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Honda Tech Honda Tech Forum - For Questions specific and of interest to Honda riders only. Questions comparing which bike is best etc go in the "Which Bike" forum.

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  #1  
Old 20th August 2001
RV RV is offline
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WHAT OIL

I'm travelling across Iran, Pakistan, India and Nepal on an XR400. Does anyone know what oil is available that is suitable for the XR. I've always used bike specific fully synthetic oil until now. Can car oil be used? What about mineral oil? If using a car oil should I drop down viscosity - i.e. 10/40 as opposed to 20/50? Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 25th August 2001
andygray andygray is offline
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Hi
I have used Mobil 1 car oil in XR's and my Transalp before, and experienced only very slight clutch slip in the XR. Its synthetic, very good when running in hot climates at slow speeds ( india ) and widely available. Used to change it every 6000 miles on the transalp and 4000 on the XR but last's much longer if need be.
Andy Gray
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Old 28th August 2001
Grant Johnson Grant Johnson is online now
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You should be able to use any good grade SE/SF car oil, without worry.

The only real difference with a high quality motorcycle synthetic is that in theory the engine will last longer - but the amount longer isn't going to be know till you hit 100,000 miles or so... and that it will not cause trouble with the clutch. Car synthetics may cause clutch slip.

The clutch will not be a problem with any standard motor oil. Used to be that's all there was, and it worked fine.

Your owners manual will probably give required specs for oil, and they will certainly list ordinary motor oil.

Use the grade recommended in your owners manual for your model of bike in the appropriate temperatures.

Most of the world gets by with the cheap stuff, it's only those of us in the "developed" world that gets stuck on the idea that synthetic is required.

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  #4  
Old 16th March 2002
andygray andygray is offline
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Just found an interesting page over car,bike,synthetic and mineral oils. I get the impression that car mineral oil is no problem in bikes. Perhaps its of some use to someone out there.
www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
Andy
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Old 2nd April 2002
ewebby ewebby is offline
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Hi
If you want to learn everything on oil, spend the $20 on this book www.engineoilbible.com and learn how synthetics are actually cheaper in the long run. You can even get a test from www.amsoil.com.

peace
Kevin

[This message has been edited by ewebby (edited 02 April 2002).]
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  #6  
Old 2nd April 2002
Grant Johnson Grant Johnson is online now
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Let me clarify - because what I said may have been misconstrued.

Synthetics are not REQUIRED. And in the area RV is heading for they may not be possible to get. So use ordinary oil and don't worry, it's perfectly good stuff.

That doesn't mean synthetics aren't better - they clearly are.

The debate for a very long time was whether or not they are worth the extra money - and that seems to be won, with a clear yes - synthetics are better.

BUT if you can't get it - ordinary motor oil is FINE. Your bike won't disintegrate overnight. The internals on my R80G/S after 130,000 kilometers of ordinary motor oil all the way are just fine thanks. And far higher mileages than that have been attained on ordinary oil.

So don't worry - use "the good stuff" if you can get it - and whatever you can get if not. It all works.

FWIW imho - the motoroilbible guy sounds like a snake oil salesman and to me does more harm than good in his pitch. Remember he is selling something. When someone comes over like he does I automatically disbelieve everything he says. Too bad I find myself agreeing - partially - with what he says. 3000 mile oil changes are ridiculous - but then I don't think much of his 25,000 mile changes either.

With fully synthetic oil I'd tend to increase the manufacturers recommendation somewhat. How much? That's tough - Mobil for instance recommends manufacturers recommended intervals. Others say double. What's right? No proof anywhere.

Remember that as a general rule motorcycles are MUCH harder on oil than cars. Air cooled engines run much hotter, and most any bike revs far higher than most cars. What was the last car you could buy that turned 15,000 rpm? This and our smaller market is why motorcycle specific oil costs more than regular automotive oil. I run car oil in my Beemer because it's motor is most car-like of all the motorcycle motors out there.

I always change the filter with the oil. And I use a factory filter, not an aftermarket one. Too many bad/cheapo ones out there.

Andy Gray notes the page - www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm - that's good stuff, I've seen it before, and agree.

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  #7  
Old 2nd April 2002
Grant Johnson Grant Johnson is online now
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One item maybe not covered in the lengthy (sorry!) note above

Quote:
Originally posted by RV:
If using a car oil should I drop down viscosity - i.e. 10/40 as opposed to 20/50? Thanks.
NO! No difference whatsoever. Use the correct grade for the conditions - especially ambient temerature - as recommended in your owners manual. DON'T try and outsmart the factory.

Auto 20w-50 and motorcycle 20w-50 is identical regarding viscosity. No difference, no reason to adjust.


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