R80g/s buildup
 

Hey everyone,
I'm currently in the process of building up my 81 R80G/S. It is currently stock and I wish to build it in such a way that down not modify the OE components, so that should I ever wish to return it so I will be able to with an afternoon and some grape or barley therapy. I would really appreciate your input, and suggestions.

I've been reading the threads lately about guys who have done different modifications to thier bikes. About this time last year I was spamming the internet trying to find a G/S. I had found two, one fell through but I think my enthusiasm made the owner love it. The other I got and became good friends with the PO. I ended up getting it in NM, blowing the charging system and rear main seal and had to fix it on the go with no clue how to do it.

Well, I'm looking to get a new bike again...this time not in NM, CA or Germany, but in my 16x20 shed that's in the woods. That's right, my own G/S. I want to mod it and make it suitable for overland travel.


Max BMW, New Hampshire

Woody's Wheel Works, Denver CO

Powder Plus, Bangor ME

Motorrad Elektrik, Good guy and has helped me out a jam before


Ebay, Advrider classifieds, IBMWR classifieds, HUBB classifieds
-Fairing@ADV-$75
-BMW accessory outlet kit@eBay-$35
Corbin Seat-single@ IBMWR classifieds-$175
R100GS forks/tree/axle/spacers@ IBMWR classifieds-$400
R100GS fender@IBMWR classifieds-$60
ME Omega 450w@Ebay-$400
R100GS subframe @IBMWR -$250

The restoration begins :evil;

Currently seeking list:
-Fork seals
-R1150RTP switch holder with early K heated grip switch
-Hot Grips
-A set of good (small) aux lights
-Ignition Euro spec light switch and left hand switch housing
-front section of the headlight pod
-Touratech Rear carriers
-upgraded brake caliper....R1100gs twin pot conversion
-SS brake lines to match with caliper*
-R100gspd or R100GS skid plate
-R100GSPD air dam
-R100GS front wheel


The Plan:
-remove front cover, starter box, air-box and battery box (1 hour)---Take to have coated-$75
-Remove front fender, side covers and keep with tank for later painting.
-Remove front and rear wheel
-remove handlebars, and other items including pod for cleanup.--Send for coating
-replace worn switchgears with euro spec
-Replace ignition with eurospec
-Upgrade charging with enduralast or Omega
-General degreasing and cleanup throughout
-Replace all connectors to Amp Superseal
-Run three dedicated #4 grounding wires, all from the battery (-) to rear of diodeboard, frame ground and tranny' lower left mounting bolt
-Install inline deadmans switch on battery to kill any parasitic drain on extended shutdown and for security
-Fix stripped FD drain plug
-Fix leaking brake lever on FD
More to come


Before Photos
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TQ...0/_IGP5628.JPG

Left side
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0033.JPG

Right side
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0041.JPG

Oil stained FD...brake lever and Drain
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0034.JPG

Oil wet from RMS or oil pump. Not sure what to make of it. Both are new, and it gets like that every 1-2 k miles? Thoughts?
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0035.JPG

Rims are only dirty, even the spokes are rust free. Will only polish them to a shine, not send off for upgrade as I do not see the point.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0036.JPG
Front even has the sticker intact
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0037.JPG

Find a better, more professional way of mounting the shock reservoir, pull the god awful R100gs racks and the redneck rear hoop
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0039.JPG

Pull and powdercoat, install bash plate
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0040.JPG

Hot Grips and new switchgear to clean up the fading, may change out guards to black
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0042.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0043.JPG

Latest update 12/30/10
I managed to score some R100 forks, fender and brake

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/DSC02034.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/DSC02041.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/DSC02501.JPG

Now I need to find a wheel and figure out how to turn the forks black...

Looking forward to the build thread Shadow Raven...

12/31/10 update:

Spent the day pulling stuff off of the r80g/s subframe, pulling the exhaust, and removing the shock for reconditioning by Works Performance.

Per the Recommendation of Greg Hutchinson I am having the Res line extended to 24" and terminated at a 90 degree for mounting under the R100gs subframe

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0065.JPG

1/1/11 Update

Scored a Omega 450 kit on Ebay...$400!!!:clap:

Spent this afternoon:

Pulling the carbs:
They need some serious cleaning, degreasing and polishing.
Can I just remove the diaphragm and bowl then drop them in carb cleaner? Will that kill the o-rings?

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0088.JPG

Removed the emissions lines (very easily), what plugs do I need to close those holes?

Pulled the airbox, opened the starter cover, and alt cover to gain access.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0084.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0086.JPG

Planning on pulling the swingarm and trans to replace the clutch as it grabs when hot :becca. I may send it to Anton to get updated.

I want to send the timing cover for powdercoating but I'm uncomfortable with the timing situation. Can I just pull the beancan and replace it in a close position when replacing? If I replace the timing chain/sprockets is it fairly straightforward with markings etc etc?
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0085.JPG

Went and removed the shifter lever and realized that it had been broken off at one point and rewelded :eek1....will be replacing with a new one.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0083.JPG

One last question;
Has anyone used this stuff?
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0090.JPG

Wish there were more comments. I like to hear others thoughts....?c?

Shadowraven, you have taken the front casing off, I hope the battery was disconnected and stays disconnected when you refit the case, if you short out that diode board ( and it is easy to do, doh believe me......)

then your alternator will not charge.:oops2:

just sayin..............



oh and you may want to check the condition of the connections on the fuse-box. now is a GOOD time to upgrade to resettable breakers, expensive, yes, but much easier than buggering about with fuses.

Tried to comment - >½ of my replies were not encluded...

Your overhaul is well thought through.
There are more that you could do to the frame and stands.

Have a look on these photos of my overhauls/tunings:
Engine heater:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/messages/5/103.html?torsdagden18november19992306

Alternator:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/bilgen.html

www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/mont_bilgen.html

Carburetor gooey solution:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/carb.html
Click on the link "Nästa Sida" (next page), or copy and past the adress.

From your photos, you need a new front break rotor. Bin that caliper and get a four pot unit and make up a mount from 10mm alloy plate.

Get your starter checke for the glue holding the magnets in... or buy a Bosch or Nippon Denso unit.

Whats the "metal wax" for... polishing? If its the carbs you want to clean, ultrasound is the way to do it.

Beers,
John

Thanks for the comments, It's always useful to get input from guys who travel and know the mods that work.

I picked up a r100gs fork set for it and I am trying to find a r100gs wheel which will come with a new rotor. I will be dropping a caliper from a R1100GS oilhead on the R100 forks.

The metal wax is to just remove the surface corrosion that is evident throughout and protect it from further cosmetic issues....I want a pretty bike too...at least to start :mchappy:

So I continue:
1/2/11 update

This morning was spent writing articles to pay for the afternoons fun

I bought a cool parts cleaner called chem-dip (cancer in a can?) To help with the degreasing. Seems to work well. I took the adjustable shift linkage that was all greasy, shaft rusted and frozen and between the dip, a stainless steel brillo pad thing and that metal wax I was able to bring it back to new.

I started to work on the carbs but the cap screws were all screwed up. I was able to pull one, but the other was going to strip. I deep creeped it and hit the second carb preemptively. I'll let it soak for an day and try again tomorrow

I also disassembled the clutch assembly and soaked/cleaned that stuff. This got me thinking. Due to the upgrades i've already bought there is no way in hell I am going to be able to afford to do a pro level restoration. I would like to at least paint the nicks and such, but really don't want to do an ass job of it. I am planning to powdercoating the big bits but the small intricate stuff I imagine will be too labor intensive?

How do you guys suggest painting the clutch and throttle assemblies, and anything else that needs touched up?

From here I pulled the throttle assembly and the old nasty brake line that was falling apart in my hands . Did someone say stainless replacement?
I gave the handbar a quick cleaning and will be removing it tomorrow to transfer to the powdercoat box

Dog was cold again so trekked back to the Yurt. Thank god the buddy heater 2 is coming this week. I hate to say it though; the shed is better set up than my garage EVER was.

Martyn,
Thank you for the advice. Yeah the battery was number 3 thing removed following the seat and tool box. You mention the resettable breakers. Please elaborate. I'm quite interested in the modification.
Adam

Nice, we don't see many build-threads here.

You are sure it's from the engine and not from the gearbox?
Beside the seals itself there are a few possibilities:

Oil-pump cover:
It should be perfectly straight. Put it on something completely flat (glass) to check.

RMS:
RealOEM.com � BMW 47E3 R 80 GS CRANKSHAFT/CONNECTING ROD/MOUNTING PARTS
Is #5 in good condition? Have you replaced the o-ring (#6)?

Engine case:
It's extremely rare but they do crack. Check it carefully.

I usually mark the position, it's good enough to get the engine started. When the engine is running I use a timing-gun.

Yes, it's marks on the sprockets so it's pretty easy. It's rarely necessary to replace the sprockets, most people change the chain, guide and tensioner.
If you decide to change the sprockets you might find the upper one hard to remove, the lower is easier but you need to remove the camshaft.....

I see your point but I wouldn't have done it this way. It's a hassle to install the cables and you introduce several weak points. A vehicle should have only one main-ground connected to the battery.
I can write more about this but by introducing several ground-conditions you increase the chance of fires, periodical problems, burned components and problems with charging and you get a system which is hard to repair.

Basically you want your ground-cable to be short and fat, personally I have it fixed to the lower left mounting bolt but the original position is better because it reduces cable-length.

There are a few things that can be done to improve the original setup but (beside the rotor) BMW did a great job designing this.


Again I see your point but it's difficult to do this without introducing voltage-drops to the system. Voltage drops leads to hard starting and charging-problems.

Alibaba,
I see the thinking..basically its a matter of KISS (Keep it simple stupid). Don't add anything that unnecessary and keep it all low tech and BMW originally designed.

To address the points you brought up,

The oil leakage:
I did have to replace the RMS, flywheel ring and oil pump cover this past spring, I may have screwed something up, I know I did not torque the oil cover bolts as I did not have a consensus on the values. I will check once I get the trans off. The leakage you see there is about 1000mi worth in hot temps, not a major leak, but a leak just the same.

Timing chain:
I guess I'll do what the consensus does and just do the chain, guide and tensioner. No sense messing with what works.

Electrics:
I guess I'll make sure to limit the runs of wire. I have heard to make sure the timing cover has good contact with the case too.

Disconnect:
I plan on using marine grade stuff for this. It may introduce future issues, but the added security is well worth it to me

1/3/11 update

Today I spent further pulling stuff from the bike. I am going away for a couple weeks in Feb so want to have it ready for the powder coaters so it'll be ready for reassembly when I return.

Holding off on the handlebars till the end. I'm actually balancing the bike part removal process front to back and vice versa. Should I pull too much off of each end the bike would tilt off of the lift.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0102.JPG

Trying to decide if I want to aluminum coat the covers, I took mine and hit it with the metal wax today. Worst I can say is that the oxidation that came off got imbedded into the metal and slightly darkened it. Doen not look too bad though. I may save myself 30-40 bucks and just leave it as is.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0101.JPG

Pulled the bean can and the charging system except for the rotor....waiting on the tool. Very dirty in there, and there was a combination of rocks, spiders and other nasty things
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0100.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0099.JPG

Take a look at the rotor in the last photo...looks melted doesn't it???
Some closer photos. Anyone have any ideas, nothing else is melted. I'm guessing it's where the wires come down from the slip rings.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0095.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0107.JPG

The dirty beancan, marked throughly to aid in replacement.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0110.JPG

The next project is to rip into this. What are my upgrade options here...especially if I go to a R1100 caliper
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0111.JPG

The box of replacements and extras is getting bigger
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0113.JPG

Aaarghhhh! Clean it:nono::nono::nono:

Doing one better, taking it off and letting a powder coater do their magic :yes::boat:

Will the powder coater remove all the dust that falls into your engine when you remove the cover?

Hmmm, good point....never thought of that. :unsure:

My pleasure.... here ya go! ATC Circuit Breakers

Thank you, they look pretty physically big, are they?

they are longer ( or taller whichever way ya wanna look at it....) but it is easy enough to extend the lid of a fuse box, as long as u have the room... I would make every effort possible to use the them, saves a LOT of hassle.

M

Have you thought about replacing the alternator with a permanent magnet type?
You would get rid of diode board problems as well as any potential problems caused by breakdown of the rotor windings and carbon brushes .

Maby this sort of thing is better Pico 5575pt Master BATT Isolator Switch

or this: Battery isolator - removable key in the �on� or �off� position

Cheers,
John

1/4/11 update

Today I pulled the pod, handbars and front fender.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0125.JPG

Took the center stand off too and made it fun to further support the bike on the lift.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0128.JPG

I have wires all over the place, it will be fun on reassembly.... fortunately I can read a schematic like a comic book.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0126.JPG

I have a pile of stuff to order, but will do so later as I want one box to come

1/5/11 Update

Finally pulled apart the throttle and master cylinder. It's a 13mm and a MESS
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0111.JPG

Cleaned up the shed some more. I found that in a small space, orginization is key
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0135.JPG


One big thing, my heater came. Mr Heater Big Buddy. There is one thing working in the cold shed in the middel of winter. Something else freezing your butt off.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0123.JPG

Seems to work pretty well. Here are a could shots of it being onfor about a half hour.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0129.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0136.JPG

The heater came in a pretty big box, so had the opportunity to have a place for my powder coating candidates
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0127.JPG

One question: It was on the exhaust to prevent the cover from potentially being damaged. I could not find it on the schematic, how it mounts etc etc. It was held on with a pipe clamp Anyone have any ideas?
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0133.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0134.JPG

I ended up with a 450w Omega. I got a deal, $100 less than the perm magnet system

Did some research on that charge system.

Found out a couple points that I like on the Omega vs the Endura

Cons of Endura:

1. The Endra possibly won't work with bad battery...or no battery? So no charging a flat battery. Makes sense with a kickstart.
2. Replacement parts and hard to diagnose issues.
3. Heard to be Noisy
4. No replacement parts available, need to spend another $500USD to replace

Cons of Omega:

1. more parts to fail
2. Replacement parts only available from Rick, not from dealer
3. charges best at speed

Pros of Endura:
1. Few Parts to fail
2. Charges all the time close to max
3. Frees up room in charge section.
4. Less connections to fail.

Pros of Omega:
1. More ultimate power
2. Will run a batteryless bike.
3. Easy to diagnose by maintaining the airhead simplicity
4. Individual parts are available from Rick the seller...yes a pro too as he sells good stuff and stands by it.

Conclusion:
Both systems are equal in benefit, it all depends on what you want. I need heated grips, gps, liner and gloves at speed. I also like the ability to start and run a bike that the battery died and I had to kickstart to get running. This kit delivers for my needs.

I may need to do some work in that dept. The fusebox location on the g/s seems like an afterthought. I'll have to look into it.

Glad you are happy with your purchase .
I may have misunderstood the workings of the Enduralast alternator .
I had believed it to be a permanent magnet alternator .If this is the case then it will charge a flat battery and also charge up a capacitor to use in a batteryless system .
Kick starting shouldn't be a problem ,if you have the necessary muscles .
Provided that the alternator does not fly apart ,there is nothing to go wrong with a permanent magnet system ,other than the reg/ rect failing .

The enduralast was my first choice, but this one came first so I bought it. My evaluation was based on what I've read in reports. I have read of omegas failing too.
If I break down, I go fishing, take a well needed break, etc etc. I never travel with an agenda or timeline. Too dangerous and kills the fun. You see things at 35mph that you don't see at 60 mph and things at 60 you don't see at 80. Life is too short to rush :D

John, the reason I suggested to Shadowraven about the resettable breakers instead of fuses is that you can ALWAYS reset a breaker, it the fuse goes, if no breaker then you have to have spares or a way of completing the circuit, although your suggestion of battery isolator is a brilliant one as it stops the bike being started when you are away from the bike....


M

Don't a bloody R80rt then, the bloody things are in the headlamp shell!!, and a pain in the ass to get to...:funmeterno:, I ended up relocating my fuses into the tank box ( it was an ex police R80 and had the radio box built into the top of the gas tank)

I'll drink to that !

Good point!
Poor/bad battery with permenent magnet alternator => no charging... experienced that once on a Kawasaki.

Availability of spares is most important.

If it is legal where you are to register and use your bike consider yet an option, car alternator.
Depending on pulley size you can get full power from idle and up. I have choosen to have full power from around 1800rpm, and charging from around 1000rpm.

Pros:
- choose an alterator that is most common in your area.
- low costs
- much more power than any bike-alterator (I have a 70A, 980W, installed now and plan to install a 90A, 1260W, on my summer bike)
- spares "all over"
- more stabil/balanced idle, similar to the older heavy flywheel
- engine runs a little bit cooler, and there is a fan blowing on the engine-side all the time
- installed on the righthand side of the bike => original alternator can be re-installed


Cons:
- takes about 20h to install
- belt needs tightning every now and then
- addes weight... 10 pounds or so
- installed on the lefthand side of the bike => original alternator mounts have been removed, no reistallment of original alternator possible with this camchain-cover; to re-install the original alternator one will have to get a new cam-chain cover.


Alternator installation, in Swedish - just look at the photos, they "tell the story" and give you all the installation procedures:
http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/bilgen.html
http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/mont_bilgen.html

1/6/11 update

Didn't do much today except get a really nice fitting that allows me to refill the 1lb green propane cylinders with a 20lb tank. It should save me a few pennies considering those 1 pound tanks are $4.99 each. I can fill about 20-30 with a 13.99 refill. :clap

It's called a Mr. Heater F276172 1-Pound Disposable Propane Tank Refill Adapter.

Got a clutch as well because mine is the original and grabs when hot.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...800/clutch.png

I took a couple photos of my transmission break that was caused by low torque of the drive shaft bolts when two came out and got jammed. I was considering having it welded but I heard about a product called pyroweld. That will probably solve the issue on the cheap and proper.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...1000000012.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...1000000014.JPG

A fellow rider is graciously forwarding me an outline for the PD skid-plate. I have an official US Govt surplus sign (not stolen :innocent: ) made of heavy aluminum and I'm just going to make my own skid and center stand plate rather than screw with eBay.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...1000000016.JPG

It's this thick
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...1000000015.JPG

In Maine USA...everything is legal...including marrying your first cousin :rolleyes2::eek3:

Seriously though. I had briefly concidered doing that alt option for a few minutes but it's too heavy, expensive, exposed to the elements, and again..WAY TOO HEAVY. :mchappy:

Take a look at a friend of mines mod..800watts:eek3:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...regs%20alt.png

Weight -is- an issue.

Your friends installation of the 800W alternator is -awesome- !!!
:thumbup1:

Emailed back the questions you wanted.

BTW; the Alt is of Australian origin, and Greg Hutchinson of California installs them occasionally in his R80g/s buildups. Good guy who knows his stuff :thumbup1:

1/7/11 update

I spent most of today pulling the major bits off the bike. This was something I've been avoiding as my balancing act lift depends on equal weight front and back.

The monolever came out very easily, and found my brake rod beginning to crack at the mount. No biggy, needed to be replaced anyways. In any case, that system is a whole other chapter dealt with at a later point.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0158.JPG

To deal with the balance issue I tied a rope to my roof rafter to keep it supported while I pulled the forks, and a box under the front wheel after I pulled the monolever.
This was not a fun part
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0139.JPG

After I pulled my forks I got thinking:
-Can I use the races with the bearings on the r100GS forks if they are serviceable? I don't see why not, and this will prevent the headache of pulling them.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0141.JPG
- Do you think it's possible to use the 32mm light brackets with the 40mm fork tubes if I just dremmel out the difference? at $22 bucks a piece it seems like a good idea.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0154.JPG

From here I pulled the trans. It's so easy with with monolever removed!!!
It came right out and the entire trans facing was covered with oil. AND the splines were nice and red....WITH RUST
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0143.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0144.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0147.JPG

The stuff last used will be tossed, I'm going to get some Honda Moly60 for reassembly.

The bike saw about 8000 miles over this season and I don't see why it was this dry. Lesson learned

Took some better photos of the trans flange damage too. I will probably fix that with some putty/jbweld and call it good. I'll also replace the trans seal, just in case that's whats leaking. I'm also going to be pulling the flywheel and double checking the RMS and oil cover. I did not torque the bolts right on reassembly with the oil cover. This may be an issue as well.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0149.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0145.JPG

Speaking of the RMS. I actually have the tools to do it right this time
Too bad I still need a damn rotor puller.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0151.JPG

So I have an engine and frame left.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0156.JPG

1/8/11 update:
Didn't do much but read other posts and clean the trans up.
I used heavy duty degreaser called GoofOff that nearly took out an eyeball in NM when used last. However this time safety glasses were worn.

Following the the degreasing, Q-tips and picks were used. Then a brass brush and a stainless steel scrub pad. Finally followed bay a sweep of Goofoff and a scrubbing of the metal cleaner/protectant. The results speak for themselves

Metal before:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0164.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0143.JPG

Metal After:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0165.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0161.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0162.JPG

I do need to further work on this though, as well as the corners of the prior edge photo
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0163.JPG

1/9/11

Went down to the shed this afternoon and continued working on the filthy transmission. I was using goofoff but in such a small space with the heater chances of fume issues and possible fire are fairly high so decided to find a good citrus cleaner and degreaser. I think I got some all natural concentrated stuff and some purple magic citrus degreaser. Both actually work BETTER than goof off and smell great.

So managed to get the trans pretty well clean. I'm going to hit the edges with a dremmil buffer tomorrow.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0179.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0180.JPG

I also got around to fixing that flange.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0174.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0173.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0175.JPG

I used new JB weld
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0176.JPG

Not the stuff that exploded in the tool kit
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0171.JPG

I do need to dremmel it into shape tomorrow after it cures.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0181.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0182.JPG

1/10/11

Today was a fun one. I got to go and string up my bike to the rafters to get the engine out of the frame. It kind of felt odd though seeing it done that way. Just hanging there. That is one heavy engine.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0190.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0191.JPG

Finished up cleaning up the transmission. The JB is not set yet due to the temps. Put it is the consistency of play-dough which allow me to mold it in quite nicely. Purchased a couple dremmil bits to clean it up proper when it's cured. I also confirmed the trans input seal is leaking....
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0188.JPG

Ended up getting a flush of package notices in the mail today. Turing them in resulted in a nice yellow set of forks, beautiful fender, spectacular corbin seat and a brake caliper.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0183.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0186.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0185.JPG

When I pulled the engine out and started cleaning, the first thing I did was pull the clutch. Have you ever seen a clutch disk so glossy? Apparently I read these OE clutches were subject to premature failure too?
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0206.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0207.JPG

I found this wear interesting though...ideas?
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0211.JPG

The next thing done was to pull the starter......hmmmm a Bosch. I was hoping for a Valero. I noticed the teeth were a bit chewed too.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0203.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0205.JPG

There is one saving grace however....the RMS is in good shape and not leaking so it must be the oil pump cover. Here is a shot of below the RMS
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0210.JPG

So next I dove into the engine and started cleaning away 30 years of gunk. I found the mysterious number, and after cleaning, touched it up. I may add my own mark as well for the next guy to do this.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0201.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0212.JPG

So rehung the frame to work with it easier and currently letting it soak with orange cleaner
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0221.JPG

The engine will be fun...
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0196.JPG

The streeringhead races have to be pulled.
It is not that tricky.

Special tools, made in USA. Non expensive and of high quallity.
Ask Snowbum:
[url=http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/techindex.htm]Robert Fleischer, BMW Motorcycle Maintenance &

I did write a comprehensive reply...
Where the... is my text?!
This is getting annoying!

Weld a piece of metal across the races, one at a time. Knock/tapp it out.
The heat from the two spotwelds will expand and then shrink the race.

Should you want a puller anyway:
Forks, Shocks, Swingarm & Frame : CycleWorks.net LLC, The original source for tools and parts for your antique, vintage, and classic BMW motorcycle or Isetta car

Use Omega 77 grease:
http://www.magnagroup.com/products/o...ure/odis77.pdf
Magna Industrial Co. Limited
My supplier:
www.smorjteknik.se

Don't be disappointed its not a Valeo! Be happy:clap:.
The magnets don't fall off the Bosch units.
They just turn a little slower.

Cheers,
John

Seems as if I am just about the only one who prefers the Valeo over the Bosch starter-motor...

There is one major -fault- with the Valoe. It is a factory fault. They have -forgotten- to fill the "gearbox/planetary" with grease!
Omega 85 "shear sensation" is my primary option, and Omega 77 is my secondary option.

So if you begin with open the Valoe, and proceed with filling the gearing with top of the line grease - it will last. I have used mine for over 160 000km, short stops/rides.
All I have needed to do is to renew the brushes twice.


Current needed to activate startermotors:
Bosch 320A
Valeo 15A
A rough estimate at -10'C is that a 28Ah fully charged battery will allow for 4 attempts of less than one second to start using the Bosch startermotor... at -20'C it is about 2 attempts...

However, there are frequent report of broken Valoes, the magnes brake loose... this is a problem that does not happen with the Bosch startermotor.

Since weight is an issue in this overhaul/renovation, one should also look at the difference in pounds between theses startermotors.
The Valeo is far lighter than the Bosch, about 1/2-1/3 if I remember correctly.

Fitted to my bike and been very reliable - the converted nippondenso starter motor weighs in at almost half of the bosch, draws 80 amps instead of bosch 120 amp has glued in magnets on high torque planetry gears and was originally built for toyota trucksand has proven reliability as well as being suitable for higher compresion engines, spare availability should be descent being japanese truck internals - the starter motor is available from various sources in the uk.

Hi DC,

The Bosch is 120 amp I think... the Valeo must draw more than 15 amp.
I bought a Nippondenso Toyota starter for mine... fit and forget.
The ND starter draws 80amp and weighs about 3kg.

Cheers,
John

Hi John,

Nop.

The Bosch startermotor is 320A.
Valeo is 15A.
All you need to do is to read the lable that is stuck to the startermotor.

If you still do not belive the data - just measure the reistance.

This data is also readilly available in the BMW (factory/original) Workshop Manual.

15A is 180W, there is no way you can turn an engine with 180W. 180W equals 0.25HP... It would have been possible to run the starter from your 15 Ah battery for one hour!

The Valeo is 700W (close to 60A) but that's when it's spinning, at startup it's far more. A heavy start can easily be 5 times the rating.

1/11/11...hee hee. It's all ones!!!

Spent today cleaning the engine with scotch brite pads and cleaner. WOW does that works well

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0239.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0194.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0237.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0197.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0225.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0235.JPG

Even shined the dip stick
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0238.JPG


Onto the questions. Tell me about the Right (looking forward) plug
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0240.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0248.JPG

And the Left plug
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0233.JPG


This is the brake Pedal.....seems awfully rough for BMW standards....is it aftermarket welded?
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0224.JPG

Quote:

Originally Posted by AliBaba (Post 319079) 15A is 180W, there is no way you can turn an engine with 180W. 180W equals 0.25HP... It would have been possible to run the starter from your 15 Ah battery for one hour!

I refer to official data.

Found this on the net - might be of some interest:
http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r-elec.html
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category_s/29.htm
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=3
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/startingprobs.htm
http://www.mekafrance.se/valeo-m-13.html
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/boschvaleostarter.htm
Start & Generator Specialisten: Startmotor / Startmotorer / Startmotorer;BLSHOP-1294675140837=13dq3ge1u0pgq

What I can see is a confusion here between torque (in kW) and electricity demand/consumption/current in A. The Bosch starter excerts 0.5kW in torque, and the Valeo excerts 1.2kW in torque. Bosch uses brute electric force (320A) to achive this, whilst Valeo uses revolutions (15A) to achive it.

It does not matter who is right and wrong here, what matters is that Shadowraven can make an informed and well based choice between these two options, Bosch and Valeo.

There are positive and negative sides of both startermotors. Lets focus on the important differences - what affects reliability on the road.



My experience is that Valeo is as good as Bosch - I know my experience differs with many on this point. The missing grease in the planetary gears may be a (or the) reason why so many Valeos fails; but how does this missing of grease cause the magnets to get unstuck and jam the startermotor??? Is heat the cause?

It is kind of peculiar, since I have used Valeo since 1992 (150-200 000 miles, salt, sleat, summer-winter) - and never had a magnet get unstuck, whilst a friend of mine got about 1000 miles and the his Valeo broke down (he -never- uses Valeos after that incident - he insists on always installing the bosch startermotors ever since) !...
All I ever have had to "repair" is to replace the brushes twice. Why do my Valoes not brake down when others does?... Could the missing lubrication of the planetary gearing be the cause/reason?...


At -25'C and below... the Bosch starter motor will not turn. The Valeo does and quite easily starts the engine. The lowest temp that I have personal experience of, with mineral oil (15W/40), is about -28'C.
So, as for me, the Bosch-startermotor is not an option, but that is merely due to the climate in which I drive.

That makes the Nippondenso unit the winner then:clap::clap:

Cheers,
John

According to your links the Valeo is 1.2Kw. If you can get 1.2kw by supplying 180w (12V * 15A) then you have a Perpetuum mobile.
The Valeo is called D6RA-15 but 15 has nothing to do with amperage.


I'm not sure if I'm confused...
Unlike other motors starter motors are often marked with "power@amp"-figures. Basically this means how much power the starter delivers at a given amperage.

If we compare:
Valeo: 1.2kw@275A
Bosch: 0.7kw@320A

This number indicates that the Valeo draws less current and produces more power then the Valeo. This is good! But it also tells us that 15A is not what we are talking about...
The numbers above doesn't show us exactly how this work because the real numbers are load-dependant. A Bosch-starter will be consume somewhere around 120A under normal conditions.

He has a Bosch and can probably use it. It might be worth to clean and lube it.


When it comes to reliability I would recommend the Bosch because I've killed two Valeos (in one week). Valeo with a house modified to keep the magnets in place will also be a good option but I don't see any reason to change it unless he want to start the engine in subzero °c or rise compression.


I would guess heat and age. Glue doesn't last forever.



My first one lasted 180kkm, the next one 30kkm, they both had the same age. When you use glue to attach something it can work for a long time, or not...

But as Redboots says Nippondenso is the best :thumbup1:

I don't want to dilute this excellent build thread (thanks shadowraven!) even further but the Valeo on my '89 R100GS lasted for 20 years and 185,000 km before I decided to prep the bike for RTW. I replaced the Valeo with the Nippondenso from Rick at Motorrad Elektrik.

Last Fall I picked up my Dad's '84 R100RT. It has always been a tough bike to start because the starter motor doesn't turn the bike over very quickly (and for all I know may be taking a bunch of the electrons away from the spark plugs). I picked up the Valeo that has been sitting on a shelf for the last three years and plugged it into the bike, replacing the heavy Bosch. Bike starts like a charm now.

Just one data point...

Hey Ekke,
Heck don't worry about dilution It's all good discussion. I like to read the pros and cons of each. Next year I will probably get the nippo one but for now I'm going to refresh the Bosch. It turns fine and the bike fires right up. I also have a kicker and can get her going that way too :thumbup1:

Now to a point; Points actually. Has anyone gone from the IE to points? Seems like a good thing to do? Spares can be had anywhere as VW points fit. I am leaning this way, any comments?

There is another thread here on H.U. that addressed hallsensor vs braker-points.

I did get the impression that it is a safe option, and that it is VW 1200 (buggy) points that will fit?

My Suzuki GS 850GN ran far smoother with electronic ignition, but had far more power using braker-points. (Guess that is more to do with my mechanical skills at the time though... :D)

The electronic ignition is quite reliable, but when the hallsensor fails one is stuck... and a replacement ITU is rather costly...
"Trigger assembly and blackbox"
Moto-bins - BMW Spare Parts and Accessories for Motorcycles - Bmw Parts Series 2 valve Twin
Part.no. is neat:
Part No.07912X
I've written a thread on ITU/hallsensor break-down and how to mend/repair the ITU.


And thank you Alibaba for correcting things that I've been taught incorrectly concerning the startermotors. Your comments are most interesting :)

I wouldn't switched to points.
The standard systems works pretty good and it's maintenance-free. Beside a cracked coil my system lasted flawless for more then 220kkm before it got replaced by a q-tech system which is pretty similar.
If you go on an extended trip you can carry the most vital part:
http://www.q-tech.de/images/zuendgeber.jpg

But if you talk to people that have experienced burned parts they might say points are the right solution.

I switched from points to IE on a Land Rover once and the difference was amazing. Easier start, better mileage etc.

1/12/11

Only did some cleaning today, got the frame good and cleaned up. The starter de-dusted as well as the harness contacts cleaned and greased.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0258.JPG

Pulled the ICM too. Not a hint of transfer paste left
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0252.JPG


The real news however is the 20+ inches of snow that fell......at the shop
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMGP0077.JPG
and at home
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMGP0073.JPG

1/13/11

I dug into my final drive today. and separated the driveshaft from the FD. I was a bit worried about damage and such because I've stil been digging bits of the 2 FD bolts I lost out of the magnetic drain plug. Speaking of which it's a mixed blessing. First off, the plug was fixed by Performance Motorcycle in Albany NY a few years ago, a quick search finds no results. This is not surprising concidering the hack plug repair job they did.....:huh

Not metric
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0260.JPG

Hole in rough shape
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0261.JPG

No threads at all inside
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0262.JPG

It went so far as to actually hit the primary bolt housing, and result in a strip if attempted to torque.

At least I have a nice clean and shiny FD to drop off to my machinist and have timecerted
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0263.JPG

And the shaft to the Powdercoater
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0264.JPG

I love old bikes......:censored:

1/14/11

I have a driveshaft removal tool coming from a friend. Dropped off the FD to a tech who used to be a BMW tech back in the 80s. $40 for a time sert, and going over is better than $100 for a kit and then having to destroy it to do a shallow repair

I'll let the photos speak about the big find today.......:stormy::cursing:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0272.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0273.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0292.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0291.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0290.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0288.JPG
So I need a harness.....Suggestions :helpsmilie:

Motorworks - BMW Motorcycle Spares - home and Moto-bins - BMW Spare Parts and Accessories for Motorcycles - Index do them for about £135 this side of the puddle...

John

$202 over here. Any idea what could have caused an overheat like that??

THAT wireloome was amazing to look at!

What you show are several causes:
- heat
- detergent
- UV-radiation (gazing/blazing sunlight)
- age
- shortages
- cold/low temperatures (water/humidity + oscillating around 32'F; water-ice)

Should not have happened so soon... on a 30-40 year old bike, I kind of would expect that, but on a 20 years old... Any history?

It is an 81 so about 30 years old and apparently in checking around this is kind of thing is common on early G/Ses. It's because the wire makes a sharp bend between the triple and fender, eventually it wears down and gets damaged.

1/15/11 update

-Put the harness in the "to be replaced box"

-Managed to get a old craftsman Beam torque wrench for a couple bucks at the local "Massive-building-with-every-type-of-tool-imaginable-just-need-to-find-it-hidden-under-other-tools" It'll be good to use to verify my snap-on torque wrench values.

-Got all the parts that I need to work on this week laid out. Hoping to run it up to the powered coater late in the week.

-I ordered a slide hammer type seal puller for the trans. Seems more practical as the other style would add pressure to the casing and something I wish to avoid.
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/50...55-W2029DB.jpg

-Still waiting on Fedex to deliver my subframe.....they are the worst delivery company.....They have lost more stuff of mine than I'd like to mention.

-Other than that I played on this :devil2:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0293.JPG

...slidehammers are neat :)

But,... there is noting on the beemer that requires one, or is possible to use one for...

You will need a couple of special pullers for the gearbox and final drive /bevel. These can be made fairly easilly.


Snowmobil - could be fun :)
I drove to Falun this thursday (on my R80/7-RT), ca 200km north of me. About -5'C going up north doing about 100km/h. Weather forcast predicted down to -8'C. Drove back home via Sandviken, and dropped in on www.midland.se to say hello. All in all about 500km trip. Leaving Sandviken it was late at night and temprature was x2 the prediction... -15'C... Schubert C1 can not cope with -15'C... the visor ice-up at once... my BMW II with heated visor was not operational... and I was dressed for down to -10'C... (BIG misstake!), forcing me to drive at the horrendous speed of no faster than 80km/h all the way home from Sandviken (about 180km) due to the chillfactor effect on the visibility and insulation defecit due to the under-dressing ... Oh,... and no front-brakes either... couldn't get the ... brembos to funtion so I changed them and lost all front-wheel braking instead... (LOL).

Actually, there is an alternative. An agressive screw inserted into a carefully drilled pilot hole can be removed with a slide hammer. That is how I removed my rear main seal. Not difficult and prevents putting any leverage on the case

Here is a gentleman from Colorado doing the seal I need to do with this method.
http://vervaeke.smugmug.com/Motorcyc..._PqabS-L-1.jpg

Nice....Last winter I rode a KLR650 equipped with a sidecar all winter. Was fun, but the salt on the roads and the strain it put on the bike was not worth it to continue. One winter was enough for me. I'll stick with major bike mtnce and snowmobiling when the snow flies :clap: Maine has an international trail system and I can travel all the way to Labrador if the desire hit.

Yep. Road-salt is a vehicle killer!

...if you need to replace the front-seal on the gearbox it is highly likely that you may need to replace a bearing or two as well, i.e a major gearbox overhaul...

It happens (extremly rare) that that seal fails, and if that would be the case - that's the way to change it :)

When overhauling the gearbox (about 100 000km intervalls), one do change all seals and bearings. Pitted sprockets should also be replaced.

I know, odd that it failed. The only explanation I have is that the bike mostly sat in high altitude dry area from 1994 until 2010 when I bought it so many of the seals dried out.

I've discussed the running characteristics with a gentleman named Anton Largadier in VA who is very good at rebuilding these transmissions and he does not feel there is anything seriously wrong with it.

It only has about 50k so it's due, but I think I can get one more season out of it.

In any case I will no matter what have it redone before I leave, the last thing I need is a failure on the road.... I understand there were some advancements in the 85 model year so I would have those added as well as the low 1st and high 5th.

Thank you for the email, once she is back together I'll have a look...or listen:thumbup1:

I've changed the seal twice.
First time at 90kkm before a big trip, second time at 220kkm. First time it was completely dry, second time there was a bit oil but not much.

I pried mine out with a screwdriver.

1/16/11 update:

JB weld FINALLY set up after about a week due to the intense cold and dryness in the air up here. I took the dremmil and cleaned out the extra JB, ground down the high spots, sanded it smooth and polished it up. Not perfect, but better than a nasty gaping hole on the flange.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TS...0/IMG_0174.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0315.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0316.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0318.JPG

Continued with the dremmiling and cleaned up the welds on the shifter and brake levers so they looked more uniform and not like a wad of chewed up gum. I also removed the VERY worn brass bushing from the shifter.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0323.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0326.JPG

I wasn't going to do much with them, but until I get my TT pannier racks I might as well make my OE racks decent as they are R100GS rack....and I happen to be putting a r100gs subframe on. :evil This was not as easy as I had hoped however....Back in NM I had wrapped electrical tape around the tube to make the bags a bit more secure. Unfortunately that tabe became quite brittle and was a PITA to remove. I eventually resorted to a blow torch, goof off and a razor blade.

From here I pulled the kick stand off and found the plate I had welded beginning to break off. I finished the job, and ground off all my old welds with the intention of extending it and putting the large foot back on it.

1/17/11 update

Just took a ride down to get my FD that had to be fixed.....

He unfortunately used a helecoil on the drain plug opposite #11. Oh well. At least he red locktited it in and did it right. More that I can say about now defunct Performance Motorcycle in Albany NY
The reason I say that is because when he pulled it apart he found the big ring that 21-24 go through in this diagram was only hand snugged...not torqued and that number 24 was toasted, brittle and in about 4 pieces. I would not have noticed this stuff had I not dropped it off as I lack the disassembly tools. So although he just helicoiled not threadcerted at least a much bigger issue was averted.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0breakdown.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0309.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0311.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0312.JPG


He also gave me the O-rings to fix my leaking brake shaft
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0313.JPG

I decided that while I had the tran on the bench for photos I should pull the plug to see what it looked like after 6000mi
It was covered in fuzz, and the biggest piece of metal was this. Probably not good, but will have it rebuilt next fall winter anyways
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0320.JPG

The day was not without tragedy......I got a box for my timing and flywheel refresh campaign and max left the most important part out...the M&Ms. This is almost enough to make me order from BobsBMW
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0314.JPG

1/18/11 Update:

More photos added tomorrow

I finally got my subframe after chasing the Fedex goober dow the road. He was too scared to drive up a plowed snow covered road...Massive box too. I now have a box to put the frame in for the powdercoaters.

I also managed to get my carb rebuild kits, the final stuff needed for the timing campaign and my torque wrenches.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0331.JPG

I figured that as I had much of the stuff I needed I had might as well go ahead and do the one thing I hate to do as it can REALLY FK UP YOUR ENGINE IF YOU DO IT WRONG. Pull the flywheel and ID where the leak is coming from.

I blocked the crank with the short end of an allen key pressed up against the
secured cover, and secured the flywheel with a 7/16th wrench on the flywheel bolts. In reality you never actually have to push on the crank to do squat with these bikes, but the blocking is nice insurance.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0336.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/S6...0/P3110024.jpg


I did find the source of the leak.....the rear main seal. Apparently in my failure to install it right the first time in NM and subsequent reinstall in the correct orientation I managed to remove a couple of the ribs and cause a mild leak......:thumbdown:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0342.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0344.JPG

Although it has been leaking since NM, it has not stopped as hoped. An order was placed today for a new one.

The guide ring does worry me though...there is a wear spot on it, not sure if I want to replace it or now. I may scotchbrite it and see if it clears up.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0346.JPG

Aside from the leak, the Oil cover bolts were tight, not torqued, but still tight. I also cleaned up the inside for something to do. I have found that if I place a cleaner soaked rag on a screw driver it works better at cleaning out crevices.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0347.JPG

1-19-11 update

Got my new EBC HD clutch in the mail today. Looks to be less gripping surface than the old one. :dunno. I guess if it does not work I'll just toss the old one back in next year as its at 50 indicating half worn. Probably could go to 120k as the PO used it more off road that I plan on doing.

Got notification from the brown santa that the rear main seal was to be delivered today. Figured that I had might as well rig up a way to get that seal out. My attempts at pulling it out with pliers didn't work even if it was only 8 months old. So had to revert back to the old fashioned drill a hole and slide hammer trick. Too bad I didn't have a slide hammer and had to use a yankee surveyors stake pre-drill hammer thing. Basically a slide hammer with a 3 foot steel rod. Remove the rod, and attach a screw. My drill also didn't work as if was dull. :huh Thank goodness for Dremmel.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0356.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0355.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0357.JPG

From here I decided I should clean up and reinstall the oil cover. A smearing of high temp silicone gasket goo on the cover edges, and some blue locktite gel on the newly cleaned and degreased threads. Including a new o-ring shall insure that the cover stay nice and leak free :clap NO COMMENTS ON THE Kawasaki brand loctite..the KLR vibrates like a cheap midwestern hotel's bed. Kaw knows something about keeping threads in place!!!
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0358.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0360.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0361.JPG

Still find this wear on my FW odd.....
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0364.JPG

Now prepared to install the RMS
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0366.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0367.JPG

Once the package came I was THRILLED...MAXBMW DELIVERED!!!!!!

They gave me 2 packages of M&Ms with an apology for forgetting them last time!!!! YEAH!!!!!!! MAXBMW IS AWESOME!! :thumbup1:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0368.JPG

....Yeah I know a bit obsessive I just love the M&Ms they send. It's like crack I tell ya!!


After having lunch and getting my M&M supply as well as a thermos of piping hot coffee I headed back to the shed. I was dreading the RMS install as I hate that crank shift issue. Yeah it was blocked... securely, but dang i'm still nervous. Well managed to install the rms with the help of a proper install tool....damn that's easier than last time
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0369.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0370.JPG

I then inserted the slipring by bolt pressure. Didn't see the point of a new o-ring there as it's only 8 moths old and still pliable.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0372.JPG

Then came the Flywheel and the 5 NEW bolts.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0375.JPG

I figured I should check the accuracy of the torque with an old craftsman Beam. At 80ftlbs on the Snap-on clicker, it registered 77 on the beam. I pushed the clicker up to 84 and figured it should give a good 80-82 footlbs on factory wet fasteners. Not quite dry, not quite oiled. Perfect compromise.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0377.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0379.JPG

Not having an extra hand and the dogs refusing to help I enlisted the help of a basketball.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0380.JPG

Done and time for a break
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0382.JPG

Next up was the new clutch, I figured I had might as well clean that too
three rags later and a little big of brake cleaner it was ready for action.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0384.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0383.JPG

The marks are not EXACTLY 120 degrees apart....there was no way to do it. So I separated them the best I could...the back plate is about at the 4120 mark.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0386.JPG

Tightened all bolts to 21NM...with a DROP of locktite for good measure.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0388.JPG

Once all that was done I figured that the oil filter should be changed while it was accessible. I don't feel like frigging with the damn thing while the frame and exhaust are in the way.... 5 minutes--done.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0390.JPG

I noticed that I had the flat surface, a nice shim and the white ring was in great condition.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0394.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0392.JPG

I then tore apart the starter. DAMN that thing is rugged. I opened it up, cleaned out all the carbon, dirt, and grease. Polished the communicator, and lacking any other type of high temp grease, put a couple drops of brake caliper grease on the copper bushings. Seems to work well. I can actually move it by hand, something I was unable to do before
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0396.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0397.JPG

The end for today...dogs enjoyed themselves
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0371.JPG

Have you been pushing your mechanics too much? :taz:
Or... are they your supervisors, and been driven to ... by their mechanic?doh

They seems exhausted! :sleeping: :Beach:


You did install a new oil-pump?

1/20/11 update

Got seal puller in the mail today so I can get that seal out of the trans.....if it doesn't work I'll use the same method as the RMS. Although some folks believe this to be a poor method of removal, those same folks are cynical of seeing too many botch jobs. If care is taken, this technique works as good as any method. The key is to be careful :deal Unfortunately the seal puller is umm, massive should be the word....so will use the tried and true method of the screw.

-The driveshaft shaft tool came from JRP. Nice tool that makes an otherwise impossible task very easy. Took a couple minutes and she was apart. I fashioned up some caps for the ends as it tried to run away in shipping. I also took some measurements should I want to make one myself.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0399.JPG

I pulled the carbs apart today as well. Boy there are a ton of pieces, and the rings are in tough shape. A lot of crap hiding inside and also evidence that the butterfly rings have NEVER been done as the screws are still peened.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0423.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0426.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0432.JPG


In other news, WA rider was generous enough to send me his old R100GS sidestand to help with the increased height of the bike and saved me the trouble and expense of getting my R80g/s one lengthened and coated. Thank you so much :thumbup1:

Will probably transfer the carbs to the Yurt after dipping and thorough rinsing, I need to rebuild them and the cold temps in the shed will probably wreak havoc on the rubber seals if done down there. My wife wil be thrilled as i rebuild them at the kitchen table. :D

Got done with the cancer-dip..err berrymans chemdip. Great stuff, 20min in the can all the grime was falling off of the carbs. A tooth brush helped, though the bristles started falling out 3/4 of the way down. I also went through 2 sets of gloves as they kept dissolving. :eek1

Now I have the carbs in about 100 pieces.....time to rebuild and figure out how to put back together. :huh

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0429.JPG

:laugh:

Yeah, damn exhausted. They wouldn't even give me a hand torquing the flywheel bolts :cursing: Considering a pay cut for them....

The fuel pump was well within spec, but did replace the o-ring, cleaned. degreased, loctited the cover threads, and used a smearing of gasket material as well per clymers instructions.

You should invest in a small ultrasound cleaner... it'll do a much better job and it will clean all the galleries where your toothbrush cant reach... and your cancer-dip wont:eek3:
See this: carburation

Cheers,
John

1/21/11 update

I'd love a sonic cleaner but for the little I'd use it not really worth it. Would do a better job though:clap::(

14" of snow today, so decided to drag the bag'o'carbs to the yurt and assemble them there at the kitchen table next to the wood stove. :D

Not as bad as I expected regarding reassembly. I just laid the parts out in categories and worked from there. I dremmeled the peened end of the screws down and salvaged the shafts. The rubber was absolute toast and fell apart taking them off. The diaphragms are salvageable for spares. I still need new jets/needle and needle valve, but that's a 1/2 hour at most. I also noticed that one choke housing was all carboned up...not sure why, but's it's clean now.

Easy job, took about 5 hours total, just needed to be methodical.

On the AFTER photos, I mixed up the throttle spring holder between carbs.....it's been fixed


Before:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0418.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0419.JPG

After:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0453.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0454.JPG

Progress:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0448.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0447.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0450.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0452.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0456.JPG

Done
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0457.JPG

Now how to figure out how to tune these damn things...:taz:

1/22/11 update

Not feeling well today so didn't do much. I went over the carbs once more and found that I had installed my enricher doohicky backwards (highly technical term). Fixed that, set the mixture screw out 1 turn, and called it good.

Currently trying to deal with a guy who is super slow and sending my my omega system, r100gs front wheel and rear rack....hopefully someday

If you have not already got it buy the Bing Carburetors manual (about £10.00 in the UK) but as its a U.S. printed manual should be easy and cheaper to get hold of. Gives excellent information and the best guide to manually setting up the carbs you can get.

I second your experience with the Bing Manual :)
Worth every penny/nickle!
Bing Manual

If you get feed-up with the gooey-situation clogging the atomizer, this is how I got rid of that problem:
Carburetors:
http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/carb.html

http://www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/carb2.html

Look at the pictures - they tell the full story.

1/23/11 update

Weather calling for -20F tonight. :palm: I turn the heater on and if I get it too warm think about 45F ice starts forming on all the metal and tools. :freezing:l

Well, can't think about the cold. As long as my hands don't lose feeling I'm good to go :Beach:

Finally pulled that controversial trans input seal, 10 minutes it was out with the slide hammer/screw method. I didn't have a 1" socket so gently and evenly tapped it in with a hard rubber hammer.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0460.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0461.JPG

Pulled the valve covers to get them powder coated black to hide all the scratches and scuffs. I just like that look. Debating on replacing one seal. I left some of it on the sealing surface. Not really sure if I should.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0466.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0465.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0464.JPG

Also took some advice and painted the timing marks white. All I had was white gelcoat repair...but it's better than nothing
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0463.JPG

Most most absolutely AGGRAVATING thing was my exhaust header getting stuck on the collector. I spent about 30 minutes hammering, heating, cooling, PB blasting until I just cut it back far enough to get it loose. ARRG!!!

Now it's dented and rough, but at least out. This may explain the difficulty I had with the oil cover this past summer.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0467.JPG

Other than this, just some more degreasing of parts
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0468.JPG

1/24/11 update

Went to do a couple things in the shed today.
-5F out and -2Fin.....

I had bought 4 allen screws for the carb tops, but the ones I got didn't fit, damn.

I did happen to burn my hands holding the carbs...not not by heat, but cold :eek3:

As much as I would like to tinker down there today. I think I will read Obsessions Die Hard by the woodstove today and drink coffee.

I did happen to sell my massive parabellum that was just like the Grants. I hated to do it, especially after I painted it and made it look so pretty. Now I can fortunately afford the harness!!! I also fortunately got my money back for the not-so-points point can and used it to buy another can from a friend of mine. So, new harness and points can acomin!!

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0479.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0484.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TT...0/IMG_0475.JPG

1/25/11 update

-I got the fairing packed up to go today, it'll be on the way to the bayou in the next day or so.

-I ordered my harness and emission hole plugs from Max, I haven't heard from them yet, so I imagine it'll be coming from the fatherland.

-Got a present from the brown santa today it was the r100gs side stand. It should help with the lean for sure. I will probably have a big foot welded on the end to reduce the lean further and give me more footing. I was going to PC the footpegs and side stand, but decided to polish them instead, it'll be a good contrast,

-Heard from the guy who has my Omega charge system, R100gs wheel/rotor and rear rack/locking plate. Says he will ship today after a month of lollygagging....lets see if it happens. Hopefully I will not have to take a ride to southern Ontario.... :rolleyes2:

-Got a bunch of stuff together for the powder coater, as I'm leaving for a couple weeks it should give him a good chance to get it done at his leisure. Hopefully also for a good price. :clap:

Still very cold here, just touching the metal parts gives me a cold burn. Winter is never fun working on bikes. Then again, at least there are no mozzies or black flies :thumbup1:

1/26/11 update

Loaded the frame and the rest of the black bits into the jeep and headed in town to deliver them to my powder coater. About $300 for all the black on the bike...not too shabby.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0487.JPG

Stopped my the Honda dealer for some Moly 60, then NAPA and asked for the stickiest, nastiest, grease they had and they gave me Lucas Red and Tacky #2....wonder what R&T #1 or #3 is like?

Now I need to figure out what percentages to mix these two greases. I may do a fling test with a power drill to test it at some point.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0500.JPG

Then off to Sears to replace a couple lost or broken bits I've been meaning to replace.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0502.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0501.JPG

I love Bangor Maine, The Air National Guard runs these things in the airspace. I've looked down at them while under ATC control in a C152, and today upwards and got to experience the wake turbulence :evil
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0488.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0489.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0491.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0492.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0493.JPG

1/27/11 update.

Day 4 no comments; must be low on the :funmeterno:?c? and suggestions are welcome, even if I buggard something up. Better know now than wait until it's back together and it breaks

Well today I went down to the shed, and installed the starter. The manuals were calling for 35ft lbs...i kept tightening and could not reach it....I backed off and dropped some loctite and left it at 25ft lbs. Don't really feel like snapping a bolt. Not sure the issue there?
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0507.JPG

I also dropped some moly lube on all moving surfaces of the starter, just because I had it.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0506.JPG

Sorted my old parts and newer parts to figure out what was going on the bike. The clutch cable was toast, so getting replaced without a doubt.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0503.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0504.JPG

Installed the brake cam o-rings
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0513.JPG

Installed that really tight annoying spacer in the back of the engine.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0508.JPG

Degreased, scrubbed, sanded, polished and waxed the metal engine mounts rods, foot-pegs, side stand, and hangers.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0510.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0512.JPG

Cleaned out the monolever bearings, caked with old grungy sandy grease. They had Japanese bearings in there, so they've been serviced before.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0515.JPG

Started cleaning out the rear wheel too. Full of brake dust. Cleaned most of that out. Measured the wear lip. Just about 1/2 mm wear average around. I don't have a caliper to properly measure though. Given the Max allowed is 2mm I have about 50% service life left on the hub, or 75k miles.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0516.JPG

I also found out that my parts were FINALLY shipped from Ottawa and are currently in transit!!!

No one commented when I did it, but I reused the $2000 O-ring. Decided not to after doing some reading so ordered one from Max.

Congratulations! I have been following your progress every day in repairing the motorcycle. greetings from Poland! :mchappy:

Good to hear from you Tool!! Half the reason for this thread is to keep myself motivated, and also give some others some technical insight into the inner working of these bikes. I appreciate your feedback. THANK YOU!!

1/28/11 update.

I was dreading today. There is nothing worse than cleaning up and shining rims. If I wanted to shine rims, I would have a Harley :biggrin3:

Well, some have asked why all the cleaning and shining. The answer is simple, to clean it to start at step one and to be able to easily see ANY issues that might be hidden. Remember the harness? I was cleaning the dust off and was going to rewrap the wires when I found the mess. Now the bike will have a new harness.

In any case. I went the the shed today and shined up the G/S rear wheel and hit it with the protective wax. One thing I find odd is the fact it has a Weinmann rear and Akront front? Not sure if it came from Germany like that? Kind of odd.

Aside from that, I just cleaned the dust and dirt off of the r100gs subframe.

Before
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0516.JPG

After
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0522.JPG

To make the task bearable beer
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...0/IMG_0518.JPG

Keep up the great reporting!

The R80 rims are sure a lot easier to clean than the tubeless R100 rims. :)

This looks :funmeteryes:. Going to find myself my own r80 to rebuild :thumbup1::thumbup1:.
Keep up the good work!

Sounds good, I have one of those coming for the front. so it should be fun :clap:

Over in Europe you should have no problem at all getting one. Here in the US, we only had them imported from 81-87 at about 3000 bikes or so. You guys had over 20k bikes mfg between 80-96?

I'm sure my stats are off, but I know you guys have more.

They are a great bike though. Much of what I'm doing is combining the best of the R80GS and the G/S to make a perfect overland bike. :scooter:

1/29/11 and 1/30/11

I just pulled apark the Germa Petcock and cleaned it up. I'm not too happy about the single tiny filter within. Seems it can get clogged pretty good with one bad batch of gas. I may pull the filter and just run with inline filters. I would rather allow the crap to flow out of the tank and into the filters than build up in the petcock/tank and nail me further down the line.

Thoughts?

I'm also looking at adding a push button to the light switch blank on the left hand light control. I think it would be a good way to control aux lights or some other accessory.

You need those poor filter to stop larger rust-flakes entering down into the petcock. These rust-flakes will clogg the petcock.

You will need hoose filters as well, since rust-particles will pass through that poor "net" and the petcock. Those particles will clogg the holes and jets in the carbs.

Problem is that on the Germa petcock there are no in tank filters, just two open tubes.

Dump the Gemas and get the later ones - much better, with decent filters and reserve. I also use large plastic auto filters after each tap to be sure. Last ages, and really keep the fuel clean.

Good to know; I've used the plastic autofilters before but have found that they get brittle and break on the ends if you have to remove the tank. Was thinking about installing one of these as they are more rugged and cleanable;
http://images.motorcycle-superstore....uel-Filter.jpg

1/31/11 update:

Final update for a couple weeks probably as I will be in Spain. Mind the photos, taken by my Iphone 3g and it's great camera :lol3

Got a box from MaxBMW in NH today. Thanks to all the restorations on these G/Ses the fatherland must have realized there are probably a few fools who still want to restore these old bikes. I got my new harness in just over a weeks time from Germany. Much better than the 4-6 weeks I have heard about.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...1000000019.JPG

I also got some free shampoo, insect remover and some detailing spray due to a maxbmw promotion.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...1000000020.JPG

In addition to all that, I got my emission hole plugs (r1150gs oil pan plugs), the $2000 oil cover O-ring and shim, and a new valve cover gasket as one got buggard trying to remove it from the cover for the powder coater.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...1000000018.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TU...1000000017.JPG

I also got my M&Ms :D

1/31/11 continuation:

Could not wait until I got back. I installed the 2K O-ring. The old one was a bit compressed as evident of the fit on the new one. Glad I changed it.

Put in the emissions plugs with some red locktite and no crush washers. I may keep a spare should one fall out.

Stuck the valve cover gasket on the engine with some black high temp silicone. Figure I would rather have it stuck on the engine than the cover.