Common electrical conduit, made in 20 minutes. Cost? Scrape piece, free.

My bags are not supported by the racks, they only rest on them. Principle job of the left side rack is to keep bag out of rear tire. This system has worked OK on some rough going. They are attached but only to keep them from flopping up and down. Cross straps across the seat take most of the load.

Poor man's solution:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_pXs6Z_85Tj8/S-...31_642oC-L.jpg

Mornin' Steve,

ta for the info.

Regards

Reggie

Hi Steve,

just ordered a pair from them today, one for me and one for my mate Doc.

They didn't have them in stock so I can expect them on Wednesday or Thursday. Thanks again for the heads up.

Regards

Reggie

Glad to help, post pics of the mounting when it's done.

Hi Steve,

I sure shall.

Regards

Reggie

there is a guy on the GS Forum who makes his own box's & racks, suggest you run a search on there. contact him

There's four on UKGS'er:

Vern who makes the "Worldbeater" ally panniers which seem to strong & held in high regard.

There's also Civil in N. Ireland who makes the "Caja Sahel" panniers.

Redcap makes basic well priced ally boxes which fit to TT frames & take TT fittings.

There's also Stahlkoffer who I think are based in the Midlands, they have a website.

The Caja Sahels are a bolt on fitment, not sure about the others though?

Excuse my ignorance but ?
 

I am well impressed with peoples knowledge regarding the building of racks for panniers. I have currently got a fabricator working on building a frame for an xt 250 Serow - he is making a great job of it so far and incorporating some of the ideas used here - e.g. tool roll/ spare fuel can etc. I have noticed that ALL the racks on here and the "off the shelf" racks have a bar across the back under the number plate - is this essential ? - the rack he has built so far is fixed to a rear rack - I don't wish to cut corners but this guys bill for labour is mounting up and the material costs are also increasing - what does this bar do ? - is it to prevent bending if the bike is dropped ? or does it have a more significant structural purpose - any replies gratefully received

Chizz

The reason for the bar across the back is to link the two sides together so they form a kind of box structure with the subframe rails and the vertical pannier mounting loops. Without it the boxes can flex in and out and eventually something will fracture.

Ideally you'd put the link bar straight between the boxes but in most bikes the wheel is in the way so it tends to be a bent version that goes round the back of the tyre.

Back of Beyond

Thanks for that - it makes a lot of sense - think I just need to be prepared to spend a little more time/money

Chizz

Just triangulates/boxes the frames - I've had Krauser and (have) BMW 3 point pannier frames and a Japanese lookalike system and all needed to be cross braced to stop the welds/bends from cracking. Even then we run straps around the panniers and over the seat to provide additional lift and support (think Playtex).

By cross bracing the frames you very effectively counter the considerable forces trying to push the panniers onto the bikes centre line. Simple example is a cardboard box open at one end - it collapses really easily. Put a brace in the open end and it remains strong.

I was thinking about this rear loop. From my experience, non-crash failures almost always occur with the rear loop. If you move the connecting-member (i.e. a straight version of the rear loop) that goes from the one pannier to the other further up (vertically) the pannier frame, so that it joins halfway up each side then you may be able to get away with a straight member.

I did this on an africa twin when the mule rack failed in Congo (using a strut from a folding picnic chair) and it is suprising how much more effective and efficient a straight joining-member is. The problem is the rear wheel travel being in the way. Food for thought anyway.

Hi Chizz,

any photo's of the project so far?

Regards

Reggie

Bike now blue to match the Clarke tank, swapped panels with the other DRZ. Fitted fender brace, lowered seat and lowering links, pannier frames back from being sandblasted and powdercoated. Also made protection plates for the clutch, generator & starter motor covers from 2.5mm aluminium plate.

http://possu.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...82_ma6RX-M.jpg

http://possu.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...50_RSGS6-M.jpg

http://possu.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...91_xoE3A-M.jpg

http://possu.smugmug.com/Motorcycles...19_djfF7-M.jpg

To do soon: fit rad guards, cut foam out of the original seat, modify Ortlieb panniers.

To do before start of trip: new tyres, chain, sprockets, new stainless countershaft spacer, oilseal & O'ring, check valve clearances, new pads front & rear, purchase Wolfman tank bag & tank panniers, fit aluminium plate to rear rack.

All pics here: DRZ PANNIER FRAMES - Steve's Photos

no pics yet
 

Sorry Reggie no pics yet - bike still away - hopefully will be complete in time for Ripley - although may have to paint in the short term - shortage of powder coaters in the Highlands

Chizz