Anyone have any suggestions for the rear static sag settings for a dommie? It'll be predominantly road work with light luggage. I'm thinking around 55mm......but I'm not totally sure. As its such a pain in the arse to get to the preload screws I cant see me doing it too often so I'm hoping to get it pretty much right first time...

Cheers!

Dave

Its probably different for a Dommie but below is the setup for the WP rear shock on my 600 CCM.

1. Put the bike on a crate so the back wheel is off the ground. Do it cold, not ridden.

Measure the distance, accurately, from the centre of the wheel spindle to a point on the frame behind the seat. (Stick a bit of tape on the plastic seat surround and draw a line with a marker is the
best way.)

Write it down!!

2. Take it off the crate, bounce it, get someone to hold it up, and measure again.

Write it down!!

3. Sit on it, support it gently with one leg and measure again, this time your pal will have to do it.

Write it down!

The difference between 1 and 2 can be no more than 15 and 20 mm. In reality, it will be. Don't get a panic on.

The difference between 1 and 3 can only be between 90 and 100mm. In reality it wont be!!

Well now you know if you have a problem. The book says if the last measurement is less than 80, the spring's too hard, and if it's more than 110, it's too soft. If it's 85 or 105, I don't know what you do!

HOWEVER......one complete turn of the big castleated nut holding the spring represents 1.75mm of spring 'pre-load'. If it's too soft, you could try winding it up to bring the difference down to the limits of 90-100mm.

For example, if the final difference between 1 and 3 was 86mm (4mm away from the minimum allowed) winding the nut 3 turns would be 3 x 1.75mm = 5.25.

86 + 5.25 =91.25mm within the limits!!


The rear spring on my other bike (a XR600) is a LOT softer than this and still seems to go ok so I suspect that unless you're racing or particularly sensitive to settings there is a fair bit of leeway in all of this

B.O.B