Power Loss Question???

[IronArse]

Hi folks, I'm on the road and have a bit of a problem with my old faithful.
Got my Wee-Strom stuck deep in sand, was revving the f**k out of her to get her out, in first gear. Once I got back on to terra firma the power was gone out of her.
Basically, she still runs fine on each gear at it's lowest throttle level, where I'm just giving her a wee wee bit of juice, so I can go up through the gears and still get 100-120kph in 6th (with a good hill behind me), but in each gear I can't accelerate.
If I pull the throttle any more past the barest bite mark, the revs go crazy, but with no extra power to the bike.
Did I burn out the clutch? Or what else could it be?
So basically I've got to bring the bike to a mechanic somewhere here in Spain, but I'm just wondering what the hell is wrong with it before I go in and try to explain it in my bad Spanish to a local mechanic.
As always, thanks for the help folks!

[mollydog]

Yea, sounds like you've burnt it up!

Here's the thing ...

When you replace the clutch plates (probably friction plates only, not steel plates)
you should also replace the PRESSURE PLATE and Clutch Springs.

What happens when things get HOT is the heat treatment of the springs is lost ... and they SHRiNK! Have your mechanic compare your old springs with a new one.
I'm betting the old one will be shorter ... not good. Springs are cheap. Plates aren't bad and the pressure plate could be reused unless it's bungered up or scored. (you'll see this)

It's a super SIMPLE job, any decent pro mechanic can do the whole job in under 2 hours easy. You can probably order the parts from a Suzuki dealer there in Spain.
WARNING: I would NOT use aftermarket clutch plates or springs ... use only
genuine Suzuki parts. (BEST!) If you have no choice and can't get Suzuki parts ... well, don't expect things to last long.
Mechanics and shop monkeys will push you to buy aftermarket ... they make more money! Don't do it. I am not wild about EBC or Barnett clutch plates.

You can ride it very carefully, don't let it rev up ... stay in lower gear longer, accelerate slow, do not lug it, if it starts to spin up and rev ... back off, slow down. If it gets too hot ... bad expensive things can happen. Limp it to a good bike mech.

[Warin]

Originally Posted by IronArse

Got my Wee-Strom stuck deep in sand, was revving the f**k out of her to get her out, in first gear. Once I got back on to terra firma the power was gone out of her.

When you were doing this .. did you slip the clutch? If you did .. that is what burns out the clutch. Instead of slipping it .. fan it, rapid on to off to on to off ... a pulsing action. That reduces the strain on the clutch.
Sand riding .. requires speed rather than power .. second gear would be better with more speed.

If you must slip the clutch .. don't do it for long periods ... stop and let it cool. While it is cooling .. think about how to get along without slipping the clutch .. look for a firmer track?

[g6snl]

As mollydog says it is an easy job to fit new clutch and springs. You may need cover gasket too. Mine went on the way back from Turkey one year and got really bad going through Croatia so I had to stick the wife on plane home. Made it back to UK but it was tricky going. The friction plates were not too bad but the springs looked quite different compared to the new ones. Totally agree that genuine parts are best for something like this.




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[IronArse]

Cheers for the info folks, will know for future that's for sure.
Mollydog, can I ask you, just looking at a page for spare parts, could you take a quick look at the link and tell me what it is you think I need please?

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/...ch-461385.aspx

I know you're only making an educated guess without seeing my bike, but I'm just looking for reassurance that I don't need that 240 Euro part at the top of the list....
Very much obliged for the help guys, thank you!
Lesson has been learned.....

[IronArse]

Cheers Warin, that's a good tip, a skill I'll have to learn.
Hey g6snl, so did you ride the rest of the trip with a half burned out clutch?

[mollydog]

In the clutch you have two types of clutch plates, there are 6 of each.

In the parts list #4 are "Drive" plates, 6 of them. These are the ones you will need to replace.

#6 is a "Driven" plate. 6 of those too. This is a steel plate with no friction segments on it like the Drive plates have. The friction segments (like sandpaper) are the things that typically wear out, only on Drive plates (#4).

Unless you've really really cooked it ... the Driven (#6) steel plates will survive. BUT ... if they are warped, then they must be changed too.

Most of the other parts can be re-used but all should be inspected to ensure all is well.

When you install plates ... you go one drive, one driven, one drive, one driven and so on. Very simple. Just pay attention to how it all looks when you take it apart and duplicate on re-assembly. Basic. The first plate and maybe the last plate maybe slightly different to the rest in the clutch pack, so pay attention to put them all back in correct order. Not difficult to figure out.

Soak new friction (drive) plates in oil before install. (at least two hours before use)

[g6snl]

Originally Posted by IronArse

Cheers Warin, that's a good tip, a skill I'll have to learn.
Hey g6snl, so did you ride the rest of the trip with a half burned out clutch?

Yep I did, but I took it very steady and kept momentum going down the hills to get up the other side. I was prepared to do it if it completely failed somewhere but figured If I make the ferry at Calais I could get picked up UK side by mate with van. As it happened made it home, even stopping off at Suzuki dealer to order parts en route. All adds to the fun of Adventure travel....

[Warin]

Originally Posted by mollydog

When you install plates ... you go one drive, one driven, one drive, one driven and so on. Very simple. Just pay attention to how it all looks when you take it apart and duplicate on re-assembly. Basic. The first plate and maybe the last plate maybe slightly different to the rest in the clutch pack, so pay attention to put them all back in correct order. Not difficult to figure out.

These days it is just so easy to take photos at each stage ... much better than memory and they record things you may have missed but need to see on reassembly. so - photo at least

• the clutch before disassembly,
• after the springs come out
• after the top plate comes off
• after the first plate comes off
• just before the last plate comes off
• after the last plate comes off

I'd probably photo as each thing or set of things come off... just to be certain.

Reassembly should be the reverse of the disassembly. Any torque settings should be observed particularly those on top of the springs.

[Threewheelbonnie]

With some clutches you can put washers behind the overheated springs to get the last 1% of life. Think it was an XT600 I once saw it on, but could be wrong. Only for the really out of the way places as by the time you've found drip trays to catch the oil etc. You can probably do a proper job.

Andy

[backofbeyond]

Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie

With some clutches you can put washers behind the overheated springs to get the last 1% of life.

Andy

Oh yes, I used to do that on my Lambretta scooter. Not because the clutch was slipping or anything but because it made the lever pull harder - and if the clutch lever needed some serious effort to pull in it was because it had been upgraded to cope with the awesome power of the tuned engine.

Later on, when I "detuned" the engine I was amazed at how rapidly the repetitive strain problems in my left hand resolved!

[Warin]

Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie

Only for the really out of the way places as by the time you've found drip trays to catch the oil etc.

In out of the way places the bike goes on its' side - no oil drainage required.