Posted on behalf of Cugel:
"The pic with my bike acting as a washing line shows my first attempt at making a tough & light windscreen. I used it last year in Morocco.
I got a sheet of 3mm lexan, marked up the bends I wanted and got to work with a hot air paint stripper. You need a big wooden jawed vise and some thick cloth gloves to make the bends. I used a Black and Decker workmate. Make sure you clean up the jaws or all the muck gets transferred to the plastic. Put the lexan sheet in the vice, with the required bend line just exposed above the wood surface of the workmate. Blast away in a steady sweep along the bend line. The lexan will start to bend by itself due to the temperature gradient from front to back. Keep on heating until its soft and easy to move. You will get some bubbles in the lexan at this point, but these are not too bad. When its soft enough, bend to the required amount and hold until its cooled. Practice on some scrap before you have a go at a big piece. What you end up with is very tough and very safe compared to acrylic. The latter shatters easily - its very brittle. I hit a massive pothole in the Atlas last year. I nearly went over the bars.
I bent the lexan screen through about 70/80 degrees, and it bounced back with just a few stress cracks.
I made a headlight shield using the same technique.
This year I wanted a bigger screen that was tougher, and gave me some shading for the gps and clocks. I bought a sheet of 3mm polypropylene. Same technique, but I noticed that I had to be more careful with the heat gun because of the lower melting point. The lower melting point was very useful, as it meant I could tweak the shape with my gloved hands.
The new shield appears in all the other pics. I built an adjustable mount for it so I could vary the rake. This was made from 3mm alloy.
By the way, if you are feeling keen you can drape-form or vac-form both lexan and polypropylene - however, its going to take longer to make up the kit.
Other points to note:
I wanted to try to keep the airflow laminar where possible, so I built the screen about 1" proud of the original XR screen. Thus a bleed of air anchors the flow for a bit longer at the top of the screen and helps reduce buffet.
The screen is attached to the alloy mount via some rubber nuts. These pop out in a hard crash.
The new poly screen is good at reducing higher frequency wind noise - its just not there anymore. However, thus means that I'm now more concious of the remaining low frequency buffeting. The latter penetrates earplugs and is a real balls ache. So I'm still not there yet.
What do you guys think of my hibscus stickers?"
Nice bike, and I think the stickers certainly improve the final product.
[This message has been edited by mattmbishop (edited 04 November 2005).]