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-   -   KLE500 interesting fault (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/kawasaki-tech/kle500-interesting-fault-23730)

muthaf9cka 19 Oct 2006 13:58

KLE500 interesting fault
 
I recently took my lovely KLE500 in for it's 4000 miles service (the clock said 5,780, but who's counting). After much drinking of capuccino's along Clapham high street, I returned to pick the bike up. No significant problems, but keep an eye on the front tyre tread (Avon Distanzias, 4000 miles old). As I pulled away, the bike started to struggle and eventually died on me. I restarted it and the same thing happened again. Out of petrol already I thought? Interesting... I virtually dragged the bike to the nearest garage and filled the tank up. It still had plenty in there. Now I was getting suspicious. I pulled away only for the problem to reoccur. Rather than pull it to pieces at the side of the road, I pushed it back to the dealership. At first they didn't believe me as the bike ticked over fine, so I insisted they took it for a run. 30 minutes later, I sighted the technician pushing it back.

Naturally, they looked perplexed, but offered to fix the fault and loan me a ER6n until mine was ready. Two weeks later, and they eventually had it fixed. After much headscratching, cleaning of carbs, fuel taps and airboxes and a long call to Kawasaki they gave me my bike back. All they did was change the fuel. Apparently, the fuel that was in the tank wouldn't ignite properly and was spitting back out through the airbox. Not something I have heard of before, but maybe the tank had become contaminated at some point.

Anyway, it's nice to have my bike back and get rid of that bloody ER6n. Nice road bike, but in southeast london, we don't have many of what you'd call roads...

Kumuya 25 Oct 2006 07:08

:eek3: What fuel you use? :scared: I never heard about this problem!!!!!!

And I guessed that only in Romania you get fuel with water or other nasty things! But never had this problem ... only fuel filter changed at every 200-300 km.

But good posting!!! I will have in mind this problem when I will change fuel filter and still get that problem.

muthaf9cka 25 Oct 2006 17:40

In all honesty, I don't really believe there was anything wrong with the actual petrol as it came out of the pump. I've used everything from 88 octane in Germany to 97 octane around London and not had a problem. The only thing I can think of is that they got some air filter oil or carb cleaner into the tank somehow or got water into the tank. Dealerships always try and lump the blame onto you, but other than leaving it out in the rain and not cleaning it, the bike gets very well looked after. In the last 6,000 miles, it's had three oil changes, one new set of tires and front pads. For a dual sport bike, that's pampering.

Kumuya 26 Oct 2006 08:09

:eek3: what!?!?! It looks like too much changes and "face lifts" I hadn't got so much things to change .... at 5000 Km oil change and brake pads at 5000-7000 km or more, and tyres!?!!? I was forced to change them because of the accident on front and on rear I cut it on a train crossing .... but I use enduro tyres so I don't have to wory if I wear them too much.

Good luck and safe trips!!!

muthaf9cka 26 Oct 2006 17:30

The last 6,000 miles are also the first 6,000 miles; it's a new bike.

oldbmw 26 Oct 2006 20:32

If it was 'bad fuel' that wouldn't let you ride away from the garage, how did you get there ?

I guess i am a bit too jaundiced for my own good

marlin.45 27 Oct 2006 13:57

They didn't accidentally leave off the vac pipe on the fuel tap after lifting the tank off did they? :thumbup1:

muthaf9cka 27 Oct 2006 15:30

Interesting thought, but I don't think so. It would run when you revved the nuts off of it, but not at all in the middle. My real guess is that they somehow got water or carb cleaner into the fuel tank or line and that was causing the problem. It was definitely OK when I rode it in there and it was definitely not OK when I rode it out.

marlin.45 30 Oct 2006 13:31

The quality of technicians that we have in the UK :( ?

I have taken my bikes to two different places in the past and each time they have overfilled the oil or bu**ered something up. I now only have one small one-man-band operation I will use or I do it all myself :thumbup1:

At least it is sorted now mate?

Paul :scooter:

oldbmw 30 Oct 2006 19:50

It is worth buying a good manual, and the necessary tools to do routine maintenance yourself.. buy good quality tools singly as you need them. this toolkit will grow so you will soon be able to do most of what you ever need.
note, as a long term observer I have seen bikes or cars suffer more from over enthusiastic maintenance than from neglect. As a timed maintenance (by time or miles) change the oil and filters regularly. At this time inspect the brake pads brake lines and cables. Also every 1000 miles or so inspect carefully your tyres and chain tension. Oil pivot points and check any cables. Keep chain clean, oil as needed to keep from getting dry ( except in very sandy conditions). Do the rest as it becomes necessary.. Important. keep an accurate record of your mpg. when this starts changing find out why and fix it. There is no point in changing a spark plug at a fixed time, but when it gets near the end of its life your mpg will drop, and starting will get difficult. Spark plugs can last fron zero to 35000 miles... there is no telling.

muthaf9cka 31 Oct 2006 10:48

Well, it seems to be running fine now (fingers crossed).

I didn't really want to take it in for a service (i'd have been much happier doing it myself), but I can't afford to loose too much money on this bike from not having a full service history. Oh the delicious sweet irony. I might stop taking it to a dealership and find someone small but reliable. Any recommendations?

oldbmw 31 Oct 2006 20:09

ASk around for someone reliable.. or maybe visit the Ace Cafe and ask there ??

Pleco 8 Nov 2006 11:33

KLE problem
 
Hello there Mutha.

We have started a new thread for these technical issues, as I could see a need for this.

I currently have exactly the same problem. The bike runs about 95% fine if you rev it and run through the gears. The moment you try and cruise it falters, and some times even dies. I cleaned out the tank, so it is not dirty fuel. I hope you have found the problem and a fix, as I am currently without transport down here.:helpsmilie:

lecap 8 Nov 2006 12:54

Hey, pleco, I have a very nice DR 650 SE for sale. And it runs :-)

muthaf9cka 8 Nov 2006 15:34

I had a problem on a previous bike (not a KLE, but a 125 single), where the jets were not sliding down into the carb causing the engine to flood. This was pretty much terminal on a single, but I imagine on a twin carbbed engine it would cause a more intermittent fault. On the single it was characterised by running, albeit badly lumpy (I dragged the clutch all the way home), on full revs and ticking over fine, but the second I went from tickover to slightly on, it would just stall and die. Try removing the carb and checking all the jets for blockages and correct movement. It may be worth rebuilding them completely if it's causing you that much of a problem. It doesn't sound like a fuelling issue. Will it run on tickover and whereabouts roughly does the problem arise? Is it only on engine braking? Are you using the choke when you start it and will it tickover? It may also be the carb speed if it doesn't tickover. There's a knob on the side of the bottom of the carb to adjust this.

I should add that my KLE has been running fine since the fuel was changed.

Pleco 8 Nov 2006 21:22

KLE running problem
 
Hello Mutha.

My KLE has the exact same problem as you described above in #1 after you had it serviced. Funny this happened to me after I serviced the bike as well. Changed oil and filter, changed plugs and cleaned and reoiled airfilter.
Any chance you can ask the workshop what they did to get your bike running properly?

I was supplied by the bike shop with D8EA NGK plugs. Unfortunately I did not look at the numbers on the original ones. I dont know if this is a problem, as the manual specs a D9ea

Regards

Kumuya 9 Nov 2006 09:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleco
Hello Mutha.

I was supplied by the bike shop with D8EA NGK plugs. Unfortunately I did not look at the numbers on the original ones. I dont know if this is a problem, as the manual specs a D9ea

At KLE 400 is D8EA not D9EA:biggrin3: , mine were D8EA and I let them D8EA
Also you can look in a NGK catalog to see that for KLE 400 is 8EA

Pleco 9 Nov 2006 12:17

KLE plugs
 
Hello Kumuya.

I changed to 9ea, and now the bike is back to running fine. thanks for all the input and help. You can check the tech thread you started for some more details on the fix.

Are there anyone out there with another KLE 400. I would like to know, as I might have a wrong fuel mixture / timing setting, that is forcing me to use the 9ea. What are you guys running, and what are your summer temps?

regards

muthaf9cka 9 Nov 2006 13:31

Glad you got the problem fixed. The way you described it, it sounded like an ignition problem, but I didn't even think of the plugs!

Most of the experienced off-roaders will tell you you need the correct plugs and oil for the temperature range you're working in if you want a smooth running engine, regardless of catalogues. Many manuals have errors in them anyway. Does anybody yet know the correct front tyre pressure? Everyone I speak to says something different, yet the manual says 22psi.

Pleco 9 Nov 2006 13:52

Tyre pressure
 
Hello Mutha.

If you look at the weight of the bike, and the 21" wheel in front, I would think 1.8 bar (do not know psi) should be good. On gravel roads I run at 1.2, and offroad 1 bar front and back.

It all depends on the speed and available traction. Too soft at high speed, and the tyre will fold in under the rim. (no fun) Too hard with little traction and the front goes sideways without you. (No fun either)

If you look at how your tyre wears, you should see if you are running the correct pressure for daily use. If it only wears in the centre, then too hard. If it only wears on the sides, then too soft.(unless you take corners like SBK) Unfortunately you only find out about the wrong wear pattern after the tyres has worn.

Maybe Le Cap can help, as he has quite a few KLRs with the same wheel sizes.

hope that helps


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