The Achievable Dream 5-part series - the definitive guide on DVD for planning your motorcycle adventure. Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
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So you've done it - got inspired, planned your trip, packed your stuff and you're on the road! This section is about staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure. And crossing borders, war zones or oceans!
On the Road! is 5.5 hours of the tips and advice you need to cross borders, break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Tire Changing!Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
"It has me all fired up to go out on my own adventure!" See the trailer here!
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The left-turn part of the indicator switch started giving problems recently - it would not switch on. I decided to investigate, and ended up cleaning the switch with contact cleaner. It is now back to the expected behaviour.
Location: Caissargues, near NIMES, South of France
Originally Posted by ronepaulsen
What do u regard as good? at 120km/h I get about 21km/lt but running it flatout brings it down to 13km/lt. Granted I am still running it in but would like to know what to expect. A friend has 650 yamaha superbike and it still returns 20km/lt at speeds in excess of 200km/h (needless to say I am usually 'n bit late) I run onto reserve at 140km
here are my my gas calculations : best score : 230 km with 11.7 liters->19.65 km/l. Usually : 200 km with 12.5 liters->16km/l. My KLE is the 2005 model. I think you should try and compare with other dual sport rather than road or sport bikes. When riding fast, you move much more air !
I've just bought myself a 2007 KLE500. It's the first bike I've had for 25 years so I've been a little out of biking tech. After initially thinking I had a blown bulb on the way to the parts shop, I discovered that each beam had its own side with no state of working in unison - exactly as you describe for your bike.
Thanks for the info.
I had already looked at that webpage. They are nice and seem to be well-built.
I am waiting for the spare to arrive. There has been a truck drivers general strike here in Spain and it is taking two weeks more than expected to receive it from Italy.
I will tell you when it comes
Here it goes the description from the official web
For KLE500 '91-02
Shock Absorber ref XZE 11 - CZE 11
Single chamber pressurized gas compensated (Nitrogen) shock absorber, with oil/gas piston separator
XZE - CZE have body in Anti-friction trested steel, rod with low friction bushes, and head in Ergal worked from a single block by CNC machine.
- Spring preload with millimetric aluminium special ring
- Adjustable inter-axis length (0 – 10 mm), only for certain models
Going back to this vibrations problems I must say that after replacing the worn tires and the leaking shock absorber, the vibrations are gone and the bike seems to be another one. Apart from the absorber, which now makes the bike much more confortable (just as it is suppose to be), I installed a pair of knobby Michelin T63s tires. After the first bad impression (the bike is very unprecise with them on tarmac, as with any tire with that size of knobs) I had the oportunity to try them in a on/off-road trip to my bornplace in the southwest of Spain. I went with two friends (Suzi V-Strom 650 and KTM 640 Adv) through back roads, and we tried some of the tracks and pistes I usually rode through on my Mountain Bike when I was a kid. It was an amazing feeling doing 80 km/h in those pistes, and a good test ride for the KLE. In that route, and not going very fast, I had nothing to envy to the KTM ( which even finished with electrical problems, such as the temp. indicator and lights broken...) After that, which is the harder kind of route I pretend to use the KLE for, it showed to behave really well for its age ('95 model) and weight. I will attach photos of the route soon.
Hello, here there are some photos of the route over pistes in Extremadura, in the South West of Spain. Note that the name of the region, Extremadura, means Extremely Hard in Spanish
The one in which I appears in a watercourse near the track was taken after the one with the V-Strom crashed slipping the rear wheel into it. At last, the only damage was incredibly a small dent on the exhaust cover...what a luck!!
ha, ha, ha, Tell that to the ktm owner, who is barely 1,65 m tall. He is improving his "classic ballet" style standing on one toe on every red light he stops at.
Apart from that, the ktm was more reliable on ground clearance terms...but a bit tricky with electrics, at least on that trip (which was the first one for him, who bought it second-hand recently, having 2 years and 20.000 km) I hope that it will show better reliability after repairing the temperature indicator and the lights (front and rear)...which refused to turn on after the off road section...What will be impossible to avoid is the strong VIBRATION. With that big cylinder and no balancing shaft is like those beds at motels you insert a coin and give you some minutes of "relax"...I´m amazed that he still has all his teeth on.
To be on topic: Yes KLE has a lower ground clearance than KTM's I was with a friend who has an LC4 and I hit some rocks while he hadn't but that's the shield for, and anyway KLE has more ground clearance than other dual sport's (bi or mono cylinder) for example is higher than BMW F650, Transalp, Dominator, Africa Twin.
Now to be on topic tips and tricks, I have a question. Is there somebody who tried to tighten the drive chain (transmission chain)? I think that it became loose and it's kicking ... I ride with this problem for 3000 km but I think is better to tighten that chain. I saw that it has a screw on engine block but dis someone actually done that?
Thanks for the link. I have seen yours there. Really nice with the high mudguard. Did you buy it ready to install? or did you make it by yourself?
Don`t you have problems with the temperature? The mudguard seems to cover a big section of the radiator.
Going to your question, adjusting the drivechain is easy, the only thing you have to to is put the bike on a stand to free the rear wheel. Then take the security clip out, loose the axle nut of the wheel and with the nuts you find at the back of the swingarm you can change the tension of the chain, having as the reference the lines you have on sides of the swingarm. The chain slack should be 35-45 mm. If it still sounds the problem is that the chain-sprocket kit is worn out and you should replace it. It starts sounding only when you apply throttle, but if the chain is really worn out is sounds even when you apply the clutch a a certain speed and go on idle (try that).
I hope this can help. If you need further detais try to look for the manual (there is a link for one in pdf here in this forum, I can´t remember where)
On the other hand, I would like to install a temperature sensor on mine (here in Spain is really hot during the summer and it will be nice to have a better indication than just the overtemp light). I don't want to spend a lot of money and, just to try, I will buy a temperature sensor which is made for computer motherboards. It has a temperature range of 0-120ºC so it should be enough. REVOLTEC
As it has two probes I will stick one on the top of the engine (strapping the wire to the spark plug wire, maybe, and the other to the radiator. I will tell you if it works. At least it shoulg give an idea of the range of temperatures the engine is working on. Do you know of anybody who has done someting similar?
I also know about stickers which give you the temperature by changing colour. They are used in motocross bikes and even in aircraft engines. The only thing is that you have to stop, get down the bike and look to the engine...
As I said, I will inform you
Is not about the chain from engine to wheel is about ENGINE TRANSMISSION CHAIN (inside engine) about that transmission chain I was talking about.
@JULESKLE500: front mudguard is from a shop, is some aftermarket part for enduro/cross motorcycles. I don't have problems with heating because of it. From my experience with my KLE in summer, and this summer was very hot here (over 43C announced and arround 60C in city ) and I had problems with heating only at car lines but at a average speed my fan doesn't started. As you seen KLE has a big radiator and also a big cooler. I don't know anyone who put a temperature sensor on KLE, for me an better ideea is to put an fuel indicator.
You're actually talking about the camshaft chain tensioner on the front of the engine?
It is (should be) automatic, you should never have to touch it. There is a reset procedure in the manual for when you remove it though. If I remember correctly it is also an item to be inspected at the 4th service?
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