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  #46  
Old 7 Jan 2008
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I fitted the oxford hothands (the velcro wrapround ones) to my xt600 about 2 months ago.
There is only an on/off switch, and they get toasty warm.

Takes no time to get used to the 'chunkier' feel of the grips.

I've had various heated gloves/grips in my time, these appealed to me as they were the simplest of all the solutions.

Handlebar muffs have been known to operate the front brake lever when riding at high speed.
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  #47  
Old 7 Jan 2008
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Smile I have a simple fix for this Patrick......

Quote:
Originally Posted by mollydog View Post
Getting the old grips off is not hard if you know how. For grips I really like the Suzuki Vstrom grips. Soft, flexible and won't melt with the Symtec's on HI. Check 'em out....good on the hands too, IMO.

Here is what you do.....

Grip removal:
Insert screwdriver blade...carefully....under grip. Spray some brake cleaner in the gap. (watch your eyes here!!!) Gently insert it further, spray a bit more, wiggle a bit and pull grip right off. Be sure to use proper Grip Glue upon re-installation.

The Symtec's are not pads, but thin heating elements. You will need to insulate both the throttle side and the clutch side but for different reasons. The Symtec's specify one element for one side or the other. The Throttle tube is PLASTIC, it can melt in some cases. Wrap one layer of electrical tape only.

Clutch side: Wrap two layers of electrical tape. If you use too much tape the grip will feel "fat". Thin, high quality, pliable grips are best here. Not foam ones
or rock hard ones. Neither work well with heated grips.

NOTE: The steel clutch side (heat sink) will always take longer to heat up. Normal.

Be sure to allow proper slack for throttle movement so as not to work harden
wires. Take care in wire routing and switch placement. Use zip ties as needed
and liquid plastic resin to cover switch connections for wet riding.
Allow for bars turning to and fro. Try to find an exsisting switched wire pair to hook up to. (Key off = Grips off) Find out which fuse controls these wires. Should be OK.


Patrick Bar Muffs are a great Idea!!
For the problem outlined in Bold above..... Here's how you get round it.

Mark the bar where the grip finishes......Using contact adhesive, smear a very thin layer on the bar and before it dries wrap a piece of very thin Laminate Floor underlay Foam* around the bar and then remove it.

(* This is very thin and white, like the 'foam' bags you get wrapped round a VCR or stereo when you buy it, or indeed you can use this material too, it is just as good, I have used both)

when the glue has dried to a 'very tacky' stage, about 10 minutes, wrap the foam back on. if it overlaps, use a razor blade or scalpel to trim it so it just meets.

This now INSULATES the left hand side of the Handlebars so the 'Heatsink' effect is slowed down by about 75 percent.

Obviously I have no way of actually measuring this percentage except tp tell you that after I did this the grips were HOT in 5 mins as opposed to WARM after 10 mins.. and stayed hotter too.


Martyn
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  #48  
Old 12 Feb 2008
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Thanks Martin biker, great advice. Will try this mod in a few weeks
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  #49  
Old 13 Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkabout View Post
Any particular experience for this TDM?
I can see that it could be difficult to get your hands back on the bars if you take them out of the muffs for any reason while on the move.
I just don't take my hands off the bars now that they are heated!
Hi Guys, I used them once a long way back, whilst riding and trying to keep me visor clear, fumbled trying to get me hand back in and promptly joined the hedge row, not very fast I'm glad to say, but there you go, as for the high/low settings for basic grips if you can switch the heater elements from parallel to series IE 6 volts across each heater (Low) or 12volts (High) you'll have approx 50% or 100% heating ....comprend'e? better than a kick up the......
TDMalcolm
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  #50  
Old 13 Feb 2008
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Another possibility?

Notice the lack of whoops.

Last edited by mollydog; 23 Mar 2009 at 07:15.
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  #51  
Old 9 Sep 2008
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look at:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-gs-r100-37498

muffs are great! I used canvas to make my own; first option was cavas used for boat tops, then I got the lorry/trailer type. Lining - synthetic fleece. For winter, not chilly, cold, I use heat lining. Takes about 80-100W/per side for comfortable warmth. Connected as shown on pics in above link; series-parallel.
Neat thing about muffs is that the handlebar switches are kept "clean" and operational -
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  #52  
Old 9 Sep 2008
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Just one question (well, 3 actually): Can you cut off the ends of heated grips (eg Oxford ones) to fit "wrap-around" handguards (eg. Acerbis), which have the end go into the handlebars? I guess perhaps the symtec ones might be the way to go in this case?

And on a further note... how wide are they (Oxford grips)? I have Xl/XXL-sized gloves, and from the comment from Birdy this could represent a problem...
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  #53  
Old 9 Sep 2008
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i have the symtec mylar film heaters and they are great.
i even managed to use the original grips over the top too!
2 tips;
1/dont wire them up as it says in the instructions, you could kill your battery by leaving the grips on connected straight to it. wire them up to the battery but through a switched live relay, like from the rear light or instrument feed or something.
2/kill two birds with one stone and wire in an accessory socket into the power line to the grips.

the only snag i found is that if you go for the panel mounted rocker switch instead of the bar mounted one, the cables from the grips are not long enough for a large adventure bike, but its simple enough to extend them.
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  #54  
Old 10 Sep 2008
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cut mine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by QuePasaJero View Post
Just one question (well, 3 actually): Can you cut off the ends of heated grips (eg Oxford ones) to fit "wrap-around" handguards (eg. Acerbis), which have the end go into the handlebars? I guess perhaps the symtec ones might be the way to go in this case?

And on a further note... how wide are they (Oxford grips)? I have Xl/XXL-sized gloves, and from the comment from Birdy this could represent a problem...
i cut the ends off mine with no problems at all but keep as close to the end as possible.mind you the new oxford switch should switch off when you leave them on accidentally! mine did'nt!! flat battery! i'm gonna run them through a relay now so it dont happen again. my first time with heated grips after years of calling my mate all sorts of homosexual tendencies! great things and shame i did'nt have them before!
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  #55  
Old 13 Sep 2008
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I'll kick in a vote for the Symtec heaters. They run about $35 here in the states and are available at this link in the UK:

Buy Symtec Heated Grip Kit|Motorcycle Tank Bags, Luggage, Panniers, Tail Bags, Seat Bags, Enduro Bags, for Aprilia, Benelli, BMW, Buell, Cagiva, Ducati, Honda, Kawasaki, Moto Guzzi, MV Agusta, Suzuki, Triumph, Yamaha, Off Road, Enduro motorcycles

I have these on my V-Strom and they work terrific, but I rarely can use them on the "high" setting as they are too hot with the hand guards installed.

-Cabel
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  #56  
Old 16 Sep 2008
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http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-gs-r100-37498

Home Symtec-inc

Something like this is what I use:
Conrad
Artikelnummer: 189257 20W
Artikelnummer: 189230 15W
Artikelnummer: 701028 on-off-on (screw attachment - what I use)
Artikelnummer: 701024 on-off-on (flat press-on attachment)
Artikelnummer: 700440 sealing cap - however there are several different caps to choose from and which is which is something I have not figured out yet.

I install these film heaters inside the handlebar = no wires at the handlebars = less stuff to get entagled in = far longer service intervalls.
Takes a bit longer to get the handles warm - but they do get warm.

Seen a comment on plastic gas-twists. Yes. That is a problem. The rubber get lose...
This is supposed to be possible to fix using hair volume spray the the mrs's keeping... ask her before nicking the spray... they tend to have a temprament... I'll test it some day when the rubber slipping gets to me.

I use these films inside the mirrors, as knee-pad-heaters, etc where ever some heat is needed/required.
The kit prices are a bit high... look at Radio Shack, Conrad Electronic, and what ever electronic company you have close-by.
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  #57  
Old 16 Dec 2010
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i'm gonna put some oxfords on my new (to me) '09 wee-strom abs for my someday RTW trip. i also want to add some of those muff deals but ive heard they wont fit over larger sized hand guards. is that true? why don't they make a large size?
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  #58  
Old 16 Dec 2010
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I made my own handlbarmuffs back in around 1990 since there were none on the market (besides some "push-bike" sizes).

Muffs without heat is great, at summertime in rain and on chilly nights... at winter one dearly needs heated muffs.

This is my present idea of material to make new muffs of:
Elvärmesits 12 V - Biltema
45W - way too low however. One needs at least 80W (for each handle)... but 45W is far more than no heating at all. Can your alternator handle 160-200W extra load?

Hot air is an option.

Oil-hose in a loop is an option.

I prefer electric heating (so far).

Oilheater:
http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/messages/5/103.html?torsdagden18november19992306

Alternator:
http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/bilgen.html

http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/mont_bilgen.html
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  #59  
Old 16 Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildlands1 View Post
i'm gonna put some oxfords on my new (to me) '09 wee-strom abs for my someday RTW trip. i also want to add some of those muff deals but ive heard they wont fit over larger sized hand guards. is that true? why don't they make a large size?
They do .
Hippo Hands will fit on a VStrom .
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  #60  
Old 22 Jun 2012
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with barkbusters?

will hippohands fit on a wee with barkbuster handguards?
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