Synthetic Oil who's using it, does it make a differance?
 

Does synthetic make a differance? I Have a 2004 R1200GS and was wondering about changing my transmission to synthetic oil. Does it shift better with synthetic with-out making the clunk noise when hot???

Thanks for any info.

[This message has been edited by jv3 (edited 18 August 2005).]

I forget if its the engine or gear box, but there something particular about the 1200 were you can only use syn or mineral, ask your dealer. Nice action on that tranny no matter what.

I've been using synthetic oil for the last 52000 miles. The engine doesnt burn ANY any oil & goes great, I like it.

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Your 1200 should shift smooth enough without using synthetic oil. It would be any of the older bikes that would need smoothing out of gearbox problems by using synthetic oils.
Even saying so, synthetic oil is very hard to find in smaller centres and it is not recomended to mix synthetic and mineral oil if you need to top up.
For long youneys it is better to stick to something that can be found everywhere.

Hi jv3!

I used to put mineral oil in the bikes I had. But I tried synthetic oil on my KLR and I saw a difference.

The clutch plate on my bike like to stick together after a night sleeping. So in the morning, I have to put the bike in first gear, hold the clutch lever and then move the bike to unlock the plates. With mineral oil, I have to put a lot more effort to unlock the plates. With synthetic oil, the plate unlock very easily. So I guess the is less friction everywhere with synthetic oil.


Patrick

I had the 12K service performed on my 99RT and I asked about synthetic for the engine. The service tech said he recommended mineral in the engine and synthetic in the trans and final drive.

There's a synthetics vs mineral post I started a while back here: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...ic-oil-42780-1

I have yet to test a hypoid oil that comes even close to that of Omega 690 80W/90 GL7.
If your gearbox is a bit sticky and not smooth enough - that's the oil to test.
Distributörer av Omega olja och fett såsom smörjolja och smörjfett - Smörjteknik Norden AB
Magna Industrial Co. Limited

I have tested most oils on the market since 1987. Mineral and synthetic. No scientific study though, just testing in my vehicles - and none have even come close to that of Omega 690.

In the BMW Sweden group there is a fancy for 75W/140 fully synthetic... I tested that crap and had to change after the first run... way too thick and shifting felt like moving a spoon in syrup.

The second best hypoid in my opionion is Quaker State 75W/90 mineral.

You can ad STP oil enhancer - those who have tested that claim just about the same as I say about Omega. I have yet to test STP.

Warning:
- do not use Slick 50. It works - as long as the silicone(?) film sticks to the surfaces... when it brakes the wear is augmented badly... a couple gearboxes broke for me and I lost compression on an engine as well...


Synthetic oils do have a niche - low temps.
When one rides at below 5F (-25'C) one do kind of need synthetic oils... at -5F (-35'C) and down the mineral oils will freez... are you riding at these temps?

Synthetic oils work very well at high temperatures too .:devil:

But some mornings it can be as low as -10c during the riding season and it's very nice to have a bike that can be kickstarted easily .:freezing:

Synthetic Oil
 

I changed out my gearbox and final drive with Mobil 70-90 synthetic gear oil and it really smoothed things out (in the gearbox).
Before changes were ok, but when really hot tended to get a bit clunky.
Super smooth now, and the difference immediately noticeable.
I change the GB and diff every 20,000k. Not required that soon, but it's cheap insurance.
Just my 2c worth.