are tubeless harder to break the bead than tube type...

[bikerfromsark]

Hi all, are 'tubeless type' tyres harder to break the bead than 'tube type' on africa twin rim, (ie. non tubeless rims but with 'safety bead') Tourances in my size (140-80-17") are only avaiable in tubeless type. Will this mean they will be very hard to get off for puntures.

Thanks alot

George

[Warthog]

I am no expert, but I would say, yes, tube-less are harder to break. This is because the rim-to-tyre seal needs to be very good to prevent loss of pressure.

However, if you are fitting these tourances to tubed-tyre rims, then perhaps it will not be so hard. After all tubeless wheels are designed to match up and seal with the tyres, but tubed rims are only designed to hold the rim, and not seal.

I may be wrong, but that is my estimation: harder than a tubed tyre, but not as hard as a tubeless on tubeless wheel...

HTH

[Toyark]

My only experience is with the tyres on my F650 Dakar (tubed) and my R1200GS (tubeless)

Although it depended a bit on the type of tyre ( knobbly or road as well as the manufacturer), I came to the conclusion that the hardest for me is the R1200GS ( thank goodness for plugger kits! and Watlings!! )

The easiest (but messy-est due to the chain) is the tubed tyre on my Dakar.

One tip I was given that works - The warmer the tyre, the easier it is to come off or go back on.

and it is now a piece of cake now that I have found the right tool for the job which works on both front and rear tyres for both bikes.

[maria41]

In South America we fitted tubeless tyres to our F650Gss, obviously with tubes in.

When we had a puncture, rear tyre) we found impossible to break the bead to start with. We were both standing on the tyre but it would not bulge.

We remembered Grant's advice and we used the 2d 650GS' side stand to break the bead. It worked perfect.
So in conclusion yes it is hard to break it.