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  #1  
Old 22 Nov 2004
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xr650l "creative" exaust mod.

i have a 2003 xr650l with a broken exaust pipe running to the stock can (the rear half?). have a suppertrapp to add on. is there a "creative" way to deal with this or do i have to start shelling out some of my hard earned "fun tickets" and ordering parts.
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Old 22 Nov 2004
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I wouldn't recommend trying to be creative without the use of a welder. MIG is the easiest.

Measure the OD of the broken pipe & try to find a match & make it fit. Bends can be made without a tube bender by cutting & shutting - patience is required though.
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Old 23 Nov 2004
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A good source of tube of various diameters are the car exhaust centres - the skips outside these regularly have all kinds of pipe, and often have sections cut from new systems too.

It's often possible to make a new section by grinding (or hacksawing)slots in the ends of the tube, and fixing the new tube section in place using either proper bike exhaust clamps (neater) or car ones (stronger and better compression, but very ugly and sometimes with clearance problems)and some gun-gum or exhaust bandage. Sounds (and is) a bodge, but it works and lasts!

Pipe really needs a proper bender if you have to add a curve, but you might just be able to get away with filling the tube with sand and putting gentle curves that way. You really need an outer and inner guide spring to prevent the pipe collapsing, though (and a lot of strength!).

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Old 23 Nov 2004
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I once fabricated a centre section of exhaust pipe for an XL500. Needed two bends, both about 120 degrees.

I cut four V-slots, about 2/3 pipe diameter, for each bend & welded them up. Took about 3 hours in all - quite happy as it lasted a year.

If trying tube bending, try hiring one from a tool shop. Make sure you use the correct formers to place the tube in - too big & you'll end up with a creased & flattened tube. If filling with sand, plug at each end & heat up prior to bending.

Before welding & bending etc, check out the cost of an aftermarket stainless replacement.

[This message has been edited by Steve Pickford (edited 23 November 2004).]
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Old 25 Nov 2004
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good info! i have access to these tools but am pretty green when it comes to metal. also have a broken sub-frame to weld back together and rienforce but i would probably slaughter it. any tips on type of metal and where to beef frame up.
thanks,
wade
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Old 26 Nov 2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by wade f:
good info! i have access to these tools but am pretty green when it comes to metal. also have a broken sub-frame to weld back together and rienforce but i would probably slaughter it. any tips on type of metal and where to beef frame up.
thanks,
wade
Not really familiar with your bike re: beefing up the sub-frame. Just bear in mind that the sub frame on most bikes is subject to two forces.

The top rail that the seat rests on is normally subject to extension forces i.e. the force of riders weight & luggage tries to pull the tube away from the frame.

The lower subframe rail that is probably welded to the main frame somewhere near the swingarm pivot point is subjst to compression forces i.e. the weight is trying to squash the subframe.

Read Chris Scotts "Adventure Motorcycle Handbook" - plenty of tips/do's & don'ts there for beefing up bikes for long trips.

Re: welding - practice on scrap metal first, preferably of the same kind that you're going to work with. I'd buy extra tube & practice with a spare bit to get the welders etting correct before burning holes in the real thing (lol - been there & done that...)

Remember to remove the fuel tank before welding & to disconevct the battery before carrying out any electrical welding (Mig/Tig/Arc/Heli-Arc) on the bike. Might be wise to disconnect the ignition box also & remove the carb if it contains fuel.

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Old 9 Dec 2004
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right on for the info, already have exhaust bandage for patch job, was running with vice-grip and bailing wire, couldn't use duct tape anywhere, too bad...
thanks again,
wade
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