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  #76  
Old 14 Mar 2007
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KLE extra electrical

Hello Roy.

Have a look in the manual, and see what the alternator output is in amps. Then clamp an ammeter over the battery wire while you have everything switched on and the headlights on bright. Do not start the bike. Check how much current you use. You should be able to add additional stuff safely up to 80% of the alternator output.
Remember the alternator must charge the battery as well, about 2.5 amps as well as pull all the electrics. You should have enough power to run heated grips and some extra driving lights. The smaller metal 4x4 lights should work quite well.
Send some info and pics after you have done this.

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  #77  
Old 14 Mar 2007
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Thanks for the update. I am planning on fitting crash bars. I was going to fit the lights to the these bars. When I do get it done I will post pics. We have 238 watts total so I need to work out how much is getting used and go from there.
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Last edited by AussieMasada; 16 Mar 2007 at 03:11.
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  #78  
Old 16 Mar 2007
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are '92 kle parts the same as the 2001 ones?

Hi guys,

Inspired by the postings of this forum I bought a 2001 KLE 500 in pretty bad conditions (dropped on both sides, so with some aesthetic defects, but a good engine, 25000 km on board). Now I 'm about to buy some missing/broken parts, such as clutch lever, brake pedal and hand protectors. I found a bloke sending the parts of his '92 KLE 500, I wonder whether they will fit mine. The difference between the two models is 9 of years, but as I understood KLEs did not undergo any radical upgrade during this period. Does anyone know it by chance?

regards,

Boti
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  #79  
Old 17 Mar 2007
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From what I understand, there are virtually no differences between the A version and the B version. The only differences are mostly cosmetic, such as new nose fairing and different colour schemes. The other key difference is the exhaust system. Clutch lever, brake pedal and hand guards should be the same.
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  #80  
Old 18 Mar 2007
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lowering kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyKLE View Post
Hi Ash,
You wrote that you bought lowering kit - you mean kit for rear end, front end (as I know) is lowered just by untigthning screws and lowering stem ?

You wrote that handling feels better, you mean because of hight or feeling when driving?

BR Danny

hi danny lowering kit was different dog bones and inserts from the front forks the better handling is due to the bike being lower which felt better when cornering
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  #81  
Old 25 Mar 2007
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Hi guys,

I have a big question and maybe you can help me solve the problem.

I was on a very bad road (hole near hole) around Bucharest (never mind the location, is not real important) something like a 100Km trip and I put gas on it - something like 80km/h and I managed to lose some screws and some other accessories from vibration and of course bad road. (Next time I'm afraid that I will get back home only with a wheel )

After noticing those parts are missing I noticed that my signals are not working but my signal regulator works on other bikes, fuses were checked, wires are on their places ... I really have no idea where to check

If someone has an idea ....
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  #82  
Old 26 Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kumuya View Post
I was on a very bad road (hole near hole) around Bucharest (never mind the location, is not real important) something like a 100Km trip and I put gas on it - something like 80km/h and I managed to lose some screws and some other accessories from vibration and of course bad road. (Next time I'm afraid that I will get back home only with a wheel )
My reply isn't very important either. Just wanted to say that I also ended up loosing some parts of my KLE on a road near Bucharest.

It must be an unlucky place for KLEs. Lost my sidestands an had to lean it on trees and fences for another 5000km in Turkey until I got a new one.
Photo documentation at: Picasa Web Albums - Witek - Travel Albums

KLE500 rules!

Regards,
Wicjo
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  #83  
Old 26 Mar 2007
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KLE signals

Hello Kumuya.

Nice to see u are still around. If all turn signals stopped working, you might have a loose earth wire somewhere. It is the only common point among them if your signal relay is working. If the relay is not working, check the connectors under the tank. I have had a few problems with those.

Just a tip I got from Nicki. If you take any bolts loose, add Loctite when you refit them.

I had the screws of my camera's body come out while it was wrapped in cushioning in the back box. The vibration gets worse the further you get away from the centre of the bike.

Happy travels.
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  #84  
Old 26 Mar 2007
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Just thought I'd keep you updated with the continuing saga of my KLE500.

Having changed the tyres and rear brake pad, I then took my bike in for it's 8,000 mile service. The first thing they said was that it needed a new chain and that would be 100 pounds plus 80 pounds for labour. Is that included in the service? I asked. No, they replied. I then waited for a day to get my bike back only to pick it up the next day to discover a fairly terminal fault 20 miles down the road. Basically, the engine was just dying for no apparent reason everytime I got on the gas in low gears.

Naturally, they couldn't find the fault and told me to come pick the bike up. I did and I got 1 mile down the road before it happened again. I don't know how they test ride these things, but I think it involves looking at it with a cup of tea in their hands.

After this, they lent me another bike, an Aprilia Pegaso 650 Trail, which is shit. Unfortunately, I crashed it. No major damage, but the forks are twisted and the rear brake pedal is bent and the mirror and indicators are broken, but all in all, it was my kit that came off worse and the bike is mostly cosmetic damage.

Anyway, long story short, I hope that warranty agreement covedrs damage to courtesy bikes. I'm pretty sure my insurance doesn't.

Also, that bloody warranty has been more of a curse than a blessing. The last two times I've taken my bike in for a service, I've been without it for two weeks or so after. How can you screw up a bike changing the oil and filters? Not only that, but the minor service was 150 pounds and a major was 280 pounds. Not funny.
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  #85  
Old 26 Mar 2007
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Stealers, smealers, dealers I wouldn't let any of those grease monkeys within a mans trap distance of my bike Rip off UK, you buy a bargain bike, and they try to take your pants down for servicing
Aquire some mechanical skills and do your own servicing/repairs


Trophymick
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  #86  
Old 27 Mar 2007
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Servicing

I fully agree with T/ Mick.

Use the manual, and do your own servicing / repairs. Have your chain fitted by any bike shop other than a dealership. With all things, where mechanics are involved, take a day off, and spend it in the workshop with them and your bike. Tell them you do a lot of far away travels, and you need to see how to fix these things. If they do not want you to watch, they have something to hide, and take your business elsewhere.
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  #87  
Old 27 Mar 2007
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Talking

Hey, Pleco, do you know how my pricing works?

1hour of mechanics work: R 200
You want to watch: R 400
You want to help: R 600
You have tried to fix it yourself: R 800
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  #88  
Old 27 Mar 2007
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Mechanics

My sincere apologies "Oh Great One''.

Please note to all. The above issues with mechanics does not apply to Le Cap.

If you can find a proper mechanic like himself, you may leave the bike with him. Of course they are scarcer than tanzanite.

Le Cap, the extra rates per hour will be worthwile to watch an artist.

Regards
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  #89  
Old 28 Mar 2007
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This is the response I got from Kawasaki Australia in regrds to my Wattage quirey.

Thanks for your enquiry. The official stance of Kawasaki Motors Pty. Ltd. regarding your question is that any modifications to your electrical system away from standard are not recommended. The Kawasaki KLE500A6F has been designed to operate with the electrical system fitted by the factory & by adding additional amperage draw such as accessory driving lights an adverse affect may occur to various electrical components especially to the charging system. The maximum rated output of the charging system on you model is 17amps. If however you, or an experienced technician perform an amperage draw test on your battery with the engine running & all the lights operating you would be able to deduce how many amps you have in reserve. This can then be converted into a safe working capacity for how extra many watts your standard charging system may cope with. This type of test could be performed at any authorised Kawasaki motorcycle dealer by a trained Kawasaki technician. The formula is watts = amperage x voltage. If you believe you have enough spare amperage to run an extra set of lights then it would also be advisable to fit a relay to the accessory lighting circuit to reduce the extra load to the charging system.
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  #90  
Old 28 Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trophymick View Post
Stealers, smealers, dealers I wouldn't let any of those grease monkeys within a mans trap distance of my bike Rip off UK, you buy a bargain bike, and they try to take your pants down for servicing
Aquire some mechanical skills and do your own servicing/repairs


Trophymick
Personally, I am of exactly the same opinion. However, a warranty is a warranty and as I have neither a garage nor all the correct tools, then dealer servicing it is until I win the lottery so I can buy a house with a garage in London. Also, should anything hideously expensive break, then at least Kawasaki have to pay for the repairs. Add to that the fact that I just crashed their courtesy bike...
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