XR600 Starting Procedure??

**VintageHondaKid** · #1 19 Dec 2006

Hi,
I've been on Google and Ask.com and have found no real answers on starting the older XR600's.

I just bought the bike, and well, it is my very first dirt bike/kickstart bike.

And the friend I bought it off of can start the bike on 4-5 kicks cold almost all the time and 1-3 kicks warm.

I've never worked on single cylinders with a decomp system.

My basic understanding of starting the bike when cold is:

4-5 kicks with choke on, kill switch on, decomp on, and 1/4 throttle.
Decomp off, choke on, cylinder at TDC, with 1 BIG kick.

It doesn't work!! I'm there kicking it at least 30 sometimes or more.

But once it starts, it's smooth and RESPONCIVE!!!

Plug looks pretty much dry with a little wetness on the first spark plug thread, and the spark looks like a pretty nice blue to purple spark.

Mind you, I can't give it a real nice kick while looking at the spark. It's pretty hard.

Questions are:

1. Should the plug look Really Wet with that starting procedure?
2. How do I tell, when I'm at TDC for starting?
3. Should I be getting more Spark?
4. The bike likes to keep a high idle for a few seconds whenever I ride it. Could this be an indication of my starting problem?
5. What's every bodies starting procedure for there XR600?

I'd take it to a shop, but they won't work on anything older than the 90's

And sorry for the long post. I'm trying to get an answer in one reply

Like always, thank you for your help and time!

-Michael

**backofbeyond** · #2 19 Dec 2006

Hi Michael

Tricky isn't it! I've got an '87 twin carb XR and my approach is roughly like this:
Is it more than about a week since I last started it? If so then undo the float bowl drain screws to flush them through with fresh fuel.

Petrol on, choke on, no throttle, decompressor lever in, kick bike over 4-5 times. Let decompressor out, find tdc with kickstart (turn it over with the kickstart until you feel compression), ease just over tdc slowly, make sure throttle is shut, long full weight kick.
If it doesn't start, find tdc etc and repeat once. More than this is a waste - you've flooded it.

Still no start? - Choke off, open throttle fully, hold decompressor in and kick through at least five times (its flooded and you're clearing out the excess fuel). Start again with choke on etc as above.

A couple of things are important. First the throttle must be shut when you're trying to start it. Secondly the starting kick must be a full weight, get the engine moving as fast as possible type of kick.

From memory this is pretty much the proceedure Honda give in the XR handbook.

Hope this helps

**skidder** · #3 19 Dec 2006

I've not had a 600, but I've got a 650 and a 400, and I've had a couple of 250's also. They're all a little different, but the same in that you'll get to know it. Try not to loose heart, or your temper, as once you get the hang of it the bike will start fine.

It's hard to explain, but I think I usualy kick mine over a couple of times with the decompressor in before giving it a prod. Get it juuust past TDC, let the kick return to the top for the best swing and then give it a nice firm shove. Don't stamp on it, try to think of it more like a push. I've got a mate who used to begin his kick about 6 inches above the lever... he broke it. You need to have your foot almost taking the strain before you kick.

My 250's wouldn't respond to any throttle at all, but the other two need a little as the lever reaches the bottom of the swing. Experimenting will see you right with the 600.

If you drop it (or rather when you drop it), you'll find this the worst time. Again they're all different, but you need to clear it out before it'll go. Decomp in, throttle fully open, five or six kicks and return to your normal proceedure. I sometimes need to do this a few times to get it going, depending on how upside down it was.

**VintageHondaKid** · #4 19 Dec 2006

I will try it again today, but if I don't write back, I guess that means I'm getting close!!!!

It's not that I'm frustrated and mad, it's just that I'm disappointed.

I thought I would have the hang of it by now.

It't pretty hard to find TDC, cause I've never had to do that with any of my other 4 cylinder bikes.

Weighting in at 148lbs. and 6', you have a rough idea on how hard it is to start the bike......

Would anybody have any answers for my other questions?

1. Should the plug look Really Wet with that starting procedure?
2. How do I tell, when I'm at TDC on the firing stroke for starting?
3. Should I be on the Intake stroke?
4. Should I be getting more Spark?
5. The bike likes to keep a high idle for a few seconds whenever I ride it. Could this be an indication of my starting problem?

Thanks for the help, once again!
-Michael

**backofbeyond** · #5 19 Dec 2006

Hang on in there Michael! Once you get the hang of it it's pretty much 1st / 2nd kick. Works for me and I'm 5' 8"

Finding tdc is easy. Swing the kickstart out and move it down with your foot. Depending on where the engine stopped it'll move easily for a while and then feel like its meeting resistance. Thats the piston coming up on the compression stroke. If you continue to push slowly it'll move and then free up. That's the piston just gone over top dead centre (tdc). What I do is move the kicker with my foot till I feel compression, pull in the decomp lever and ease it a bit further (a couple of inches on the kickstart). Thats the start point for the long swinging push type of kick that skidder mentioned.
You dont need to know about any other strokes. Just after tdc on the compression stroke is the starting point. Start from there and go for it with your kick. Start anywhere else or do it half heartedly and it may kick back.

**mollydog** · #6 19 Dec 2006

Getting a hot bike started after a fall will be lesson 202. See you then!

**skidder** · #7 20 Dec 2006

Don't loose faith! You can do it. What the other boys are saying is right to, (although I've never messed with the idle for starting).

Strength and weight don't mean much, technique is far more important. It took me a while to get used to my 400, even after the 250's. But now I can start it first or second kick, regardless of hot or cold, however upside down it's been and even with no fuel at all. (Ok the fuel one isn't true.)

My buddy who's ridden bikes for twenty odd years borrowed it for a day and simply couldn't get the hang of it. Not at all. I'd waltz over and start it for him first go and waltz away again with a smug grin. I'm not clever, I just got to know the bike.

The point is, if you persist and figure it out, you'll be a better motorcyclist. You'll have a feel for the bike, you'll learn to listen to it and you'll begin to move as one. You see Michael, starting an XR is a lot like making love to a beautiful woman....

Seriously, don't give up, XR's are fab and worth the effort.

**Bill Ryder** · #8 20 Dec 2006

If your honda idles high for a brief time each time you ride it you have partialy plugged or dirty carbs. Once again as Grant says "clean the carbs and set everything to stock" if you are working with partialy dirty carbs you can kick till you are blue and it won't start every time. When you go out to ride and are fully outfitted.... ATGATT.... sometimes the bike won't start till you have peeled layers off and are sweating in a T shirt.

**VintageHondaKid** · #9 20 Dec 2006

Wow! Thanks guys for all the help.

The part about starting the XR in the cold is a good point!

My buddy took like 7-8 kicks in 35 degrees and the next day was 48, and only took 3-4 kicks.

I will try the starting procedure you guys mentioned, and will check the plug again for wetness today. It will be 47 degrees today.

Here's hoping

What clogged part of the carb could be giving me that high idle?
Also, should the carb slides height be even, or one higher than the other?

I just noticed that

To be Continued........

Thank you,
-Michael

**backofbeyond** · #10 20 Dec 2006

Sounds like you've got the twin carb model. One of the carbs opens slightly before the other. If you take the tank off and look at the mechanism you'll see how it works.
Its kind of hard to describe the setup but there is a specified clearance as to how much lead the first carb has. I don't have the exact figure to hand but its around 1/16" / 3mm. It shouldn't change unless someone has deliberately reset it

**VintageHondaKid** · #11 21 Dec 2006

Hello,

Sad to say, but yesterday I tried everyones starting procedure and it didn't work.

What's really funny is, how I do start it!

I get the kicker in a certain position, with the decomp on, and while I'm in my kicking stroke, I release the decomp and hope it catches on TDC to start.
It seems to work quite well!
Also, it requires a little throttle.

Only requires 2-3 kicks when warm, but yet to see how it starts when cold and primed once.

My last questions guys, before I put the XR up for the winter and start perfecting her.

1. It seems, as hard as I can kick it at TDC, there's not enough spark. Wouldn't you think?
2. This method of starting, could I be damaging something, or is this a good method of starting her up?
3. If the slow jets were plugged, could the bike still hold a even idle?
4. Could air passages be blocked in the carbs that are making seem like the slow jets might be clogged?

I think that's all I can do except rebuild the carbs, and check all resistance on the CDI, alternator, and coil.

Thanks guys for all the help, and I probably will be starting another Thread really sooooon!

-Michael

P.S. I forgot to mention from the start, that the bike does have a lot of modifications. Shaved Head, maybe a Performance Cam, Full SuperTrapp exhaust, UNI 2 stage filter, rebored next size over, and the buddy I bought it off said it was rejetted.
I will find out soon enough!

**VintageHondaKid** · #12 21 Dec 2006

Forgot one last thing.

MollyDog,
I did reset the air screw to factory specs, 1-3\8 and it seems to idle a little better. Even drops to the idle position a little faster, but does idle a little high still.

Your help and everyone else's was most appreciated.
Thank you guys,
-Michael

**davidmc** · #13 23 Dec 2006

VintageHondaKid, if you have an aftermarket pipe and other engine mods, the carb has probably been rejetted. If this is the case, any use of the choke may be flooding the engine immediately when you try starting it. Try starting it while using no choke at all and see if this helps.

I have an XR250L and its also a nightmare to start when cold. I have ridden several other XRs and none of them were easy to start when cold. Mine also starts easily when warm. Sadly, I think this problem is a bit endemic to the XR range as I know others who have had similar experiences. However, once you figure out the trick to starting these things you should be fine. Although your XR will probably never start on the first or second kick when cold like some other bikes at least you will know what you are in for.

Good luck.

**VintageHondaKid** · #14 26 Dec 2006

Yeah! I kinda figured the jetting was a little to rich, but I don't think that would explain my high idle.

It may explain my starting problem

If you give it throttle at idle, and when you return the throttle to neutral, it stays at a slightly higher idle. Then drops to a nice pudder!

The method that I found starting the bike up, that I posted earlier, could I be damaging anthing?

I really need to know!!

She's coming along nicely, and I hope to have her ready before Spring or maybe a little after.

She need's the R/R, rear taillight, and a nice set of turn signals.

I will post a picture soon.

Thanks guys,
-Michael

**davidmc** · #15 26 Dec 2006

Hmm one other though came to mind, with respect to the idle, I believe that if it takes a few seconds to drop down to normal idle after idling high, the mixture is lean. If it drops below idle and then goes up to normal idle after a few seconds its rich. Or maybe I am reversed. Can anyone else confirm the quick and dirty carburator pilot adjustment method?

Make sure the carbs are clean first or your adjustments will be in vain, especially if the bike sat for a while...