending that needed, Paddock has lift kit with springs and good shocks under 200£

5. arrange sleeping padform to the rear, the size allows nice one! place watertanks and batteries underneath the sleeping platform. (keep the havy things as low as possible)

classic is exelent to drive, have had several toyotas and got really pissed about the prices of the spares, range can be build on the fraction of the cost....as far as the reliabilety goes I would not thinks toyota as superior...older vehicles are all worn, and the carnet de passage cost force us to keep vehicle price low.

here is a good series about range classic thought amazon all the way to the pacific, enjoy!

YouTube - ‪Top Gear Bolivia special challenge 2009 part 1 HD‬‎
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  #6  
Old 30 Aug 2010
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I'm half way through a UK-SA trip in a 30 year old Rangie and can absolutely recommend them. mine's a little bit different (check out my website Range Rover expedition across Africa - UK to South Africa) but pop a roof tent on one and you're away.
The big plus over a Defender is the comfort in the cabin - much wider than a defender, more legroom and a bit more scope for making small storage cubbies here and there. I have also found that it is cooler on the move as the better insulated shell stops your legs getting burnt by the transmission tunnel and no hot jets of air up your trouser leg!

The only downside is the rear springs are same as on a 90 rather than the wider 110 type, but OME do some good uprated springs that cope just as well.

There are LOADS of mint rust free early 2 door classics knocking about in Kenya, wish I could take a few back with me
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  #7  
Old 30 Aug 2010
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hi Rob,
As has been said previously the rrc is a very good vehicle especially with the tdi keep it close to standard as you can and avoid cheap parts as you will get what you pay for.
The only area to consider is the amount of glass in it, easily solved with tints.

btw the roof gutters are strong enough for a roof rack no need for a roll cage they just take up space.

regards

Gren
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  #8  
Old 3 Sep 2010
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yes, RRC is an excelent choise for oveland travel, electrics seem to work better with classics too

after extensive research to the problems that land rovers have had on their travels I conclude following:

the workings in a car are quite the same that defender, some have used this and upgraded their axles with defender 24 spline versions....worth while modification if you end up being loaded and are using larger tires in diameter...

(in off road use, have not heard that anyone would have broken axles with standard size tires...the larger tires are killer for 10 spline axles if driving is not carefull)

the other thing, look for the 1:41 transferbox gear change (LT230 from defender) makes huge difference if you are loaded with V8 engine, or pulling hevy loads.

as far as the suspension goes, get the douple shock system with reinforced front pilars, front and rear... I would opt either heavy duty suspension or 2" lift kit (get the stainless longer brake lines at the same time)

In my car I have rear with douple shocks, the rear ones are copy of the front ones as mirros image, with extra welded mounts on the back of the axle (see how its done in older 2 door RRC:s)

as far as the carrying stuff goes, look into web for Zarges A10 cases from germany, dust proof, alu cases...i think you get the idea quick...

Wheels, look for the cheap defender steel wheels, no need for the expesive modifications, and now using wider tires are no problem with rubbing.

please note that the only key problem with range rover classic is the size, move the light stuff into zarges boxes on the roof, built flat sleeping level on the back, put aux batterries ect stuff under that platform, set up kitchen on the back such that tail gate works as an table...

last, I would recommend the roll bar, or safety cage, I have cut one RRC in pieces and A, B and C pilar construction is very weak, if the car rolls, the roof will be flatten completely, especially with readily loaded roofrack and stressed pilars...be safe!

ps. I have calculated that my car with complete rebuilt, will cost total of 6000-7000e when ready to go...of course I can do everything by my self...
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  #9  
Old 4 Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eightpot View Post
I'm half way through a UK-SA trip in a 30 year old Rangie and can absolutely recommend them. mine's a little bit different (check out my website Range Rover expedition across Africa - UK to South Africa) but pop a roof tent on one and you're away.
The big plus over a Defender is the comfort in the cabin - much wider than a defender, more legroom and a bit more scope for making small storage cubbies here and there. I have also found that it is cooler on the move as the better insulated shell stops your legs getting burnt by the transmission tunnel and no hot jets of air up your trouser leg!

The only downside is the rear springs are same as on a 90 rather than the wider 110 type, but OME do some good uprated springs that cope just as well.

There are LOADS of mint rust free early 2 door classics knocking about in Kenya, wish I could take a few back with me
Nice site and pics, my daughter and I enjoyed the pics of things being eaten!
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  #10  
Old 5 Oct 2010
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eightpot
how the axles has been holding on? are you running on 10 spline or defender 24 spline versions?

Is the gearbox 5 speed or 4 speed?

What kind of milage you are averaging, and are you carrying extrafuel?

Reasons for asking, getting my own range rover classic ready...and starting the trip planning...
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  #11  
Old 1 Nov 2010
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Hi - just using standard 10 splines and the original 4speed LT95 gearbox. Both have been faultless apart from a bit of oil transfer from transfer to main box in the LT95 through a leaky seal, but thats a minor niggle.

Haven't needed to get a bigger tank or use jerries - the standard 18 gallon tank has been more than ample - we do have a couple of jerries so we can stock up on cheap fuel from time to time or have filled them once or twice when we've not been sure on availability, but frankly could have left them at home.
Getting a steady 27mpg, so get 450ish miles per tank. I put an Isuzu 2.8 diesel in which has been wonderful - the Frontera version is real pokey and more grunty than the LR TDi and does well on fuel, but I'd have been happy if a LR engine had already been in there.

let me know if I can help with any practical info - have fun
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  #12  
Old 6 Jan 2011
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hello!

noticed that you had so welding done on the road, in suspension??

what was the prob? reason for asking...so I can do the reinforcement before my departure...

second question, have you noced any leaking seals from the axles ect. ??

what kind off spare parts collection are you carrying? and have you had any other repairs needed to be taken care of on the road?
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  #13  
Old 22 Jan 2011
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During my trans-Africa trip, we travelled with a couple in a RRC.
It had a 200tdi engine and a long range fuel tank. The rest of the vehicle was standard. The rooftent was forward mounted.

The long range fuel tank proved to be hassle as it was slung very low at the back of the vehicle. The smallest hump in the road would cause the RRC to grind to a holt.

The comfort levels in the RRC compared to my 110 were far superior.

Here are a few pics...





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  #14  
Old 30 Jan 2011
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Thanks for the reply,

Looking at the pics RRC seems loaded! the tank seems to hang down quite a bit!

Can you remember any other probs with the old (RRC) car?

After looking the web page, I was delighted to see nice exel sheet that covers the equipmets and materials that you needed on the trip, also the "broke down" list with technical woes was helpful.

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