That old Defender, Discovery, Rnage Rover prep list for long distange trevel
-head gasket check
get 1 spare gasket + top end seal kit + deg. tool
-check injection pump timing by speacialist
this can save on gas big time
-check condition of turbo by specialist hint, check oil in the cooler
-new water pump and visco these fail in hot, get spares of both
-new fuel lift pump get one as spare, get those 8mm beads for seals
-check radiator+hoses renew vibration will finish of old one, get spare hoses
-fit serviced starter motor & alternator spare alternator
-new clutch plate + bearing get spares of both
-new both cylinders for clutch get both also as spares, slave cylinders fail…
-new timing belt + rollers get belt as spare
-new fan belts get all spare belts
-fit tracktor dual fuel filter and sedimentor kit…dirt cheap filters and possibility of monitor fuel quality…
-check condition of crankshaft key hole, have it fixed if problems, remember, the bolt has to torque at 330Nm with Loctite!!!!
as an rule, service engine around, and then take to the specialist, for turbo and pump timing…
oh, and get the tools needed for the timing belt change, as well the cylinder head gasket change… easy in Europe…not so in africa…
check if it is noisy with gears, service or replace LT77+230 are know to fail with splines of output shaft, identified by the loud clunk when engaging firs gear. fix this before heading out!!!!
use best oils availeable, synthetic oils eg. 75-140 succesfully used for years, Redline, Castrol…the transmission are the hardest working part in the car during the trip. use XR-1 or power up additive in oil.
I have temp sender in transmission filter plug, the power up additive dropped oil temp in towing from 70-85C to 45-55C!!!! talk about friction reduction!!!
good oils must GL-5, check any leaks and fix them with new seals. Check the condition of the splines of the axles, parts are cheap to replace so no reason to take risks.
Check hubs oils, use one shot or thick mineral oil 85-140, to avoid leaks. (or just replace those pesky seals…only to notice mo nth or so later that they leak again)
Check wheel bearings and lubricate in late model axles with best possible synt. Vaseline…much cheaper than bearing problems on the road…early axles, there are no extra seals…wheel bearing problems rare…
replace all probshaft universal joints, front and rear…Hardy Spicer, or GNK is the ones that you want. tak spares x2
replace all steering ball joints, fit HD steering shafts, too easy to bent the orginals, take both handed spares (1+1)
Check and replace if necessary the steering box, if it leaks. Many RRC owners have found that Disco 1 box is the same but is much less prone to leaks that range rover box…take spare seal kit for that bush mechanic to have an workout ;-)
Fitt diff guards…self explatory…
note: rover 10 spline axle good up to 235/85-16 or 7.50-16 tyres, have been successfully used for overlanding with moderate left foot. No reason to upgrade to 24 spline, unless big tyres or lockers in the axles….lockers and better axles easily cost +600-1000e per axle so consider carefully since most roads are tarmac or so….money can be better spend on the roof tent or engel coolbox…
max. 2” lift, compensate for the increased load, don’t lift the vehicle…in most overlanding cases standard height is preferable, since roof rack raises the car (and the center of gravity)
use quality springs, and absorbers, take spare absorbers with you or fit dual dampers in each corner
(damper failures common with bad road on the rover, usually associated with high outside temp, high speed on bad roads and…and too heavy left foot… )
look into standard size, load rating 1200-1400kg/tyre or C-rating. demand for heavy sidewall and robust tyre desing. in most cases AT-tyres preferable, M/T in most cases noisy an can war out faster
BFgoodrich, General Grabber, Michelin, Cooper…don’t save in here.
take ne w spare at the same time, consider 2nd spare.
look into load rating, standart rover steel wheels are cheap and exelent (and cheap)
Full service, new fluid and pads….take spare pads.
can be self built, prefer over steel 25x25mm tubes, support the weight to the whole length of gutters. fit places for lights and roof tent…and most importantly, keep it as light as possible!!!!
Mine is self built and very simple, weight some 44 Kg fittet… do not under estimate weight of the steel!!!
fit second locking mechanism in all the doors, fir curtains/grille on the back windows…fir second battery isolated from the main battery via HD switch, fir voltmeter, ammeter and second engine temp monitor…think about locking mechanism for the steering wheels/pedals or gear shifts…make it thief as difficult as possible to just grab and run something. Put your stuff in aluminium or plastic locable boxes inside of the vehicle to keep everything in order, secure these well to the floor. fit HID/Xenon lights to the car, budged oriented travelers get foglight kit (Hella 500 excellent) and fit different bulbs in…the best setup that I have ever had in my car….fog lights have narrow and wide beam, perfect around corners, and don’t shine the light everywhere as driving light with almost clear lenses…. (excellent as roof lights)
these have been found to be good products
-old german military Zarges cases
-engel Fridge, MR 040F much cheaper than MT-45 same capacity, compressor but sturdier construction!!!
-Hella 500 fog lights with self fit 35 HID/xenon kit
-Paddock Spares for spare and other parts
-Fedima F-power tyres 215/85-16, excelent remoulds!!! these use Michelin cores
-Hannibal roof top tent, 1.4m deluxe, perfect size for 2 persons, and really well made product!!!
hope this helps to other who are building their cars, hopefully heading out in few days...