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**Warthog** · #16 4 Mar 2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dodger

The Trangia burner has a screw on cap ,which seals the burner and keeps any unburnt fuel inside .
The cap that you describe is the simmer ring ,an optional extra .
If you just want to boil water ,you don't use the simmer ring.
You can make a "narrow " simmer ring quite simply by cutting a hole out of the bottom of a pop can.
You just drop it over the flame.

[Low tech and not Touratwatish --but it works . ]

Not touratwatish?!?
Right, that's it: I'm not interested!!

Actually, based on what you describe, that is good news: it means a sealable container is still an option.

I've since realised that the simmer ring is still possible, assuming that the optimum height for heating matches the height of the single lower sidewall of the FS design (which is 5 cm lower than the other 3 sides)...

**teflon** · #17 4 Mar 2010

A couple of simple height settings would surely be enough? Nothing elaborate - just a few holes drilled to poke some wire across would do it. Easily customized along the way. Same goes for windshields - some heavy 'pie dish' foil and a few of those giant paperclips. Just a thought.

**grizzly7** · #18 4 Mar 2010

Spirit (Meths) Burner

I didn't think the simmer ring was optional? In any case, it does two things.
If you don't have it on there are flames from the central pool and from the small ring of perimeter holes so lots of heat.
The simmer ring on and open cuts off the perimeter holes but leaves the centre clear, so less heat straight away.
You can then slide the adjustable bit over the fuel pool to cut back the flame further.
So if your particularly poorly constructed stove

hasn't room for the sliding plate in open position, you could just cut that plate off, or trim a can perhaps, to blank off the outer holes only giving at least a degree of adjustability?

**Warthog** · #19 5 Mar 2010

Well, I have the burner and, using a Jenga set, I tested out varying heights earlier this evening.

In short it works. It is not as hot as my Omnifuel, predictably, nor is it as hot as the wood fire but it works, boiling 250ml of water in about 2 mins 40 secs.

Quite a while but when wood is not available or is wet, it is a vialbe alternative!

So now for making my holder. I have ally sheet that I will cut to size and some 7mm diameter ally rod that I will use to make the supports. To make these I need to bend the rods and right-angles 4 times each.

Any suggestion for bending ally?
Should I use heat the way I might with steel? Or just bend with a lever of some sort? (Ally seems a little more prone to metal fatigue than steel...)

**Warthog** · #20 6 Mar 2010

Well, a big thanks to everyone who gave me pointers. Mission accomplished!

I ditched the ally bending idea and just made two support bars and a platform that would sit on them. The platform has rivets in it to stop the burner shifting as well as fitting into holes I drilled in the supports for stability: i would not want the burner to tip hot alcohol all over the floor!!

Here are some pics:

The complete assembly, boiling the kettle, the individual parts, where the bars go, and finally how all my stove stuff packs down!

Also, using this set up, I can also lower the height further meaning the frying pan could be used. I also found out that the FS could make a sturdy windshield as a cannister and gas stove can easily fit inside it!!

Complete kit weighs just over 1kg (without any pots or pans

)!! So quite heavy, but very easy to pack.

All-in-all: Chuffed!