I have a 2000 KLR 650 , which I have owned since new. It currently has 50,000 miles on it, and has had no major reapirs, and it still runs as well as it always did. It is a veteran of several trips from the US to Mexico, ! to Panama, and 1 to Argentina.
doohikey: No need to elaborate here
I chnaged mine to one of the Eagle Mfg. units at 20,000 miles, but the original was in fine shape.
Stainless Steel Break Line (Front): Increases safety in emergency stops
Didn't do it, didn't feel the omprovement justified the trouble/expense.
Rear Master-Cylinder Guard: Protect the cheap plastic from a crash
I got one off a parts bike cheap so I installed it. I don't consider it essential.
Wiring Hardness Upgrade: Increased headlight output
Didn't do it, didn't feel the improvement justified the trouble/expense.
Carb Vent Kit: Needed for water crossings
Didn't do it, no problems in numerous water crossings.
Low-profile magnetic oil drain plug: In case of narrow misses with a rock & trapping engine debris.
Didn't do it.
Subframe Bolt Upgrade: Don't want these to sheer off from vibration!
I drilled and tapped the upper bolts from 8 to 10mm, as I had these fail on a different KLR in the past.
Radiator Fan Blade (metal): Stock plastic blade is too easily damaged
Didn't do it, no problems.
Serrated foot pegs: For water & mud. Dual Star or IMS?
I bought some generic ones on ebay for $15
Enlarged side-stand foot: Stock is too small for soft surfaces
Didn't do it, would have been nice a few times, but no biggie.
Folding Shift Lever: Less chance it'll break. MSR or IMS brand?
My original lever broke while street riding at about 20k miles. I have a aftermarket one now, forogt what brand.
Acerbis Rally Pro hand guards & spoilers: Better protection for controls than stock
Didn't do it, no problems
Sealed Bearings: Increases longevity
Don't know which bearings you are talking about, but I have met 3 KLR riders in my travels who were stranded due to rear wheel bearings failing. I replacer mine at about 47,000 miles and on of the rears felt notchy.
LED flashing break light: Type that only flashes for a short time. Increases visibility & decreases power use & eliminates bulb use.
Didn't do it no problems
Progressive Springs (rear): Stock is insufficient for long-term heavy loads.
I machined a spacer to increase the preload on the stock spring. not the ideal solution, but it was free. Had no problems.
ATO fuse upgrade/relocation kit: More durable & easier to reach
Didn't do it. One of the few failures I had on my S.AM. trip was an intermittent fuse contact. probably worth it.
Progressive Springs (front): Better overall performance & longevity
Got some of these off a parts bike, so I instaled them. IMO they are too stiff, would cut down spacer if I did it again.
Billet Oil Filler Cap: Needs wrench to open - prevents people from putting in things they shouldn't. For peace of mind mostly.
For conspriracy theorists only.
Break system speed bleeders: For ease of maintenance
didn't do it.
ScottOiler Dual Injector: Improved chain life & ease of maintenance
didn't do it, old fashioned can of chain lube got me 19,000+ miles on my last set.
LED Turn Signals: More durable than standard bulbs.
I still have the original indicator bulbs in mine and they still work. I just replaced the original tail/brake bulb about a month ago.
Stainless Steel Oil Filter: Because a non-reusable filter may be hard to find.
In Latin America, wouldn't be a problem, but I don't know hwere you are going.
REJECTED FOR WEIGHT, EXPENSE, ETC.
Stainless Steel Break Line (Rear): I can already lock up the rear break at will
Centerstand: Not worth the weight. Use a length of tube to raise either tire & double as other uses.
I find a centerstand well worth the trouble.
UNKNOWN - FEEDBACK ON USEFULNESS?
Drive Chain with a Master Link: Am I correct that the stock chain has no master link? Should I use an X-ring or O-ring chain? Clip or Rivet style master link?
I used a DID x ring gold and went 19,000 miles through the Americas, and the sprockets wore out first. I think the chain could have been reused in a pinch.
HID Headlight: Need to find either a full HID headlight replacement (not just bulb) or HID driving lights.
I used a faux HID fron AutoZone. Noticeably brighter.
Heated Grips: Is there enough need to justify the cost & power usage?
I was leary of overloading a marginal alternator. Would ahve been nice e few times.
IMS Fuel Tank: Provides longer range & radiator protection, however cap does not lock.
I never used reserve on my trips with the stock tank, so feel no need for more capacity, but more is better than less.
Happy-Trails Nerf Bars: Protection worth the weight? Not for use with IMS tank.
Didn't use them no problems
Radiator & Reservoir Guards: Alternative to Nerf Bars for less weight (or if using IMS tank).
I have these, nice for peace of mind.
Fork Brace: I've never felt the need. What benefit would it provide?
I didn't do it, but it does provide a firmer feel to the steering.
Water Pump Guard: Is this worth the cost?
Skid Plate: Is the added protection really worth the extra weight?
I used an aluminum skid plate for peace of mind, but I think the stock plastic one is toughere than people give it credit for.
Locking Axel Nuts: Will the self-locking mechanism hold up throughout the trip? If so, better than cotter pins or hitch pins.
I used hitch pin clips
Locking rear-axle alignment nuts: Undecided if better or worse than stock dual-nut system
I like the nylock nuts here, but not essential.
I carried a bunch of stuff I never used, like clutch plates and brake pads, but would take them again,, just because. I used standard thickness tubes, no slime and never had a puncture from Texas to Tierra del Fuego. (I know I'm lucky) The only significant problem I had was my speedo drive locked up and ripped the drive tangs out of the hub, so I had no speedometer for the last 4-5,000 miles, a major pain for figuring distance to the next fuel.